Detailers Clay

[togwt]

Before the advent of detailer’s clay it was a common practice to remove paint-overspray with a one-sided razor blade and a surface lubricant or by polishing the surface with a compound / polish and a wool pad. Surface contaminates were removed with a polish or by wet-sanding, but these are methods are very invasive and will remove clear coat.



Essentially, detailer’s clay is a malleable applicator that contains suspended abrasive particles, used with a surface lubricant it aquaplanes across the paint surface and removes surface contaminants by abrasion and then encapsulation by the malleable polymer. A common misconception about using detailer’s clay is that it pulls contaminants from the paint, and if this were true there would be no need for it to be abrasive. Be cognizant the using a clay bar can actually add minor imperfections in your paint so it`s always best to follow up with a polish to remove any clay induced micro-marring. An alternative to using detailer’s clay is a chemical paint cleaner; these don’t leave any surface marring



Detailer’s clay is made from Polybutene a malleable polymer material; it was originally invented and patented in Japan in 1987. Tadao Kadate is generally acknowledged as the inventor of automotive clay resin for the removal of paint over-spray. First used by Japanese auto manufacturers on vehicle production lines and then auto body repair shops, the technology was passed on to the US market in the late ‘90’s. Detailer`s clay is now routinely used by OEM`s, professional detailer`s, vehicle auctions and body shops as a simple, safe way to remove paint over-spray, tree sap and industrial fallout from both vehicle paint and chrome and glass surfaces



Regardless of how clean you think your paint is, there are still contaminants stuck on the paint that you need to remove before waxing or polishing your paint. Road film, oil, tar, grease, water spots and other environmental contaminants bond to the paint and glass surfaces and are difficult to remove. Glass and especially the windshield and rear window on trucks and SUVs are prone to these surface contaminants.



Do I need to Clay my Surface?



Claying is not always necessary. However, chances are if you need to ask that question, your vehicle has never been clayed and you will likely have to take action. To verify if your vehicle is in need of claying conduct the ‘Bag Test`



After washing and drying your vehicle place a plastic sandwich bag over your hand or fingers, gently pass over the surface. Does the surface feel silky smooth or rough and gritty? If you felt roughness and/or grit, your surface is contaminated



Polishing vs. Detailers clay



Although they are both abrasive process they are very different; detailer’s clay removes surface contaminants. Polishing removes surface scratches and levels the surface to provide a reflective surface



Decontamination vs. Detailer’s clay



Paint decontamination systems were developed as a method of removing paint contamination that is embedded in the paint surface; beyond what can be removed by washing or claying alone.



Surface Contaminants



Surface contamination comes from a variety of sources, and can be categorized based the typical size of the particles and what they are made of, they are either organic such as bird excrement, honeydew and bug carcasses or inorganic such as brake dust, bituminous asphalt, etc . Brake dust is sharp fractured metallic particulates that embed themselves in the paint along with brake pad adhesive, which is sticky and adheres to the surface



If the paint surface has a rough ‘textured’ feel this roughness is most probably due to surface bonded contaminants, these contaminants come about due to exposure to industrial fallout, paint overspray, brake dust, etc.

While they usually accumulate slowly over time, it is possible for a single event to cause them. Detailer’s clay and a surface lubricant will generally remove them



The only way to completely remove sintered (heat fused) ferrous iron particles is with a dedicated decontamination system that opens up the paint`s pores to release iron particles and to neutralize the caustic compounds that have developed as a result of the particle. In one step, you can eliminate both the cause and its effects.



The Bag Test



A ‘brand new’ vehicle is at least a month old the day you sign the papers and drive off with it. Most vehicles, once they are produced, sit in a giant parking lot outside the factory for at least one month. When they are ready to be shipped it can take one to two weeks.



If the vehicle is to be imported it may take more time shipping by boat, rail and then by road transporter. Once they arrive at the dealer, it can take up to another two weeks for the dealer to remove shipping items and have it ready for the lot. Finally, it`s just a matter of how long it takes for somebody to purchase it. It could be three days, it could be four months. As you can see from the above a ‘brand new’ vehicle is actually three plus months old



Even new cars that have been sitting on a car dealerships lot for a few weeks can accumulate contamination that bonds to the paint surface; it shouldn`t be assumed a vehicle that looks good is contamination free. Here’s a simple test that will indicate whether or not you need to clay.



Wash and dry your vehicle, put a plastic sandwich bag over your hand and lightly rub your fingertips over the paint The plastic film between your fingers and the paints surface greatly heightens sensitivity.



If it feels rough or you feel little bumps or protrusions every snag you feel is a surface contaminant that the clay bar can remove but you may not be able to see, especially on white or light colour vehicle surfaces.



Detailing clay has made a huge impact in paint finish care because it removes oxidation and allows the paint to remain healthy, longer. Applying a coating over a paint finish does not stop oxidation; it only slows it down. Using a chemical paint cleaner is better for your paint finish; because they strip away some oxidation and allow the coating to obtain a better hold (anchoring to the micro-fissures of the surface) and lasting longer to retard oxidation.



Application



Aquaplaning, also known as hydroplaning, is the condition where a layer of water builds up between the surface and the clay, this thin film of lubrication provides a safety barrier that enables the clay to hydroplane across the surface.



In other words, by applying just enough pressure to ensure contact with the surface the clay will aquaplaning on a micro-thin film of lubrication between it and the paint surface removing the (protruding) surface contaminants by abrasion and encapsulation by the malleable clay. Without lubrication the clay will abrade the paint surface much like a dry-sanding block and will produce significant fine surface marring.



Form a 2 or 3-inch disc approximately 1/8- inch thick, the disc should be slightly larger than your fingers and thick enough that friction will not wear a hole through the clay. Your fingers are applying the necessary pressure, so a disc that is too large is serving no useful purpose; a disc slightly wider than your fingers allows the clay to transverse surface contours



When you start the clay process you’ll feel resistance as you glide the clay with its lubricant, this is normal, the resistance will lessen as the contaminants are removed, and once there is no more resistance you should move to the next 2 x 2-foot section. Knead the clay so there is a fresh surface, once it picks up abrasive contamination it becomes just like sandpaper. A medium sized vehicle should take approximately 30-45 minutes



Common Questions



Does detailing clay pull contaminants from a paint surface?



Contrary to popular belief it does not pull the metallic particles from the paint surface, if this were true it would not need to be abrasive. The abrasives `shear` the surface contaminates, the particles i.e. the top of the metallic particle are then encapsulated by the clay, leaving the rest embedded in the paint.



Does detailing clay actually remove contaminates or does it just shave off the top, making the particulates flush with the paint?



This would depend upon the type of contaminate. The clay bar may not totally remove rail dust, but it will shave off the protruding particles. It will, however, easily remove surface contaminants like tree sap or paint over spray.



Does my paint surface require the application of detailer’s clay?



Is the paint surface showing one or more of the following; coloured or yellow stains, water marks (spots) black metallic coloured flecks, a rough texture, etch marks (concave depression) oxidation, bug or bird excrement.



How often should I use detailer’s clay?



Usually twice yearly is average, but that would depend upon your environment and how you maintain your car see ‘bag test’ above, If you find the need to use detailer’s clay on a regular basis use a mild clay- Sonus SFX Ultra Fine or Pinnacle Fine Clay



If I’m going to polish the car with an abrasive, do I still need to use detailer’s clay?



Polishing and detailer`s clay are very different processes; although they both use abrasives, detailer’s clay is a malleable polymer that encapsulates the contaminants. One good reason to clay before you polish; polishing can result in smoothing and rounding the surface contamination it making it significantly harder to remove later. Although a polish / compound will remove the contamination there is a risk is that the abrasive particles will become embedded in the foam pad, which will cause surface scratches / marring by making the foam /polish more abrasive than necessary and may cause deep scratches



How often can detailer’s clay be reused?



Inspect the clay surface often and fold (knead) clay to present a clean surface to the paint to avoid scratching; when the clay surface becomes really soiled (it becomes more difficult to find a clean surface by kneading, relegate to wheel or glass surfaces and then mufflers/exhaust, and then it’s time for fresh clay.



Do not over use a clay bar; your clay is done when the lubricant starts breaking down the clay and it begins to break up.

Take a 100 gm bar and divide it into 6-8 pieces (this allows you to drop a piece and not have to throw away the whole bar) A mid size car usually takes around 20-30 grams, once the clay becomes too soiled for paintwork, relegate to glass surfaces, and from there to wheel surfaces and finally discard. (See also Cleaning a Detailer’s Clay)



Will detailer’s clay remove the applied paint film surface protection?



It’s an abrasive product; the wax / sealant protection film is probably less than 0.1 µ (microns) or 0.000 004 inch) thick, clay will remove most of the paint protection product and the abrasives usually cause micro marring of the paint surface. Like finishing paper or an abrasive pad and polish it isn’t selective, it doesn’t just cause scratches where there are imbedded contaminates or surface scratches, but abrades wherever it comes into contact with the surface.



How long does the process take?



This would be dependent upon many factors, such as how well the car is maintained between detailing clay bar sessions, what type of environment is the vehicle exposed to, how contaminated the vehicle is and of course the size of the vehicle. An SUV is going to take approximately twice as long as a Mini.



A mid-sized vehicle usually around an hour to an hour and a half; I would suggest 1-2 hours is an average time for this process. Ambient temperature will affect its pliability and may affect how long the clay process takes, if it’s cold place clay in warm / hot water before use



If your goal is to remove paint contamination why would you only remove part of it?



Detailer’s clay is an abrasive, contrary to popular belief it doesn’t pull the metal particles from the paint surface it shears it, leaving a metal particle that will become a conduit for rust compromising the paint system and leaving surface rust ‘spots’ While clay and chemical cleaners are useful for cleaning the paint surface they cannot deep clean the pores of the paint, or neutralize rust blooms (‘spots’). This can be accomplished with a chemical cleaning acid and neutralization system.





Storage - detailer’s clay should be stored in a cool dry place, with a temperature in the range of 50 -75.oF. Store your clay in a plastic baggie or a plastic soap travel case. Mist the clay with a Quick Detailer (QD) Wrap each piece in wax paper to stop them sticking together, place in a plastic storage container, and close the lid or seal tightly



Alternatives to detailer’s clay



1. Detailing (Clay) Prep Towels



These surface preparation towels off an alternative to the detailer’s clay in bar form; they still require a surface lubrication but their use and care is much simpler. Using advanced rubber polymer technology fused to a Micro Fibre towel they outperforms and outlasts conventional mallable clay bars



HD NanoSkin Prepâ„¢ - towel quickly, easily and safely removes paint over spray, rail dust, brake dust, industrial pollution and other bonded contaminants from the surface of automotive paint, glass, mouldings and plastic.



These towels works well with your favourite showroom prep or clay lubricant product, the towel is easily cleaned by simply rinsing off the accumulated contaminates with water. If you drop the towel on the ground, no worries, just rinse the towel with water and you`re ready to keep using it. Plus, the towel does not require constant shaping and reshaping.



SM Arnold Speedy Surface Prep Towel - works fast and achieves professional results with the advanced polymerized rubber technology, the next generation of surface preparation. Speedy Surface Prep Towel quickly, easily and safely removes paint over-spray, rail dust, brake dust, industrial pollution and other bonded surface contaminants from the surface of automotive paint, glass, mouldings and plastic. Works with your favourite showroom prep or clay lubricant product, is easily cleaned by simply rinsing off the accumulated contaminants with water. If you drop the towel on the ground, no worries, just rinse the towel with water and you`re ready to keep using it. Plus it does not require constant shaping and reshaping 12" x 12"



OPT Optimum (watch this space)





Use only on clean, cool paint and out of direct sunlight.



• Best operation temperature range is 50°F to 99°F.

• Do not use on surfaces over 144°F otherwise the polymerized rubber surface will start to melt.

• Avoid using soap and water as a lubricant.

• Use only a showroom prep or clay lubricant to attain the best results.

• Speedy Surface Prep Towel is not solvent resistant.



Application



• Thoroughly wash vehicle prior to application.

• With your favourite showroom prep or clay lubricant, spray a generous amount onto the working surface and on the polymerized rubber surface of the Speedy Surface Prep Towel.

• Using light pressure, gently slide Speedy Surface prep Towel from side to side. When the Speedy Surface Prep Towel glides freely, the bonded surface contaminants have been removed.

• Wipe off the residual lubricant with a separate microfiber towel. Rub your hand across the surface; it should be as smooth as glass.

• Continue these steps until you have completed the entire vehicle.



Care



After each use, simply rinse the towel in warm water and ring out...no soap required.



Air-dry flat



2. Nanoskin AutoScrub pad - this is the quickest and easiest way to decontaminate and seal your paint in one easy step. After a thorough wash, using a dual action polisher, or dual action sander, a typical car can be decontaminated and sealed in 5-10 minutes. The AutoScrub pad simply Velcro’s onto your existing backing plate just like a polishing pad, and run the machine 1 or 2 passes over each area with no pressure. Use with Nano Shine sealant as a lubricant, and it will provide an extremely slick polymer sealant that will protect for 1-2 months, and provide exceptional water beading. If you want to decontaminate without adding protection use GLIDE.



3. Ultima Elastrofoam Paint Cleaning System – is a replacement for automotive detailing clay products. It removes bonded contamination from paint, glass, chrome and plastic without the abrasive effects of harsh polishes or the inconvenience of detailing clay. Quickly smoothes your paint to an ultra-slick and bright finish, preparing it for polishing and sealing.



4. Nanoskin Autoscrub 6-inch Pad System - with advanced rubber polymer technology, used with dual action orbital polisher, it safely and easily removes paint over spray, water spots, tree sap, rail dust and other bonded surface contaminants from the surface of automotive paint, glass, mouldings and plastic. Unlike the clay bar, it can be cleaned by simply rinsing off the accumulated contaminates with water. If you drop it on the ground, no worries, just rinse the sponge pad clean and you`re ready to keep using it. Easy glides allows for sturdy and controlled handling, unlike clay bars where constant reshaping is required.



5. Hi-Tech Body Spongeâ„¢ - this innovative rubber polymer product easily removes overspray, water spots, tree sap, rail dust, bugs and other bonded surface contaminants from the surface of automotive paint, glass, and mouldings and plastic, it is however an aggressive abrasive and you may need to remove surface scratches after use; it can be used with any kind of lubricant. Sponge retains soap and water and releases it as a lubricant when gently squeezed while gliding over the surface. Unlike detailer`s clay this product can be cleaned by simply rinsing off the accumulated contaminates with water or in a soap bucket. Accidentally dropping it on the ground is not a problem. Just rinse the sponge pad clean and you`re ready to keep using it. Easy grip sponge allows for sturdy and controlled handling, can be used up to 30 times before needing to be discarded.



Related Articles



1. "Detailer’s Clay vs. Decontamination" - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...amination.html



2. “What will decontamination remove that washing / clay will not?� - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...-will-not.html







[Edit: Detailing (Clay) Prep Towels para added -05.17.2012]

[CEE DOG]

Very well written article as always Jon! Thank you for your time and effort.