Removing most ‘everyday’ type stains from paintwork

[togwt]

Quite a formidable list but all these have a few things in common; they are all forms of environmental contamination and given the right catalyst; reactivity (heat) plus moisture, they will become acidic.



During this process the metal absorbs oxygen from the water and forms iron oxide (rust). Given the porosity of paint they permeate the paint matrix down to body metal.



The good or at least better news is that an organic wax will provide a sacrificial barrier i.e. it provides (time) limited protection and also absorbs the acid, which can then be wiped off and then renewed. It should be noted that any wax subjected to an acidic attack (acid rain, bird excrement, etc) must be removed without delay otherwise the paint surface will be compromised.



Bituminous Asphalt Removal



[:The term asphalt is often used as an abbreviation for asphalt concrete, asphalt refers to a mixture of mineral aggregate and bitumen (tarmac) Composed almost entirely of bitumen, which is a category of organic liquids that are highly viscous, black, sticky and wholly soluble in carbon disulfide, mostly made up of highly condensed polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons]



These sometimes feel like they are in the clear coat, when in fact they have more than likely been covered with a wax or sealant.



The reasoning for the use of solvents for the removal of bituminous asphalt is that it dissolves as a means of removal, as opposed to friction. Asphalt comprises; bitumen emulsion and fine graded aggregate with fillers and is very sticky and its presence on your paint means that harder particulate matter (dirt/grit) has also stuck to it. By agitating or rubbing the dirt/grit that is contained within the bituminous asphalt will cause surface marring or possibly scratching, dissolution alleviates any potential surface damage.



A solvent (Stonerâ„¢ Tarminator, Stonerâ„¢ Natural Citrus Xenit or Wurth Clean Solve) it simply emulsifies and dissolves the bituminous asphalt when you spray it directly to the surface, apply to the affected area, allow sufficient react time, and carefully wipe off, you may have to apply it three or four times allowing plenty of react time between applications. It can also dissolve a variety of oil and petroleum based products, it`s safe to use on all types of paint, plastics, synthetic fibres, carpet and upholstery. If used on vehicle paintwork, carpet or fabric re-apply a protect rant after use.



Other uses - it will dissolve chewing gum and adhesives. Use to de-tar wheel rims after cleaning, will also remove shoe scuffmarks from vinyl trim, and can be used to remove tree sap or fuel stains from paint surfaces.



Notes- use caution if you use WD-40 for bituminous asphalt removal as it contains strong hydrocarbon (aliphatic) solvents, which may compromise the integrity of the clear coat causing it to occlude (become opaque, clouded or yellowed.



Alternative product - Wurth Clean Solve is fast acting and will not leave film residue, safe to use on all painted surfaces. Quickly removes track rubber (from tyres) paint overspray, adhesives, tar, grease, oils, silicone and waxes. Can be used on acrylic finishes, aluminium, plastics, vinyl’s, fabrics, glass, and fibreglass



Brake or Rail dust



Road grime and sintered brake dust stuck fast on expensive alloy, as well as spoiling the aesthetics will damage the rims: Sooner or later, these aggressive residues will eat through the coating. This leaves ugly discoloration, which is also extremely difficult to remove



Airborne ferrous particles containing iron actually penetrate the paint and create corrosive compounds that eat deep into the paint`s sub-layers or paint’s pin-holes. This is a gradual process that often is not evident until it`s too late. Claying or polishing only removes the particle, not its effects, which are continuing to spread beneath the surface.



The brake pad material (semi-metallic, carbon resins, asbestos or ceramics formulations) rubbing against the rotor disperses tiny particles of black dust, which forms a sintered (heat fused) cohesive bond to the wheels and adheres to localised paint surfaces. Brake dust comprises is a combination of ferrous metal particles, which tends to oxidize and when they come into contact with moisture will set-up galvanic corrosion and form rust.



Finally there is brake pad adhesive, modern brake pads are complex compounds of metals, synthetic materials and adhesives (the binder system) which is designed to wear away under friction like the rest of the pad. The adhesives used in brake pads can be very difficult to remove and they are also corrosive and will etch the wheel surface, the metal particles from the pads and rotors will become a conduit for rust compromising the paint surface of the paint surface. The adhesives used can be very hard to remove, use a safe solvent like Stoner’s Tarminator™



Ceramic brake pads incorporate a formula that includes ceramic materials and utilizes less metal (approximately 15% metal content by weight). Ceramic brake pads combine exceptional braking power with very quiet and low-dust braking

Detailer’s clay will remove most but not all of the iron particulate that is the cause of the rust "blooming", to for a corrosion decontamination system to be effective requires the complete removal of all particulates and the corrosive acids they generate that have penetrated the wheels surface or the paint`s resin system.



Decontamination Treatment- heavy deposits of ferrous oxide will require removal with a decontamination treatment (AQuartz IronX) this will remove the deposits and ensure against rust formation. Using detailer’s clay with will remove any surface contaminants after the ferrous oxide removal process. The front wheels are usually more soiled, as this is where most of the vehicle braking effectiveness is.



For badly soiled surfaces use an undiluted citrus-based APC (P21S® Total Auto Wash), then use detailer’s clay followed by a pH controlled cleaner (Sonax Extreme Wheel Cleaner) apply a polymer surface protection to ensure easier future cleaning (Klasse All-In-One)

To remove brake dust stains use a mildly abrasive cleaner (Zaino Z-AIO All-In-One or P21S® Multi-Surface Finish)



Bird Excrement



Consists of [: Uric acid , C5H4N4O3 [a diprotic acid , thus in strong alkali at high pH it forms the dually charged full urate ion, but at biological pH or in the presence of carbonic acid or carbonate ions it forms the singly charged hydrogen or acid urate ion as its pKa2 is greater than the pKa1 of carbonic acid] [1]



Bird excrement is one of the most damaging environmental pollutants as they relate to automobile paint as it comprises; Ammonia and urine as white crystals of uric acid (pH 3.0 - 4.5) a small organic compound, which is produced by the breakdown of protein during digestion, and is excreted by reptiles and birds. Uric acid is also the end product of nitrogen catabolism in birds Ammonia is a mixture of nitrogen gas and hydrogen gas; with moisture as a catalyst it becomes Ammonium Hydroxide, which is caustic.



When you have an acid + moisture +oxygen + ozone all of which equates to a highly concentrated acidic solution, add heat (reactivity) to this equation, and you have the causes of pitting, a concave indentation on the paint surface. Heat and water act as a catalyst (reactivity); a vehicle paint surface temperature of >90.oF creates a very aggressive reactivity of the Alkaline, Uric Acid and Ammonia. This will cause surface etching, so they should be removed without delay. In this case, paint care not only serves aesthetics, but also helps preserve the vehicles. At lower temperatures (> 40.oF or less) there’s no reactivity and therefore little or no etching.



Definition - the damage can range from paint discoloration to the film dissolving completely. Bubbling, swelling and etching are typical phenomena.



Be cognizant that there are no polymers, nanotechnology coatings or waxes that are acid-proof; they will only offer short-time resistance. The most pertinent factor is to have a layer of (sacrificial) protection between the acid and your paint surface. The second is to ensure that is removed and any residue is neutralized as soon as possible.



For added protection apply an organic wax over the polymer sealant, as this acts as a sacrificial barrier and by washing the vehicles paint surface plus the reapplication of the sacrificial barrier on a regular basis.



Their main food source in summer is mostly insects and seeds, in the winter/ spring it’s berries, which are very acidic, and if left for any length of time the will cause the porous clear coat to occlude (a non-transparent ‘clouded’ area) or may cause etching (a depression in the paint or glass surfaces)



Birds use gravel to help digest their food, predatory birds (owls, hawks, etc hunt and kill mice and small animals, so ground light weight bone fragments, sand and grit are some of the major components, which can cause scratching.



Avoid using a quick detailer (QD) spray or a sealant to flush residue, as they usually contain either carnauba wax or polymers, which will seal in the acid and not allow it to dissipate. Take your time and be careful with its removal, these acids should be removed as quickly as possible. If the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated by moisture and heat.



• Limonene (citrus-based) cleaner (P21S Total Auto Wash) will both emulsify and neutralize the acid or use an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water as soon as is practical is highly recommended.

• 1:1 solution Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) and distilled water. The alcohol content acts as a drying agent, which will extract the acid, then thoroughly flush with water to rinse away any grit or sand, etc or use detailers clay to encapsulate it, re-spray the area let it react for 2-3 minutes and wipe dry.

• Glass cleaner (do not use one that contains ammonia; as it acts as an acid accelerant

• Gel alcohol hand cleaner (Purell®) Place a small amount on to a first aid gauze pad and apply to effected area this will help it stay in place during the necessary react time. The alcohol content acts as a drying agent, which will extract the acid, then thoroughly flush with water to rinse away any grit or sand, etc or use detailers clay to encapsulate it, re-spray the area let it react for 2-3 minutes and wipe dry.



An automobile paint system is porous; when you add moisture and heat to an acidic substance it will erode the paint system very quickly; as the heat opens microscopic fissures in the clear coat allowing ingress, the water provides a carrier system for the acid, and heat acts as a catalyst (reactivity) each time water is reintroduced the acid will be reactivated and erode the paint matrix



Identify the type of damage (Type I Surface staining or Type II Surface etching (a concave indentation) Ultra violet (UV-A) infrared radiation (heat) causes the urethane clear coat to expand allowing contaminates to permeate; the same heat greatly accelerates the corrosive abilities (reactivity) of the acid, for these reasons any acid or alkali should be neutralized (See Acid / Alkali Neutralization)



Verification of the type of surface condition can be diagnosed through the use of a 30X magnifier. Any acid should be removed from the paint surface ASAP; proceed by using the least abrasive products first



Type I [is an off-white non-transparent ‘clouded’ stain] that if left for any length of time that will cause the porous clear coat to occlude (become non-transparent) this is usually inherent with a light surface stain. Providing it is removed quickly and hasn’t been subjected to reactivity (moisture and heat) this can usually be removed easily, especially if there is a sacrificial coat of wax on the paint



1. Use a chemical paint surface cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner) to remove surface stains

2. Use ValuGuard Acid Neutralizer (Step I) - diluted 1:8 neutralizes acids deposited on the paint surface and in the pores of the paint

3. Try to dissolve the surface/etched deposits trying one or more of the following;

a) Use a 2:1 or stronger solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)

b) Try a 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)

c) Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.

4. Clean the effected surface with Klasse All-In-One or Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner



Type II [is a mark with surface etching (a concave indentation) around its perimeter] this is usually the result of a stain that has been on the surface for a while and has been subjected to reactivity (the addition of moisture and heat), which produces an acid that etches the paint surface



1. Use a chemical paint surface cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner) to remove surface stains

2. Use ValuGuard Acid Neutralizer (Step I) - diluted 1:8 neutralizes acids deposited on the paint surface and in the pores of the paint

3. Use detailing clay to remove any `hard` surface granules

4. Use a machine polish (Optimum Polish or Optimum Compound) and a cutting (LC White, Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4- 5.0) to level the surface

5. For PPG CeramiClearâ„¢ Clear Coat or other hard clear coats substitute Menzerna for machine polish; PO 203 S - Power Finish

6. Use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive polish / foam pad set-up

7. Wet-sand with 2000, 2500 or 3000 grit finishing paper and polish with a finishing polish

8. Apply a paint protection



Do not scrub hardened/dried excrement residue, birds use gravel to help digest their food so grit and sand are some of the major components, which can cause scratching as it is very abrasive and will scratch the paint surface. Once it softened (re-liquefied) it enables their removal with less likelihood of damage to the paint surface Do not use on a hot paint surface (soon after driving) as this will cause streaking



Use a solution of Optimum no-rinse (ONR) diluted 1:20 / distilled water in a fine mist spray bottle) and allow to react time as this will soften debris and allow it to be removed with a mesh covered bug sponge



Protection - an acrylic polymer or polyethylene-acrylic (Klasse, Jeff Werkstatt or Duragloss #105 Total Performance Polish) are all acid-based so they are more resistant to acidic pollutants (acid rain, bird excrement, and etc) there is no product wax, polymer or nano coating, including CeramiClear that is acid-proof. For added protection apply an organic wax over the polymer sealant as this sacrificial barrier and by washing the vehicles paint surface on a regular basis.



Far beyond washing, cleaning and detailing your automobile inside and out, the best preservative action you can take is to cover the car with a car cover. It provides the best protection against industrial fallout (IFO) dust, dirt; ultra violet (UV) and infrared (IR) radiation; bird excrement and windblown debris (See also Car Cover Section)



Aves bomb First Aid Kit- use a 1:20 Optimum No-Rinse (ONR) / distilled water solution in a fine mist spray bottle. The surfactants it contains encapsulate and trap bird and insect excrement, dry surface dust, or light dirt particles making them virtually non-abrasive and it can be used without causing scratches (check contents periodically as heat will evaporate the contents if stored in the car’s trunk)



Apply with a long nap micro fibre towel using very little surface pressure, dusting with long strokes in one direction only. For stubborn stains, soak the micro fibre towel and allow it to remain i n place for a few minutes and then wipe away the debris.

Caution - Dispose of any towels or wipes used to remove bird droppings immediately and thoroughly wash your hands, as bird lime can harbour diseases



Avoid using a QD spray to flush residue, as they contain either carnauba wax or polymer sealants, which will seal the acid and not allow it to dissipate. Using an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water (to neutralize the acid) as soon as is practical is highly recommended, if the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated (heat and moisture). If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish (Zaino PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleanser) and then apply a paint protection.



Tree resin (sap)



[: the resin produced by most plants is a viscous liquid, composed mainly of volatile fluid terpenes, with lesser components of dissolved non-volatile solids which make resin thick and sticky. Some resins also contain a high proportion of resin acids. Some resins when soft are known as `oleo-resins`, and when containing benzoic acid or cinnamic acid they are called balsams] [1]



Appears like a dark brown/ rust red colored raised surface mark, some of the most common resinous tree sap types are: White Pine, Ponderosa Pine, Walnut (also secretes an oily residue) Maple, Oak, Popular, and Blue Spruce, none of which are water soluble, the acidic content of the sap will etch the paint surface; causing a concave surface.



A lot depends upon the type of sap, which is actually an acidic resin emitted from the tree, the resin deposits can be removed by- Isopropyl alcohol (IPA), a safe solvent (Stoner’s Tarminator®) or turpentine, which is made from tree resins, in severe cases it can be used to break down the resin in tree sap, use as a last resort only and use sparingly and do not rub hard and give it some time to work and then use detailer’s clay.



Once you remove the sap deposits, the paint or clear may be cracked, which may entail some expensive refinishing.

Factors as to the amount of time it takes to remove sap and what damage it has caused are dependent on temperature and time the sap has been on the paint surface. Be careful and take your time removing it, remember always let the products do the work for you.

Tree resin (sap) once it’s removed will sometimes leave a `ghost` outline, try a chemical type paint cleaner or a finishing polish with a zero abrasive foam pad



For tree sap that has hardened, carefully / lightly scrape the top of the spot off with a plastic razor blade to expose the softer sap inside. The remaining sap can usually be removed by soaking with Isopropyl Alcohol (or Stoner’s Tarminator®) wet the area with the product by soaking a micro fibre towel (place `dots` of detailer`s clay on each corner of the towel) and allows it to remain on the surface for 3-5 minutes, then wipe with soft dry towel.



Apply Zaino’s ZPC Fusion with a foam applicator and then remove residue or soak a towel with the solvent placing it over the sap and let soak for 10-minutes, repeat in order for the solvents to break down the sap, once it’s removed re-apply sealant / wax protection of your choice. If the paint has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish and then apply a paint protection



Notes

1. Use caution if you use WD-40 for sap removal, as it contains hydrocarbon-based (aliphatic) solvents, which may compromise the integrity of the clear coat causing it to occlude (clouding or yellowing).



2. Avoid using a QD sprays to flush residue, as they contain either carnauba wax or polymer sealants, which will seal the acid and not allow it to dissipate. Using an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water (to neutralize the acid) as soon as is practical is highly recommended, if the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated.



3. If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish, then apply a paint protection.

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[imported_Larry A]

All the stuff you are posting is great stuff, keep it up.

[togwt]

Knowledge unshared is Experience wasted

[Dan]

The bird poo section was especially interesting. I`m curious about hard water spots and you take on those.

[togwt]

The bird poo section was especially interesting. I`m curious about hard water spots and you take on those.

The misnomer ‘water spots’ are likely to contain the atmospheric pollutants nitrogen oxide (NOx) and sulphur oxide (SOx) once water and heat (reactivity) both of which can cause paint discoloration, surface etching (a concave circular mark and pitting) leaving microscopic surface imperfections and micro pores in the paint film surface that are vulnerable to deterioration, which need to be removed and naturalized as soon as possible.



There are two categories of water spot-



a) Stage I Corrosion [: defined as a surface with light to moderate corrosion damage to the paint surface]



b)Stage II Corrosion [: definition when the dirt/corrosion deposits are no longer on the surface but have started to break down the molecular structure, leaving an etched or white haze on the surface after the stain has been removed, with moderate to serious paint damage]



Using the least abrasive product first-



1. Use a paint surface chemical cleaner (Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner)

2. Try to dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral water deposits by trying one or more of the following;

a) Use a 2:1 or stronger solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)

b) Try a 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)

c) Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.

3. .Clean the effected surface with Klasse All-In-One or Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner

4. Use detailing clay to remove any `hard` surface granules

5. Use a machine polish (Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound) and a cutting (LC White, Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4- 5.0) to level the surface

6. For PPG CeramiClearâ„¢ Clear Coat or other hard clear coats substitute Menzerna for machine polish; PO 203 S - Power Finish

7. Use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive polish / foam pad set-up

8. Wet-sand with 2000, 2500 or 3000 grit finishing paper



a) Surface water spots- (Stage I Corrosion) alkaline watermarks consist of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg) both of which are basic (alkaline pH 10) that alight on the surface; ultra violet (heat) radiation (UVR) will leave a white ‘water mark’, the minute crystals bond to the surface, they will not wash off as they are insoluble and if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark, remove surface deposits with detailer’s clay and an acetic acid pH 2.0 (vinegar) to naturalise the alkaline



b) Below surface (etched) acidic spots- (Stage II Corrosion ) are caused by an aggressive alkaline or an acidic solution (acid rain, bird excrement or industrial fallout) causing a chemical reaction, if left for any length of time they will etch the paint film surface leaving a concave circular mark. Etched acid rain spots are one of the most difficult paint defects to remove so be patient as it will probably take more than one attempt to remove them. Acid spots require an abrasive polish to level the surface (some stubborn marks may require wet sanding) and an alkaline solution to neutralize them, simply rinsing a vehicle with deionised water or tap water activates / reactivates the acid concentrates. (A B C Decontamination / Neutralization system) (See also Industrial fall out (IFO) Acid rain and Reactivity)



If the paint can be rectified by chemical means then this is the answer; not abrasive polishing. Using the correct chemical cleaners will dissolve the contaminants rather than abrading the paint. With all cleaning products (especially solvents) always test a small inconspicuous area first to ensure it won`t discolour, stain or etch the surface, and ensure that the pH of the product is suitable for the material After the paint surface has been subjected to a chemical cleaning its protective layer (s) have been removed and the paint surface left without protection, so it is very important that a polymer and / or Carnauba wax protection be applied immediately



1a) Removing Surface- (Stage I Corrosion)



• Use detailing clay to remove any `hard` surface granules

• Use a paint surface cleaner (Zaino Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner or / Zaino All-In-One (Z-AIO)

• Dissolve the alkaline-based, surface/etched mineral water deposits try one or more of the following;

a) Use a 2:1 solution of distilled water/distilled white vinegar (Acetic acid)

b) Try 2:1 solution of distilled water/Isopropyl Alcohol (adjust ratio as required)

c) Or equal parts distilled water/distilled white vinegar/Isopropyl alcohol.

Allow chemical solution sufficient react time (5-10 minutes)



• Use a clean spray bottle and 100% cotton Micro fibre cloth to apply the solution to the surface

• Or soak a first aid gauze pad with the vinegar/ water solution, this will help it stay in place during the necessary react time, 5-10 minutes) wipe off any residue from surface and dry with a damp waffle weave towel

• Use a clean spray bottle and 100% cotton micro fibre cloth to apply the solution to the paint surface

• Wipe off any residue from the surface and dry with a damp waffle weave towel

• If any `water marks` remain apply distilled white vinegar or Isopropyl alcohol un-diluted to a 100% cotton micro fibre towel, using a medium/heavy pressure on surface, for stubborn spots use an abrasive polish as in 1b)





1b) Removing etched (sub- surface) - (Stage II Corrosion)-



• These can be removed by using detailer`s clay to remove any hardened surface deposits

• Then using a machine polish ( Optimum Polish, Optimum Compound, Z-PC Fusion Dual Action Paint Cleaner or Klasse All-In-One (AIO) and a cutting (LC Orange or Yellow) foam pad (speed # 4-5.0 ) to level the surface (use the least aggressive polish/foam pad first, if this doesn’t remove the problem step-up to a more aggressive set-up)

• Work on a very small area at a time (2-foot x 2-foot) until the polish has run out

• Repeat this process two or three times, as necessary

• Reapply surface protection once spots have been removed.

• If none of the above methods remove the etched water spots consider wet-sanding the paint finish



1c) Using a polish or compound will remove the etching and the indentations, the surface should then be neutralised



Neutralization – after washing the paint surface use a chemical paint cleaner (Klasse all in one (AIO) or ValuGuard "N" New Car Prep; follow with ValuGuard Acid Neutralizer (Step I) - neutralizes acids deposited on the paint surface and in the pores of the paint. If the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acidic residue will be reactivated by heat and moisture. If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish and then apply a paint protection.



Protection - an acrylic polymer or polyethylene-acrylic (Klasse, Jeff Werkstatt or Duragloss #105 Total Performance Polish) are all acid-based so they are resistant to acidic pollutants (acid rain, bird excrement, and etc) there is no. For added protection apply an organic wax over the polymer sealant as this sacrificial barrier and by washing the vehicles paint surface on a regular basis.



Be cognizant that there are no polymers, nanotechnology coatings or waxes that are acid-proof; they will only offer short-time resistance. The most pertinent factor is to have a layer of (sacrificial) protection between the acid and your paint surface. The second is to ensure that is removed and any residue is neutralized as soon as possible. For added protection apply an organic wax over the polymer sealant, as this acts as a sacrificial barrier and by washing the vehicles paint surface plus the reapplication of the sacrificial barrier on a regular basis



Notes

1. Synthetic steel or bronze wool; whatever the grade can leave micro-scratches in the glass, which then become impregnated with road dirt, grit and grime, causing a clouding the glass over time, which impairs visibility.



2. Do not use abrasive cleaner; glass polish or any grade synthetic steel wool on after market-tinted glass or you will probably scratch the surface.



3. Use Jet Dry to break the surface tension of the water and to prevent mineral or hard water spots from forming (1- capful per 2-gallons).



4. For deeply etched water spots (> 0.004 Mil) in the windshield surface, do not attempt to polish them out, consult an automotive windshield vendor as glass or plastic used on later model cars is soft and thin (this may vary by manufacturer) due to weight / cost savings by vehicle manufactures and polishing could cause surface to become badly scratched, stressed or cracked.



5. Be cautious with polishes that contain abrasives like Aluminium or cerium oxide as they have the potential to damage glass beyond repair.

6. Some windshields and mirrors have a tinted plastic coating or a blue tint that will scratch or be damaged, only use a glass polish; not synthetic steel or bronze wool as it will cause micro scratches that will greatly reduce visibility) on uncoated glass.

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