Detailer’s Clay vs. Decontamination

[togwt]

Before the advent of detailer’s clay it was a common practice to remove paint-overspray with a one-sided razor blade and a surface lubricant or by polishing the surface with a compound / polish and a wool pad



a) Detailer’s clay is essentially a malleable applicator that contains suspended abrasive particles, used with a surface lubricant it aquaplanes across the paint surface and removes surface contaminants by abrasion and then encapsulation by the malleable polymer an was originally formulated to remove paint overspray; it is also useful for removing surface contaminants that have bonded to the paint.



Detailer’s clay was originally formulated to remove paint overspray; it is also useful for removing surface contaminants that have bonded to the paint surface. It gained its reputation as a decontamination method because it was mistakenly believed that it ‘pulled’ brake / rail dust iron particulates from the paint surface. Detailer’s clay contains abrasives that will only shear any brake dust particles leaving what is below the paint surface to remain. Once water and heat (reactivity) is added the corrosion process is started.

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b) Paint decontamination systems were developed as a method of removing ferrous contamination beyond what can be removed by washing or claying alone. The only way to completely remove sintered (heat fused) ferrous iron particles is with a dedicated decontamination system that opens up the paint`s micro pores to release iron particles and to neutralize the caustic compounds that have developed as a result of the particle. In one step, you can eliminate both the cause and its effects. Ongoing damage is immediately stopped and future damage is prevented by completely removing the ferrous particles.

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[Bill D]

Hi TOGWT :wavey



Those decontam system can really be a lifesaver for sure! In addition to decon, I was able to reasonably remove most paint overspray from a vehicle by using Valugard`s ABC three step wash system. Finish Kare has a comparable system as well. I bet Ketch will chime in here about them.

[Dan]

I only have limited experience with FK`s paint decon system, but I still find I need to clay afterwards.

[Bill D]

I only have limited experience with FK`s paint decon system, but I still find I need to clay afterwards.

When I was in the process of using the ABC system, I clayed during step "B", which did help release the overspray paint particles well. I believe some have noted that in severe cases of fallout or overspray,sometimes you have to wash with the whole process a second time. Time consuming.

[togwt]

Aquartz Iron X, Wolf Chemicals Deironizer and Sonax are formulated differently from ValuGuard or Finish Kare systems; these are one-step, highly effective vehicle paint decontamination, beyond what can be removed by washing or claying, with the cleaning power of an acid with a pH of 7.0, by using a neutralised acid salt



Neutralization is the reaction between an acid and a base (alkaline) producing a salt and neutralized base; common examples include acetic acid and sulphuric acid. It contains neutralised acid salts that effectively release the metallic particulates from the surface by dissolve the sintered brake dust particles that are lodged in the paints surface forming a water soluble complex that changes colour (clear to deep red) that can be rinsed away. An exothermic reaction is a chemical reaction that is accompanied by the release of heat i.e. neutralization reactions such as direct reaction of acid and base. Do not allow solution to dry on paint surface.



Ammonium thioglycolate NH4 + HSCH2 COO is its main chemical component, its smell is similar to that used in the formulation of permanent wave lotion. The neutralization reaction of an acid with a base will always produce water and a salt. The carbonic acid formed (H2CO3) undergoes rapid decomposition to water and gaseous carbon dioxide, and so the solution aerates as CO2 gas is released. HCl + NaHCO3 > H2CO3 + NaCl (Salt)



It is really interesting to see the amount of iron particles residue that will be dissolved by Iron X, despite having clayed the car before hand. This product definitely offers advancement in paintwork decontamination. 100-150ml per average sized vehicle

[Accumulator]

Hi, TOGWT, welcome back :wavey



Glad you posted about the "shearing vs. pulling" issue; people *still* believe in that "pulling" business.



I want to do the Iron X after an "ABC" wash sometime, just to see if the "B" left a significant amount of ferrous contamination behind.



Oh, and I`m glad to see others are claying during the "B" step (I`ve done it during the "A" too, but that dissolves the clay even faster!). Back when Ron Ketcham and I first discussed it I had the feeling not too many people were doing it. Hmmm...wonder about claying in conjunction with the Iron X :think:

[Ron Ketcham]

When I was in the process of using the ABC system, I clayed during step "B", which did help release the overspray paint particles well. I believe some have noted that in severe cases of fallout or overspray,sometimes you have to wash with the whole process a second time. Time consuming.

Bill, a few years back, Tim Brune (Tech Director for Valugard/AI) found a special pad that does not mar the finish and is very useful to work the B product, releasing the ferrous particles without the use of clay.

These pads look like a "scuff" pad, but are not like a 3M scuff pad, they do not scuff.

It is referred to as an "insect pad" by the company, and very, very good for removing insect deposits after minor soaking of the deposits.

These pads may be used over and over and over, so quite a cost saving, plus if one drops it on the ground, they wash out.

Grumpy

[Ron Ketcham]

The acids in the Iron-X will not be good for the clay, try the ValuGard Insect Pad instead.

Save your self a lot of money and it lasts for car after car.

Grumpy

[Bill D]

Bill, a few years back, Tim Brune (Tech Director for Valugard/AI) found a special pad that does not mar the finish and is very useful to work the B product, releasing the ferrous particles without the use of clay.

These pads look like a "scuff" pad, but are not like a 3M scuff pad, they do not scuff.

It is referred to as an "insect pad" by the company, and very, very good for removing insect deposits after minor soaking of the deposits.

These pads may be used over and over and over, so quite a cost saving, plus if one drops it on the ground, they wash out.

Grumpy

Ketch,



That pad sounds like a valuable tool I ought to have in my arsenal, thanks! I personally haven`t removed ferrous deposits when I used ABC, I removed overspray paint particles. The system worked well, especially considering the vehicle is silver, and so was the overspray--being a bear of a time to spot anything left over, but being detectable by feel using a plastic bag over my hand. The system left the vehcile noticeable brighter as well, being a great base for full correction, and to get the best results out of the LSP. I`m sure Iron X and other like products provide a great base as well.

[Ron Ketcham]

Bill, if you go to ValuGard.net and click on Training Video`s, (they seem to be having some buffering concerns this morning), you can see the entire system, with the insect pad in use, etc.

While I was still with the company, I had a "kit` done for Mazda, Hyundia, Nissan, etc dealers.

The kit had all the products in the kit at the time.

Not sure what they are doing with it now, but if you call them, ask for a M-32 Decon Kit.

It`s the best way for people to get all the things they need, very simply.

Just a heads up for all who are following this subject.

Grumpy

[Bill D]

I have the 3 steps- very trusty kit to have, but next time I use it, I`m going to get that insect pad. The material its made of looks pretty interesting.

[Accumulator]

The acids in the Iron-X will not be good for the clay, try the ValuGard Insect Pad instead.

Save your self a lot of money and it lasts for car after car.

Grumpy

Heh heh, "A" and "B" aren`t too good for clay either!



I gotta try that bug pad next time...oughta just buy a few while I`m thinking of it, huh?

[Ron Ketcham]

No, they are not to good on the clay.

However, sometimes when I was in the field in some far away land, and we didn`t have the insect pad, very bad cars, had to use clay on the B product.

Just tore it up!

GM gave me a Caddy, down in Ramos Apries, Mexico a few years back, that had set outside the plant for three years.

The assembly plant was for Cavaliers, the Caddy was sent for the plant manager, and was down wind from a steel recycling plant.

The pretty metallic white car was actually a tan/brown in color and you could barely see out the windshield, that`s how bad it was.

Took me three hours and two bars of clay used with the ABC to get the car right.

Not worth it, come to find out as it was being shipped back to the states to be shredded as it was a test mule.

The plant manager was just testing me, come to find out later.

But by golly, I got it done and it was perfect when I was done.

Grumpy

[Bill D]

I would`ve had knots in my stomach upon learning that! They should`ve at least just donated the Caddy to you!

[Ron Ketcham]

We became friends after it was all over.

He was just testing out the old gringo.

Bought me great 5 course dinner and wine two days later.

Grumpy