Painting wheels - help needed!

**01svtL** · 03-19-2013, 06:51 PM

So apparently I need a little help here. I`m attempting to paint a set of Pro Comp 1069`s that I`ve purchased for a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited that I have on order. The wheels are brand new, and are "polished." I use " " because I don`t know how or what they are finished with, but they are definitely shiny!

Anyway, I got two done, but ran into a problem while putting on the final coat of clear on the second one. They both looked great up to this point, mind you. I surprised myself, actually. I was looking to leave the lips polished, and paint the centers a dark graphite gray. Here`s what I did:

hit entire wheel with an aggressive brake cleaner/degreaser

taped off my lips with painters tape

600 grit on all surfaces to be painted

Followed up with 2000 grit wet sand

Rustoleum self-etching primer - 3 light coats (then let sit for 12 hours)

Wet sand with 2000 grit again - then let sit for 4-5 hours

2 light coats of VHT polyurethane wheel paint, and a third/final slightly thicker coat, pulling the tape off the lip about 30 seconds later. (coats spread out by 10-15 minutes, let sit in the sun)

Very lightly wet-sanded with 2000 grit just to smooth the surface out some (metal flake in the paint was kinda rough)

2 light coats of VHT polyurethane clear, followed by a third/final slightly thicker coat

Done

Now, it had been more than 24 hours since the last coat of clear went on this one wheel. I took it out front to hit it with the hose to see how it held up. It didn`t. It peeled at the lip in a couple of places, and the clear that was on polished lip started peeling everywhere (I cleared the entire wheel in an attempt to make that protective coating solid over the entire wheel, and hoping to avoid having to polish the lip by hand once/month.

So, what should I have done differently? Anything else I should have used instead? Is it possible to paint a factory-polished wheel with typical auto-parts store-bought products in a way that it holds up to high pressure washing? I`m strongly considering stripping both wheels back down and pricing out powder coating, but I really like DIY things when it comes to making my rides unique. I like to be able to take pride in things like that and not have to pay someone else to do it for me. Any help is appreciated!

**Ron Ketcham** · 03-19-2013, 08:32 PM

First mistake, you went to a too fine of paper before applying the various paint films. The use of a 1000 is the most damaging thing you did. Not enough "scuff" for the paint to bite into.

220 is the first smooth out after removing the factory powder coat finish, then when you get down to the metal, IE, removed the powdercoat that is the factory finish, when it is gone, down to the actual metal, and smoothed out with the 220, apply an "acid etch` primer,(Dupli-Color the green one is good for an aerosol) and scuff it with 220, 320 is ok but not as good.

A 3M scuff pad is best to use at this point rather than sand paper. ( allows the all important "bite" to the primer.

Allow more time for the cure than on the can. ( IE, don`t get in a hurry, have a beer)

Then, should you observe some "bare metal, reapply the acid etch primer to the wheel, allowing cure time, light "scuff" and then the "paint", light coats, allow it to "flow out" and then perhaps one more coat. Do not try to "make a perfect finish when you do this, the paint will flow out" if you have prepared the surface correctly.

When a time, as directed on the instructions on the can, have passed, apply the clear in the same manner.

"DO NOT ATTEMPT TO APPLY EXCESSIVE" clear to the surface.

Two light coats will adhere better than one or two heavy coats. These products need time to cure and allowed to `bite" into the pervious applied coats or they will not bite and what you experienced will take place.

To put simple, too much is not always the best way.

No matter what you may think or hear, time and cure is the way to long lasting coatings.

What you have experienced is due to not taking time, not prepping in between applications and applying too much of the various paint film builds.

**01svtL** · 03-19-2013, 09:10 PM

So i need to sand in between primer coats, or just after the final primer coat? The reason i tried to lay the final coat on a little thicker is bc the paint was still a little rough to the touch, and not at all smooth like a factory-painted wheel. How do they achieve that?

Also, how would you go about handling the polished lip? Just avoid clearing it all together, since i cant sand it down any (would remove the shine), and deal with polishing it?

Originally Posted by Ron Ketcham

First mistake, you went to a too fine of paper before applying the various paint films. The use of a 1000 is the most damaging thing you did. Not enough "scuff" for the paint to bite into.

220 is the first smooth out after removing the factory powder coat finish, then when you get down to the metal, IE, removed the powdercoat that is the factory finish, when it is gone, down to the actual metal, and smoothed out with the 220, apply an "acid etch` primer,(Dupli-Color the green one is good for an aerosol) and scuff it with 220, 320 is ok but not as good.

A 3M scuff pad is best to use at this point rather than sand paper. ( allows the all important "bite" to the primer.

Allow more time for the cure than on the can. ( IE, don`t get in a hurry, have a beer)

Then, should you observe some "bare metal, reapply the acid etch primer to the wheel, allowing cure time, light "scuff" and then the "paint", light coats, allow it to "flow out" and then perhaps one more coat. Do not try to "make a perfect finish when you do this, the paint will flow out" if you have prepared the surface correctly.

When a time, as directed on the instructions on the can, have passed, apply the clear in the same manner.

"DO NOT ATTEMPT TO APPLY EXCESSIVE" clear to the surface.

Two light coats will adhere better than one or two heavy coats. These products need time to cure and allowed to `bite" into the pervious applied coats or they will not bite and what you experienced will take place.

To put simple, too much is not always the best way.

No matter what you may think or hear, time and cure is the way to long lasting coatings.

What you have experienced is due to not taking time, not prepping in between applications and applying too much of the various paint film builds.

**01svtL** · 03-19-2013, 09:12 PM

Is this ok? U-POL ACID#8 - ETCH PRIMER M.I.R. COMPLIANT:Amazon:Automotive

**Ron Ketcham** · 03-19-2013, 09:55 PM

Good old, prey on the newbies, TCP Global.

Any O`Rielly`s, Auto Zone, etc can get you a rattle bomb of the Dupli-Color acid etch primer for under $9, and no shipping.

Take some time and look about in those stores paint area. You may be surprised at what is there.

If when that large of a selection and having somewhat trained counter people were available, I could have saved thousands of dollars. And that was so long ago a dollar was almost worth a dollar.

If you really want to get into learning about painting, and such, autobody101.com is a good site to start.

Lot of pro`s there, but they do not always take kindly to questions that those who ask should have thought out before asking.

That`s just a head`s up for you.

**01svtL** · 03-20-2013, 12:28 AM

Yea I actually posted the same question over there. It just now got approved. It took almost 2 hours, but I got the wheel completely stripped tonight. Is Mineral Spirits and a rag the best thing to use? It was a lot of work. I guess this is the Dupli Color?: Dupli-Color DAP1690 General Purpose Self-Etching Primer - 12 oz. : Amazon.com : Automotive

My google search for acid etch primer didn`t turn up anything different.

Originally Posted by Ron Ketcham

Good old, prey on the newbies, TCP Global.

Any O`Rielly`s, Auto Zone, etc can get you a rattle bomb of the Dupli-Color acid etch primer for under $9, and no shipping.

Take some time and look about in those stores paint area. You may be surprised at what is there.

If when that large of a selection and having somewhat trained counter people were available, I could have saved thousands of dollars. And that was so long ago a dollar was almost worth a dollar.

If you really want to get into learning about painting, and such, autobody101.com is a good site to start.

Lot of pro`s there, but they do not always take kindly to questions that those who ask should have thought out before asking.

That`s just a head`s up for you.

**Ron Ketcham** · 03-20-2013, 10:46 AM

That will work.

**01svtL** · 03-20-2013, 10:54 AM

Ron, know anything about KBS Diamond Clear Coat? I think I`d have to paint it on with a brush, so not sure how well that would work on a wheel.

**Ron Ketcham** · 03-20-2013, 11:41 AM

Nope, I use Dupli Color clearcoat for wheels, either in a rattle can or if more than one set of wheels, go buy a pint and mix and spray.

Go to my photo album and you can see two wheels, one finished, one not done.

**01svtL** · 03-20-2013, 02:34 PM

Awesome, I`ll check it out! This pad says it`s for paint prep, but doesn`t give a coarseness rating; what do you think: 3M Scuff & Clean Pad 6" x 9" Maroon-Medium (Scour Pad) Use: Scour pad for burr-free surface prep for painting or coating. Product SKU: 5082 - Amazon.com

**Ron Ketcham** · 03-20-2013, 02:46 PM

Don`t you live close to an auto parts store?

Go to one, they have them, you can put them in your hands and feel them.

The maroon is the one to use, there is a more agressive one also, which will work for the first scuff just fine.

I have both the maroon and the gray, plus a couple of other manufacturers pads I picked up from an autobody supply site, but don`t use them much.

**Ron Ketcham** · 03-20-2013, 03:44 PM

Another suggestion.

Rather than Amazon, if you want information and product, autobodytoolmart.com

And, you can call on their toll free and get answers from people who know the products you may be seeking.

Prices are good, shipping is excellent, I order about once a month for various supplies that are not in the normal range that an auto parts store may carry. They can order them in, but when it all works out the autobodytoolmart is faster and such.

An example is that I use Hystic masking tape for most work rather than 3M, and it`s about half the price per sleeve.

**01svtL** · 03-20-2013, 03:59 PM

Excellent, thanks for the info! The reason I keep posting Amazon links is that I`m a Prime member, so I get free second day shipping on most items. Next-day is only a 3.99 upgrade. I`m kinda on a time-crunch here, now that I have to redo two wheels. I wanted to have them done by the end of next week, as that is when I suspect my Jeep will arrive at the dealer.

I ran to O`Reilly today at lunch and grabbed that DupliColor primer and a DupliColor wax/grease remover, along with a 320 grit sand sponge (they didn`t have 220 or 280). I went home afterwards and got the wheel all sanded down again and sprayed with the wax remover, as well as the lip taped off. I then used a small piece of 180 grit sand paper to lightly scrub along the tape edge where it will meet the primer, just to make sure it was able to "bite" all the way up to the tape. Hopefully this is enough prep!