Restoring my 1964 Nova from Metal Up, Good Idea?

[Zooker]

After a few months of research(mostly from this website, you guys are awesome!) i figured I`d lay out my plan for restoring my 1964 chevyII nova. I have a racing engine in it, and am looking for a candy red paint coat but was hoping to make the rest of it look stock. anyways, speak up if anything(except my lack of experience) screams stupidity.

My favorite thread was: http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-det...te-detail.html





Meguiar`s G110v2 Professional Dual Action Polisher $150

3m Stikit Green Corps Disk, 6 in, Grade 80D $8

Eastwood Self Etching Etch Primer Black - 1 Qt $20 each

Tool Force A-C1 50 PSI 2-in-1 HVLP Spray Gun $35

Bondo - Body Filler - Quart with 3/4 oz. Hardener (262) $7

AquaKlean by KBS Coatings :: Multi-Purpose Cleaner Degreaser $20



With the DA, I was going to 80D everything down to bare metal. Then Clean with KBS, slap some bondo in the rough spots, and spray on my etching primer. After doing 3 coats of normal primer, with hand sanding with 120->240 inbetween each, have it painted by someone who knows how(or potentially myself, but i`m on the fence. I have a large "shed" that could have some fans, and some venting cloth on the windows/opening. the biggest factor is that I dont want to spend more than 150$ on the paintgun, $200 if i could use it for the primer at the start)



then the next purchases:

Optimum Car Wash 32oz $12

P21S High Performance Wheel Cleaner Kit 500ML $15

Clay Magic Blue - Fine Grade (200 grams) $28

Meguiar`s M105 Ultra-Cut Compound 8oz $10

Meguiar`s M205 Ultra Finishing Polish 8oz $10

Autoglym SRP500US Super Resin Polish - 16.9 oz $15

15oz. Finish Kare 1000P Hi-Temp Paste Wax $16

Collinite® Insulator Wax (16 oz.) $15

Meguiar`s Super Soap (1 gal.) $14

Meguiar`s W7006 6.5-Inch Soft Buff Foam Polishing Pad $10

Meguiar`s W8006 6.5-Inch Soft Buff Foam Polishing Pad $10

Meguiar`s W9006 6.5-Inch Soft Buff Foam Polishing Pad $10

Meguiar`s X2020 Supreme Shine Microfiber - Pack of 3 $6.50

Meguiar`s Quick Detailer Interior $8



with the new paint use M105, and M205 on some of the pads with my DA. After 30(probly 60) days then Autoglym SRP500.



My interior consists of mostly vinyl, that is in pretty good shape besides being the ugly teal color(that matches the stock paint...) and just looking worn. Although this will be a whole other adventure... after i get the body looking good!



My big question from all of this is that (i have an air compressor), but is this essentially the path to a "decent" looking finished car from the metal up? (willing to spend hundreds of hours on handsanding after the first primer layer). And any tips? I`m looking for super shiny, but a daily driver that is stored in a garage and loved.

[6SuperSport7]

Looks like you have some rot there you are going to have to deal with. If you have never stripped and did metal work before I advise to get some who has to help you and walk you through it. You want to use the least amont of mudd possible. Put new metal in where its rotten or replace panels that are too bad for patches. You are going to need different primers for bare metal opposed to mudded areas and etc... You are going to have a ton of hrs in block sanding alone before you ever atempt to spray color. Its a long hard process and theres a reason why good paint jobs are thousands and tousands of bucks. If I was you I would break it down so it does not get to be to much. Example, getting the body stripped and metal fixed first. Then getting everything straight, blocked, and primed. You can then start worrying about color. Good luck and show us some more pics once the resto begins!!

[Zooker]

It`s taken me awhile, but i found a guy who does this stuff that is going to let me watch him work next week . I`ve done "some" fiberglass work and was told that cutting out the rust holes and applying fiberglass to the back would be an alternative to welding metal in. The idea seems kinda sketch to me though having a fiberglass/sheetmetal end product that looks good. any opinions or experience? (i will take massive photos w/the products i use also!)

[luohu]

lol.learning.thanks for sharing.

[Thrillseeker]

It`s taken me awhile, but i found a guy who does this stuff that is going to let me watch him work next week . I`ve done "some" fiberglass work and was told that cutting out the rust holes and applying fiberglass to the back would be an alternative to welding metal in. The idea seems kinda sketch to me though having a fiberglass/sheetmetal end product that looks good. any opinions or experience? (i will take massive photos w/the products i use also!)

So, any progress? Metal replacement will last much longer than a fiberglass patch. A glass patch can be bondo`d and glazed so that you would never know it is there, but my concern would be total elimination of rust and adhesion of the patch to the inside of the panel due to rust. Do it right the first time and put in metal patches. While you have the piece cut out spray rust killer inside and kill all the rust so it doesn`t come back or your new paint will rust bubble and you will have wasted all your time and money. Eastwood Supply has a lot of stuff that might help make block sanding easier such as blocks and guide coat. Prep is the key to a great paintjob. If you prep it right a good painter should be able to easily paint it. Have them spray lots of clear on it so you`ll have plenty of thickness to buff it out initially and in the future. If you have never painted before you may not want to practice on your pride and joy after all your prep work. Sanding runs isn`t much fun. Good luck! I have a 70 Monte Carlo in the same shape as your Nova so I feel your pain and share your dreams.