Printable View
Scottwax- That`s some interesting info, thanks for schooling me on Honda performance in the 21st Century!
`
When it comes ot servicing, I wash thinking more about....what if you have to track down some intermittent problem.` But that might not be an issue if the swap is that straightforward.
`
Dellinger- Yes indeed, one can open a can of worms with "simply bot-ons" in the absence of a proper dynotune (voice of pricey experience).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dellinger
`
I did do the ECU reset procedure before driving my car after the j-pipe. And since the 3rd cat isn`t monitored, no chance of a CEL. The ECU has no way of knowing its missing. And 420/430 codes seem to be more of a super tight operating parameter built into the ECU than anything else. If the ECU detects more than a few percent change from the standard, you get the 420/430 codes. Huge problem with Maximas. Had to keep a code reader in my glove box for both Maximas I`ve had. But in 72,000 miles of driving now, I`ve yet to have a CEL in my Accord. I might go up to Cobb tunning one of these days and get my car tuned. Probably wait until I do more though.`
`
As far as an engine swap goes, that`s only if I need an engine and decide to keep the car. If I was going to do a swap for performance, I`d do a J36 swap. The 3.2 makes sense as a direct replacement though, price is the same so why not get a slightly larger engine with a bit more compression?`
`
The RL cams are the ones that seem to work the best (without spending $$$ on aftermarket) and don`t affect emissions. They make power everywhere in the J30 and I believe they are also lighter than the TL-S cams. Biggest drawback is price, I`ve done cam/heads in my Chevelle but not sure about my abilities nearly 30 years later with 2 cams in a much more cramped engine bay. Supposed to be 5-6 hours book time. I`ve got a good mechanic for the things I can`t do and he isn`t as expensive as a dealer on labor but 5-6 hours and the price of the cams will end up being in the $1000 or so range. And if I do cams, might as well do the 3.7 manifold swap (port and polish the lower runners of the stock intake) and the ZDX throttle body. But then again, there are people on v6performance putting down pretty decent power with the stock cams. On has Intake/PCDs/Jpipe/Exhaust/3.7 intake & TB/Runners/Pulley/FlashPro tune and it putting down 274 hp and 238 lb-ft and running mid 13s at 104 at the strip.
`
On the intake side, all I have done so far is removed the resonator box so the filter box is now pulling air directly from inside the fender. Might extend that tube deeper into the fender (right now it extends in about an inch) and seal the hole off better so all the air comes from outside the engine bay. Still might get the AEM v2, but not in any big hurry.`
The 13 range @ 104 through the traps... man, how much does that car weigh?
`
Sounds like you have a good game plan for the Accord. `I hear you on messing with anything OBDII, lol. `My ears `perked up` when you mentioned your Chevelle. `What year?
`
I`ve got a `67 Malibu and a `55 Chevy 210 post. `The Chevelle is just a cruiser really... 283/ 2 speed power glide with a peg-leg 3.08 gear. `It`s a dog but I love it... my dad and I painted it about 15 years ago when I was in high school. `I`m about to go back on it and clean up the paint since the last time I worked it was after wet sanding. `(That was with the old Makita that only went down to 1,500 rpm and Meguiar`s #4, lol) ` `I`ll be posting a C-n-B on it after I`m done.
`
The `55 on the other hand is my `rowing gears` car. `Nothing crazy but a 327 with a solid cam, some vortec heads I worked over, a M21 muncie, and 4.10`s. `It might have 350hp... but the 4-speed and gear make it fun!
`
Glad to know you are a gear head too!
-Gabe
Don`t think the Accord has any weight reduction done, so around 3350 is what they weigh.`
`
My Chevelle was a 1971. Got it when I started my senior year in high school, paid $400 for it. And it looked like a $400 car. Needed the front suspension gone through, and needed some body work and paint. 350 2 barrel, TH350 and 2.56 gears. Took a body shop class, but there was so much work needed all I was able to finish was the body work and primer it. And swapping out a front clip...takes forever to line the fenders up! Put dual exhaust on it as my first mod, so disappointed when it was running high 16s (best was 16.83) at 83 mph. Then I did a chrome waterneck (leaked first time) and gold anodized Moroso valve covers (also leaked first time) followed by a larger 350 cfm Holley 2 barrel carb (no leaks!). Then I got serious. My brother found some Blackjack headers on sale at Super Shops for $20. Why $20? California airpump emissions version with ugly brass fittings to plug the holes the airpump would connect to. But they were $20! Used a friend`s lift after hours at the gas station he worked it. Couldn`t afford an exhaust immediately so we uses Thrush header mufflers. So freaking loud...within a week my Dad loaned me the money to put a proper exhaust on it! Did a 4 barrel intake (Holley`s cheapest single plane) and carb (Holley 1850), everything went good until the distributor went back in, got it a tooth off I think. Ended up having to call a mobile mechanic to get it in right, I think it he charged me $25.Drove it like that for about a year, also finally got it painted. Met some friends out cruising on Central Ave. in Phoenix, all were gearheads. One of them helped me change cams. Went with a Comp Cams 268H, 218 duration @ .050, .454 lift. Install and break-in went smoothly. Went to the drag strip. And ran high 16s...but this time at 95-96 mph. Kept spinning that right rear all the way through first gear. B&M torque coverter, Ladder bars and 041 heads (3 angle valve job) got me into the high 14s at 96 mph. By then I had an Edelbrock Torker intake and Carter 625. Friend had a Holley 650 double pumper that was way too much for his mostly stock Firebird so we traded. First run with it, I did a 14.68 @ 100 mph. Still with 2.56 gears! Next run on a 14.65 dial, I went 14.63 @ 93 on the brakes which meant I was done for the day. I`ve I`d known I was going to break out, would have kept on it. Switched to 3.08 posi rear end, went low 14s @ 98 (now I had to shift into 3rd about 100 feet before the traps), might have gone quicker but my last two runs on a 14.30 dial were 14.32 and 14.33 and I was lifting. Ended up winning selectra eliminator that night!`
`
Then came the 4.11s, a different engine with my compression and a bigger cam, then an even bigger cam (Comp Cams 292M, 244 duration @ .050, .501 lift, 106 degree centerline), Holley Strip Dominator intake, Holley 700 double pumper and a modified Vega converter with a 4000 stall. Ran a best of 12.84 @ 108 with that combo in full street trim. Fun car, but getting 6-7 mpg city and 9-10 freeway was just killing me. When the last engine took a dump, I sold the car.`
`
Don`t hate on the driving lights, dealer did that. Someone hit the front of my car, all they knew is I had driving lights, but not that I`d mounted them behind the grill. Nice of them to drill right into a new bumper....
`
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...H/Chevelle.jpg
`
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...elleengine.jpg
Dig the photos Scott! `I feel like I`m reading an article from Super Chevy from the very early 80`s... you know, the tall Moroso valve covers that could be had in Gold or Blue or Red... the slotted mags... ah nostalgia.
`
I bet those long tube with the smog pump `inserts` would be worth money today. `(Looks like Mr. Gaskets exhaust gaskets?) `My `67 is a California car and had the smog pump and all that jazz. `Took it off but I`ve got the pump and stock headers with the inserts and all the hardware.
`
What`s on the passengers inner fender well? `Looks almost like some sort of gauge?
`
You know, that Holley Strip Dominator is really a great single plane manifold even to this day... not sure if Holley still offers it or not.
`
The 041`s are some of the best of the ``double hump` variety. `I know they don`t have the same markings but the chamber is very similar if not the same... I have three pairs lying around ` Did you keep `em with 1.94`s or did you 2.02s?
`
So, do you ever wish you had it back?
Saw a `71 Chevelle today, definitely wish I had it back...but not with 4 wheel drum brakes this time!
`
I actually took those pictures in the early 80s, let my brother do the burnout (he had a built 340 in a `71 Challenger with 4.56 gears) since I trusted him more with my car than my camera. Black and white because I was taking photography in college and that`s what I knew how to develop and print.`
`
Unfortunately, sticking with 1.94/1.50 valves in the 041 heads was the limiting factor (well, besides traction) since other than a 3 angle valve job they were stock. I was shifting around 6800 rpms when I should have been able to take it to 7400 rpms or so to take full advantage of the cam and intake. More headwork and some slicks and I probably would have been running bottom 12s in the mid 110`s.`
`
The Strip Dominator was a nice improvement over the Dominator II I previously had. The Dominator II was a dual plane intake similar to the factory LT-1 intake. Didn`t really lose anything on the bottom...although with 4.11s and a 4000 stall it would be hard to tell. But midrange and on, clear advantage to the Strip Dominator.`
`
That`s a vacuum gauge on the fender liner. Helpful tuning tool.`
`
Had a couple other fun cars, 1977 Cutlass Supreme Brougham I swapped a 455 into and a `74 Z/28. 4 speed car, 3.73s and the only option was the Z/28 option. Didn`t even have a tach!
Hey Scott, meant to ask you...
`
My Chevelle has a black vinyl top (original) and amazingly enough, it is in great shape. `Do you have a product(s) you recommend for cleaning and conditioning this ancient GM vinyl from the 60`s? `I was about to pick up some Megs 39 but didn`t.
`
The only thing I have on hand is some CG VRP.... and to put it lightly, not really a product I enjoy but if it will fit the bill, that`s fine... just interested in your take.
`
Thank you,
-Gabe
I`d go with something with a minimal sheen like Meguiars #40, Optimum Protectant Plus or 303 and use as needed. Biggest thing it keeping it clean.`
I wonder how some of today`s "work on most anything" sealants would do on a vinyl top, something like Ultima`s TTGP or Garry Dean`s BIS.` I sure wouldn`t use anything that can run in the rain (bad memories of using Armor All on one back in the day).
Blacked out my grill, figured all the trim was black so the factory grey wasn`t working on the grill.`
`
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...psnaerfjrt.jpg
`
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0jemhir5.jpg
`
And my son got rid of his rusted out Camry and picked up an `00 Honda Prelude. Pretty nice little car, seems sound mechanically. Repaint with excessive orange peel and questionable clear coat thickness, so just lightly knocked down the worst areas, polished it out and applied Opti-Coat 2.0.`
`
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...psntwsu9lj.jpg
Scottwax- Hey, that black grille does look a lot better.
`
Your son oughta get a lot of good use out of the Prelude.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Accumulator
`
He`s already changed the wheels on his Prelude, we found a crack in one of them. And since he liked my RSX wheels, guess what he got?`
`
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/...psmd3559sc.jpg
`
And I just swapped out my hollow, 25.4 mm front anti-roll bar for the solid 27 mm TL Type S front anti-roll bar, also replaced the original LCA bushings with Moogs. Really tightened up the front end.`
Scottwax- Good on you guys for discovering that crack!` Too many people never spot such stuff and then wonder why they`re dead.
`
Yeah, those "twisted 5-spokes" look nice on that, compliment the vehicle`s lines very well.` Easy to clean too, huh?
`
Does the Prelude have any built-in rust issues?` I`m thinking about how some Hondas have spongey/foam-stuff in places (by the fuel-filler door IIRC) that retains moisture and makes `em all rust out eventually.
`
With such a big front-bar upgrade, you gonna do the rear one?` I`m generally all about getting the biggest/stiffest *REAR* bar, especially on something that might be generally prone to understeer (as I assume your FWD car is).
`
How are the Moog bushings these days?` I ask because their Problem Solver`parts for Crown Vics have suddenly become, uhm....less than swell, prompting me to switch to the premium line from Raybestos.
My son is the one who first noticed the crack, once he pointed it out, I told him not to drive his car until we replaced the wheels. He was on craigslist in seconds, looking for wheels. No rust issues I could find, its an original Texas car so that definitely helps.`
`
I replaced the rear bar first, TL-S bar is 20 mm vs 13 mm. Might eventually go aftermarket for a larger one. Even with the bigger bar up front now, thanks to the larger rear bar, there is less understeer than there originally was.`
`
Moog bushings are definitely an upgrade over stock, at least compared to Honda OE parts.`
Scottwax- Glad to hear no rust issues!
`
Ah, OK..roger that on the rear bar.
`
Nice that the Moog stuff for Hondas is still high-quality. I can`t imagine why they dropped the ball on (at least certain) domestic applications.