Congratulations on the purchase of your new (or new to you) vehicle. The fresh smell of leather as you enter the car, the paintwork is gleaming and waxy smooth. You might even catch yourself stealing a glance at the reflection of your pride and joy as you drive it out your house. After you have purchased a new vehicle it`s really important to protect it right from the start.



Protective Shipping Film



Remove the RapGard (shipping vinyl) protective film by the application of mild heat and carefully pulling it at a 45 degree angle; remove any adhesive from the vehicle surfaces with 3Mâ„¢ Adhesive Remover and Surface Cleaner a safe solvents that is outstanding for the removal of tar, grease, adhesive, bugs, crayon and stubborn stains on paint, contains no harmful Xylene, Benzene or Toluene.



Transit (Copolymer) Wax



Transit protection waxes used to protect paintwork, metal and glass surfaces can be removed with either P21S Total Auto Wash or 3Mâ„¢ Adhesive Remover and Surface Cleaner; both are safe solvents that are very effective for the removal of copolymer or Microcrystalline wax protective coatings from new vehicle exterior surfaces, especially imported vehicles or those standing in holding yards for extended periods



Wash



Proper washing; pre-wash, using a foam gun followed by a two bucket wash system with a GritGuard or a Foam Cannon, and drying, water sheeting and air powered drying. These techniques are the best way to avoid the need for polishing. Using a chemical paint cleanser versus polishing on a clean finish to simply remove old wax/sealant is another. And always follow the rule of using the least abrasive polish and pad combination (working smarter not harder)



Clean the vehicle in this order - roof, front hood, front fenders, doors, rear fenders, doors, rear deck lid, rear fenders, and rear of vehicle, then clean wheel surfaces, tyres, wheel fenders and finally engine compartment. This is usually a progression from the least to the most soiled areas.



Methodology



• To reduce the risk of scratching paint finish start by thoroughly rinsing the vehicle to remove loose surface dirt and grime, use a gentle spray (Ultimate Nozzle) you don`t want to cause impact abrasion to the paint surface, take your time and be careful and you`ll avoid paint damage.

• With heavily contaminated vehicles pre-treating the panel you are working on with a 2oz.per gallon ONR / distilled water solution in a spray bottle, prior to washing. This will help lift the contamination prior to touching your vehicle, helping minimize adding any imperfections to the paint.

• Apply a tar remover (Autoglym Intensive Tar Remover) on lower panels, using a soft 100% cotton cloth to avoid contaminating your wash mitt.

• Use a pH balanced pre wash treatment (Stage One PreWash) spray two – three panels and rise off with low pressure water (this will avoid spay dying and causing water spots) once the vehicle has been pre-treated rinse the entire vehicle with low pressure water.

• Use a quality car wash shampoo specifically formulated for automotive use, one that contains conditioning lubricants (Menzerna Auto Shampoo) that enable abrasive particles to rinse off without abrading the paints surface.

• Use the recommended water / car wash ratio as per manufactures label; usually this is 1-2 oz per gallon. (2-4 capfuls) Too much wash concentrate will leave a sticky film on the paint and glass surfaces that will attract dirt / dust.

• Fill two 5-gallon buckets (Grit Guard™) with warm, not hot water. One is for wash solution the other for rinsing the mitt to ensure that any abrasive dirt particles are not put into the wash solution.

• Alternative- use a Gilmour Foamaster II Foam Gun

• While the vehicle is still wet from the rinse load the sheepskin mitt with wash solution and apply to horizontal surfaces (roof, hood and trunk lid) and then thoroughly rise with hose.

• Use a separate mitt for the lower vertical surfaces as these collect more road film, pay special attention to rinsing this mitt, so ensure nothing is transferred to the other surfaces from a contaminated mitt.

• Apply wash solution to vertical surfaces and rinse thoroughly.

• Use a soft boar’s hairbrush to clean bumpers, plastic trim and all the crevices.

• While you still have a few remaining drops of water on the car, spritz it with quick detailer as you`re softly drying with your waffle weave micro fibre towel. This will help reduce friction, and also will remove any light water spots that have already started to form. You`re left with a result far better than if you just dried with towels alone

• Roll the windows down, run the waffle weave towel between the felt strips a couple slow passes, then roll up the windows and dry them off again.



New Vehicles and Detailer’s Clay



Even new cars that have been sitting on a car dealerships lot for a few weeks can accumulate contamination that bonds to the paint surface; it shouldn`t be assumed a vehicle that looks good is contamination free. Carry out the ‘Bag Test’ place some saran wrap or a zip lock bag over your hand and rub across the finish lightly. Every snag you feel is a surface contaminant that the clay bar can remove but you may not be able to see, especially on white or light colour vehicle surfaces.



Detailing clay has made a huge impact in paint finish care because it removes oxidation and allows the paint to remain healthy, longer. Applying a coating over a paint finish does not stop oxidation; it only slows it down. Using a chemical paint cleaner is better for your paint finish; because they strip away some oxidation and allow the coating to obtain a better hold (anchoring to the micro-fissures of the surface) and lasting longer to retard oxidation.



Application –To ensure adequate surface lubrication and avoid surface marring use a product that contains a surfactant to ensure that any dirt/grit / metal debris is encapsulated and held in suspension and can be rinsed away and a surface lubricant. Using distilled water solution or a quick detailer in a fine mist spray bottle provides a safety barrier that enables the clay to hydroplane across the surface. In other words, the clay is aquaplaning on a micro-thin film of lubrication between it and the paint surface removing the (protruding) surface contaminants by abrasion and encapsulation by the malleable clay.



Without lubrication the clay will abrade the paint surface much like a wet-sanding block and will produce significant fine surface marring. When you start the clay process you’ll feel resistance as you glide the clay with its lubricant, this is normal, the resistance will lessen as the contaminants are removed, once there is no more resistance you can move to the next 2 x 2-foot section



Paint Surface Decontamination



A non-marring alternative to detailing clay



IronX Soap Gel

1. Wash the paint surface with a concentrate

2. Rinse the surface thoroughly with clean water, power wash or hose

3. Pour a few small drops of soap gel onto a wet sponge, and wash the surface.

4. While agitating the surface, the soap gel will start to change colour when it comes intp contact with metallic particles

5. Rinse the surface thoroughly with clean water

6. Dry the paint surface

Average consumption per complete car: 20 - 30ml per car



Paint Cleaner



A chemical paint cleaner are designed to enhance the depth and gloss while properly preparing the paint for a sealant or wax. Sometimes paint cleaners can have micro abrasives or they can be non-abrasive. They can remove micro-marring of the surface (i.e. light towel marks) but typically will not remove imperfections that require levelling the clear coat, but can remove some oxidation and mineral deposits.



Applying a Polymer Sealant or Waxing New Paint



The most often asked question and a subject that results in a great deal of confusion regarding polishing or waxing OEM paint.

Paint curing process; new cars go through the painting and baking process without any of the rubber, plastic, and cloth components installed. This is why they can expose the cars paint to such high temperatures, these high temperatures and special paints used at the factory level ensure the paint is fully cured by the time the car leaves the assembly line.



Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) water based paint and its clear coat is cured at high temperatures; OEM paints are cured in a paint oven at around 320. °F (160. °C) for 20 minutes, in multiple oven zones where the paint is baked with radiation and convection heat so that 90-95% of the paint systems out gassing has taken place, the additional 5-10% will cure within 2-3 days and the vehicle’s paint can be waxed the moment it is rolled out of the manufacturing plant.



By not applying some sort of paint protection soon after purchase the customer is actually damaging the paint surface instead of helping it. Salesmen that advise a customer not to wax a car for 3-6 months are relying on old paint methods and are misinformed about the latest paint technology. The newer paints are catalyzed (a chemical reaction that cures the paint) lacquers and enamels needed an extensive time for the solvents to release, with modern water based paints this is not necessary.