I still use clay for the painted edge on the fender wells, lower rocker panels, and the front end normally
Brandt K.
Formerly the "Best Detailer", now just Super Wax Waster Man. Not necessarily tactful, but normally right. It`s good to be da King !!!
Loved claybars, they really worked well and some were way better than others..
I still have a lot of them, and occasionally use one for something or other, but they are not my first pick out of the cabinet...
But in a production environment, my trusty SM Arnold Rubberized towel is way faster, and it rinses off as you use it if you are using a hose or a wash mitt full or soap, or a clay lube..
I only use the Fine one, not the more aggressive one, so I had to learn to insure that I didn`t miss a spot and that I pressed down hard enough to make contact since it is Not sticky like a claybar usually is...
A really normal, dirty with embedded gunk vehicle is going to take way longer with a claybar because you have to knead it and get a clean spot or clean it when it loads up so quickly..
So the win would have to go to the rubberized towels, mitts, etc., now... they just knock it off, rinse with any liquid and the gunk is gone..
Nothing sticks to it..
There has never been a scientific test to see deep into paint pores to determine which is more efficent and faster, but I have to think after wearing out a couple of these things that the rubberized towel is going to win in terms of speed to finish...
Dan F
The clay towel is akin to QDing. Clay bar is like hand waxing. Its just that much faster.
Metro Detroit`s leader in cleaning, preserving & perfecting fine automobiles!Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 1 Thanks, 0 Dislikes72camaross liked this post72camaross thanked for this post
There`s more surface area with a clay alternative than a clay bar. I also find it works better than clay (as in less passes to remove contaminants).
My findings came when I compared my Riccardo yellow clay bar to my Nanoskin Autoscrub medium grade yellow wash mitt.
The wash mitt also holds lube so you don`t need to spray as often. You don`t have to fold or knead the clay alterative, just a quick dip in the soapy water and you’re ready to keep going. I typically use the medium grade clay alternative wash mitt although I have the fine blue clay towel as well. The fine clay alternative is good for lightly contaminated paint I`m not looking to polish (mostly friend’s cars who don`t go to the race track).
I can`t imagine going back to clay for my entire SUV. The clay towel and mitt also work well under the hood, exhaust, and the inside hub of the wheel where I had some rust building up from the rotor`s.
There`s nothing wrong with clay and it`s probably a bit safer (in terms of marring).
ABC is definitely on my shopping list!
I find Iron-X + Tarminator (or similar) help a lot with decontamination and there`s little to nothing left after for the clay/alternative to shear off.
Yeah, the medium grade clay alternative may mar the paint but I only use it when I plan to polish. If I don`t plan to polish I`m more careful and use the light clay alternative.
Fortunately or unfortunately (depending on how you look at it) I don`t see any marring on my silver Jeep (maybe just I`m getting old or my clear is real hard). Whereas with my mother`s dark red Ford, there was some significant although very light marring going on...
WHOA! I`m lucky to get my rocker panels done in 30 min. I guess we got totally different levels of contamination and/or your paint is way better protected than mine.
After a week of daily driving and racing, there`s rubber & tar up to the top of the A,B,C, and D pillars not to mention that Brembo brake dust and exhaust bonded on the rear hatch.
How big is your chunk of clay? I`m imagining it`d take me a medicine ball worth of automotive clay to get it done in 30mintes
Formerly the "Best Detailer", now just Super Wax Waster Man. Not necessarily tactful, but normally right. It`s good to be da King !!!Post Thanks / Like - 1 Likes, 0 Thanks, 0 Dislikes4u2nvinmtl liked this post
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PM`d you 72camaross
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