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  1. #1
    The Old Grey Whistle Test togwt's Avatar
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    This is another way to gain extra gloss (See also `Spit Shining)These processes are usually reserved for those who can appreciate the extra effort, and simply want their cars to look their absolute best regardless of cost



    Finessing (Jewelling)



    [: this process is given various names- Burnishing, Finessing, Jewelling and Finite paint finishing]



    Around 1950 body shops would call it jewelling because they would have to re-buff single stage paint`s a week or two after hand over to the client. . After a curing process they would have the customer bring the car back and finely burnish the surface with a finish polish that had almost no abrasive abilities and a soft wool pad, this step was referred to as ’jewelling’ to bring out a deep lustre in the paint surface.



    Most detailers associate machine polishing with removing swirls, scratches and water spots and producing a level surface, but show car owners, Concours d’élégance participants and paint renovation technicians have long known that all paint finishes, even brand new finishes, can be improved by a final paint burnishing, increasing maximum gloss by reducing microscopic abrasion scratches on the paint`s surface, which will increase the gloss of the paint.



    Finessing a paint surface is a process of reducing speed not pressure, this is the key to final polishing,; constant pressure keeps the pad uniformly compressed (50%) and ensures even contact with the surface, efficiently transferring correct machine movement to the pad combination with a longer polishing time. It is really effective with a rotary polisher and a diminishing abrasive. Be cognizant that excessive pressure will make the pad / polish combination more aggressive, this has the effect of increasing kinetic energy (friction heat) which may result in a strikethrough



    Before using this optional step the paint surface should be scratch-free, level and any holograms are removed. If the surface is polished ’flat’ it will reflect light evenly, as opposed to refracting it at high and low spots, which will increase the overall reflective optics of the paint. Once this has been accomplished the paint surface can be further finessed by using a non-abrasive ultra soft pad and a diminishing polish combination. It can sometimes take up to four hours or more finessing a paint finish if it is felt that a higher gloss is obtainable.



    Typically the final step in surface polishing; using a finishing polish (Menzerna PO 85 or PO 106FF) in tandem with a pad that has no abrasive abilities (LC CCS Gold (100 PPI) Finishing foam). By using little, but constant pressure at the beginning of the pass to help fracture the abrasives since the pad isn`t providing abrasion and an ultra fine finishing polish, for the removal of any microscopic pad abrasion, which also reduces the chance of holograms



    If the polish runs out of surface lubrication add Gloss It EVP Pad Prime is high-grade lubricating oil that greatly extends machine polishing times.




    Rotary Polisher –use slow linier movements, machine passes in single direction using medium pressure. Use a non aggressive foam pad (LC Gold 100 PPI) and start at 1500, 1200 and then reduce speed to 1000 RPM, adding a tiny bead of polish and then finally finish at 600 RPM, using moderate constant pressure. until the diminishing abrasive goes clear (somewhat similar to Vaseline®) and then make few passes at 800 / 900RPM using little to no pressure.



    By working the abrasives, so that only the finest particulates remain, these micro-fine abrasives will provide the highest obtainable gloss, without leaving any micro-marring of the paint surface.



    Larger diameter pads can be beneficial for final polishing, since they can be used longer before they load up with buffing residue. This can be the difference between a pristine finish, and one that is mildly marred with ultra-fine hazing.




    Random Orbital Polisher - use a moderately non aggressive foam pad (LC White) and firm constant pressure, set speed at about 5000 OPM (Flex 3401 using speed setting 3) until polish breaks down then reduce speed to approx. 3500 OPM and work until refined.

    Another technique when using a rotary by having your pads off- centre for an orbital style spin does work well at stopping holograms and should only be used with the jewelling process once the polish has broken down, or by using a non-diminishing polish.

    What gets overlooked too often is that one must be a student before becoming a teacher.

  2. #2

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    Re: Finessing the Finish; obtaining that extra 10%

    If you plan on Jeweling...make sure you do a Test Spot to confirm that your paint will show a visible improvement, before spending hours caressing your paint

    I often find it difficult to see any improvement when moving from Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover/White CCS to Wolfgang Finishing Glaze/Grey Pad (which is similar to SF4000)

  3. #3

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    Re: Finessing the Finish; obtaining that extra 10%

    Following along with what allenk4 posted, I sorta go the other way on this one as I often can`t discern the benefit of the additional burnishing unless I do a significant portion of the vehicle. I.e., a panel or two might give me the impression that I`m wasting my time, but doing more makes it more likely that I`ll see a subtle degree of improvement..."hey, the front half of the car looks a bit better than the back half"-kind of thing. Heh heh, gotta watch that I don`t just see what I want to see though A few times I had Accumulatorette give her opinion, without coaching her about what I was up to (and she *did* spot the diff, every time).
    Likes VitreousHumor liked this post

 

 

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