Attention to Detail



Dependent upon your detailing goals and the areas of concern you would like to work on. You do need to understand some of the basic chemistry behind the materials and finishes used for automobiles to understand how to care for it.



Diagnosis is the key, not guess work; the most important thing to find out before you attempt to clean or care for something is to ascertain what the material finish is made from. Much the same is true if you’re trying to remove a stain, what caused the stain (Organic stains, Inorganic stains or Petroleum soils) and what is the material ( Finished or Synthetic Leather, Fabrics, Wool or Synthetic fibres) you are trying to remove the stain from.



The level of detailing is dependent upon your goals for the vehicle in question and your experience and skill level.



Most neophyte detailers with daily drivers just want a clean shiny car, detailing can go from this to concours level, where the car is judged with white gloves, or a paint renovation were a paint surface is subjected to a 90%+ correction by a professional.



Formulate a detailing plan that is in line with the goals you have for the vehicle, and then utilize proper techniques, combined with quality products will make for a successful outcome.



“God is the details” and it’s often the small things that make the difference between a good detailer and an outstanding one. Once your paint is polished and protected look to the finer details; wheel wells, brake callipers, wheel lug nuts, glass surfaces, tyres and the exhaust tips and the interior: brake pedals, control knobs, instrument cluster, door kick-plates, seatbelts, buckles and retractors.



Detailing equates to- combining detailing knowledge, experience, and applicable chemistry; balanced to provide aesthetics. A detailer combines chemicals, equipment as well as knowledge of the materials used in automotive manufacturing (vehicle surfaces).



Chemicals- refers to the cleaning and protection products used, ‘equipment,’ refers to the tools used, for example, random orbital polishers, high-speed rotary polishers, extractors and power washers, to name but a few.



Vehicle surfaces - require a basic understanding of chemistry and how to rejuvenate and protect each of the many and varied material surfaces, regardless of its specific surface composition making objective observations based upon experience, the results obtained, and adjusting the techniques and products used as necessary.



Detailing also takes a willingness to experiment, which usually means deviating from the product manufacturers directions, making objectives observations based upon experience and adjusting the techniques used as necessary, always keeping an open mind on manufacturer’s claims for their products.



The Cardinal Rules of Detailing



1. Use and understand Protection from Potential Health Hazards, work safe. As in all things, allow common sense to prevail and proceed with due caution



2. Surface preparation is the most important step to achieving e a flawless finish The final result can only be as good as the surface it’s applied to; so surface preparation is of paramount importance. Any car care product to work the way its intended must be applied to a properly prepared, clean surface.



3. Be patient when travelling through the learning curves; as some are steeper than others



4. It cannot be emphasized enough ‘Apply products very sparingly’ Ease of product removal is inversely proportional to the amount used



5. Providing the cleaning product selected is suitable, apply product to an applicator not the area to be cleaned (the only exception to this is glass surface cleaning) apply several drops of the selected cleaning solution in an inconspicuous area and rub gently with a clean, white micro fibre towel.



6. Always choose the least intrusive product first, it is preferable to polish 2-3 times to restore the paint film surface than to use an unnecessarily abrasive machine polish / foam pad combination.



7. Diagnosis is the key, not guess work. Before using a cleaning product a detailer needs to know the material they are working on, what they are trying to remove and wither the product chosen is compatible with the material and will not damage it. With all cleaning products, always test a small, inconspicuous area first to ensure it won`t discolour or stain the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material. As can be seen stain removal requires some knowledge of basic chemistry.



8. It is important to read and understand the MSDS, process specification, and technical data sheet before working with strong acids or high alkaline products.



9. Build up as much detailing knowledge as possible, learn the correct application methods and pick your products wisely.



10. Proper washing and paint surface drying, these techniques are the best way to avoid the need for polishing.





11. Become educated on what different materials are used in vehicles and how to tell the differences between them



12. Before using a cleaning product a detailer needs to know the material they are working on, what they are trying to remove and wither the product chosen is compatible with the material and will not damage it.



13. After checking the pH value of the cleaner , always carry out a pre-test spot procedures before using a cleaning product



14. Always select a chemical / cleaner that are biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to use by observing any precautions recommended so that they won’t harm you, your vehicle or the environment



A few thoughts

• Invest in a proper machine polisher to get the most out of your time and effort.

• Be very mindful of your washing/drying techniques and media.

• Be ready to allocate a lot of time to keep your vehicle in top shape.



What should a neophyte do to become a good detailer?



Neophyte [: a novice; a beginner in anything]



Research - first research the topic of car care and formulate a detailing plan and action it A lot of neophyte detailers just take action and if they make a mistake, they then do research



A good way to start is by doing your own research and reading for more in-depth answers to get a fundamental understanding of WHAT works and WHY it works and a products correct method of application. You’ll be surprised and the amount of useful information that can be gained by just doing simple research



Understanding what products are, what they`re designed to do, how they`re designed to be used, and the best ways to use them will not only give you better results, it`ll save you money as will be purchasing products that have been proven to do what they say they will



Detailing is both "Art and Science." The science includes such elements as chemicals, equipment, and knowledge of vehicle surfaces, industry standards, and customer requirements. The art of detailing is the activity of combining these elements into products and their proper application methodologies that produce an aesthetically pleasing outcome for each specific situation.



Become educated on what different materials are used in vehicles and how to tell the differences between them. Learn about different car care products and how to apply them.



There are major differences in the proper care of different finishes, i.e. single stage paint as opposed a paint system with a clear coat, clear coated wheels as opposed to unfinished, polished wheel surfaces, leather upholstery that has a polyurethane covering as opposed to an unfinished, natural leather



Become active on an Internet detailing forum as they discuss detailing products and their proper application methodology Read and seek opinions of experienced detailers, there is no ‘dumb question’ forum contributors are usually more than glad to help answering questions.



Always remembering to research others opinions and products, test them and then make an objective decision based upon factual information not marketing hype or brand loyalty. I have always thought that the more facts and information you have at hand the easier it is to judge what information you are being given. After all, how can you fully understand and properly use any product unless you have all the facts? In the final analysis; it’s your vehicle, your hard earned money and your choice.



Detailing relies on the correct preparation procedures and the correct methodology to obtain pristine results. Methodology and technique constitute 95%; the reasoning behind the choice of quality products is to eliminate any limiting factors, thus enabling you to place emphasis on technique used.



Focusing on one person’s methodologies or the products they use will seriously limit your detailing experience and knowledge. Most importantly - choose carefully whose advice you listen to, and more importantly what advice you act upon. The misinformation and myths that are so prevalent in the detail industry is the reason that detailers need to do research on their own. I would strongly suggest that you verify any information anyone else shares with you.



Car care chemicals are the most misunderstood component auto detailing, they should work on their real merits, not ‘smoke and mirrors`. Proceed with this in mind; the products you use constitute a very small factor in the equation.



Learn how to find and read material data sheets (MSDS) the information included aids in the selection of safe products, helping you understand the potential health and physical hazards of a chemical and describes how to respond effectively to exposure situations. Learn how to identify and what is needed to protect you from health hazards and how to work safely





A detailer should be able to answer these questions; what are your procedures for the removal of the following-



1. ‘Water spot’ damage

2. Sintered rail or brake dust

3. Carpet cleaning and what equipment, tools and chemicals do you use?

4. Can you name the various types of leather, the properties of each and what leather is most commonly used in automobiles?

5. Glass surfaces (how can you determine the location of any streaking)

6. Removal of bird excrement and tar spots



Detailing Product Lines



Both Meguiar’s and Adam`s car products has some great information resources. They produce DVD How-To on both their websites and on YouTube showing you how to use their products. Adam’s color codes everything; so that the green pad goes with the green product, orange with orange, etc. Optimum Technologies also has a car care range that is neophyte friendly and very easy to use



Online Detailing Training



For those of you that are interested in learning how to detail like a pro, we are now offering a variety of online detailing classes featuring Mike Phillips. These online detailing classes are great because they allow you to learn at your convenience, in the comfort of your own home. Mike Phillips will teach you how to restore aluminium, clay your vehicle, and polish our swirls and scratches using a variety of machines. Each instructional video goes in-depth with each product and the machines used.



These comprehensive how-to videos are the next best thing to being at one of our detailing classes here at our headquarters in Stuart Florida. With each video purchase you have 30 days of unlimited viewing and there is a discount with the purchase of multiple videos



How Temperature affect Detailing



Detailing products should be applied to a cool dry surface out of direct sunlight (actual surface temperature of the vehicle) ideal range between 50 (10.oC) and 80.oF (26.oC)



The other climate related condition that should be avoided when applying car care products is direct sunlight, as this will dramatically increase the surface temperature compared to ambient temperatures causing the product to dry prematurely and may render it ineffective.



• Surface Temperature- (actual surface temperature of the vehicle) between 50 (10.oC) and 80.oF (26.oC) products will work well within a much broader temperature range, i.e. 45. F to 90. F (4.5-32.oC) but at 45 degrees it will take much longer to dry, perhaps as much as two to three hours) but the best results will be achieved in the 60 to 70 F (15-21.oC) range. The carrier system used for waxes is a solvent, while polishes (and waxes) use oils for surface lubrication. At higher surface temperatures they evaporate allowing products to dry out and start to solidify



• Products - most detailing products contain solvents that if used on a hot surface will flash (evaporate) and will negatively affect the product used.



• Surface Lubrication - the oils and waxes used in polishes to provide surface lubrication will evaporate, leading to dry buffing and surface scratches



• Polishing / Compounding - kinetic friction induced heat can cause a rapid temperature rise; (i.e. initial surface temp 80.oF, friction heat attained with the polisher stationary and a cutting foam pad at 1,100 RPM for approx. ten seconds the friction induced heat attained would be around 104.oF) the paint temperature can be checked by utilizing an instant read-out infra-red ‘gun type’ digital thermometer, paint surface ‘spot’ temperature should be limited to 110.oF <



In accordance with the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) a localized (spot) temperature of > 115.oF will cause the urethane clear coat to soften and the foam pad will cause scratching that is forced deep into the clear coat. (See also the first law of thermodynamics et al)



• Car Washing - a hot surface temperature will cause the car wash concentrates to dry out and when rinsing the surface will cause rapid drying , which will leave water spots



• Thermal Shock - using cold water on hot metal will cause heat stress, which will lead to the metal deforming, cracking and failure (rotors, engine parts) once they are warped the brakes cannot work, thermal shock could also cause the engine block structurally fail. The same principle applies to hot water on a cold surface (i.e. defrosting ice from a windscreen)



• Cold ambient temperatures (< 40.F ) - water- based products (polish, wax, fabric cleaners, etc) will be negatively affected at lower temps i.e. some polishes use wax as a lubricant, which will solidify during lower temp conditions, causing the polish to `clump` and become unworkable



Dilution Ratio:



Dilution rates are shown as a ratio i.e. a solution of distilled water / Woolite 5:1, this means that the product is diluted five parts distilled water to one part Woolite. If you have a container with dilution markings fill the bottle with water to the dilution level required and then add product to the fill line.



First convert the ratio into fractions, add the two numbers of the ratio together then use that number as a denominator for the individual parts, multiply total amount of solution you want by the fraction.



Example- distilled water / product solution with a dilution ratio of 5:1 in a 16oz spray bottle

Water at 5:1 ratio) 5 + 1 = 6 Water =16 x 5 / 6 = 16 (0.833) = 13.33 = 13.25, 16 – 13.25 = 2.75 oz

Final Product Solution - at 5:1 ratio) 16 – 13.25 = 2.75 oz. Product at 20:1 ratio) 16–15.23 = 0.75 oz



Product Application



The main priority is to ascertain the material you are trying to clean and then select a chemical that is compatible to clean it with. Do not use the product if it adversely changes the material’s colour or texture.Providing the cleaning product selected is suitable, apply product to an applicator not the area to be cleaned (the only exception to this is glass surface cleaning)



What is equally important with any towel is the way they are used; they need to be turned frequently, and don’t apply too much pressure, especially at the edges. Fold the towel in half, then in half again, using very little downward pressure, gently wipe the surface and then flip the towel to a clean surface and wipe again. When you see the towel start to show a line of dirt, flip it around and use a different, clean section.



With it folded properly you`ll get a couple of first wipe / second wipe sections out of it. It usually takes 4 or 5 towels to wipe down an average vehicle. When you are ready to clean them, rinse well, re-wash and leave to air-dry (See Micro Fibre Washing / Care)



Nascent polisher users



1. Porter-Cable PC7424XP

2. 5" DA Flexible Backing Plate

3. Meguire’s Microfiber Cutting Discs

4. Lake County (LC) Green Polishing Pads

5. LC Black Polishing Pads

6. Meguire’s D300 Compound

7. Menzerna S100 Fast Gloss

8. PO203 Power Finish

9. PO106FA Super Finish or PO 85 RD



Should be all you need to meet any paint surface polishing needs



A wax or sealant can only reflect the finish it’s applied to, paint gets its shine from polish, which also removes surfaces scratches and its gloss comes from a wax. If you apply a wax or sealant to a dirty or scratched surface it will only magnify its faults



• Remove all rings, watches, bracelets, belts and other items that will scratch your paint.

• Ensure a clean surface before polishing, wash, clay and then use a chemical paint cleaner

• Be very patient; strive for but don’t expect instant professional results, it takes practice.

• Use tape to protect any areas that you don’t want polish residue in

• Use quality inspection (Brinkman) / general task lighting (dual 500w halogen setup)

• Use a damp (not wet) pad by soaking in water and then squeezing in a towel. This will help in using less product and by keeping the pad moist, prevent dusting.

• Do a ‘test panel’ and then use the correct pad / polish combination to remove the surface defects

• The Optimum or Prima line of polishes have a good working time and are ideal for inexperienced machine polishers

• Always ensure that you start / stop the machine while it’s on the paint surface

• Don`t over use polish; start with an X or a circle on the outside of the foam.

• After the first panel use 2 or 3 pea sized drops for each polishing area

• Limit your polishing area to 12 x 12-inch, a smaller area will allow the lubricants in the polish to fully work and protect from dry-buffing, once you are more accustomed to using to using a machine polisher you can increase this area to 18 x 18-inch

• Use a polishing pad utilizing a soft less dense foam (70 PPI) i.e. LC White with a light abrasive cutting action for the application of micro-fine polishes

• Overlap each polishing area to ensure complete coverage

• Move the across the surface at about 2-inch per second (this is very slow but a good novice practice speed)

• Apply enough pressure on the machine to compress the pad 50% (this equates to approx 15 Lbs) if you’re not sure apply pressure until the machine almost stalls and then back-off a little

• Use a 1:1 isopropyl alcohol / distilled water wipe-down to inspect your work.



Machine Polishing by Dual Action Polisher, Dave KG - Machine Polishing by Dual Action Polisher - Full Guide - - Detailing World -



Backing Plate



The type (design) of backing plate is even more important than most detailer’s realize, one size or type doesn’t fit all, as an incorrect choice can cause overheating, contribute to swirls, compromise a pad, or add to its durability or help it to stay cooler. A flexible backing plates helps with the contours of the vehicle, whereas a stiffer design helps to remove scratches from large flat areas



The backing plate directly transfers the kinetic friction (energy) of the machine to the paint surface via the pad. The foam pad will absorb the amount of orbital movement produced by the machine polisher unless sufficient pressure is applied to compress the pad (to approx 50%). Using a properly sized backing plate allows for the equal distribution of pressure across the entire face area of the pad; making it more efficient; as a backing plate only compresses the area of the pad that is directly underneath it.



Foam Pad:



Lace County Constant Pressure™ Foam Pads have a layer of engineered, instant rebound foam between the pad and the backing plate.

This layer acts as a cushion or shock absorber between the machine, the operator and the surface being worked on. It absorbs off-axis motion while maintaining a constant and uniform pressure on the surface; Lake County Constant Pressure™" technology allows even a neophyte detailer to achieve professional-like results.



Polishes:



Optimum Polymer Products polishes are suitable for neophyte detailers - Optimum Hyper Polish is spray-able polish; by spraying the polish onto a buffing pad, you can effectively prime the entire pad with a minimal amount of product. Therefore you are using the entire pad to polish the paint and achieve better results in less time than a conventional polish.



Like all polishes it is ‘pad dependent’ that is to say it acts as a light compound with a cutting pad and as a finishing polish with a finishing pad. It works quickly to remove (not hide) swirl marks, scratches, and other blemishes, and has excellent workability on painted surfaces and will not clog buffing pads. Aggressive enough for paint correction and swirl removal, yet the shine, clarity, and gloss of the paint left behind requires only final protection.





Hand Polishing



Will require patience and a lot of ‘elbow grease’ but in some circumstances adequate results can be obtained



Hand polishing is necessary around door handles, especially those that are recessed, around badges and emblems and around trim and panel edges, once masking tape has been removed and water drainage channel in trunk and hood.



The application of detailing products with a random orbital has the advantage of ensuring an even consistent pressure and contact speed, mimicking free hand motion but at a far greater pace and a greatly reduced physical effort. By allowing the weight and the random motion of the machine do the work, thus ensuring that the product is applied in a thin even layer, and will allow products to get embedded deeper into the paint film surface`s porosity.



As a caveat I would say that very little correction can be accomplished by hand polishing, this is especially true with dense (hard) clear coat finishes like CeramiClear. If you are going to polish a large area by hand use a non-diminishing polish as they only require pressure, whereas diminishing abrasives require both kinetic energy (friction) and consistent pressure, which hand polishing cannot maintain over a long period of time.



Plus you’re going to feel numb for a week if you try and polish an entire car by hand. What can be accomplished however is with the use of an abrasive all-in-one type product to remove defects such as surface water spots, oxidation, etc.



Autoglym`s Super Resin Polish (especially suited to older ‘soft’ paint); a polish, glaze, and a synthetic wax in one easy to use, gentle formula, for the removal of oxidation and light surface marks, and it will also `fill` in some of the deeper marks, creating a visually stunning appearance.

I don’t vilify products that contain fillers; especially in a situation where you have thin paint and when working by hand, they can be a great assistance to improving the look of the finish



Z-PC™ Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner Swirl Remover- a finishing polish that safely removes minor scratches, swirls, oxidation, wax build-up and other blemishes with fused tri-particulate, diminishing abrasive system



G|Techniq P1 Nanocomposite Polish - for normal paintwork correction P1 produces great finishes both by machine and by hand. For best and fastest results removes scratches and swirls safely and quickly without leaving holograms.



You might think that because most hand polishes contain a high percentage of fillers, P1 would be an also-ran if used by hand. In fact the opposite is true. Even we didn`t expect P1 to be a strong performer when used by hand but when we tested it against products widely regarded as the best hand polishes. Furthermore because P1 doesn`t use fillers your new finish that also used a lot of elbow grease won`t deteriorate. However for fastest and for best results we recommend a rotary



Iz Einszett Paint Polish- will bring the dullest finishes back to life with a lack of effort that will surprise you.



Meguiar’s ScratchX 2.0- for isolated scratch and scuff removal, this new formula has been specifically developed for hand application to quickly remove isolated scratches, fingernail marks, paint transfer and parking lot scuffs. Unique micro-abrasives correct these defects fast



Meguiar`s Ultimate Compound - don’t be put off by the name compound, this polish offers sufficient abrasiveness for hand application and finishes down well

.

Product application: use a soft foam applicator and work a small section (18 x 18 –inch) working the product into paint. This will provide the paint with a deep high gloss



CCS Euro Foam Polish Applicators - are available in three grades; White is for general polishing, Orange - used to remove light to moderate swirls, Red - designed specifically for the application of waxes, sealants, and glazes and has no cut or cleaning ability.



These foam pads allow you to match polishes to the appropriate foam variety, just as you’d do if you were applying the products with a polisher. Now you can get better results by hand because the applicator is enhancing the performance of the product.





Caring for your Vehicle



Finding a proper washing and drying technique will help to avoid constantly correcting those paint defects. It should go without saying that if you care about preserving your new car’s look at all, you don’t take your car to an automated car wash with huge brush rollers. And you don’t let some kids in a high school fund raiser wash your car. Just give them a contribution for their cause and they’ll be just as happy.



And you don’t let so-called professionals using a hand-car-wash technique wash it either – especially those hired by a dealership or a service centre. These people use the same soap bucket from car to car and haven’t the slightest clue about proper car washing techniques. Same thing goes for high-school fund raiser`s, just give them the money and drive on, they won`t be offended



A specific regime for car care is obviously on an as needed basis and will be dependent upon local climatic conditions, but a typical cleaning / care schedule might be-



Exterior

Wash –bi-weekly

Chemical clean – twice annually

Detailer’s clay – every nine months

Decontamination - annually

Wax – four times annually

Wheel surfaces – bi-weekly

Sealants – every two years

Polish paint - annually



Interior

Vacuum and Wipe down surfaces - bi-weekly

Protection product application – monthly



Complete detail

Interior and Exterior – annually





Grit Guard Insert Dual Bucket Washing System



Ironically, washing your vehicle can actually damage the paint finish because grit in the wash brush or mitt can leave scratches in the paint film surface, but with a Grit Guard in place at the bottom of the rinse bucket, you simply rub the wash media across the grid type surface to remove any damaging grit.



The professional way to wash any vehicle and avoid surface scratches is by using one bucket to wash and the other to rinse the wash media, doubling your protection against washing induced paint surface swirl marks and scratches.



Essentially the two bucket washing process provides one bucket that holds sufficient carwash concentrate, one that is formulated with surfactants that encapsulate and lift any grit particles, storing them in the fibres of the washing media to be rinsed off in the Grit Guard bucket, thus allowing any debris to be dislodged and float down to the bottom to be safely stored, so it’s no longer in the solution ensuring grit-free washing media.



Water Sheeting and Paint surface Drying



Sheet the water by using a gentle flow of water direct from the hose (without a water nozzle) starting from the top downwards, and then use a water blade on the glass surfaces. Remove the water from the paint surfaces with a blower, again from the top downwards and then finish off with a waffle weave towel and a drying aid (Dodo Juice -Time to Dry) diluted 1:1 with distilled water



Long-term paint care



1. Wash - regular washing (weekly) using a correct methodology, quality car wash concentrate, wash mitt and drying towels

2. Decontamination - remove acidic contaminants (bird or insect excrement, brake or rail dust, etc) as soon as possible

3. Detailer’s clay - clean paint twice a year (or as necessary) to remove acidic contaminants; brake or rail dust, etc

4. Paint cleaner - clean paint twice a year (or as necessary) to remove surface contaminates

5. Polish – paint surface 3-4 times (or as required) to remove surface scratches and marring

6. Paint protection – apply 3-4 times a year with a quality paint sealant and / or wax.



These techniques are the best way to avoid the need for polishing. Proper washing and drying techniques, using a chemical paint cleanser versus polishing on a clean finish to simply remove old wax/sealant is another. And always follow the rule of using the least abrasive polish and pad combination (working smarter not harder)



Proper washing; use a two bucket wash system with a GritGuard, use separate wash media and bucket for your wheels and the paint and when drying use water sheeting and / or air powered drying and a waffle weave micro fibre towel



Proper surface drying; this is my preferred method of drying a vehicle paint surface; On the final rinse of the washing process remove the nozzle from the hose, reduce the water pressure and hold the end of the hose parallel to the paint and reasonably close as this is will prevent splashing as you flood the surface. Follow up with a waffle weave micro fibre towel to thoroughly dry the paint surface



The use of any abrasive polish on automotive paintwork should always be restricted to the correction of specific problems such as scratches or oxidation. Automotive clear coat is extremely thin and every time the surface is renovated using abrasive compounds some of the clear coat is removed.



Most original finishes are tougher on the outer surface than the underneath layers. The outer layer should therefore be preserved as far as possible.



I would strongly recommend that you always try a chemical paint cleaner (abrasive or non-abrasive) before you consider polishing the paint surface as it may rectify your problem without undue paint removal.



Definition of Polishes and Protective Coatings



• Finishing Paper - an ultra-fine grade of grit (sand) paper (1500 to 3000 grit) can be used effectively to level a paint finish and remove imperfections. When talking about "grit" is a reference to the number of abrasive particles per inch of finishing paper



• Compound – an aggressive grade of polish used to remove deeper scratches and for paint renovation



• Polish – an abrasive compound that removes scratches and provides shine and prepares it for a wax or sealant protection.



• Detailer’s Clay - removes paint surface contaminants i.e. it abrades the top section of an iron particle (brake dust)



• Paint Cleaner – contains a very mild polishing agent (i.e. Kaolin (China clay) or Diatomaceous earth ) that is used to clean a paint surface and provide protection, but they will not remove ingrained surface scratches



• Glaze – used by detailers for show car to obtain maximum light reflection. They produce a “wet" look to the surface with oils to maximize surface gloss and may contain fillers (Kaolin or China clay) to hide minor defects not removed by polishing or for use when the paint is thin and you don`t want to remove any more, even if it is microns. They will provide little if any surface protection.



• Wax – an organic or synthetic protective coating that is applied to the exterior surface of an automobile to improve shine and prevent oxidation



• Sealant – a polymer sealant comprises an open linked molecule, which forms a bond with the paint, this is the main reason for their durability; these open linked polymer molecules join together to create an elongated mesh like effect that reflects light efficiently due to their inherent flat surface. Because they are usually very transparent they transmit the surface colour faithfully, but they have very little depth resulting in what is perceived as a very bright, flat silver glow





Interior

1. Vacuum dash, seats

2. Wipe down with a damp micro fibre towel

3. Brush carpets with a stiff brush and then vacuum

4. Clean all glass surfaces before applying any protection type products

5. Clean door jambs and door shuts.



Exterior

1. Wash to remove road dirt / debris

2. Detailer’s Clay removes surface contaminants( clay is an abrasive product, you may need to polish to remove micro marring)

3. Paint Decontamination, to remove ferrous metal particles (caused by brake ‘dust’ from pads)

4. Paint cleaner (removes environmental surface stains and debris (oxidation, tar, bird excrement stains, etc))

5. Polish (remove scratches and micro marring)

6. Apply protection (Wax and / or Sealant)

7. Clean wheel’ s and tyres

8. Detail engine bay



Start with the basic products:



• Car wash soap

• Clay bar

• Mild (MILD!) polish

• Wax or Sealant

• MF or Sheepskin wash mitt

• MF towels, including WW drying towels

• Quick Detailer

• Applicator pads (MF or foam)

• Glass cleaner

• Rubber/vinyl protectant



Exterior



1. Wheels prepped with a non-acid wheel cleaner and cleaned up with various brushes

2. Tyres washed and cleaned

3. Wheel wells washed and rinsed

4. Door jambs and water channels cleaned, door shuts greased

5. Detailer’s clay process

6. Paint inspected and measured

7. Wheel wells cleaned and dressed

8. Tires dressed with a water-based dressing



Paint polishing



1. Masking trim pieces (cover tyres and soft top)

2. 1, 2 or 3 Step Paint correction

3. Isopropyl alcohol wipe down process

4. Paint surface Inspection with Fenix, 3m Sun Gun, Infratech, and / or natural sunlight

5. Paint surface protection applied

6. Rubber and vinyl treated

7. Exterior windows and mirrors cleaned and sealed

8. Exhaust tips cleaned



Foam Pad Starter kit



• (1) CCS Orange 5.5 -inch Light Cutting Foam Pad

• (2) CCS White 5.5 -inch Polishing Foam Pad

• (2) CCS Black 5.5 -inch Finishing Foam Pad

• (1) CCS Blue 5.5 - inch Finessing Foam Pad

• (1) LC Flexible Backing Plate



The above foam pads are from Lake County Manufacturing Inc. There is no standardization for the colours used to identify the abrasiveness of foam pads; as a consequence manufacturers adopt their own system of colours, which can lead to confusion





Notes



1. Machine polish; always start with the least aggressive polish / pad combination required to remove scratches

2. As long as you have an understanding of what each step does you can alter the sequence or omit steps in the sequence to suit paints condition / needs

3. A polish that contains oils should be cleaned with a 1:1 solution of Isopropyl alcohol / distilled water before the application of a polymer (oils will not affect the setting-up of a Carnauba wax)

4. You cannot apply a polymer over a Glaze or a Carnauba wax due to bonding incompatibility

5. Carnauba wax will bond to a cross-linked polymer; conversely if a polymer is applied on top of Carnauba wax the polymer cross-linking / bonding may be compromised.

6. Although I would not state categorically that a product that is formulated with oils will abort the cross-linking or bonding process of a polymer just that the process may not be as complete, and its strength and durability may be adversely affected

Polishing without a machine



Ensure you are working on a clean (washed to remove dirt and road grime) and clayed (to remove surface contaminants) as necessary



• Dispense two pea sized drops in the centre of the foam hand applicator pad

• Select a 12" x 12" section of a panel as your working area

• Using as little pressure as possible spread the polish evenly in your working area

• Use a medium pressure to work the polish into the paint using overlapping motions

• Continue working the product into the paint until the polish on the paint turns to a clear milky haze

• Using a clean microfiber towel, remove the broken down polish from the paint

• Assess your paint surface with an inspection light to ensure you have achieved the results you were looking for

• Repeat steps 1 through 7 until the entire vehicle has been polished



Note: Your results will be limited by polishing by hand as compared to a machine application.. The amount of energy you need to exert to break down a polish and the time involved typically is far in excess to that of machine application



Detailer’s Clay



Automotive clay is not a replacement for polish or a compound; it is a pliable, petroleum resin product, containing a mild abrasive that polishes and exfoliates bonded surface contaminants by shearing (a popular misconception - it does not pull or extract contaminants from a paint surface, if this was the case there would be no need for it to be abrasive) it is then encapsulated by the clay resin. These abrasives are extremely small with an average particle size of 1- (micron) dependent on the aggressiveness required, mixed in with a powdered synthetic detergent.



The clay bar may not totally remove rail dust, but it will exfoliate the protruding particles. It will, however, easily remove surface contaminants i.e. tree sap or paint over-spray. Usually only the horizontal paint surfaces require detailer’s clay treatment, as it is these surfaces that contaminants tend to land on and adhere too, you should evaluate any vertical surfaces and if need be, clay them.



It can be argued that a polish or compound will do the same thing; problem is that they not necessarily remove surface contaminates but just ‘round-off’ the edges, whereas clay will remove the surface contaminants and a percentage of the applied wax /polymer.



1. Ultra Fine Clay Bar – this clay is very soft and pliable, with very light abrasion abilities. Used for new cars, very light surface contamination or as a ‘regular’ use clay



2. Fine Grade Clay – this is the average abrasion clay that most detailer’s use for everyday vehicles that have the normal accumulation of surface contamination



3. Medium Grade Clay Bar – this grade has more abrasive ability to deal with really stubborn surface contaminants. It removes excessive road tar, paint overspray, etc but it`s more likely to mar the paint so polishing afterward is highly recommended.



Dilution of Products



A solution ratio one to ten (shown as 1:10) means one part product for every ten parts (distilled) water (i.e. 1 part ONR mixed with 20 parts distilled water)



Chemical Paint Cleaners



For a pristine paint film surface after the application of detailer’s clay use a paint cleaner , or to remove light paint surface oxidation; to ensure the surface is clean and the sub-surface is free of any grease or other residue, ensuring a clean surface will also avoid pad becoming contaminated and / or clogged prior to polishing



Polish / Compound



The most common abrasive used is silica, which is much, much harder than aluminium oxide; however, many formulators are also using aluminium oxide. Most good compounds and polishes contain diminishing abrasives and are a combination of both silica and aluminium oxide. Think of them as liquid sandpaper, they are formulated with a lubricant, solvents, water and abrasive 0.3 –0.4 micron minerals, all in an emulsion that diminishes with friction, buffered or cushioned in a lubricating oil film, usually in a semi-liquid paste.



Most quality compounds are a combination of both silica and aluminium oxide. Some very abrasive compound polishes don’t feel abrasive to the touch because the particles are formulated in a water-in-oil emulsion and are not released without friction-heat.



The paint film surface also requires occasional polishing to maintain a pristine paint film surface and to ensure that any accumulated microscopic contamination in the paint surface crevices does not cause paint staining and that this dirt is not sealed into the paint by the application of wax or sealant.



The use of abrasive type polish / cleaners should always be restricted to specific problems. Most original paint finishes are tougher on the outer surface than the layers underneath. The outer layer (which contains the paints UVR protection) should be preserved as far as possible.



Using a moderate to light polish; and utilizing a rotary polisher will remove approximately 0.000025 - inches (0.635 Microns) from the paint surface (they are many variables such as polish/compound and speed / pressure used that may affect the paint removed)



Polishing removes minor blemishes, surface scratches, swirl marks and water marks with an abrasive machine polish or compound to provide a level surface. A machine polish should remove surface imperfections and swirl marks, contain oils for lubrication and should not leave residue that requires extensive ‘clean-up’ to remove hazing, its solvents should evaporate moderately quickly without leaving excess wax/oils behind, and lastly should buff relatively easily



Polishes have a grit number - that is to say the scratches they will remove after using grit finishing paper (i.e. 2500 grit polish will remove the marks left after using 2500 grit finishing paper) Remember the flatter and more uniform you make the paint surface, the greater the light reflection (shine).



Difference between Diminishing and Standard Abrasive Polishes - While the majority of polishes on the market use a form of diminishing abrasive , which you polish to a ‘haze’ (when a polish "flashes" from a liquid paste to a light semi-dry haze) the diminishing polish has then broken down and is ready for removal. It is important to know when a polish has broken down because if you take it too far you will re-introduce surface marring. Some products use standard cutting abrasive that provides a constant cutting action throughout the polishing process.



Unlike diminishing abrasives, which require time and friction to enable the abrasives to `break-down to obtain the best possible finish (and avoid holograms) standard abrasive polishes should be used with a cutting foam or wool pad to remove surface defect, and then switch to a polishing pad to finish. Polish until he defects are removed (1200 – 1500 RPM) but do not allow the polish to completely dry (as this will also produce holograms) towel and clean the surface



Polish and Foam Pad Combination – Optimum (OPT) polishes and Lake County CCS pads are a good combination for the neophyte detailer

Orbital Buffer or Rotary Polisher



There is a place for both a random orbital buffer and a high speed polisher in a detailer’s toolkit, once you are proficient with an orbital all that is required to ‘step-up` to the polisher is practice, practice and then more practice, which should be done on a scrap vehicle panel as opposed to your own or someone else’s vehicle



Sometimes a dual-action polisher just isn’t enough for really tough scratches and swirls. You need the cutting power of a rotary polisher to penetrate the clear coat and smooth over rough edges to restore your paint to its original flawless finish.



Scale 1/10 Random Orbital Flex Rotary

7424XP L3403 VRG Metabo PE-125

Safety 9 8 3

Correcting time 10 9 5

Correcting ability 5 7 9

Learning curve 2 5 8



Like all tools there is a learning curve with it, so first gain experience on a paint surface that doesn’t matter i.e. a scrap panel, practice until you feel confident enough in its use and capabilities to use it on your own vehicle.



Protective coatings (sometimes referred to as last step products or LSP)



They contain no abrasives (unlike a polish) and are formulated to protect the paint surface from environmental damage (Acid Rain, Industrial Fallout, Bird and Insect excrement, and etc)



Waxes



The purpose of applying a renewable protective coating to automotive paint is to act as a sacrificial barrier against air borne contaminants; this renewable barrier is less than 0.000001" thick, and can be reapplied when the wax / sealant has eroded. Carnauba wax and / or a polymer sealant provide an easily renewable, transparent barrier between the finish and a hostile environment

Are usually made from a natural wax, usually Brasilia Carnauba, or synthetically made of polymers and acrylic resins.

Car waxes and paint sealants make the surface of a car reflect more light.



• Carnauba-based car waxes add an element of depth and warmth to a car.



• Polymer paint sealants create brilliance and sparkle.



Polymer Sealants



Made from modern polymers or acrylic resins, synthetic waxes offer excellent durability and ease of application. Quality synthetic waxes have been known to last 6 - 9 months or longer, typically the application process is simply, wipe on and wipe off. Synthetic polymers create a very bright mirror-like shine that many enthusiasts feel lack depth and richness. Dark colours can look a little sterile or silvery in the direct sunlight, polymers actually highlight paint flaws.



Storage (Product)



Storing products in a refrigerator or wine cooler adds to the elitist or exclusivity factor, as far as the contents are concerned it has no merit from a chemical standpoint



Water-based car care products should not be stored at temperatures below > 35.OF (wax 45.OF) if they freeze they may become unstable and therefore unusable, ideal storage temperature range- 50- 7.OF with an average humidity range. Most car care products have a ‘useful life’ of approximately 2-3 years provided they are stored as above.



Keep containers tightly closed in a dry, cool and well-ventilated place. Keep away from direct sunlight. Do not allow to freeze. Do not store at temperature extremes (below 40 – over 80.OF +) as heat will destabilise emulsified products (wax, polymer sealants, polishes, etc) and avoid extreme temperature swings as the chemicals will become unstable, which will create problems with the performance of the product. Some separate out; others lose their effectiveness if they are heated past a certain point. Most car care products (including Polymers) will separate and may become unusable after being subjected to freezing temperatures



The chemical composition of waxes rarely ever change regardless of what form it is in, whether it is melted to a semi-liquid or remains as a semi-solid. Temperature has little to no effect as far as inhibiting the shelf life of wax, a cool temperatures and constant humidity will slow the evaporation of solvents from the wax, thus keeping the wax softer and easier to use over a longer period of time.





Related Articles



1. “Foam Pads I” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...am-pads-i.html



2. “Hand Polishing Paint” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...ml#post1459982



3. “Interior Detailing Part I” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia...ng-part-i.html



4. “Polymers and Carnauba wax differences” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...fferences.html



5. Detailing Articles - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia...yperlinks.html