Chevy Small Block Performance upgrades?

[wytstang]

Torque is angular force or a twisting motion, it`s what moves the crank which is then transferred thought the drive train to the rear wheels.



Horse Power is a measure of power, it`s defined as work done in a straight line.

The angular force is what moves the car not the work being done in an up and down motion.



Example: Removing a lug nut from your car requires torque or an angular force. If you put the wrench vertically and stood on it (assuming you could keep your balance of course) would that break the lug nut free? Nope it`s not moving.

Torque and Horse power are not the same.

BTW Power=Work/Time; Horse Power is Torque*rpm/5252

[jimmie jam]

just get an LS2 crate. 400hp/400ft lbs . :chuckle: problem solved.

[wfedwar]

Torque is angular force or a twisting motion, it`s what moves the crank which is then transferred thought the drive train to the rear wheels.



Horse Power is a measure of power, it`s defined as work done in a straight line.

The angular force is what moves the car not the work being done in an up and down motion.



Example: Removing a lug nut from your car requires torque or an angular force. If you put the wrench vertically and stood on it (assuming you could keep your balance of course) would that break the lug nut free? Nope it`s not moving.

Torque and Horse power are not the same.

BTW Power=Work/Time; Horse Power is Torque*rpm/5252

This is crap. Why do you post if you don`t know what you`re talking about?

[wfedwar]

Torque is angular force or a twisting motion, it`s what moves the crank which is then transferred thought the drive train to the rear wheels.



Horse Power is a measure of power, it`s defined as work done in a straight line.

The angular force is what moves the car not the work being done in an up and down motion.



Example: Removing a lug nut from your car requires torque or an angular force. If you put the wrench vertically and stood on it (assuming you could keep your balance of course) would that break the lug nut free? Nope it`s not moving.

Torque and Horse power are not the same.

BTW Power=Work/Time; Horse Power is Torque*rpm/5252

What are you talking about???

[wfedwar]

Nevermind, I think I figured out what you don`t understand.

[wytstang]

Riiiiiiiight

[SCU]

Upgrade the cam and later get some high flow heads(seafoam the engine before the install). We pulled 120 extra horsepower out of the 94 3500 that way and we used, used parts so think if you got new stuff.

I agree but I think that would be a lil too much since thats more power then what he was looking for. But then again, there`s never such a thing as too much power

[noego]

if you have an erection, and you push down on the end of it and your legs fly out from under you, that is an example of torque.

[imported_MBenz]

just get an LS2 crate. 400hp/400ft lbs . :chuckle: problem solved.

I thought about this and i am still seriously considering it. Only problems are price and finding a one in good condition with a transmission.

I agree but I think that would be a lil too much since thats more power then what he was looking for. But then again, there`s never such a thing as too much power

The limiting power factor is the transmission and brakes. As far as i can tell the stock 4l60e is safe up to 360 foot pounds so if i do major power upgrades, i think i will need to build the transmission accordingly. This suburban is chronically under braked, even with the best pads and rotors, it takes way to long to stop. Small dics up front and drums in the back don`t cut it on a 6000+ pound suv. All the power in the world means nothing if you can`t put it to the ground and stop it. Bigger brakes mean new wheels to fit the bigger rotors and calipers.



After much thought i realize this is going to be an expensive endeavor. I estimate about 5k to do it right (engine, transmission, and brakes) and i don`t know if it is justifiable for the 20 or so trips a year that we would like the performance. The burb has 150k hard miles and so far has been an absolute champion workhorse. For the last 10 years it has been ridiculously reliable and it will never leave the family, but i am hesitant about a 5k investment as is is not broke, so don`t fix it kinda thing.



I appreciate all the discussion on this topic. :thx

[BigJimZ28]

The limiting power factor is the transmission and brakes. As far as i can tell the stock 4l60e is safe up to 360 foot pounds

just an F.Y.I.

I ripped the transmission output shaft in half

on a stock 4l60e in my 97 z28 and have had the trans "fixed" several times

with far less then 360 food pounds

[imported_MBenz]

just an F.Y.I.

I ripped the transmission output shaft in half

on a stock 4l60e in my 97 z28 and have had the trans "fixed" several times

with far less then 360 food pounds

Wow. That is good to know. I replaced the transmission about 10k ago for this same reason and that was stock, but i kinda new it was coming. We drive the crap out of this car.

[MikeEast]

"Torque is quick, horsepower is fast."



I`d go for a tuner first, free-flow the intake, my AirHammer intake is worth 12-15hp, dyno proven. Then free-flow the exhaust with headers/high-flow cats and a decent catback. My MagnumRT gained a repeatable 25 ftlbs of torque on the dyno just adding a Zoomers catback. The coolest sounds ever are an added bonus.



Then, a cam change if that`s feasible, looking for all the torque in the world at the lowest possible rpm range - give up high-rpm power in favor of the low and mid rpm range. That was the concept I presented when I had my DiabloSport Predator `CMR` tuned, and now it`s a two-ton+ mid 13@100+in the 1/4 station wagon and gets 25-27mpg on the way to the track and back.



Mike

[longdx]

The beauty about this is that the 350ci has so many aftermarket parts that it is relatively inexpensive to upgrade your engine`s power. I would definitely look at an air-intake and exhaust combo.

[Irkie500]

Intake, Exhaust, Swap for a new Intake Manifold, and if you really need it look for a healthy cam to put in there as well.