Paint Surface Scratches (Cause & Effect)

[togwt]

Basics of abrasive polishing



Automotive paint surfaces comprise numerous microscopic peaks and valleys, much like the profile of a mountain range. These irregularities are known as capillary structures; there may be millions of these defects per square inch. When these scratches are removed from a surface it becomes a smooth level surface that reflects light.

Scratches are identified by a grit number; "grit" is a reference to the number of abrasive particles per inch of finishing paper that are required to remove the scratches left by the grit scratches i.e. 2000 grit scratches are removed by using an abrasive rated at 3000 grit. You are actually replacing scratches with even finer scratches until they are invisible to the naked eye.



Menzerna manufacture a range of abrasive polishes from 1000 grit all the way down to 4000 grit (SF4000) these polishes contain nanotechnology ceramic micro particle diminishing abrasives that are milled to 0.3 µ (micron) They mill their own abrasives, which allows them to control the size and uniformity of the aluminium oxide abrasive used and also contain a higher abrasive content, 7% were as the other polishes contain 3% abrasives.



The abrasives are just one factor in the equation; lubricants, solvents, emulsion and their carrier system will determine the actual functional ability of the polish. Diminishing abrasive polishes are foam pad ‘dependant’ as far as its paint correction / renovation abilities are concerned



These polishes were designed to work by utilizing kinetic (or dynamic) friction to break-down the diminishing abrasives, the more friction applied to diminishing abrasives the finer they become; this is how even micro scratches are removed. It works on the surface of paint using aluminium oxide spheres, suspended in water and hydrocarbon oils and a mechanical process to abrade the surface of the paint down to the level of the bottom of the scratch.

Types of Scratches



The less you physically touch the paint surface the less likely you are to cause scratches. Most surface scratches are caused by improper washing or drying, or by using unsuitable media. Avoiding paint scratches (as much as is possible) will lessen the need to use an abrasive polish along with the subsequent loss of clear coat



Scratches in the clear coat or its sub-surface, that is to say any form of damage that is in the top layer of the paint surface, which includes; marring, swirl marks, scratches, stone chips, water spots and acid etching. The most common form of sub-surface damage is caused by road thrown stone chips, particularly on the front ends of cars. Surface scratches are invariably caused by grit being trapped between the paint surface and the applicator and being moved across the surface under pressure



Most scratches on a paint surface are V or U shaped, being caused by a small sharp object (fine sand or grit) and a slightly blunt object (belt buckle, button or zip) so an abrasive polish and pad are more readily able to polish the sides and smooth the points where the top of the scratch meets the surrounding paint`s uppermost surface (paint levelling).



What makes a scratch visible is that it makes the paint surface two-dimensional and the light reflects from the microscopic peaks and valleys differently from the rest of the paint surface. When you abrade an area with a machine and foam pad these abrasions form a uniform pattern (the machine /foam pad applies an even and consistent pressure) and light reflects from its surface evenly without any two-dimensional reflectance giving the impression that it’s been ‘removed’



The perfect, mirror-like reflection of light from a surface, in which light from a single incoming direction is reflected into a single outgoing direction the best example of spatial reflection is seen when reflected from a flat level surface.



If the surface is perfectly flat, light will be reflected to produce a mirror image of the surface. But if there you have matte paint or are imperfections such as swirls, surface contaminants, orange peel, or oxidation (dull, opaque or unlevelled paint) light is refracted and the reflected light becomes distorted, diffuse reflection, which mutes the shine.



Technically we have different types of scratches because of the different ways they are introduced into the paint.



• Surface marring –could be in either in the paint surface or wax /sealant, the shallow surface marks often caused by the incorrect use of a micro fibre towel, improper washing methodologies or the scratch pattern caused by a dual action polisher. Surface marring is actually made up of tiny scratches, which can easily be remedied by using a very light abrasive one-step polish



• Halo-scratches - (swirl marks or spider webs) which, when the light reflects off the raised edges of the scratches, appear to be circular but in reality they are made up of numerous straight line random scratches which are caused by washing, drying and everyday wear and tear. Some are surface marring, whereas others can be deep into the clear coat.



• Holograms - (also called buffer marks or buffer trails) which again are scratches but these scratches are micro-fine patterned scratches which are caused by a high speed polisher and an operator who doesn`t know how to properly finish down their work. They take on a 3D effect and if the car is moving or you move around the car they seem to "flow" through the paint.



• Pig-tailing - caused by dried compound residue lodged in the fibres of a wool pad



• Etching - is a type of paint defect that can vary in depth and frequency, but creates a unique pattern dependant on how it is created. Etching is caused by chemical reaction (Acid Rail, IFO, Bird excrement, bombs, and the residual minerals found in water) on that paint’s surface that dissolves the surface, creating depressions.



• Deep Scratches- a surface scratch that will `catch` your fingernail is approximately 0.04 Mil (1.0 µ) deep will usually require wet sanding



• Haze - this is usually caused by using a pad / polish combination that is too abrasive for the paint surface to finish without leaving very fine scratch marks. Paint exhibits a general lack of gloss, this could also be caused by harsh detergents, solvents, or hardly perceivable hairline scratches or even a paint protection or polish that is not properly removed, all of which leave behind a dull surface that doesn’t reflect light.



• Surface scouring – this is usually caused by abraded paint residue not the pad or the polish used



• Swirl marks - Swirl marks (buffer trails) ribbon-like abrasions, the things that cause swirl marks are varied; an unnecessarily aggressive pad or abrasive, excessive speed or pressure used or too stiff a backing plate are just some of the many reasons for this type of surface defect. Even scratch-resistant and ceramic clear coats are susceptible to swirl marks if polished incorrectly.



• Stone chips - and other minor damage are not only aesthetically displeasing they look unsightly and once they begin to accumulate, especially on dark coloured car. But worse still, because the stone chips, scratches and scuffs have penetrated the clear coat, you car will be prone to rust



Cause and Effect



Too ensure a near perfect paint surface blemishes need to be removed. However there are some things to be cognizant of as it is possible to actually make things worse by using improper methodologies.



Proceed with this in mind; always choose the least intrusive product, it is preferable to polish 2-3 times to restore the paint film surface than to use an unnecessarily abrasive machine polish / foam pad combination. Before commencing polishing do a test panel on the car, once you have achieved the desired results with your selected polish / pad combination then proceed to polish the rest of the panels



• Foam pad - using a foam pad that is too aggressive or is not suitable for the polish selected



• Polish - select an abrasive polish to match the scratch you are trying to remove; by using the least abrasive combination of polish / pads to remove the defect, before moving up to a more abrasive combination. It makes no sense to use a very aggressive polish, that will remove most scratches but to the detriment of the clear coats thickness. Know your product and its capabilities before using it.



• Dirty pads - will become more abrasive, as will pads that are simply sitting in a dirty or dusty environment. Even microscopic dirt and dust on a pad can lead to swirl marks.



• Cross contamination- do not use the same pad to apply differing products as cross contamination; i.e. a pad that was used with a polishing compound may have traces left and if the same pad is use for polishing it will cause scratches. However if you thoroughly clean pads right after use you shouldn’t have any problems with contamination from different grades of polishes or compounds.



• Backing plate - a hard and inflexible backing plate will affect the performance of a foam pad; by making it slightly more aggressive (stiffness) and may cause swirl marks. The inflexible plastic on many backing plates has zero give and therefore will not adjust to the contoured body panels. The exception would be a plate bonded to a thick layer of dense cellular foam.



• Speed - using too high a speed will not necessarily get the job done faster as there is a risk of instilling swirl marks or strikethrough, which will need to be corrected to remove



• Pressure - excessive pressure will make the pad / polish combination more aggressive, this has the effect of increasing kinetic energy (friction heat) which may result in a strikethrough, a friction paint burn or paint delamination from the substrate. Increased surface friction will also cause swirl marks



• Heat - excessive heat and a combination of excessive pressure (surface resistance) speed and an aggressive pad / polish combination will rapidly generate surface heat, this will soften the paint and may cause delamination from the substrate, surface hazing, strike-through and greatly increase the chance of swirls.



• Pad angle – ideally a pad should be operated flat to the surface; this provides the correct contact surface area along with sufficient surface lubrication from the polish oils. By turning a pad on an angle you reduce the surface are contact, increasing pressure and reduce the amount of surface lubrication available. Incorrect polish techniques will lead to swirl marks.



• Insufficient product - without the polish lubrication oils, dry buffing will cause delamination from the substrate, surface hazing, strike-through and greatly increase the chance of swirls.



Common causes of scratches



• Improper methodology / tools used when washing or drying a paint surface. This is the most common cause of surface scratching / marring) and accounts for as much as 75% + of surface marring



• A large proportion of all paintwork scratches are caused by automated car washes. Minute particles of hard materials, such as road dust and sand, become lodged in the rotating brushes and etch scratches into the paint surface. These “hair-line� scratches are particularly noticeable in darker paint shades.



• Using an unsuitable applicator or brush to clean the vehicle or remove snow etc



• Using cheap micro fibre or terry cloth towels or some wash sponges will scratch the paint as these materials are hard and unforgiving, inflicting scratches without the need for grit particles



• Placing or dragging an object across the boot lid



• Jewellery (rings, bracelets, etc) coming into contact with paint (i.e. rings abrading door handle recess)



• Using too much pressure with a car duster on a dusty / dirty surface



• Pulling a car-cover over a very dusty / dirty vehicle or dirt /grit on the inside of the cover



• Wiping a dry surface with a dry cloth



• Infrequent rinsing of brush or wash mitt when washing vehicle



• Using a dirty towel (dirt / grit trapped in fibres) and / or applicators that contain polyester (plastic) threads



• Using a towel or cloth that is unsuitable for paint film surfaces



• Not thoroughly rinsing road grime before drying



• Using a car wash concentrate that doesn’t suspend grit / dirt before it gets rinsed away



• Improper use of a water-blade (i.e. not rinsing blade surface after each pass)



• Wiping a spot of dirt / dust with your hands to maintain a ‘pristine’ look



• Using an unnecessarily abrasive automotive detailer’s clay and / or insufficient lubrication



Paint Surface scratches



• Visible damage-if the scratches show a black, grey or white colour it probably means that it`s compromised the paint system through to the primer. They can usually be rectified by thoroughly cleaning the affected area, then apply a rust preventative primer before the application of both a colour and clear coat with a solvent or a slightly abrasive pre-wax cleaner or polish. Re-apply a protective polish and sealant after the repairs have been affected and the paint has had time to cure.



• Visible abrasions- dragging an object across the top of the trunk lid often cause this kind of surface damage, or careless use of the car keys or even fingernails around the door handles. They can usually be rectified with a slightly abrasive pre-wax cleaner or an abrasive polish.



• Surface scratch (or marring-) most probable cause is by automatic car wash or poor cleaning techniques. The marring looks like thousands of tiny single directional uniform scratches that cause light to refract instead of reflect, this kind of damage is usually confined to the clear coat, and can usually be rectified with a pre-wax cleaner or polish.



Deep Scratches



A surface scratch that will `catch` your fingernail is approximately 0.04 Mil (1.0 µ) deep will usually require wet sanding and the clear coat refinishing Removing a scratch requires removing the layer of paint that contains the defect; you need to level the paint to the lowest point of the scratch. Removing more that 0.5 mil (12µ) of clear coat will cause premature paint film failure as UV protection percolates to the top of the clear coat.



Check paint film thickness with a Paint Thickness Meter (PTG) before you attempt to remove



As you go over a deep scratch, the abrasives round off the edges of the high spots of the scratch. The result is a shallower scratch (when no full correction can be made) rounded edges don’t reflect light the same way a sharp edge will and is therefore less noticeable.



Unfortunately a more and more common form of deep scratch are those inflicted with a sharp object i.e. a key. It may be necessary to carry out some localized wet sanding to facilitate full removal of any deep scratches, once again, paint thickness must be checked, and if the paint is too thin wet sanding should not be considered



Backlighting



Clear coated paints show minor swirls and scratches more readily than pigmented paint (single stage) due to an optical effect called backlighting. Light penetrates the clear coat and is reflected from pigmented paint (colour coat) which in turn reflects any imperfections in the surface of the clear coat, making them highly visible. As you drive towards the setting sun or oncoming headlights on a rainy night, every speck of dirt, smudge or smear on your windshield is suddenly very obvious. They are much more noticeable when sunlight or oncoming headlights back-light them.



Removing surface scratches with a polishing machine



Removing a scratch requires removing the layer of paint that contains the defect; you need to level the paint to the lowest point of the scratch. The dual action of a random orbital motion will require more applied pressure to work the compound into the scratch as opposed to the singular action motion of a rotary spinning with less applied pressure. Due partly to its indirect application of pressure; it removes more clear by putting an uneven pressure on the abrasives



a) A dual action polisher’s orbital’s operating action (throw or offset) is not as efficient at transferring the energy required to create the kinetic friction required, because t puts an uneven pressure on the abrasives. It spins on a double axis, resulting in a pretty much "random" motion of a single point on the pad. This simulates the "random" motion of hand application of polishes.



The downside of this is that you cannot abrade the clear coat either to remove scratches. The PC pretty much just smoothes over the tops of the scratches, not really sanding away any measurable clear coat. To remove scratches you have to make multiple applications to see a visible improvement. So for these reasons a random orbital polisher removes more paint than a rotary circular polisher to remove the same surface defect



b) With a high-speed rotary polisher - you will be removing a certain amount of clear coat and actually levelling the surface. This is good because you truly remove the scratches, not just making them less refractive to light, as the PC does. The problem is that you only have about 1.5 or 2 mil of clear coat to work with.



A rotary polisher requires less pressure and its circular motion is a more directly applied force is very efficient and will remove more paint for each polishing step, which is usually 2-3 to remove surface defects. Its rotational action is able to focus kinetic friction on the high spots the paint more efficiently.



c) Using a moderate to light polish; and utilizing a rotary polisher will remove approximately 0.000025 - inches (0.635 Microns) from the paint surface (they are many variables such as polish/compound and speed / pressure used that may affect the paint removed) You seriously have to make a judgment call about whether any defect is so severe that you cannot live with it and therefore it is worth risking clear coat failure to remove it with the rotary



d) Block or wet sanding (finishing paper and a sanding block) is the most efficient process for paint scratch / defect removal. A polish or compound applied by the sanding block with constant pressure applied to maintain a flat even surface contact. Because of its linear process you abrade the paint surface until the scratch or defects are removed.



Note



1. It is preferable to polish 2-3 times to restore the paint film surface than to use an unnecessarily abrasive polish / foam combination

2. Wool pads are not recommended for random orbital machines (Porter Cable 7424, etc) as wool pads nap / fibres works more efficiently with a centrifugal motion Foam cutting pads tend to be much’ stiffer’ than wool fibres and thus will transfer the movement of the machine to the paint surface more efficiently than a comparable wool pad on an orbital polisher

3. Natural wool is most aggressive - 50/50 wool/acrylic blends intermediate - lamb’s wool the least aggressive

4. Always use the least aggressive product first, and then evaluates the surface, then only if necessary `step-up` to a more abrasive product and / or pad.



Levelling paint



When a detailer uses the term "levelling paint" it really means that they are going to be abrading the surrounding paint area that that contains the defect (scratch, swirls, surface marring, etching, pitting, etc.) So they are not ‘removing the imperfection’ just making the surrounding edges of the scratch flat. It is possible to remove a scratch by using a high-speed rotary and abrading the clear coat to a lower level then the base of the scratch, which will remove clear coat, just be aware of how much clear coat you remove, as you don’t want to compromise the paint systems protection.



Removing more that 0.5 mil (12µ) of clear coat will cause premature paint film failure as UV protection percolates to the top of the clear coat, there is UV protection all the way through the paint, but the majority of it rises to the top with the thinner solvents and particles. As a point of reference a sheet of copy paper is 3.5Mil (89µ) a surface scratch that will `catch` your fingernail is approximately 0.004 Mil (0.01µ) deep will usually require wet sanding and refinishing.



Modern clear coat paints are formulated from polyurethane, applied as a microscopically thin ‘elastic’ film, 1.5 – 2.0 Mils, too much friction heat will cause it to expand, driving the scratches deeper into the paint surface. Always be aware of paint surface temperatures (localized paint temperature should be limited to 110.oF.



In accordance with the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) study a localized `spot` temperature of 115.oF< will cause the paint to soften



Removal of Light Surface Marring



The light surface marring that result from wiping down with a towel or the scratch pattern caused by a dual action polisher Surface marring is actually made up of tiny scratches, which can easily be remedied by using a very light abrasive one-step polish (Menzerna PO 203 S - Power Finish) and a protective wax and/or polymer sealant.. This way you’ll maintain the original paint’s integrity for decades, with allowance only for environmental erosion



Methodology



1. Wash the paint surface

2. Bonded contaminants on the cars paintwork should be removed using a detailer’s clay bar to leave a smooth surface ready for machine compound or polish.

3. Throughout all stages of the polishing process the cars trim adjacent to the area being worked on should be carefully protected using painters tape to mask it to avoid damage. Protect sunroof seal, headlight covers, lighting rubber seals, windscreen surround, pant edges, vehicle emblems and model identification numbers, etc

4. Whenever you’re removing painter’s tape from automotive paint, always pull back on the tape at an angle as a safety precaution.

5. Start the polishing process with a diagnosis of the paint finish and then proceed with the least aggressive polish / pad combination on a ‘test section’ panel, once you have established a suitable polish/pad combination proceed to polish / refine the paint surface

6. It may be necessary to carry out some localized wet sanding to facilitate full removal of any deep scratches, once again, paint thickness will be checked, and if the paint is too thin wet sanding should not be considered.

7. Finally use a polish to remove any surface imperfection and then a fine polish / pad to burnish the paint surface

8. Carry out a wipe down process to ensure all oils and surface defects have been removed.

9. Re-wash to remove any polishing dust and / or debris

10. The final step could be to use a glaze, pre-wax cleaner or go right to protecting your paint with a sealant and/or wax.









[EDIT: updated 12/23/2011]

[Accumulator]

TOGWT- I use "marring" differently than you do; for me it`s a more generic term for "all kinds of scratches, swirls, etc." I`m only posting this lest somebody read what we both post and end up confused. Heh heh, it`s sorta like the use of the word "polish" in this business, huh?

[togwt]

^^^ Agreed

[Ron Ketcham]

If I may add another item to consider.



Which is "harder-denser", the clear or the "sealant-wax"?

Which of these is affected to higher degree by high heat on the surface.?



Many concerns that are observed by those on this forum and others may actually not have anything to do with marring of the paint system.

Rather the concern is in the "wax-sealant".



This "micro-marring" created as the vehicle is washed, dried, etc.



Some instant detailer products will reflow the "wax-sealant" enough to remove the marring that is actually in them.



The ones who are constantly wiping off their vehicle, using dusters, etc, etc are also usually the ones constantly

reapplying their favorite product.



Those who use carnuba`s will most likely observe a higher amount of this marring.



Even the hardest wax blend I know, FK1000P is prone to this.



One other thing to observe, "ever notice that on a hot day a car with a few coats of a wax product may appear to be "oily" in apperance?



That`s the result of the wax fracturing and starting break down and evaporate from the vehicle.



Grumpy

[Bill D]

Some instant detailer products will reflow the "wax-sealant" enough to remove the marring that is actually in them.



The ones who are constantly wiping off their vehicle, using dusters, etc, etc are also usually the ones constantly

reapplying their favorite product.



Those who use carnuba`s will most likely observe a higher amount of this marring.

Ron,



Do you mean that the wiping of a vehicle with a carnuaba as a LSP is creating conditions where the carnuaba itself is pushing on the paint system and creating the marring? Or do you mean the act of wiping the vehicle in it of itself creates the marring?



I don`t get much marring and any marring I`ve ever had unfortunately appeared to be in the clear itself I attempted to reapply the LSP and the same marring was still there-I polished an the marring was gone. This has pretty much always been my experience.



Of course I`d love to entirely eliminate marring and any that I would get would just be in the LSP, because all I`d have to do is spot "touch up" some more and it would be gone.

[Accumulator]

Bill D- *I* woulda interpreted Ron Ketcham`s post as referring to marring that`s only in the LSP, rather than in the underlying material (paint, plastic, etc.).



Wonder which of us interpreted that properly :think:



As best I can tell, I`ve only had two instances where that was the case; those were with heavily layered applications of KSG and FK1000P.



That instance with the FK1000P surprised me; I was *certain* that the problem had penetrated to the paint, but after some washes and subsequent (i.e., while drying) QDing I could no longer see the problem. I had first thought the FK146 had somehow concealed it, but later (with FK425 on it instead) the panel passed inspection after all. Sooooo, it must`ve been in the FK1000P after all, but oh man I woulda bet against that :nixweiss



Otherwise, it seems like even the lightest marring (e.g., the stuff you can only see under a SunGun in an otherwise dark environment) is actually in the paint :think: So I generally tell people "nah, it`s not in the LSP, it`s in the paint...".

[Bill D]

I`ve never had any "luck" with marring just being in my LSPs, didn`t matter if they`re carnauba, or full synthetics. Lot less work to just reapply some LSP.



I`m wondering though, is it possible that some how when QDing, ruling out the QD and the MF as the cause, the very action of QDing sometimes can move the LSP across the clear and that action causes marring on some level.



Speaking of marring, I just recently noticed some marring left behind by some quick passes with clay I did weeks and weeks ago. We`re talking at an angle of the sun only at a certain time in the morning, being visible. Drives you crazy for sure!

[Ron Ketcham]

Bill,,

Yes, no, maybe, who knows, etc.

Wiping with a carnuba, how much solvent is in the content of the product?

Is it allowed to dry completely.

What kind of removing towel, how old, how was it washed, etc, etc.

Whose product" (all are not the same)

Lots of variables as you may imagine.



This is the time of year that more "marring" shows up on vehicles, and even worse this year with the high temps we are experiencing.



Ever go to an inclosed, A/C controled car museum?



Everyone wants the finish one sees on most the vehicles, and they could have it.



Just put the vehicle in a controled enviorment, temp controled, dust filters, etc never drive it, never take it out in the world, and then it may be possible to get that

perfection of finish.



Some are lucky in what they obtain, others forget that what they obtain fits their vision of perfection.



To others, it is lacking, to others, it`s ok.



Plus, a camera hides a lot of sins vs real world.



You have no idea of how many of the vehicles seen in car commercials don`t even have real paint on them.



For 3 decades, new models coming out were not in actual production at the time of filming of the commerical`s images.



However, a few million dollars of ad time, magazine pages, brochures, etc where committed to and deadlines had to be met before the vehicles were to hit the dealer`s lots.



I know,(David Fleming ran the Center and FK provided most chemicals then) for back in the late 80`s Chrysler would ship one model, in white, that was a hand built prototype to the New Car Prep Center they operated for dealers in the L.A. area to be prepared for filming.



The vehicle would be cleaned and filmed.



Then a "black", or a "maroon", or "blue", etc special film was applied to all the painted surfaces. (took about a day to do one car)



Out it went, was filmed, and then stripped down and a new color film applied, more filming.



They looked great didn`t theY, no paint flaws, nothing but high shine perfection.



It wasn`t paint!



Grumpy

[Bill D]

Awesome story! Are vehicles shown with crash test dummies filmed for collision testing actually painted or do they have just have film too? I`d find it hard to believe they`d go through the expensive to paint the cars only to crash them.

[Ron Ketcham]

Crash tests by the goverment or the manufacturer?

Goverment, etc are vehicles bought blind off a dealer.

The manufacturers use real cars, both prototype and production.

None, that I am aware of get the "filming treatment", no reason.

Grumpy

[Ron Ketcham]

No, it is "marring" in the wax-sealant.

After all, it is softer than the paint.

Grumpy

[Bill D]

Ah okay, sounds like in the case of the manufacturer doing the test right off the bat, they likely use a car perfectly ready for sale to a customer, painted,everything exactly how it would be.

[Ron Ketcham]

With today`s computer programs, etc, most crash design is done as the vehicle is being designed.

Once the engineers are satisfied that it meets spec, then early panels are stamped, seperate divisions of the company produce "mules", which are then used to real world test various designs, construction methods, etc.

For an example, Ford`s is in Allen Park, Mi at the Vehicle Ops Center. (fun place to get access to, see vehicles that sometimes never make it to production), and others that are 2 or 3 years away.



These "mules" are sent to the various proving grounds, driven all over the country, then each design/engineer group goes back over them.



This is where an major changes may come into play.



Some mules are then subjected to crash testing, to insure that they meet what the computer programs designed actually work in a real crash.



At this point, there may be further changes to the platform, sheet metal, type of metal used in various parts.



Will a mild steel work, a high strength, a laminate steel, a ultra-high strenght, or boron steel.



Most are now using the boron in B pillers and some parts of the frame.



The new F Series Ford, for an example, has 9 diffrent metals used in the cab and sub frame components.



Grumpy