Acidic Contaminants Identification

[togwt]

Ferrous Metal -

• Light colored vehicles: Small rust orange dots with black in centre of stain.

• Dark colored vehicles: Small white or silver dots with a "rainbow hue" around the particle. The surface will also feel rough to the touch.

Industrial Fallout

• The surface feels rough to the touch and may exhibit crystalline deposits.

• Usually ferrous metal is present, as well as water spots.

Acid Rain

• Surface will exhibit irregular discoloured spotting.

• Dark colored vehicles will show cloudy or grey spots where the acids have started to etch the paint.



Detailer’s Clay vs. Decontamination



Be cognizant that there are two types of paint contamination, above surface and below surface. Before the advent of detailer’s clay it was a common practice to remove paint-overspray with a one-sided razor blade and a surface lubricant or by polishing the surface with a compound / polish and a wool pad.



a) Detailer`s clay - removes paint surface contaminants i.e. it abrades the top section of an iron particle, leaving what is below the paint surface to remain. Once water and heat (reactivity) is added the below surface particulates act as a conduit and the corrosion process is started.



Detailer’s clay is essentially a malleable applicator that contains suspended abrasive particles, used with a surface lubricant it aquaplanes across the paint surface and removes surface contaminants by abrasion and then encapsulation by the malleable polymer and was originally formulated to remove paint overspray; it is also useful for removing surface contaminants that have bonded to the paint.



Detailer’s clay was originally formulated to remove paint overspray; it is also useful for removing surface contaminants that have bonded to the paint surface. It gained its reputation as a decontamination method because it was mistakenly believed that it ‘pulled’ brake / rail dust iron particulates from the paint surface. Detailer’s clay contains abrasives that will only shear any brake dust particles leaving what is below the paint surface to remain. Once water and heat (reactivity) is added the corrosion process is started..



b) Paint decontamination systems were developed as a method of removing ferrous contamination beyond what can be removed by washing or claying alone. The only way to completely remove sintered (heat fused) ferrous iron particles is with a dedicated decontamination system that opens up the paint`s micro pores to release iron particles and to neutralize the caustic compounds that have developed as a result of the particle. In one step, you can eliminate both the cause and its effects. Ongoing damage is immediately stopped and future damage is prevented by completely removing the ferrous particles.



Detailers Clay



Detailer’s clay is made from Polybutene; it was originally invented and patented in Japan in 1987. Tadao Kadate is generally acknowledged as the inventor of automotive clay resin for the removal of paint over-spray. It is formulated with mild abrasives, a common misconception about using detailer’s clay is that it pulls contaminants from the paint, and if this were true there would be no need for it to be abrasive. Be cognizant the using a clay bar can actually add minor imperfections in your paint so it`s always best to follow up with a polish to remove any clay induced micro-marring.



First used by Japanese auto manufacturers on vehicle production lines and then auto body repair shops, the technology was passed on to the US market in the late ‘90’s. Detailer`s clay is now routinely used by OEM`s, professional detailer`s, vehicle auctions and body shops as a simple, safe way to remove paint over-spray, tree sap and industrial fallout from both vehicle paint and chrome and glass surfaces



Corrosion



Detailer`s clay and decontamination are two different processes. The abrasives `shear` the surface contaminates, the sheared particles are then encapsulated by the clay (i.e. the top of the metallic particle leaving the rest embedded in the paint, which acts as a conduit for moisture to the various paint layers, allowing it to continue generating corrosion damage



While clay products are useful for removing paint overspray (this is what the product was originally formulated for) and cleaning surface contaminants, it cannot permeate and deep clean the pores of the paint. So unless a paint decontamination system is used; heat and moisture will react with the metallic particle and continue the corrosion process



Brake dust or rail dust is very small, almost microscopic particles of steel, iron or their alloys. These particles carry a positive charge (due to friction) while the vehicles they land on are carrying a negative charge. The vehicle surface becomes a magnet, attracting and bonding the ferrous metal particles to the vehicle’s paint surfaces.



The corrosive chemical compounds generated then proceed to etch (corrode) the clear coat, the metallic particles (brake dust) penetrate and act as a conduit spreading the corrosives through the paint film system (and the sheet metal), which results in erosion of the paint surface, that shows on the surface as tiny rust spots (rust blooms)



Environmental damage to paint comes in a varied range of threats; acid rain, road salt, tree sap, hydrazine an extremely active acid that is found in jet fuel, industrial fallout, ultra violet radiation (UV) and other airborne contaminants are very detrimental to a vehicles paint film surface. They are all forms of environmental contamination and given the right catalyst; reactivity (heat) plus moisture, they will become acidic.



During this process the metal absorbs oxygen from the water and forms iron oxide (rust). Given the porosity of paint they permeate the paint matrix down to body metal.



Although present on all paint surfaces, sintered brake / rail dust is most noticeable on light coloured paint surfaces, especially white. These contaminants are invisible to the naked eye, once they start to oxidise, and turn orange; this is when the problem will be brought to your attention, even on brand new vehicles.



Stages of Corrosive Paint Damage





Stage One- Iron particulates causing surface staining leading to substrate corrosion



Stage Two - Contaminants have permeated the paint matrix causing discoloration and corrosion damage



Stage Three - Particulates and corrosive compounds causing severe damage to the paints resin (binder) system



Signs of Paint Surface Contamination

• Dark coloured specks

• Brown or Orange (rust) coloured stains or specks

• Yellow stains

• Small metal coloured flecks

• Rough texture

• ‘Water spots’ or marks

• Surface etching

• Oxidation

• Paint ‘stains

In this case, paint care not only serves aesthetics, but also helps preserve the vehicle and its resale value



Post Decontamination / Neutralization



a) Post Decontamination or surface contamination removal: P21S® Total Auto Wash, can be diluted solution 3:1 and contains surfactant detergents and d-limonene (citrus oil) a biodegradable cleaner that can also be used for the removal of tree sap, bug spatters, bird droppings, engine degreaser, wheel wells, rocker panels, floor mats and other grimy areas, this safe solvent cleaner will ensure a there are no surface contaminants



b) Neutralization: ValuGard Acid Neutralizer (part of their decontamination system) that is a blend of acids, including Potassium hydroxide, which deep cleans painted surfaces to remove alkaline deposits and safely dissolves the alkaline salt particles bond with the paint so that they can be rinsed away. Diluted 1:8 and allow product to remain in place for 5-7 minutes (do not allow product drying on paint surface). Rinse thoroughly and then dry paint surface



ValuGard Paint Decontamination System



Vehicle manufacturer studies have shown that failure to remove environmental contaminants (like imbedded rail dust, acid rain, industrial fallout and other environmental contaminants) from paint film can cause premature degradation of the paint system. While clay products are useful for overspray, they cannot deep clean the surface and pores of the paint. This can only be accomplished through a thorough chemical cleaning and acid neutralization.



Surface contaminants



Based upon studies carried out by PPG, DuPont, BASF and Sherwin Williams, the average vehicle`s paint system will absorb up to a pint of water into the substrate when subjected to rain or a car wash.



Superficially-adhered surface contaminants as the name implies sit above the surface of the paint. These contaminants become imbedded in the clear coat when the paint is subjected to heat radiation; they comprise; paint residue (oxidation) tree sap and resin, bituminous asphalt (road tar) particles of road dirt (grit) and grime, carbon emissions from catalytic converters, bird excrement, calcium, tar, oil, hard water deposits, calcium or any pollutant type substance that adheres to your paint surface, sometimes invisible the naked eye.



As they are subject to greater abrasive forces than the surrounding surfaces when a surface prep towel is rubbed over them, they are abraded away and removed. You may be questioning at this point will the abrasives in the towel affect the surrounding paint. This can be considerably lessened by selecting the appropriate abrasive level and using a suitable lubricant. But be aware that the surface prep towel may induce surface scratches that should be removed by polishing



Then why not simply use a surface prep towel to remove all surface contaminants; the answer is that a surface prep towel can be used to remove surface contaminant, but a potential problem arises in that organic contaminants (tree resin and sap, honeydew and insect exoskeletons an), which generally comprise much larger particulates than inorganic contaminants (rail and brake dust, bitumen (tar), etc) and therefore have greater potential to cause surface marring between the surface prep towel and the paint as the towel is moved across the paint surface.



Given that some contaminant residue (acid rain, industrial fallout, sintered brake or rail dust) are usually highly acidic and / or will permeate a paint surface, it makes far more sense to remove them chemically and neutralize the paint surface rather than by using an abrasive polish, as dissolving them using a paint decontamination system and then rinsing them away virtually eliminates the risk of causing surface scratches.



Relevant Articles



1. “ValuGard Paint Decontamination System� - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia...on-system.html



2. “Environmental Damage� - http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-det...l-damage.html#

[Ron Ketcham]

Jon, once again you have taken time and the seeking out of documented, published information, to present the "real facts" regarding a subject that so many are either confused about or lack knowledge of.

It is so unfortunate that most people who profess to wish to care for their vehicles, even full time detailers, do not take the time to consider such documented, informative information.

Appears that most just go with the "propogandia" of mass marketing advertising or that which provides "quick and easy" answers.

The TV ads running today about "I read it on the internet, so it must be true!" mind set is running amuck in the detailing world these days.

As an elder person who has dedicated the last 40 or so years to the industry, to the "gear heads", to providing the true facts, with the written findings of the automotive manufacturers to them, only to watch as they sucome to the "advertising", the "input of peers who have no real, large and volume experience" with many of the concerns they are looking to find resolution to--I am very disappointed in their lack of taking time to search out real facts.

Facts that are published, through vehicle manufacturers technical service bulletins, in their published, owner and shop manuals.

The "documented facts" are there, the result of hours of expensive lab and field testing, by automotive engineers, who are trained and graduated in their field, and have hundred`s of thousands of dollars of expensive equipement, at their disposal to prove out the information they publish to their dealerships of their brand.

I have to admit that these are not always easy to obtain, which is why before I retired, I did as much as I could to place such information on my old companies website.

They either don`t read them or they just "blow them off" as they are counter to the "peer" or "advertising" information, which at first read, seem easier or such.

Sorry for the rant, it`s an old man`s frustration speaking.

However, back to the start, your post of information is on the "money", just so sad that most do not find it in their hearts and minds to read and understand such insightful information.

[togwt]

Thank you.



It’s encouraging to know that the research and provision of information that goes into these articles is appreciated

[imported_PiPUK]

Acidic contaminants... well acid rain often leads to a problem which is in fact down to mineral deposition (this is, of course, distinct to the etching) - these minerals are the opposite and will tend to be alkaline. Fallout/iron contaminants are questionably acidic - think about how they behave. They react strongly with acids but very little with bases (alkalis). The general rule is that likes do not react strong and opposites do - acid reacts with base but not strongly with other acids.



Another thing which really jumps out is when you talk about neutralisation:

ValuGard Acid Neutralizer (part of their decontamination system) that is a blend of acids, including Potassium hydroxide, which deep cleans painted surfaces to remove alkaline deposits and safely dissolves the alkaline salt particles bond with the paint so that they can be rinsed away.

Potassium hydroxide is almost textbook opposite to an acid. It is one of the strongest bases one will encounter. If it does contain this, it will definitely not be for neutralising alkalinity! Something is wrong here...



I am not intentionally being an awkward sod but you are well respected and I have had your words quoted to me before by customers and it`s very hard to convince people when someone with such a reputation has told them otherwise!

[Ron Ketcham]

Just keep in mind that the system has three parts required to obtain the final result.

A, B and C, which, may I add that this system has been tested by PPG, DuPont, Sherwin Williams, Ford, Chrysler, etc by their labs, before issuing of approvals for it`s use.

Often users will consider themselves more intelligent than the afore mentioned companies and their engineers and not use all 3 products as per directions.

Many believe that their car wash soap may be used to replace the C product, "Detail Wash" as the final step.

It is not recommended as the system will not be "completed" if a substitute is used.

[togwt]

Acidic contaminants... well acid rain often leads to a problem which is in fact down to mineral deposition (this is, of course, distinct to the etching) - these minerals are the opposite and will tend to be alkaline. Fallout/iron contaminants are questionably acidic - think about how they behave. They react strongly with acids but very little with bases (alkalis). The general rule is that likes do not react strong and opposites do - acid reacts with base but not strongly with other acids.



Another thing which really jumps out is when you talk about neutralisation:







Potassium hydroxide is almost textbook opposite to an acid. It is one of the strongest bases one will encounter. If it does contain this, it will definitely not be for neutralising alkalinity! Something is wrong here...



I am not intentionally being an awkward sod but you are well respected and I have had your words quoted to me before by customers and it`s very hard to convince people when someone with such a reputation has told them otherwise!

What little I know about chemistry Hydroxides, Amines, Carbonates and Bicarbonates (bases) are used to neutralize acids. In fact any liquid with a pH of 8-14 will have some kind of neutralizing effect on an acid. Potassium hydroxide has a pH of 12 so it should fit the bill

[imported_PiPUK]

Yes but you said:

ValuGard Acid Neutralizer (part of their decontamination system) that is a blend of acids, including Potassium hydroxide...

Maybe it is english but you have stated appears to be that Valugard is a blend of acid and that potassium hydroxide is one of those acids... which clearly it is not.



More over, your last reply suggests that you believe it does contain KOH and thus it neutralises acids. However you originally stated:

ValuGard Acid Neutralizer ....... deep cleans painted surfaces to remove alkaline deposits and safely dissolves the alkaline salt particles bond with the paint so that they can be rinsed away.

So you are saying that Valugard removes alkaline deposits and dissolves alkaline salts, however is more or less the same as saying that Valugard is acidic (as it would have to be so to do the above). But you have also said that it is basic because it contains KOH. So is it acidic or is it alkaline? So is it intended to neutralise acidic or basic residues? It cannot be alkaline (KOH) yet neutralise alkalinity. Acid neutralises alkaline and alkaline neutralises acid. If you add alkaline to alkaline it is not neutralised, it becomes more alkaline...

[Ron Ketcham]

Which is why the A is the acid neutralizer, and the B is a blend of safe and controled acids, with the C being a coconut diamide based neutral shampoo (with one propretory ingredieant).

[imported_PiPUK]

I appreciate how the system works but the description above leads one to believe that the acid neutraliser is:



1) A blend of acids

2) contains KOH

3) neutralises alkaline residues



A single liquid product cannot achieve all of these. Perhaps TOGWT is referring to the system as a whole but this should then be made clear because at present it very clearly refers only to the acid neutraliser.

[Ron Ketcham]

Read the MSDS`s for the three products.

I am not at liberty to devulge more.

The MSDS`s are the required documents, and they are identical to the one`s MotorCraft and Chrysler Canada.

[togwt]

`Interesting` PIPUK. Thank you for your invaluable comments and guidance, as always...