Wool Pads II

[togwt]

Pad Seasoning



To season a primed pad, spread the polish / compound over the pad evenly and ensure it is absorbed into the foam, and then spread that polish onto the pad by hand until it becomes (80%) saturated. To apply to the paint surface; lightly raise the back of the machine so you are working with the top 1/3 of the pad.



After polishing for a minute or two the pad will become more evenly saturated with product and actually become softer from heat build-up (seasoned). At this point, you can safely transition from a tilted up to a flat polishing position. Every time you put a fresh pad on your machine you should prime and then season it for a minute or two before "flat" polishing.



Contact Area



A pad should be designed to efficiently use its surface area. Foam pads that have lines, squares, circles, or dimples cut out of the pad face, means that is less actual surface area in contact with the paint surface. Area = π(r2) 6-inch pad area = 18.842 sq.ins (see also backing plate)



Another design parameter that determines how much surface area actually contacts the paint when using foam pads is the amount of pores per inch it features (commonly referred to as PPI). More pores, larger pores, thinner walls between the pores, or how stiff the walls are all affect how much foam contacts the paint during the buffing process



Block wet sanding (finishing paper and a sanding block) which ensures a consistent pressure over the surface contact area, this is the most effective tool for paint defect removal because of its linear process you abrade the paint surface flat until the defects are removed.





Surface Area



The distance around the circle is a circumference. The distance across the circle is the diameter (d). The radius (r) is the distance from the centre to a point on the circle. (π = 3.14), d = 2(r), c = π d = 2 (p) r, A = π(r) 2



Pad Velocity (Speed)



The larger the pad, the greater the pad velocity at an identical RPM; a smaller pad is less aggressive for the same reason V = RPM (Area) A - 6.5-inch = 20.423 sq.ins V= 24,507 inches per minute (IPM) A - 8-inch =25.136 sq.ins. V= 30,163 IPM



Pressure / Pad Compression



Depending on the types of surface abrasions you`re dealing with, increase pressure as necessary. Just remember that more pressure equals more aggressive, so be careful around ridges and raised surfaces Maintain the same pressure and work the product in, it may take three or four passes to complete before the residue can be removed. Once you see the desired results move on to the next area, or repeat the process as necessary.



The required pressure applied to obtain optimum results to adequately compress the pad (50%) and obtain uniform abrasion is usually in the range of 10 – 15 lbs. (a random orbital buffer will stall at approximately 20 pounds of applied force) To compress a 6-inch pad 50% requires you increase the total force by the ratio of its surface areas. Ratio = [π (radius2)] / [π (radius2)] = 2.25 as much force, almost 34 pounds).



With the smaller pad you`re applying the same force, at a constant speed but over a smaller, more concentrated area, which will induce friction and greater abrasion abilities to the polish, both these abilities require a certain amount of caution as it’s possible to abrasion burn the paint.



Pad Size (Area and Applied Pressure)



Smaller pads in general will offer you more control with any polisher, as it can reduce the tendency for it to skip on the paint surface. Smaller pads also make it easier to manoeuvre in tighter areas and closer to trim pieces.



Assuming equal speed, radius and compression (50% - 15 pounds of force applied) the difference between 4- inch and 6 - inch pads is their different surface area = π (r2) (4-inch = 12.46 sq.ins / 6-inch = 28.26 sq.ins) and therefore surface kinetic (or dynamic) friction applied and surface pressure applied 4-inch = 3.75 lbs per sq.ins 6-inch = 2.5 lbs per sq.ins.



Polish / Compound Application



Apply the compound or polish to the surface and spread the polish using the pad with the machine off. This coats the pad and the surface being polished with product to prevent scratching or hazing the finish, then place the pad flat on the surface and turn the machine on. Do no, under any circumstances, turn the polisher on with any portion of the pad dry, as this will produce hazing.



Most polishes are formulated by emulsifying a powdered abrasive in a carrier system (oil / solvent) the right amount of pressure / friction heat is vital to allow the polish / compound abrasives to level the paint surface and remove surface scratches / marring



Notes:

Clean and / or replace pads as often as is necessary; a clean, primed and seasoned pad will enhance the abrasive abilities of the compound / polish and make the process not only more efficient but less time consuming.

Never mix polishes on a pad and never use a pad you´ve used for compounding for polishing

Compounding, polishing and finishing are different polishing methods that do not necessarily have to be applied consecutively.

The appropriate combination of polishing steps depends on colour and quality of the coating as well as on the required finish quality desired / possible



It is important to apply adequate pressure on the polisher for the first passes over the surface. Pressure is required to cut through the swirl marks and/or surface imperfections



Kinetic (or dynamic) Friction



Kinetic friction induced heat is an often misunderstood concept of polishing / compounding; abrasives require friction to breakdown, not heat; heat is just a resultant of friction between two surfaces.



Polishing a paint surfaces transfer’s kinetic (or dynamic) friction induced heat to the paint surface, thermoplastic polymers have both tensile strength and elongation (elasticity) which allow the surface to flex, expand and contract in accordance to surrounding temperatures, solvents, resins and other ingredients in polishes will expand causing the paint film surface to expand.



As the metal substrate expands the paint moves with it, due to its elasticity, thereby becoming elongated (thinner) this is part of the cause of friction induced ‘burn’, you’re applying pressure and an abrasive to a less dense (‘thinner’) paint surface.



Pad Cleaning



All pads have a performance cycle, meaning you will get the desired results only to a certain point. That point of declining performance is typically caused by compound overload. With proper cleaning this situation can be avoided.



Wool pads must be cleaned after each use to insure a decent life expectancy, but the use of improper cleaning tools can do more harm than good. The wrong tool can cause the wool to unravel; as the tufts unravel, the pads performance is reduced.



Most car care products contain oils that serve as surface lubricants. Even if you rinse the pad immediately after using it, the oily residue remains because oil and water are not miscible. To properly clean the wool or foam pads, you need to use a cleaner that contains a degreaser (P21S Total Auto Wash).



Wool Pad Care and Cleaning



Periodically rake pad with buffing spur or air nozzle to remove excess rubbing compound or glaze. If pad becomes clogged with either polish or oxidized paint residue use a spur to remove. Washing wool pads can cause shrinkage of fibres; use only cool (60–80°F) water. Do not use hot water, strong detergents or solvents. Use washing machines with gentle agitation only. Machine drying is not recommended, air drying is preferable. (See also The Lake County (LC) System 2000 pad washer)



The fibres on a wool pad are what give wool its cutting power. But over the course of a detail job, the wool fibres become caked with polish and lose their effectiveness. You have a couple of options when this happens: stop the polisher and replace the pad with a clean one OR quickly run the Lake Country Wool Pad Spur over the pad and continue working.



Recommended Pad Cleaning Tools



Hand Washing Pads - mix a scoop of `DP Polishing Pad Rejuvenator` in 3-4 gallons of water before you begin polishing. When you`ve finished with each pad, place it in the mixture and allow soaking, a mild agitation will release the ingrained polish residue. To obtain the best results, rinse the pads and allow them to dry by placing them foam side down, thus allowing the water to drain out



The Lake County (LC) System 2000 - eliminates hand scrubbing and soaking soiled buffing pads, while the pad is still on the polisher, just insert it into the pad washer and run the polisher for several seconds. The motion of the polisher agitates the pad against the Grit Guard Insert inside the pad washer. The Grit Guard Insert removes car care products and restores the texture of the pads, and your hands stay clean. The Pad Washer works with all polishers (Porter Cable 7424, Makita, DeWalt, and Cyclo) the pad washer’s opening is adjustable to accommodate orbital and rotary machines.



Edge® Pad Conditioner - Engineered in consultation with auto-finishing pros, the Edge® Pad Conditioner answers the need for a better way to keep buffing pads in top condition. Ergonomic in-line design and angled head optimize both power and control—use right or left handed Safer long neck and angled grip keep fingers well clear of the spinning pad to prevent skinned knuckles Less fatigue ample, knurled pistol grip and thumb pad allow you to adjust hand position for comfort



Citrus Pad Cleaning Powder - specially formulated cleaning/degreasing solution keeps pad clean, soft and supple. This water soluble solution is biodegradable and comes in convenient 1.25 oz. packets.



System 2000™ Padwasher - Patented buffer powered pad washer cleans and conditions both foam and wool pads. Eliminates wool blow-off and lint in work areas, portable and easily adjustable to fit any pad/buffer combination Built to last with 1 year limited warranty works with a combination of agitation and detergent, the agitator wheels do all the work. You just hold the polisher. You’ll not only have clean pads, you’ll have clean hands. Once you’ve washed the pad, simply tilt the machine so the pad is out of the water. Continue running the polisher to remove the excess water. All the sling-off is contained within the bucket so there’s no mess.

The System comprises;

1. Main Agitator Housing – this sits inside the bucket and houses the 9 agitator wheels. You can adjust the height of the housing to suit your polisher by removing the three adjustable screws from the legs and replacing them at the desired height. The agitator housing is factory-set at 3 inches below the lid opening.



2. Lid with Closable Covers – Swing the covers open to insert the pad (while attached to the buffer). Close the covers to keep sling-off from the pad inside the bucket. At the bottom of the lid’s opening is a cradle for the polisher. Rest the polisher on this cradle when drying the pad. The lid itself is held on the bucket with two housing clamps. To remove the lid, push the clamps out and lift the lid off (avoid lifting the lid by the clamps.)



3. A five 5 Gallon container – the entire cleaning process is contained within the bucket to keep your garage, and your freshly detailed vehicle, clean.



Directions

Pour approximately 1 ounce of pad cleaning powder into the bucket and fill it with 3-4 gallons of water. The amount of water may vary according to the height of the pad cleaning plate. The water level should be about 3-4 inches below the top of the pad cleaning plate. The grey pump wheel shown in the picture brings water up to the pad. Reattach the lid.

Place the used pad (while attached to the polisher) in the opening in the lid. Close the lid covers.

Operate the polisher at a low speed while holding the pad flat against the pad cleaning plate. Set your rotary polisher to a maximum speed of 1500 to 2000 RPM. Slowly rotate the polisher as it runs.

To dry the pad, lift the pad so that it’s not resting on the agitator wheels.

Rest the polisher’s belly on the cradle on the lid. Tilt the pad slightly so it’s not touching the pad cleaning plate

Continue running the buffer for 15 seconds.

Stop the buffer before opening the covers. The pad should only be slightly damp. A few minutes in the sun will completely dry the pad



Drying wool pads



After washing, do not dry pads with high heat as this promotes wool shrinkage. Instead, let pads air dry or spin them using the buffer. Do not store damp pads. This will promote mildew.

http://www.autopia.org/forum/welcome...l?daysprune=45

[Ron Ketcham]

Nice, however I have , in over 50 years of buffing, never used anything other than a pad spur to clean while buffing and after I am done. (see cleaning tips later in my post)

That is until the spur cleaning reaches a point that a good washing is in order.

A tip or two at this point.



There are several "wool pads" that may be put to use, understanding the differences is important.

1. 100% wool 4 ply yarn pads, these are the agressive "cutting pads. No sheep died in the process of creating them, the wool is shorn off the sheep, processed and twisted into 4 plys of wool yarn, and attached to a cloth backing pad.

A. There are variations of this type of pad, including a 2 ply wool yarn, there are "blended pads of synthetic fibers and the yarn",

The "blended" are recommended for "cutting" of modern clearcoat when using a "wool" cutting pad.

The reason is that at 1750RPM or less, they are not as agressive to the clear as a pure wool cutting pad.

B. Length of the "yarn"- wool pads come in various length`s of the yarn, from 1 inch to 2 inch, however there are even longer

length available, but normally used by special industrial buffing processes. Longer the yarn, the less heat that is produced.

C. Care of these pads is as stated in the earlier post, the most important being to NOT use hot water or dry with high heat.

This wool we are talking about, and wool "shrinks" creating a more agressive, IE, shorter yarn.

D.Spurring a pad as the work is done is vital, as it cleans the pad, and extends the life of the pad.

Do not use a screw driver, chisel, etc, use a real "pad spur"!

E.To reduce the necessity of "washing" a wool pad, when the buffing process is completed, set the pad aside and allow it

to "dry", all the compounds, etc will dry, then "spur" clean the pad. This will remove over 90% of the compound, etc residue

and once again, extend the life of the pad.

E. LAMB`S WOOL PADS- These are much different than a "yarn pad", as the sheep had to die. It`s hide was removed, the hide is then treated with a chemical tanning process, which softens the hide and wool fibers, but leaving the majority of the natural lanolin oils in the hide. Once the hide is cured and dried, the natural wool fibers are "trimmed to a specified length" and the circular cut is made in the hide to produce the "lamb`s wool pad".

F. The "lamb`s wool pad", should NEVER BE WASHED", as it causes the hide to shrink and the natural oils to be removed.

The pad becomes worthless, as the hide is hard and the pad has lost it`s natural lubricating qualities.

Lamb`s wool pads are the original "polishing pad" for the automotive painting industry and are difficult to find these days,

however, well worth the cost and effort to obtain them.

A note regarding this, I have 4 ply yarn, blended yarn and lambs wool pad that have completed numerous vehicles and are still quite usable. If you follow this simple tips, you will reduce your material cost and labor a substantial amount



Pad cleaning spurs are readily available, and the brand really makes no difference as there are only two manufacturers at the present who make for all the brands under private label.



Grumpy

[togwt]

Thank`s RonK, constructive critique is encouraged as are alternative processes and product choices. Most opinions are at best subjective anyway, and there is always an opposing and often equally valid response, which should be encouraged



There is no `one correct way` to apply a product; the way detailing products are customized, are what each individual finds give them their desired results.