First car with DA

[MiVor]

I think the biggest thing to remember with the DA (I`ve been using a PC 7424 for years) is to let the machine do the work. I believe there`s a natural tendency to move the arms too much, too fast (much like using a vacuum as if it was a manual floor sweeper). Go slow and let the machine do it`s job.
Also along with product is the selection of pad density. I think all these different pad densities are more a way to get us to buy more pads. Frankly, I don`t use the softer pads much at all and prefer the orange or yellow pad for most compounding and polishing (I just might not apply as much pressure). Speaking of pressure, I mark my pad backing with a sharpie line to better ensure against too much pressure which could slow or even stop the spin.

[ShakingHorizons]

I think the biggest thing to remember with the DA (I`ve been using a PC 7424 for years) is to let the machine do the work. I believe there`s a natural tendency to move the arms too much, too fast (much like using a vacuum as if it was a manual floor sweeper). Go slow and let the machine do it`s job.
Also along with product is the selection of pad density. I think all these different pad densities are more a way to get us to buy more pads. Frankly, I don`t use the softer pads much at all and prefer the orange or yellow pad for most compounding and polishing (I just might not apply as much pressure). Speaking of pressure, I mark my pad backing with a sharpie line to better ensure against too much pressure which could slow or even stop the spin.

I only applied pressure when I wasn`t getting the results I was looking for. Also, my backing plates are marked with a sharpie (something I learned here!).

[ShakingHorizons]

Here are the water spots I am speaking of -

[Accumulator]

ShakingHorizons- Those are nasty looking!

I`d do a chemical decontamination both to remove the obvious issue and to neutralize anything that`s in the pores of the paint.

Then I`d correct it with something a lot more aggressive than M205 (M101, M105 (which I find easy enough to use), or Ultimate Compound). Then final polish with something like the M205.

Then I`d figure out a LSP that will prevent it from just getting that bad all over again.

[ShakingHorizons]

ShakingHorizons- Those are nasty looking!

I`d do a chemical decontamination both to remove the obvious issue and to neutralize anything that`s in the pores of the paint.

Then I`d correct it with something a lot more aggressive than M205 (M101, M105 (which I find easy enough to use), or Ultimate Compound). Then final polish with something like the M205.

Then I`d figure out a LSP that will prevent it from just getting that bad all over again.

I saw previously in this thread to use Valugard "B", but I am only finding that in a 3 piece set (A, B, C). Also, while searching water spots on this forum, I saw mention of using diluted white vinegar - will that work? Otherwise, what do you suggest?

[ShakingHorizons]

Bump......

[Accumulator]

I saw previously in this thread to use Valugard "B", but I am only finding that in a 3 piece set (A, B, C). Also, while searching water spots on this forum, I saw mention of using diluted white vinegar - will that work? Otherwise, what do you suggest?

I haven`t ordered from ValuGard for a while, but I thought that the three components of their decon. system were available separately. Maybe not..

Other companies are selling "waterspot removal" products these days, but I haven`t tried any except the FinishKare one (and that stuff can be nasty, I wouldn`t recommend it).

IMO the Distilled White Vinegar won`t be potent enough.

And no, I wouldn`t wash the car with CLR from the hardware store either