Wax or sealant for boat hull (bottom)

[JaredPointer]

In preparation for adding a keel shield to my boat (and let`s face it - it really needed to be done), I have been working the past few evenings on polishing out the oxidation, dirt, and grime on the bottom of my boat. Unfortunately, the hull bottom is white, so it get dingy fairly quickly. I`m almost done with the compounding & polishing and was wondering if we had any boat folks (I know we have a couple) to suggest a wax or sealant for this area. I am leaning towards Collinite. It`s below the waterline, so I assume it won`t last all that long. I`m hoping I can use something that will last to the point where I can do just re-apply 2-3 times per year.

Just curious what other boat cleaner uppers might suggest.

Also, I sure do wish I could get the boat up off the trailer to get to the areas that sit on the bunk boards. Oh well....

[RTexasF]

Collinite Heavy Duty Fleetwax (No. 885) would be your top choice both above & below the waterline. It`s not the easiest to work with but extremely durable.

If the bow chock on your trailer (at the winch) is black, replacing it with an amber neoprene one will stop any black marks from transferring to the hull.

All boat dealers have a boat lift to get them off of the truck. Perhaps you could have yours lifted from the trailer in order to work on the small areas that the trailer bunks cover..........just a thought.

[JaredPointer]

Collinite Fiberglass Boat Wax (No. 925) would be your top choice both above & below the waterline.

If the bow chock on your trailer (at the winch) is black, replacing it with an amber neoprene one will stop any black marks from transferring to the bow of the hull.

I`ll be replacing it then. Just adding some finishing touches that I think will help the boat look better, longer. I wish the previous owners hadn;t beached the white hull on (apparently) concrete boat docks.

[Poorboy]

we sell a ton of PwC (white) to boat shops and owners

[RTexasF]

There`s another angle I hadn`t considered. Thank you Steve.

[slowride66]

I know I ask this alot but , how about some pictures?

I used to do nothing but boats, Real big boats using gallons of wax @ a time.

Here is the procedure ,tried & true.

As far as the bottom anything ,unless specially designed to withstand being in the water ,most waxes will dissipate in a few hours & you will have worked your arse off for NADA .

Step #1:
If the boat is a yellowish shade 9 out of 10 times "ON / OFF" by Mary Kate will take any rust & yellow stains off.

Extremely toxic it must be squirted on in a uniform way I use a small squirt cone that comes with the Quart bottle.

Then can be moved around with a soft long handled brush DO NOT LET DRY . Best done in the early morning before its too hot & applied onto the glass when it is dry to maximize its cleaning effect. Do small areas @ a time until you are comfortable with it.

Wear GOOD rubber gloves & maybe a paint respirator,WASH off yourself immediately {trust me you`ll know if you get a drop on you}

Step #1.1:

Compounding .
{When I 1st started detailing we did this by hand try that on a 70` sport fisherman!}

Yes me tough like BULL! {back then} LOL!

WHITE compound! its tough to find it in quantity but it has the best grit for the job, if not then start with a mild compound , If needed move up to the heavy machine compound . Make sure the Orange color is not sucked up into the pours of the fiberglass & leave you with a bunch of Orange stains.

Step 1.2:
Wet Sanding.

If all that has not brought up the desired color,depth & shine with a good cleaner wax then Wet Sanding is in order.

Its a lot of work I have only had to do a whole boat once & I worked my Arse off & did not charge enuf , but I digress.

Step #2
Then a good Old School Cleaner Wax .
Wax On ...Wax Off .
Cleaner wax is a must on Fiberglass the stuff I use literally get into the fiberglass dissolves the small particles of dirt & when it flashes brings the dirt to the top of the wax to be removed in the flake.

Step #2.2:

Sometimes in a rare occasion 2 people are needed to remove the wax while wet working small areas, {can be done with 1 person but a a double boat load of work your arms will fall off}

Step #3:

Re Wax with a hard Old School Wax.

Like I said this is a Old School method that works each & every time.

The problem with the Old School Cleaner Wax is its soft & does not last long.
I found that if I used a really hard wax right over what I just did my wax job would last 6 to 10 times longer with the cleaner wax only lasting 1 month in the rainy seasons.

Step #4 :

Maintenance Washing with car wash & nothing else will help keep the job lasting longer.


NOTE;
This is the method & products I use till this day .

Now, I know there are a lot of new school products that have made detailing so much easier & I have not tried any new "experiments" with the new product on boats , they could be compatible & maybe not. sometimes trial & error is a great learning tool.

If you have any Questions about what I wrote feel free to ask me.

What exactly is Collinite ? is it a permanent sealer?


SR66

[JaredPointer]

I`ve already got the compounding done (oxidation removed), just waiting to order a keel shield now. Then I`ll use some sort of wax - most likely Collinite (after doing some research, reading boat forums, suggestion here, etc).

Collinite is a long-lasting carnauba based wax. Pretty much no frills or fancy scents - it just does what it`s supposed to do. It`s relatively cheap too.

FYI - the rest of the boat looks great - just the bottom of the hull that I`ve pretty much neglected.