Vehicle Preparation



If you have varying seasons where you live then you know what winter can do to your car. It’s a shame, but salt literally tears apart your interior from the door panels to the carpets. Come spring, it’s important to get rid of this completely. The danger of salt is that it dehydrates plastic, fibre, and virtually any surface inside and out of your car… contributing the deterioration of these finishes.



By shampooing floor mats, carpets, and any affected interior surfaces, you’re stopping salt in its tracks and refresh the look of your entire car. There’s no better time than the turn of a season to get this done, as spring usually marks the end of snow, road salt, and brine solution.



After a long winter of wear and tear through snow, salt, volcanic dust and now pollen; your car will be in need of a little TLC. Summer brings with it not only pleasant weather and the lure of the beach, but like winter, its own vehicle cleaning / and preparation regime

Now is a good time to treat your car to a spring clean. Salt is a corrosive and will cause rusting if left on the bodywork. If possible take your car to a car wash that specialises in under-car cleaning to get rid of every trace. The pollen season starts around now and can be pretty miserable for hay fever sufferers, so replacing your cabin pollen filter annually is a vital investment. Keeping your air-con well maintained will help with the hot summer temperatures too









Mercedes-Benz E-Class Cabriolet



Revitalizing



Whether it is your car’s vinyl (1z einszett Vinyl Rubber Care & Potectant "Tiefenpfleger”) finished leather upholstery (Leather Master™ Soft Touch (ex Vital) - Not for use with N-Nubuck / Alcantara This is NOT a conditioner per se but is used to improve and maintain the tactile feel and lustre by rehydration and to ensure the leather remains soft and supple. Conditioning products are an important detailing step that cannot be overlooked, especially come spring. You can usually tell by the appearance of plastic and vinyl trim and rubber if it needs revitalizing or not because it will look faded, dry, or cracked. Often it is thought that a simple clean will do the trick, but unfortunately this is not the case. Conditioning helps to restore the various surfaces of your car, lengthening their individual lifespan as well as your vehicles.



Exterior



It should go without saying that if you care about preserving your car’s look at all, you don’t take your car to an automated car wash with huge brush rollers or a touch less wash with their harsh chemicals. And you don’t let so-called professionals using a hand-car-wash technique wash it either, especially those hired by a dealership or a service centre. These people use the same soap bucket from car to car and haven’t the slightest clue about proper car washing techniques. Same thing goes for high-school fund raiser`s, just give them the money and drive on, they won`t be offended



Removing Dust from a Paint Surface



One of the first rules of paint care (especially noticeable with dark colours); the less you touch the paint surface; the less you’ll scratch it. Washing the car is the most efficient way of removing surface soil, dust, etc.



Quick Detailer (QD) - a typical quick detailer spray is formulated with 80 - 90 % Water, 0.5-1.5% Carnauba wax, 0.1 – 5% Silicone or Mineral oil, so they don’ have the inherent solvent content problems like spray waxes.



If you don’t have time for a two-bucket wash, then use a 1:20 Optimum (OPT) No Rinse Wash™ & Shine New Formula (ONR) / distilled water solution in a fine mist spray bottle.



The surfactants it contains encapsulate and trap dry surface dust, pollen or light dirt particles making them virtually non-abrasive and it can be used without causing scratches. Apply with a long nap micro fibre towel using very little surface pressure, dusting with long strokes in one direction only



Dust build-up-with low humidity conditions and friction on the paint surface will cause static electricity (this is exacerbated by the use of polyester (nylon) Micro fibre) resulting in dust attraction to the paint surface. .Reduced dust attraction Finish Kare #425 - Ultra Slick Polywipe contains polymer for lubricity, anti-corrosive agents, UV inhibitors and patented anti-static agents that gently remove fingerprints, smudges, and other light contaminates and reduced dust attraction.



Heavy Dust



To remove heavy dust use Optimum (OPT) No Rinse Wash™ & Shine New Formula (ONR) a quick ‘wash’; formulated with surfactants to keep dirt in suspension, avoiding surface contact, it also provides surface lubrication, thereby avoiding surface marring. Alternatively use Optimum Instant Detailer - this formulation penetrates and encapsulates light dust (including pollen) dirt, and grime, allowing for their removal without scratching or dulling the surface. As soon as is practical, thoroughly rinse the vehicle with a hose and clean water to ensure all the pollen is removed.



Light Surface Dust



To remove light, dry surface dust without causing scratches apply very little surface pressure, use a California Duster, using long strokes in one direction only, use a product that contains a surfactant; this will lessen surface scratching as they ‘lift’ dust etc into the media used avoiding surface friction (use a solution of Optimum™ no-rinse (ONR) diluted 1:20 / distilled water in a fine mist spray bottle) or Optimum ™ Instant Detailer.



Do not use on a hot paint surface (soon after driving) as this will cause streaking?



Use a long nap micro fibre towel to ensure the dust lifted from the paint surface will remain in the nap and not on the towels surface thereby causing surface marring. Shake the towel occasionally to ensure any particles picked up will drop out rather than come to the surface while you’re using it.



It important to use this methodology only for the removal of dry surface dust, don’t use if surface has condensation or dew, or if the vehicle has oily road film, road tar, damp pollen or dust, etc in these instances the vehicle surface should be subjected to a conventional or Optimum (OPT) No Rinse Wash™ & Shine New Formula (ONR) car washing process



Use a long nap micro fibre towel or a California Duster to ensure the dust lifted from the paint surface will remain in the nap and not on the towel surface thereby causing surface marring. Shake the towel occasionally to ensure any particles picked up will drop out rather than come to the surface while you’re using it.



Proper washing- pre-wash, using C.Quartz IronX to remove sintered metallic particulate deposits and corrosion from road salt and then use a foam gun followed by a two bucket wash system with a GritGuard or a Foam Cannon, use separate wash media and bucket for your wheels and the paint and when drying use water sheeting and / or air powered drying and a waffle weave micro fibre towel. I actually use two wash mitts when washing.



The newest one for the top half of the car and the older one for the lower half which is usually dirtier, especially near the wheels. You don’t want to contaminate your new sheepskin mitt right away with brake dust. It will come off but it takes some effort.



Proper surface drying techniques- this is my preferred method of drying a vehicle paint surface; On the final rinse of the washing process remove the nozzle from the hose, reduce the water pressure and hold the end of the hose parallel to the paint and reasonably close as this is will prevent splashing as you flood the surface. Follow up with a waffle weave micro fibre towel to thoroughly dry the paint surface



These techniques are the best way to avoid the need for polishing. Using a chemical paint cleanser versus polishing on a clean finish to simply remove old wax/sealant is another. And always follow the rule of using the least abrasive polish and pad combination (working smarter not harder)



Wheels



A major piece in post winter detailing focuses on wheels. Salt contributes to the corrosion of metals and alloys that commonly make up the rims of your car, potentially etching and damaging them to the point of repair. By detailing your wheels and following it up with a wheel protectant, you not only will have spotless wheels, but they’ll have the protection to stay that way for an extended period of time. One factor to keep in mind is to find a wheel protectant with a high melting point to ensure the longevity and endurance of the product.A polymer or synthetic wax will protect against brake dust etching, corrosion, and even hot tar encountered on the road.



Clean, properly conditioned wheels, tyres and fender wells greatly enhance the overall appearance of your vehicle. Today`s wheels come in a variety of materials and finishes. Clean one wheel at a time, wash wheels and wheel-wells before the rest of the vehicle to avoid dirt and etc. coming into contact to newly washed surfaces.



• Use detailing clay and lubrication to remove any embedded contaminants

• Use a d-limonene (citrus) based cleaner to remove any road tar or oil. Apply P21S Total Auto Wash to wheel surfaces and let soak in, agitate with a long-handled boar’s haired brush before rinsing

• Spray P21S Wheel Cleaner (Gel or Liquid) this cleaner is 100% acid-free and will not damage any type of wheel finish. (Gel for badly soiled and regular for normal soil) onto wheel rims and lat soak in

• For badly brake dust soiled surfaces use C.Quartz IronX or Sonax Wheel Cleaner both are formulated with neutralised acid salt. Spray onto wheel surface, allow to react, and then agitate with a wheel brush before hosing off



Spare Wheel / Tyre



Check the pressure and condition of your spare tyre periodically, if your vehicle has the spare underneath, check its mounting hardware and spray periodically with AMSOIL Heavy Duty Metal Protector. Also check the cars jack and wheel nut remover and have a drop cloth and a pair of cloves available. If you have after-market wheels be sure you have suitable wheel nuts available for the spare wheel



Tyre Cleaning



The porous nature of rubber attracts oils, dirt, brake dust and road grime. For any type of protection to work efficiently on rubber it must be able to adhere to the surface. First remove any brake dust, blooming, road tar, grease and grime, silicone and oxidized rubber from the surface to properly clean it. The key to tyre dressing durability is deep cleaning the tyre, spray or apply your cleaner allow to soak in for a minute or two and then scrub with a fairly stiff tyre brush, once clean you should be able to take an old white dry terry towel and rub the tyre surface, it should be almost pristine (if not repeat). Tyre cleaner needs to be strong enough to tackle a heavy build-up of tyre dressings, silicone and road grime, but not damage wheel coatings.



A quality citrus-based cleaner (P21S Total Auto Wash) should clean the tyres down to the original rubber surface, this is especially important when you apply a new dressing, as dressings won`t adhere to, or create the right shine on dirty rubber or silicone residue. This tyre cleaner is a strong concentrate; spray-and-rinse, without scrubbing, if you are starting on an old, neglected surface, use a fairly stiff tyre brush for the first application and a spray & rinse at least 3-4 times a year



Alternative products – Optimum™ Polymer Technologies - Power Clean (diluted 3:1: to 5:1) or Griot`s Garage - Rubber Cleaner



Wheel Wells



Those plastic parts see the harshest conditions and are subjected to all the elements. The liner is usually made from SMC (an unsaturated polyester resin) periodically remove the wheels (one at a time utilizing a car jack and / or axle stands) to enable cleaning the back of the wheel, callipers and give better access to the wheel wells. Ensure that the vehicle body is secure by placing on axle stands.



1. Rinse wheel well thoroughly with water.

2. Use a 1:1 solution of P21 Total Auto Wash a d-limonene (citrus) based cleaner and water in a spray bottle, spray the wheel wells and let the solution remain in place for 3-5 min

3. Agitate and brush the road dirt / grime the wheel well and suspension parts, brake callipers, etc

4. Spray the area thoroughly with a high pressure water spray

5. Remove any road asphalt with a safe solvent (Stoners Tarminator)

6. Repeat if necessary

7. Use P21S Polishing Soap on all metal parts (taking care to avoid the brakes)

8. Rinse using a high pressure hose / nozzle to remove soap residue

9. I recommended wearing rubber gloves, once finished, rinse the wheel wells and dry them with an old terry towel.

10. Once they have thoroughly dried, spray with 1z einszett Tiefenpfleger -Vinyl-Rubber Care and Protectant, Adam’s Undercarriage Detailer or Chemical Guys Bare Bones (avoid spraying the brake rotor)



These products leave a matte finish, (not solvent-based silicone dressings) without grease that attracts dirt / dust. Provides protection for the plastic ducts



Paint Surface



Paint Surface Decontamination- IronX Soap Gel is a unique and innovative product that is a non-marring alternative to detailing clay that cleans and at the same time removes iron contaminates from the surface of the paint. This is a highly effective, acid-free and pH corrected (pH6) paint surface and glass cleaner (safe for all painted surfaces including aluminium and alloys).



Airborne chemical compounds and ferrous particles - particles containing iron - actually penetrate the paint and create corrosive compounds that eat deep into the paint`s sub-layers or paint’s pin-holes. This is a gradual process that often is not evident until it`s too late. Claying or polishing only removes the particle, not its effects, which are continuing to spread beneath the surface. During the use of your vehicle, brake dust and road grime become sintered to the surface of the car paint, rims and wheels due to the high temperature conditions they are normally exposed. Brake dust contains high levels of iron and once sintered to the rim, becomes extremely difficult to dissolve or remove without the use of harsh chemicals.



IronX Soap Gel opens up the paint`s pores to release ferrous particles and to neutralize caustic compounds that have developed in the paint`s subsurface. Ongoing damage is immediately stopped and future damage is prevented by removing the ferrous particles.



As the cleansing liquid begins to work into the dirt and grime, the formula begins to turn purple/ red. The purple/red coloration is the Soap Gel forming a bond to the sintered iron on the car paint and wheel and changing its state to a water soluble complex for easy removal. Stubborn, baked on grime may take a small amount of agitation. Rinse car paint and wheels thoroughly with a power washer and wipe dry.



C.Quartz IronX Soap Gel



1. Wash the paint surface with a concentrate

2. Rinse the surface thoroughly with clean water, power wash or hose

3. Pour a few small drops of soap gel onto a wet sponge, and wash the surface.

4. While agitating the surface, the soap gel will start to change colour when it comes intp contact with metallic particles

5. Rinse the surface thoroughly with clean water

6. Dry the paint surface



Average consumption per complete car: 0.5 - 1 fluid oz (20 - 30ml) per car



It can be argued that a polish or compound will do the same thing; problem is that they not necessarily remove surface contaminates but just ‘round-off’ the edges, whereas clay will remove the surface contaminants and a percentage of the applied wax /polymer.



Clay Application – hydroplaning, also known as aquaplaning, is the condition where a layer of water builds up between the surface and the clay, this thin film of lubrication provides a safety barrier that enables the clay to hydroplane across the surface. In other words, by applying enough pressure to ensure contact with the surface the clay will aquaplaning on a micro-thin film of lubrication between it and the paint surface removing the (protruding) surface contaminants by abrasion and encapsulation by the malleable clay.



Without lubrication the clay will abrade the paint surface much like a dry-sanding block and will produce significant fine surface marring. When you start the clay process you’ll feel resistance as you glide the clay with its lubricant, this is normal, the resistance will lessen as the contaminants are removed, once there is no more resistance you can move to the next 2 x 2-foot section. A medium sized vehicle should take approximately 30-45 minutes



Note: You may have to remove minor surface marring caused by the clay (dependent upon its grade of abrasive)



Detailer’s clay is available in various abrasive grades most manufacturers colorize (these colours vary by reseller) the clay to identify differing abrasive strengths; this is accomplished by varying the type, amount or particle size of the abrasive used Polishing



Paint Surfaces



When performing this level of single-step polishing, you`re typically trying to accomplish as much correction as you can while at the same time finishing down very well for a 1-step polish.Menzerna Power Finish PO203S a Lake County (LC) Orange or a Green pad



Paint Protection



For a pristine paint film surface after the application of detailer’s clay or corrective surface polishing, use a chemical paint cleaner (Zaino or Klasse All-In-One) They contains a mix of micro abrasives and cleaning agents that remove oxidisation and ingrained dirt to ensure the surface is clean and the sub-surface is free of any grease or other residue, this will enable an efficient bonding with the paint surface and also ensure product durability. The paint cleaner’s suggested above can sometimes be used instead of detailers clay if the ‘bag test’ doesn’t reveal contaminates but the surface looks ‘soiled’ use a chemical surface cleaner (especially on light coloured paint)



Machine Application - the advantage of using a random orbital machine to apply these products is that it spreads a thin and even coating and requires much less effort than hand application; the downside is that it uses slightly more product.



Methodology- use a slightly damp, Black Lake County (or equivalent) 75 PPI foam pad at medium / low speed

Removing that thin layer once it`s dry should be almost effortless. A quick wipe with a clean, dry microfiber towel is all it takes.



Exterior - Rubber and Vinyl



Periodically clean using Iz einszett `Plastik-Reiniger` an intensive, non-corrosive, non-acidic two-phase deep cleaner for urethane covered upholstery and vinyl trim, that removes grime build-up thoroughly and effortlessly, these chemicals restore your vinyl’s original texture tactile feel and resiliency; use to clean all coloured and clear water-based acrylic polyurethane covered automotive upholstery; this product is biodegradable, formalin-free and environmentally friendly.



Applications - wash vinyl surfaces with P21S Total Auto Wash and then rinse with clean water and then thoroughly dry. Then use 1z einszett Plastik Reiniger. Do not use products that contain petroleum distillates as urethane absorbs them and causes it to yellow.



Protection - with 1z einszett Vinyl Rubber Care & Potectant "Tiefenpfleger” provides a temperature-resistant seal and a low-shine matte finish Dust-resistant and retards the fading effects of UV rays to keep exterior ‘rubber’ and vinyl looking like new. UV-B protection is a sacrificial / renewable component; this is due to the UV protection layer being degraded by exposure to the elements (sun, sand, road or sea salt, and etc) so it is imperative that you renew it and needs to be re-applied on a regular basis (dependent upon location climatic condition)



Application - Spray onto a clean micro fibre towel, agitate it well and then allow it to remain in place for 10-15 minutes. Finally using a clean micro fibre towel buff it to ensure it permeates



Exterior Glass Surfaces



I usually advocate spraying car care products (Stoners Invisible Glass ™) on to a towel and not directly onto the surface being detailed. The exception to this is when cleaning glass, rather than letting the cleaner soak into the towel, which results in insufficient product as a large majority is absorbed by the towel, better results will be achieved by soaking the dirt / grease residue on the glass surface.



Glass cleaning products contain a combination of ingredients including alcohol, ammonia, and detergents that will clean, but may also cause steaks. Depending on how fast or slow these ingredients evaporate, and their concentration, streaking problems may occur.

The residue from these ingredients sometimes dries and evaporates on the glass before they are removed .As with all chemicals they need a certain amount of time to work, so allow area to soak for a few minutes, dry the glass with a clean, dry towel. For each area of glass use the clean side of a folded towel



Exhaust Tailpipe



Two things that can ruin the freshly detailed look of a vehicle; dirty glass or exhaust tips; the exhaust tips can sometimes make or break the rear view of an otherwise pristine vehicle. Spray down the inside and outside of the tips with P21S Total Auto Wash or P21S Polishing Soap, allow to remain in place, it will to start break down the grime. To clean the outside parts of the exhaust use either a Mini E-Z Detail brush (they are perfect for cleaning the areas between dual-tips) or an old micro fibre used strictly for dirty jobs and Optimum Metal Polish.



Wipe down the (inside and outside) exhaust tips to remove initial carbon deposit and any water ‘spots’ using P21S Total Auto Wash and a micro fibre towel. Polish using P21S Polishing Soap (not intended for use on painted, clear coated or anodized surfaces) and/or Optimum Metal Polish and a terry cloth towel on the insides of the tips



Now move on to the outside of the tips once again with Optimum Metal Polish and an older microfiber towel that is no longer used for the painted surfaces, ensure to polish with the grain. Finish Kare FK1000P or Zoopseal are ideal choice as protection as they are both designed to withstand high temp and are extremely durable.



Interior



Vacuum interior surfaces to remove loose dirt / grit and then wipe with a damp micro fibre towel Use1Z Einszett Cockpit Premium, this contains a UV-B ultra violet protection for the interior surfaces

Carpets



Carpeted floor mats: Floor mats take a majority of the wear away from the interior carpet. However, this leaves floor mats with soiling as well as oily stains. Inspect for oily stains.



Use a solvent-based spot remover to remove oily stains. Spot treat really bad stains (303™ Cleaner & Spot Remover or Woolite Heavy Traffic Carpet Foam)



Pour a small amount of cleaner onto a terry towel and wiping toward the centre of the stain to remove the spot. Clean normal to heavy soiling as described above. Floor mats may get as wet as necessary to properly clean them.



Normal cleaning- brush loose dirt/dust with a stiff brush, lightly spray surface with a carpet cleaner (Woolite Heavy Traffic Carpet Foam) and let the foam to remain in place for 5-10 minutes and then remove residue.



Heavily soiled- brush loose dirt/dust with a stiff brush, use a citrus-based pre-cleaner P21S High Performance Total Auto Wash 10:1 distilled hot water, let solution to remain in place for 5-10 minutes to enable cleaners to react, and then use a carpet extractor



The rubber backing and the ability to relocate them to a warm place (not direct sunlight) for quick drying aids their cleaning. After mats are clean and dried, brush them to raise the fibres and apply stain guard (303 High Tech Fabric Guard) to repel grease, dirt and oil based stains and provide UV protection against fabric fading.