Bird excrement; the most damaging environmental pollutants

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Bird Excrement

Consists of [: Uric acid , C5H4N4O3 [a diprotic acid , thus in strong alkali at high pH it forms the dually charged full urate ion, but at biological pH or in the presence of carbonic acid or carbonate ions it forms the singly charged hydrogen or acid urate ion as its pKa2 is greater than the pKa1 of carbonic acid] [1]



Cause - the different types of food ingested by birds affect the composition and quantity of droppings. Chemical aggression on the paint surface is caused by strong organic acids acting for an extended period and exposed to high temperatures.



One of the most serious threats to a paint surface; it`s not only disgusting - it`s a toxic hazard. Bird excrement contains unpleasant fungi, including Histoplasma capsulatum and Cryptococcus neoformans as well as bacteria, including Chlamydophila psittaci. Migratory birds, especially seagulls are known to spread hard-to-treat infections as they can carry antibiotic-resistant bacteria.



These are known to cause pneumonias as well as systemic infections. Various forms of encephalitis are also associated with bird droppings, so avoid direct skin contact.

The white/gray stain caused by bird excrement is Uric acid, which being nearly water insoluble, exits a bird`s body in the form of crystals that look like a white paste. Its edges seem brighter and more affected compared with the interior areas, if left on the surface and is then subjected to reactivity it will result in an indentation in the surface (etching) around the periphery. These stains can often be safely removed with a chemical paint cleaner



Bird excrement is one of the most damaging environmental pollutants as they relate to automobile paint as it comprises; Ammonia and urine as white crystals of uric acid (pH 3.0 - 4.5) a small organic compound, which is produced by the breakdown of protein during digestion, and is excreted by reptiles and birds. Uric acid is also the end product of nitrogen catabolism in birds Ammonia is a mixture of nitrogen gas and hydrogen gas; with moisture as a catalyst it becomes Ammonium Hydroxide, which is caustic. Besides being very acidic, bird excrement contains enzymes, which can break down the C-C bonds of the organosilicon clear coat system



Note: some of the newer coating products rely on Si-C bonds, which are much more resistant to enzymes than the C-C bonds used in polymer sealants. Due to the applied coating thickness they are more resistant to the acids found in excrement than a polymer sealant. Notwithstanding, these acids should be removed as soon as possible



Reactivity - when you have an acid + moisture +oxygen + ozone all of which equates to a highly concentrated acidic solution, add heat to this equation, and you have the causes of pitting, a concave indentation on the paint surface. Heat and water act as a catalyst (reactivity); a vehicle paint surface temperature of >90.oF creates a very aggressive reaction of the Alkaline, Uric Acid and Ammonia. This will cause surface etching, so they should be removed without delay. In this case, paint care not only serves aesthetics, but also helps preserve the vehicles. At lower temperatures (> 40.oF or less) there’s no reactivity and therefore little or no etching.



Catalyzed hydrolytic degradation

[Definition - the damage can range from paint discoloration to the film dissolving completely. Bubbling, swelling and etching are typical phenomena]

Be cognizant that there are no polymers or waxes that are acid-proof; they all only offer short-term resistance. An applied paint protection product is the barrier that provides protection for automotive paintwork besides the clear coat paint. But be cognizant that the protection a microscopically thin layer can provide is limited. This renewable barrier is probably less than 0.1 µ (4 Mils) thick.

Note: some of the newer coating products rely on Si-C (SiO2) bonds, which are much more resistant to enzymes than the C-C (copolymer bonds used in polymer sealants. Due to the applied coating thickness they are more resistant to the acids found in excrement than a polymer sealant. Notwithstanding, these acids should be removed as soon as possible)

The most pertinent factor is to have a layer of (sacrificial) protection between the acid and your paint surface. The second is to ensure that is removed and any residue is neutralized as soon as possible. For added protection apply an organic wax over the polymer sealant, as this acts as a sacrificial barrier and by washing the vehicles paint surface plus the reapplication of the sacrificial barrier on a regular basis.



Their main food source in summer is mostly insects and seeds, in the winter/ spring it’s berries, which are very acidic, and if left for any length of time the will cause the porous clear coat to occlude (a non-transparent ‘clouded’ area) or may cause etching (a depression in the paint or glass surfaces)



Birds use gravel to help digest their food, predatory birds (owls, hawks, etc hunt and kill mice and small animals, so ground light weight bone fragments, sand and grit are some of the major components, which can cause scratching.



Avoid using a quick detailer (QD) spray or a sealant to flush residue, as they usually contain either carnauba wax or polymers, which will seal in the acid and not allow it to dissipate.



Take your time and be careful with its removal, these acids should be removed as quickly as possible. If the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated by moisture and heat.



• Limonene (citrus-based) cleaner (P21S Total Auto Wash) will both emulsify and neutralize the acid or use an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water as soon as is practical is highly recommended.

• 1:1 solution Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and distilled water. The alcohol content acts as a drying agent, which will extract the acid, then thoroughly flush with water to rinse away any grit or sand, etc or use detailers clay to encapsulate it, re-spray the area let it react for 2-3 minutes and wipe dry.

• Glass cleaner (do not use one that contains ammonia; as it acts as an acid accelerant

• Make up and aqueous solution Optimum Opti™ - Clean concentrate diluted ith1:3 with distilled water in a spray bottle.

• Gel alcohol hand cleaner (Purell®) Place a small amount on to a first aid gauze pad and apply to effected area this will help it stay in place during the necessary react time. The alcohol content acts as a drying agent, which will extract the acid, then thoroughly flush with water to rinse away any grit or sand, etc or use detailers clay to encapsulate it, re-spray the area let it react for 2-3 minutes and wipe dry.



An automobile paint system is porous; when you add moisture and heat to an acidic substance it will erode the paint system very quickly; as the heat opens microscopic fissures in the clear coat allowing ingress, the water provides a carrier system for the acid, and heat acts as a catalyst (reactivity) each time water is reintroduced the acid will be reactivated and erode the paint matrix



Identify the type of damage (Type I Surface staining or Type II Surface etching (a concave indentation)



Ultra violet (UV) infrared radiation (heat) causes the urethane clear coat to expand allowing contaminates to permeate; the same heat greatly accelerates the corrosive abilities (reactivity) of the acid, for these reasons any acid or alkali should be neutralized (See Acid / Alkali Neutralization)



Verification of the type of surface condition can be diagnosed through the use of a 30X magnifier. Any acid should be removed from the paint surface ASAP; proceed by using the least abrasive products first



Type I [is an off-white non-transparent ‘clouded’ stain] that if left for any length of time that will cause the porous clear coat to occlude (become non-transparent) this is usually inherent with a light surface stain. Providing it is removed quickly and hasn’t been subjected to reactivity (moisture and heat) this can usually be removed easily, especially if there is a sacrificial coat of wax on the paint



1. Use a chemical paint surface cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner) to remove surface stains

2. Use ValuGuard Acid Neutralizer (Step I) - diluted 1:8 neutralizes acids deposited on the paint surface and in the pores of the paint

3. Try to dissolve the surface/etched deposits trying one or more of the following;

a) Use a 2:1 or stronger solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)

b) Try a 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)

c) Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.

4. Clean the effected surface with Klasse All-In-One or Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner





Type II [is a mark with surface etching (a concave indentation) around its perimeter] this is usually the result of a stain that has been on the surface for a while and has been subjected to reactivity (the addition of moisture and heat), which produces an acid that etches the paint surface

1. Use a chemical paint surface cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner) to remove surface stains

2. Use ValuGuard Acid Neutralizer (Step I) - diluted 1:8 neutralizes acids deposited on the paint surface and in the pores of the paint

3. Use detailing clay to remove any `hard` surface granules

4. Use a machine polish (Optimum Polish or Optimum Compound) and a cutting (LC White, Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4- 5.0) to level the surface

5. For PPG CeramiClearâ„¢ Clear Coat or other hard clear coats substitute Menzerna for machine polish; PO 203 S - Power Finish

6. Use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive polish / foam pad set-up

7. Wet-sand with 2000, 2500 or 3000 grit finishing paper and polish with a finishing polish

8. Apply a paint protection



Do not scrub hardened/dried excrement residue, birds use gravel to help digest their food so grit and sand are some of the major components, which can cause scratching as it is very abrasive and will scratch the paint surface. Once it softened (re-liquefied) it enables their removal with less likelihood of damage to the paint surface Do not use on a hot paint surface (soon after driving) as this will cause streaking



Use a solution of Optimum no-rinse (ONR) diluted 1:20 / distilled water in a fine mist spray bottle) and allow to react time as this will soften debris and allow it to be removed with a mesh covered bug sponge



Protection



Klasse, Jeff Werkstatt or Duragloss #105 Total Performance Polish are all acid-based, acrylic polymer or polyethylene-acrylic o they are more resistant to acidic pollutants (acid rain, bird excrement, and etc) there is no product wax, polymer or nano coating, including CeramiClear that is acid-proof. For added protection apply an organic wax over the polymer sealant as this sacrificial barrier and by washing the vehicles paint surface on a regular basis.



Optimum Opti-Coatâ„¢ - is based on a resin pre-polymer that uses a configuration of (Si 14) (SiO2 -silica) bond, which are far more resistant to enzymes than the C-C configuration used in polymer sealants. As a consequent it is more resistant to the acids found in bird excrement. It forms ceramic bonds at very high temperatures and will not be damaged by extreme heat and therefore resists oxidation. Opti-Coat has better chemical resistance, scratch and marring resistance, and release properties than other automotive coating in use. This coating has a 2-4 µ (microns) applied thickness and a hardness of 9H (Pencil Hardness) when fully cross-linked and provides a semi-permanent (See also Car Cover Section)



Aves bomb First Aid Kit- use a 1:20 Optimum No-Rinse (ONR) / distilled water solution in a fine mist spray bottle. The surfactants it contains encapsulate and trap bird and insect excrement, dry surface dust, or light dirt particles making them virtually non-abrasive and it can be used without causing scratches (check contents periodically as heat will evaporate the contents if stored in the car’s trunk).



Apply with a long nap micro fibre towel using very little surface pressure, dusting with long strokes in one direction only. For stubborn stains, soak the micro fibre towel and allow it to remain i n place for a few minutes and then wipe away the debris.



Caution - Dispose of any towels or wipes used to remove bird droppings immediately and thoroughly wash your hands, as bird lime can harbour diseases



Avoid using a QD spray to flush residue, as they contain either carnauba wax or polymer sealants, which will seal the acid and not allow it to dissipate. Using an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water (to neutralize the acid) as soon as is practical is highly recommended, if the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated (heat and moisture). If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish (Zaino PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleanser) and then apply a paint protection.



Excrement Removal



Be cognizant that the longer the deposit remains on the bodywork and the higher the ambient temperatures, the harder the dried deposit will be, and the greater the propensity for paint damage. This type of damage can only be prevented by motorists remaining vigilant and removing the deposit as this pollutant can have a serious negative impact on your paint finish if not removed safely and expediently. Also be aware there are no polymers, nanotechnology coatings or waxes that are acid-proof; they all only offer short-term resistance although they will make them easier to remove



Use the least abrasive product first-



1. Use a paint surface cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner)

2. Try to dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral water deposits try one or more of the following;

a) Use a 2:1 or stronger solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)

b) Try a 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)

c) Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.

3. Clean the effected surface with Klasse All-In-One or Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner

4. Use detailing clay to remove any `hard` surface granules

5. Use a machine polish (Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound) and a cutting (LC White, Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4- 5.0) to level the surface

6. For CeramiClear or other hard clear coats substitute Menzerna for machine polish; Super Intensive Polish / Nano Polish (105FF) or Final Finish Polish (106FA)

7. Use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive polish / foam pad set-up

8. Wet-sand with 2000, 2500 or 3000 grit finishing paper



Bibliography



1. Alma Heritage Science – Uric acid from bird droppings



2. Effects of Environmental Conditions on Degradation of Automotive Coatings - Mohsen Mohseni, Bahram Ramezanzadeh and Hossain Yari



3. Bond Disassociation Energies in Organosilicon Compounds, a paper by Robin Walsh



4. Forum post by Dr. David Ghodussi, the founder and CEO of Optimum Polymer Technologies







Relevant Articles



1. “Acid / Alkali Neutralization� - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia...ml#post1489787



2. “Detailer’s Clay� - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia...ml#post1459468



3. “Environmental Damage� - http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-det...l-damage.html#



4. “Nanoskin Surface Prep Towel� - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia...rep-towel.html



5. “ValuGard Paint Decontamination System� - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia...on-system.html



6. “What will decontamination remove that washing / clay will not? “ - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...-will-not.html



7. “Why use a wax on top of a polymer sealant?� - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia...r-sealant.html









[Edit: 07.20.12 Opti- Coatâ„¢ paragraph added]

[Dan]

Good info!

[Bill D]

• Gel alcohol hand cleaner (Purell®) Place a small amount on to a first aid gauze pad and apply to effected area this will help it stay in place during the necessary react time. The alcohol content acts as a drying agent, which will extract the acid, then thoroughly flush with water to rinse away any grit or sand, etc or use detailers clay to encapsulate it, re-spray the area let it react for 2-3 minutes and wipe dry.

The use of the first aid gauze pads rings a loud bell to me. I first spoke of it back in 2006:

3. Here`s a long winded, but quite effective approach:



Spray the areas down with isopropyl alcohol mixed 50:50 with distilled water. Let it dwell. I even use gauze pads to hold the solution in place. From the sounds of it, you might have several on the car and it will look likes it`s getting first aid . Let it dwell for about 5 minutes. Remove the pads, spray a mixture of baking soda and water, again use some gauze pads to hold in place. Let that sit for about an equal amount of time. Now, hose off the area after lubricating it with some car wash solution mixed in a bucket or spray bottle. Never, never scrape any stubborn left overs with your fingers. Wash and dry. If there are stubborn, left over residues, try some tar remover or a clay bar. Once everything is clean, clay the area and inspect for etching. If it present, polish, by hand first, if that isn`t enough, by PC. Then, finally, reseal. ( You can re apply some sealant the next day if you wish)



Luckily, this time of year, the risk of acid etching from the droppings is pretty low.

The complete thread where this can be found : http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-det...ency-help.html

[Dan]

While I`m sure gauze pads are nice, they are expensive because they have to be sanitized. The cotton makeup pads are dirt cheap and work very well.

[Bill D]

Cotton balls can be decent too. I`ve used the cheapest no name private label gauze pads I can find.

[Ron Ketcham]

Types I and II, just do the entire ABC process, no need to go to vinegar or such. The B handles that part of the process and the C, being a non-sulfate, neutral pH wash, finishes the process of removing the bird acids.

You are then ready to start the physical repairs of the surface.

Grumpy