Somehow this "wet-look" question ALWAYS leads into the mantra, "it`s not the wax, it`s the surface preparation". I still think that is true, to some degree. Wet-sanded, multi-layered custom paint jobs will look (sooooooo much) better due to the lack of now-so-common production paint orange peel.
Yes, certain waxes do lend themselves to that wet-look; Pinnacle Souveran, comes to mind as being the standard for that look.
That said, when I see pictures in this forum of those vehicles that have been properly prepped (IE; compounded, polished, and jeweled), then coated with some of the best coatings on the market, they rival that "look" of any wax, and, hence, their popularity by detailers and vehicle aficionados today.
I am stilled waiting for a major Concourse D`Elegance event Best of Show Winner to have the distinction of being "Coated with Brand-X" and the accolades that go with it. Maybe it has happened already, though, and I am not aware of it. If it is, I am sure Detail512 and his Polish Angel prowess had something to do with it!!
GB detailer
TheMeanGreen- Ah, yeah...I haven`t used those but based on what I read here that oughta work well.
Huh, you *LIKE* b/c? I gotta say that on some cars (including older ones) I absolutely prefer *very high quality* ss. Just love the look...I`ve always said that I`d rather sell my Jag than see it in b/c (and most would call it "silver"). BUT...OK, from a Pro Detailer`s perspective b/c is a lot neater to work on all right!
Hey, good on you for mentioning the wheels/tires. The choice of Tire Slime, uhm..I mean "Tire Dressing"...for instance.
Try using the PA Contour prep polish and the Carnaubaflocken crème Famous (there`s some color choices that may suit you: PASSION,CENTURION, and SNOWHITE). Great look and great protection. The richness of color it provides may be unsurpassed.
What some people consider wet others might consider plasticy. Waxes generally are generally considered more wet but for ease of use and pretty good looks, I like Z8. Also, I use Duragloss rinseless wash and found that it gives a nice look and that the beading lasts for a couple weeks. Really, you aren`t going to get much more than that out of the majority of waxes with the exception of FK or Collinite.
And the old time trick for single stage paint was to rub it down with kerosene for that wet look. The new trick is to use WD40 but that isn`t going to last more than a day or so and will attract dirt.
As for topping a product, as to whether it will degrade the underlying sealant depends on what solvents are in the topper. P21S is probably OK. Water based sprays would be OK.
3m imperial hand glaze and zymol after cleaning the paint gives the dripping wet look every-time
I`m sure my environment plays a big part in how long I`ve had waxes last on my cars.
3D Carnauba lasted about 5 months on a quarter panel of my daily driven Yaris
FK1000p was on the way to 1 year on the wife`s Kia before I decided to redo it with [I forgot].
I currently have Finish Kare`s Pink Paste on my hood. Applied mid-September. If I`m up for it, I`ll go during lunch and see how it does at the local coin-op.
As for Malm`s.... I stopped tracking 5 waxes at the two month mark. Malm`s was doing well, right next to FK1000p. Though, water seemed to come off a bit faster rate on the Malm`s section.
Here`s a pic of the 5 waxes being compared.
And here`s a short video of water on the hood at two months
For me ital as i mostly have red Italian cars
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JustJesus, how did Fuzion holdup during that 2 month span? Any sign of being still there at the end?
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I always wondered about that "wax for certain paints" that they play up...like, their Glasur is supposed to be "specially formulated for German paints like Glasurit", but Glasurit`s paint is nothing special and the idea of a wax made specifically for it always struck me as silly. No, not saying that about the Ital, but it`s not like all the Italian automakers are using the same paint. Eh, I`m just thinking out loud here..no offense intended.
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