Hi, I will try again with plenty of water, thanks.
Hi Mike.
I should get rid of the LED light as honestly in all outdoor lightning conditions these fine swirl are invisible under close inspection except maybe direct sunlight with black colour under the glass like on edge of windows. But still I`m curious.
I`m using Mint pros DAS6.
Lots of replies, I will have to read them later. thanks all
I recently used Car Pro Ceriglass, 3" Lake Country Hydro-Shred Cyan (Blue) pads on all the water spotted glass of a vehicle..
Used my Makita Rotary, kept the surface from drying. Could have used the Porter Cable but it would have taken longer..
All the glass came out beautiful, flat, very glossy, no swirls, etc.., no more water spots..
Applied the Flyby30 Coating, all came out beautiful..
I would never use rayon, etc., stuff, unless it was the absolute worst, spotted, etched, etc., glass ever..
Have to match the equipment, products, to the job...
And before a lot of people here were born, the mantra was always use the least aggressive method -first -
DanF
Ah, thanks for posting that.
[quote]Applied the Flyby30 Coating, all came out beautiful..[\/quote]
Would you judge that stuff Accumulator-proof?
And before a lot of people were born, the mantra was always use the least aggressive method -first -
Ain`t nobody got time for that!" these days...
Backl before most Autopians were born, auto glass was really glass and IMO less picky about what you could use on it.
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 DislikesStokdgs liked this post
[QUOTE=Accumulator;2148526]Ah, thanks for posting that.
Mi Hermano,Applied the Flyby30 Coating, all came out beautiful..[\/quote]
Would you judge that stuff Accumulator-proof?
Ain`t nobody got time for that!" these days...
Backl before most Autopians were born, auto glass was really glass and IMO less picky about what you could use on it.
You will have no problems with this process, or a process of your own..
It works very quickly and doesn`t require a lot of time to get clear and then it`s time to stop and remove it..
The liquid coating - also very easy to use.. They even supplied some orange suede cloths and a nice small rectangular applicator that has slots in the side to hold the suede cloth..
Coating came off easy after drying, glass stays much cleaner between washings.. Beads water very well..
I also remember real glass.. My Dad`s Humble Oil Gas Station, Shop, and Body Shop had a bunch of pre`50`s to mid `40`s cars in back.. Loved those old dogs !!!
Those guys really had the Real Glass you remember...
Once I opened up the trunk of one of those cars back there, and a huge Cecropia Moth was in there !!! https://www.google.com/search?q=cecr...%252C_&usg=AI4
I won the entomology science award that week in Mrs. Rabel`s 4th grade class.. Then that giant moth laid a zillion eggs on the leaves in the huge jar I had her in, before I let her go..
Dan F
Well I just got done doing another test area this time using more ceriglass & alot more water so it stayed quite wet the whole time. The end result was fine swirl still under LED inspection. Just a fact of life & you probably wan`t see it at all in ordinary light sources. Is there such a thing as a softer glass?
Same thing happens when polishing up plastic headlight covers because there is no applicator that removes scratches without leaving its own. By the sounds of things any alternative to rayon will do the same on glass.
How warm can the tempered glass get? I travel the D/A about 1cm per second with decent pressure & by the time I got back second pass its cooled down alot.
Manix- I hope the residual (hopefully MICRO) Marring doesn`t bug you in certain conditions.
Yes indeed, the hardness of modern Autoglass can vary significantly! The TriPlex in my Jag is so soft it came with warning stickers about how gentle you gotta be with it. I figure it has to do with the "plastic" component that differentiates today`s Autoglass from yesterday`s.
Glass can get pretty hot without problems (consider cars left outside in AZ during the summer), but *localized* heat can be weird so don`t go nuts on one small area.
There oughta be *some* applicator that`ll work without contributing its own marring. Consider how so many abrasives are too gentle to work on the lenses and how so many applicators/etc. are softer/safer than those abrasives. Not that *I* have any suggestions
Stokdgs- Thanks for the reassurance that the products/process will be Accumulator-proof. If, uhm...I mean "when"...I use up the RainX, now I have a plan
Cool about that moth!
Setec Astronomy- Well, I have (what I can rationalize as) a good excuse for using the RainX: with its " wiper dead zone" the Crown Vic needs something, and the PO used RainX so refreshing it is an easy solution. I also wonder how long any Glass Sealant will last given how often I clean it (manually).
I wasn`t too impressed with the RainX when I used it on a 911 back in the day, but it isn`t that bad on the CV.
I do find the RainX utterly Accumulator-proof (and doing that huge windshield without being able to prop up the wipers much isn`t easy), so maybe your E1 *is* the culprit. The same stuff that imparts the Metal Polish Smell might be leaving behind an undesirable residue...like every single Glass Polish I`ve used seems to do. I`ve gotten SO cynical about such products simply because *none* of `em have ever worked nearly as well as just using a regular compound/polish and then scrubbing it with that Zep40 Glass Cleaner I like so much. Haven`t tried that on the CV though...
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