Proper surface drying; this is my preferred method of drying a vehicle paint surface; On the final rinse of the washing process remove the nozzle from the hose, reduce the water pressure and hold the end of the hose parallel to the paint and reasonably close as this is will prevent splashing as you flood the surface. Follow up with a waffle weave micro fibre towel to thoroughly dry the paint surface

These techniques are the best way to avoid the need for polishing. Using a chemical paint cleanser versus polishing on a clean finish to simply remove old wax/sealant is another. And always follow the rule of using the least abrasive product first (working smarter not harder)



How Temperatures affect Detailing



Detailing products should be applied to a cool dry surface out of direct sunlight (actual surface temperature of the vehicle) ideal range between 50 (10.oC) and 80.oF (26.oC)

The other climate related condition that should be avoided when applying car care products is direct sunlight, as this will dramatically increase the surface temperature compared to ambient temperatures causing the product to dry prematurely and may render it ineffective.

• Surface Temperature (actual surface temperature of the vehicle) between 50 (10.oC) and 80.oF (26.oC) products will work well within a much broader temperature range, i.e. 45. F to 90. F (4.5-32.oC) but at 45 degrees it will take much longer to dry, perhaps as much as two to three hours) but the best results will be achieved in the 60 to 70 F (15-21.oC) range.

• Most detailing products contain solvents that if used on a hot surface will flash (evaporate) and will negatively affect the product used.

• The oils and waxes used in polishes to provide surface lubrication will evaporate, leading to dry buffing and surface scratches

• A hot surface temperature will cause the car wash concentrates to dry out and when rinsing the surface will cause rapid drying , which will leave water spots

• Using cold water on hot metal will cause heat stress, which will lead to the metal deforming, cracking and failure (rotors, engine parts) once they are warped the brakes cannot work, thermal shock could also cause the engine block structurally fail.

• The same principle applies to hot water on a cold surface (i.e. defrosting ice from a windscreen)

• Cold ambient temperatures (40.F >) - water- based products (polish, wax, fabric cleaners, etc) will be negatively affected at lower temps i.e. some polishes use wax as a lubricant, which will solidify during lower temp conditions, causing the polish to `clump` and become unworkable



Water Spots



[A water spot is an area of dried mineral deposits left on a surface after being allowed to air dry. Water quality, specifically the amount and type of minerals in the local water supply as measured by the total suspended solids or TSS test and other mineral levels such as sodium level, has a big effect on how severe water spots can be] [1]



If the surface can be rectified by chemical means then this is the answer; not abrasive polishing. Using the correct chemical cleaners will dissolve the contaminants rather than abrading the surface.



If water spots are not washed away using normal car wash they might be etched into the wax or paint surface. The next step would be to use a paint cleansing lotion or the cleaner wax indeed. Don’t use a pure carnauba product over the water spots as it has no ability to remove them and will seal them in. You can move to machine polishing as needed, but most the time newer water spots are removed with a chemical paint cleaner type product or distilled white vinegar



With all cleaning products (especially solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it won`t discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (s) have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a polymer and / or Carnauba wax protection be applied immediately



Water doesn’t leave marks or etch glass; it’s the minerals that it contains calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) and reactivity (heat acting as a catalyst) the spots are actually traces of minerals left on the surface. Alternatively they can be caused by industrial pollution (i.e. acid rain, bird excrement or industrial fallout)



Generally surface water-spots have no raised edges and are very shallow and so cannot be felt, they are very similar to micro-fine surface marring. They cannot be removed from the surface by washing but they can usually be removed with a slightly abrasive chemical paint cleaner



There are two categories of water mark (the so-called water spots)



1. Stage I (Surface) Corrosion

[: defined as a surface with light to moderate corrosion damage to the paint surface]



2. Stage II (Sub-surface) Corrosion

[: definition when the dirt/corrosion deposits are no longer on the surface but have started to break down the molecular structure, leaving an etched or white haze on the surface( a concave circular mark ) after the stain has been removed, with moderate to serious paint damage]



Coandă Effect

[: is the tendency of a fluid jet to be attracted to a nearby surface] [1]



This is easily demonstrated by placing the bottom of a spoon adjacent to the flow from a sink faucet. Instead of bouncing away from the spoon’s curved surface, the faucet’s flow attaches to and is redirected along its curve in a curious and unexpected manner. Dryer nozzle shapes can be made to take advantage of this effect to create a venturi and thus provide even more impact velocity and force



Drying used to be my least favourite part of the washing process. I used to loathe the process simply because water is annoyingly persistent; it simply gets everywhere. You dry and dry with a towel, think that you got it all, only to feel a gust of wind and find water leaking from the mirrors and every seam and crevice.



California Jelly Blade - with new V-Blade design, made from medical- grade silicone, it has exceptional contouring and flexibility to easily remove standing water in less time than a towel or chamois, without streaking. I would only recommend their use for drying glass surfaces but not paint as a stray piece of grit will wreck havoc on the paint finish

Features include easy to use ergonomic handle, special “extender” end for hard-to reach areas and “detailer” blade for side view mirrors and fog lights. Dry the windows and mirrors first. A series of careful firm strokes will remove any remaining water

The Air Wand is a high-velocity air nozzle that blows air up to 200 M.P.H. to remove dirt, dust, water, leaves, grass (or any other unwanted non-adhered material) from surfaces and hard-to-reach areas. The Air Wand greatly accelerates nature`s drying action with no adverse effects to existing fragile finishes and delicate surfaces. It saves time and cares for your prized possessions. Simply attach the new Air Wand to the blower and dry the vehicle in a fraction of the time and with less effort - Air Wand - Description (approx 100 USD - 11/09)



The Airmax Two-Speed Filtered Dryer is a dual motor air blower capable of delivering 266 cubic feet of air per minute. It filters the air before it is blown out, assuring you aren’t accidentally sandblasting your paint surface while drying your car. Taking it one step further, the air is also heated 40.oF above ambient temperature, to accelerate the evaporation process and dry the car even faster. It is basically a 27,000 rpm, dual motor dryer, it makes the process easier, faster, and completely eliminates those persistent drips for good.

Do not point the dryer nozzle directly at the paint surface, use it at a 45.0 angle. Dry panel gaps top to bottom to drain water towards the ground, blow water away from not towards any panel gaps



A durable, easy to use nozzle for ‘water sheeting’ with machined brass head and moulded nit rile rubber, which allows the water saver to be stepped on or driven over and it will still work. Simply flex the rubber hose extension and instant flow control from a drizzle to full flow. The water saver will far outlast any other water nozzle. There is no need to turn the water supply off because the water saver will not leak, saving you money and time. Lonn Manufacturing Co



Specifications

• Overall length 8 7/8"

• All brass fittings with rubber bumpers to prevent scratching if dropped on vehicle.

• Equipped with a standard 3/4" garden hose thread hose connection

• Hose is a moulded rubber compound designed to withstand water to 150. F continuous use.

• For use on normal city or well water pressure; not for use on boosted water pressure



Drying a Vehicle using water



Sheet the water by using a gentle flow of water direct from the hose (without a water nozzle) starting from the top downwards, and then use a water blade on the glass surfaces. Remove the water from the paint surfaces with a blower, again from the top downwards and then finish off with a waffle weave towel and a drying / lubrication aid (Dodo Juice -Time to Dry) diluted 1:1 with distilled water



Water sheeting (Marangoni Effect)

[: since a liquid with a high surface tension pulls more strongly on the surrounding liquid than one with a low surface tension, the presence of a gradient in surface tension will naturally cause the liquid to flow away from regions of low surface tension]



This is my preferred method of drying a vehicle paint surface; on the final rinse of the washing process remove the nozzle from the hose, reduce the water pressure and hold the end of the hose parallel to the paint and reasonably close as this is will prevent splashing as you flood the surface; this drying method helps to eliminate water-spotting. Use a forced air blower to remove water residue and then follow up with a waffle weave micro fibre towel to thoroughly dry the paint surface



I have tried many products over the years for drying but I finally found what really works the best, a micro fibre waffle weave drying towel. When they are wet they’re very soft and super absorbent, and glide easily over the surface, the ‘pockets’ in the weave ‘hold’ any dirt or surface debris unlike some other super absorbing products that trap dirt between the towel and paint surface with the potential to cause so serious scratches (never use it when it’s dry and stiff – it can potentially scratch) Wet –Wring- Wipe



That goes for whatever you use for drying, including waffle weave micro fibre towels. Ensure that the towel is really wet and then wring it out thoroughly before using. Blot as much water as you can, do not rub with the damp waffle weave towel. This gets rid of all the remaining drops and leaves only a little moisture behind. One wipe with the waffle weave in your other hand will result in a perfectly dry paint surface, using only waffle weave micro fibre towels with only one pass per area.



Waffle Weave Towel - a waffle (Piqué) weave towel is a synthetic micro fibre woven with a dimpled pattern, which much like an open-cell sponge provides thousands of small pockets to trap dirt or grit. The absorbency of these towels is quite remarkable; they are able to hold seven or eight times their weight in water. Instead of wiping with your waffle weave towel drying towel, blot the paint to minimize adding imperfections



Drying methodology- provided the paint finish has been rinsed adequately (See Drying a Vehicle ‘sheeting’ water) there should be no dirt residue. Water is a good solvent but a very poor surface lubricator. Try using a drying aid type detailer like Dodo Juice USA Time to Dry diluted 1:1 with distilled water, which provides lubricity to the paint`s surface, in tandem with a damp waffle weave towel (wet, wring and then wipe) when drying your car - this will help break the surface tension of the beads causing the water to run off, allowing the towel to soak up more, and minimise water spots while lowering the friction of the towel over the surface.



Take two waffle-weave drying towels; one soaking wet (a wet towel wicks away more water than a dry towel) and one damp. Wring out the wet towel and use it as your primary drying towel, use this towel to blot- dry and check and rinse the towel often. Wring it out as you go, this will leave smaller wet streaks, which you can remove with your damp towel and it should leave a ‘streak’ free paint surface. This drying technique is excellent for black cars (including ‘soft’ single stage paint that shows every surface mark) but look so good when they are properly detailed.



This process never includes scrubbing, rubbing or applying any pressure whatsoever. The only time that pressure needs to be applied to a paint surface is when you are polishing.



Alternative - dry the car using a surfactant type (ONR) detail spray (8oz / gallon) and a waffle weave micro fibre towel. Why? A surfactant encapsulates any dirt and will provide lubricity to the paint`s surface as you blot the paint to minimize adding imperfections. This method will safely remove any water spots that might occur



GP Micro Drying ultra soft waffle weave towel this towel also has a soft foam core that softens the pressure applied to the paint surface. This minimizes those pesky holograms and swirls that result from pressing too firmly on the paint finish.



Drying Paint Surface Techniques



If you’re using softened water I see nothing wrong with using an electrical leaf blower dry off your car (just be careful not to bump the hard plastic nozzle against the paint) but if you live in an area that has hard water, it seems that you’d only be accelerating the evaporation process and that those harmful and often damaging alkaline minerals that cause ‘water spot’ damage, would be precipitated out as the water evaporates and must therefore be collecting somewhere, in the seams or crevices perhaps?



Starting at the roof and then blow out the mirror housing and then work your way down the body (make sure the driveway is free of any loose dust/grit or debris) blow out the light housings and licence plates before you start on the back of the car. Finally the wheels and callipers (ensure that the wheel surfaces are free of brake dust particulates)



Storage



Store wash media (wash mitts, sponges, etc), Foam pads, Micro fibre towels, Foam applicators in plastic zip lock bags (only 90% close if contents are damp to avoid mildew / mould formation) and place the bags in a plastic storage or wall cabinets



Water Blade



The best-known US brand is The Original California Jelly Blade 2010 Version (equivalent UK Autoglym Hydra-Blade) is made of medical-grade silicone, which is very soft and flexible; it will not scratch the paint in and of itself. It can be used to remove water after washing the vehicle without causing scratches by applying very little surface pressure with the blade, wiping with long strokes in one direction only. The blade is preceded by water, much like detailer’s clay; this cushion of water should protect the surface against scratches, especially if you use a drying aid (Dodo Juice USA Time to Dry) to provide surface lubrication



If there is any grit left on the car after washing, the blade may pick it up and drag it across the paint, much the same as a towel would, this can be avoided by wiping the blade with a clean damp towel after every pass.



The water blade should be protected when not in use. If it is crushed in storage, the edge may take a set and leave a stripe of water on the car, the water blade comes with a protective plastic case, use it for blade storage.



Like any tool, the water blade does require a little bit of technique and practice. The first few times I used mine, it tended to chatter on the surface, resulting in incomplete drying. It turns out this is eliminated by using just the right angle, and pressure on a wet blade. Smoothness can also be affected by the surface condition of the paint (wax, sealant oxidation, etc.) and any coating that might be on the water blade itself. I will add that I now only use this tool on glass (neurotically cautious is de rigueur for me)



Caution: do not use a water blade to remove rainwater as there could be road grit on the paint surface or the rain may contain impurities that could scratch the paint.