When water on a vehicles paint surface evaporates the residue left behind comprises; atmospheric pollutants; nitrogen oxide from motor exhaust emissions and sulphur oxide emissions from chemical plants, paper making and refineries, it should also be noted that rain water also contains these contaminates, all of which can cause paint discoloration, surface etching and leaving microscopic surface imperfections and micro pores in the paint film surface that are vulnerable to deterioration, these misnamed ‘water spots’ should be removed and naturalized as soon as possible.



These spots are recognizable by white or chalky rings that make the paint appear cloudy. Acid (acid rain, industrial fallout (IFO) hard water minerals (calcium and magnesium) alkali (from a sprinkler system) and of the above when mixed with moisture and heat (reactivity) will cause etching ((a concave circular mark and pitting)) each time moisture and heat are added the acid / alkali is reactivated and it permeates further into the paint surface, if left for too long they can become too deeply ingrained in the clear coat for ‘safe’ removal.



If not removed, these minerals can permanently etch paint and glass. Quick detailers typically contain a wax or polymer and water, using them on an acid / alkali will lock the acid, allowing it to react with moisture and heat, which makes the acid more aggressive




There are two categories of water spot-



a) Stage I Corrosion [/I] [: defined as a surface with light to moderate corrosion damage to the paint surface] [/I]



b)Stage II Corrosion [: definition when the dirt/corrosion deposits are no longer on the surface but have started to break down the molecular structure, leaving an etched or white haze on the surface after the stain has been removed, with moderate to serious paint damage]



Using the least abrasive product first-



1. Use a paint surface chemical cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner)

2. Try to dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral water deposits by trying one or more of the following;



a) Use a 2:1 or stronger solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)



b) Try a 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)



c) Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.



d) Clean the effected surface with Duragloss Nu Glass - a blend of chemical cleaners and abrasives formulated to remove water spots from glass surfaces. Removes water spots without scratching the glass surface, can be applied by hand or mechanical buffer.



4. Chemical Guys Water Spot Remover can be used to remove light etchings that are hard to see or feel. Use caution as this is a really strong cleaning formula.

5. Use detailing clay to remove any `hard` surface granules

6. Use a machine polish (Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound) and a cutting (LC White, Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4- 5.0) to level the surface

7. For PPG CeramiClearâ„¢ Clear Coat or other hard clear coats substitute Menzerna for machine polish; PO 203 S - Power Finish

8. Use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive polish / foam pad set-up

9. Wet-sand with 2000, 2500 or 3000 grit finishing paper




a) Surface water spots- (Stage I Corrosion) alkaline watermarks consist of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) both of which are basic (alkaline pH 10) that alight on the surface; ultra violet (heat) radiation (UVR) will leave a white ‘water mark’, the minute crystals bond to the surface, they will not wash off as they are insoluble and if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark, remove surface deposits with detailer’s clay and an acetic acid pH 2.0 (vinegar) to naturalise the alkaline



b) Below surface (etched) acidic spots- (Stage II Corrosion ) are caused by an aggressive alkaline or an acidic solution (acid rain, bird excrement or industrial fallout) causing a chemical reaction, if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark. Etched acid rain spots are one of the most difficult paint defects to remove so be patient as it will probably take more than one attempt to remove them. Acid spots require an abrasive polish to level the surface (some stubborn marks may require wet sanding) and an alkaline solution to neutralize them, simply rinsing a vehicle with deionised water or tap water activates / reactivates the acid concentrates. (A B C Decontamination / Neutralization system) (See also Industrial fall out (IFO) Acid rain and Reactivity)

If the paint can be rectified by chemical means then this is the answer; not abrasive polishing. Using the correct chemical cleaners will dissolve the contaminants rather than abrading the paint. With all cleaning products (especially solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it won`t discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (s) have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a polymer and / or Carnauba wax protection be applied immediately




1a) Removing Surface- (Stage I Corrosion)

• Use detailing clay to remove any `hard` surface granules

• Use a paint surface cleaner (Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner or / Zaino All-In-One (Z-AIO)

• Dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral water deposits try one or more of the following;



a) Use a 2:1 solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)



b) Try 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)



c) Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.



Allow chemical solution sufficient react time (5-10 minutes)



• Use a clean spray bottle and 100% cotton Micro fibre cloth to apply the solution to the surface

• Or soak a first aid gauze pad with the vinegar/ water solution, this will help it stay in place during the necessary react time, 5-10 minutes) wipe off any residue from surface and dry with a damp waffle weave towel

• Use a clean spray bottle and 100% cotton micro fibre cloth to apply the solution to the paint surface

• Wipe off any residue from the surface and dry with a damp waffle weave towel

• If any `water marks` remain apply distilled white vinegar or Isopropyl alcohol un-diluted to a 100% cotton micro fibre towel, using a medium/heavy pressure on surface, for stubborn spots use an abrasive polish as in 1b)




1b) Removing etched (sub- surface) - (Stage II Corrosion)-

• These can be removed by using detailer`s clay to remove any hardened surface deposits

• Then using a machine polish ( Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound, Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner or Klasse All-In-One (AIO) and a cutting (LC Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4-5.0 ) to level the surface (use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive set-up)

• Work on a very small area at a time (2-foot x 2-foot) until the polish has run out

• Repeat this process two or three times, as necessary

• Reapply surface protection once spots have been removed.

• If none of the above methods remove the etched water spots consider wet-sanding the paint finish




1c) Using a polish or compound will remove the etching and the indentations, the surface should then be neutralised



Neutralization – after washing the paint surface use a chemical paint cleaner (Klasse all in one (AIO) or ValuGard "N" New Car Prep; follow with ValuGard Acid Neutralizer (Step I) - neutralizes acids deposited on the paint surface and in the pores of the paint. If the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acidic residue will be reactivated by heat and moisture. If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish and then apply a paint protection.



Protection - an acrylic polymer or polyethylene-acrylic (Klasse, Jeff Werkstatt or Duragloss #105 Total Performance Polish) are all acid-based so they are resistant to acidic pollutants (acid rain, bird excrement, and etc) there is no. For added protection apply an organic wax over the polymer sealant as this sacrificial barrier and by washing the vehicles paint surface on a regular basis.



Be cognizant that there are no polymers, nanotechnology coatings or waxes that are acid-proof; they will only offer short-time resistance. The most pertinent factor is to have a layer of (sacrificial) protection between the acid and your paint surface. The second is to ensure that is removed and any residue is neutralized as soon as possible. For added protection apply an organic wax over the polymer sealant, as this acts as a sacrificial barrier and by washing the vehicles paint surface plus the reapplication of the sacrificial barrier on a regular basis