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  1. #16

    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Irvine, S. California
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnZ3MC
    The CO will be perfect for you, the same situation I had to deal with.

    I`d go with the same type of dense felt pad that comes with the kits listed earlier because I`m thinking only the heavy felt type can give the kind of `bite` and strength needed for working with glass. The softer foam ones would just wear out and break apart way too soon.

    The felt ones are common so you shouldn`t have trouble finding one locally.

    -John C.


    John,



    What is CO? Are you refering Country Orange pad?



    Can I buy felt pad at Home Depot, Ace....etc.?

  2. #17

    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Sidney, B.C.
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    Quote Originally Posted by opass
    John,



    What is CO? Are you refering Country Orange pad?



    Can I buy felt pad at Home Depot, Ace....etc.?
    Sorry, I was getting lazy and did CO instead of `cerium oxide`.

    The pads are circular, like a hockey puck, about 2/5 - 3 inches in diameter and about 2 inches thick. There is a metal shaft for chucking it into an electric drill.

    You fellows from the USA are lucky to have really comprehensive tool and accessory shops so I`d head for the polishing section and see what they have to offer.

    Probably Home Depot or maybe a big hardware/tool store. We have something called `House of Tools` here and they have them.

    -John C.

  3. #18

    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Montreal , Que
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    31
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    Hey John,



    I`m ordering the JCWhitney kit like yours and i hope it does the trick ...

    Let me know of any other tips.



    Thx

  4. #19

    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Sidney, B.C.
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnvdub
    Hey John,



    I`m ordering the JCWhitney kit like yours and i hope it does the trick ...

    Let me know of any other tips.



    Thx
    You`ll be happy with that kit, it`ll do many, many windshields over the years. Future waterspots a problem? No more with that kit.

    I guess the two biggest tips I can offer is to not give up too early, and don`t let the slurry dry out on the windshield. When it gets nearly dry, stop, inspect your progress, and add more slurry.

    Heat builds up when it`s dry and you don`t want your glass to get really hot.

    Let us know how it turns out.

    -John C.

  5. #20

    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Orange County, NY
    Posts
    7
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    Ok; I finally did it. When I got home from work today I dug out the Eastwood kit I bought 2 years ago and decided to put it to use. I was still a bit apprehensive and skeptical so i tried it on my Jeep first since I didn`t care if I screwed the window up on it. after trying it on the Jeep without ruining the window I decided to go for it.

    Alls I can say is WOW, why didn`t I do this sooner! I did not have deep scratches to contend with just 21 years of haze and water spots that nothing else I have ever tried would remove but this kit is so effective my windows look like new now.

    The only thing that i can offer on the way of advice is this, instead of using my standard drill I used my Milwaukee 3/8" right angle drill. Using the right angle drill allowed me to have better control and it took about an hour to do the rear window, two opera windows and the door windows.

    This kit really worked great.
    1972 Scout II

    1986 Monte Carlo SS

    1989 Jeep Wrangler

    1992 GMC Jimmy

    1994 Chevy Silverado Show truck

  6. #21

    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Irvine, S. California
    Posts
    409
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnZ3MC
    You`ll be happy with that kit, it`ll do many, many windshields over the years. Future waterspots a problem? No more with that kit.

    I guess the two biggest tips I can offer is to not give up too early, and don`t let the slurry dry out on the windshield. When it gets nearly dry, stop, inspect your progress, and add more slurry.

    Heat builds up when it`s dry and you don`t want your glass to get really hot.

    Let us know how it turns out.

    -John C.


    I just did a 6"x6" (TESTING) with a green polish pad and rotary buffer 1600 rpm for about 90 seconds. It reduce a lot of the scratches (80% improve).



    If anyone one want to try it, be perpare the big mess from the slurry flying all direction. Cover the paint area if possible. And make sure wash the car with a lot of shampoo after the job.



    Will continue the rest next week.

  7. #22

    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Irvine, S. California
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    409
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    Hello folks,



    I finished fix the windshield yesterday. The swirl marks on the glass are GONE.



    Did not have the Felft Bob and used the 3" Country Green Polishing pad instead. Just wet the pad for a few minutes and applied the slurry on it. I used the spray bottle with water to make sure the working area won`t dry up. It turned out no ill affect. The scratches are gone. Mission completed.



    Just make sure you wash the car with a lot of shampoo at least 2 times to flush out all the glass compound out.



    Excellent product. Be prepare, it is a messy process. Cover the paint and trim prior.

  8. #23

    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Sidney, B.C.
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    Quote Originally Posted by opass
    Hello folks,



    I finished fix the windshield yesterday. The swirl marks on the glass are GONE.



    Did not have the Felft Bob and used the 3" Country Green Polishing pad instead. Just wet the pad for a few minutes and applied the slurry on it. I used the spray bottle with water to make sure the working area won`t dry up. It turned out no ill affect. The scratches are gone. Mission completed.



    Just make sure you wash the car with a lot of shampoo at least 2 times to flush out all the glass compound out.



    Excellent product. Be prepare, it is a messy process. Cover the paint and trim prior.
    Glad it worked out well for you and thanks for sharing the tip about the green pad, I never would have guessed it worked as well as it did.

    -John C.

 

 
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