Spots on Uncoated, Polish Aluminum Wheels

[JCz04Bimmer]

So I just got back from returning my cordless drill and got a 6amp Craftsman corded drill that can spin up to 2500rpm. Way faster than any cordless I was looking at. So, I`ve noticed that if I stick to ONE spot on the wheel for a solid minute going back and forth with the sprial wound wheel I got, it starts to fade the spots. Nothing miraculous. So, my next question is... what is a better product for this? I saw a kit at Sears that included a White Rouge compoud and a buffing wheel. Would that work a bit better than the Mother`s Billet? Is Mother`s Mag & Aluminum stronger than Billet? Basically, what I`m asking is what is more powerful than the stuff I`ve gotten? I want to avoid making an internet purchase as it`ll take a few days to get here. I wanna get this done already. So, white rouge? Something other than Billet? Wenol?

Thanks.

[rhillstr]

Okay first off the polishes you have been playing with are mostly chemical polishes. They do NOT remove pitting or heavy oxidation (easily) but are intended to chemically reverse light oxidation like the Tarn-x tv ads. They may or may not contain super fine micro abrasives but again, not strong enough. I had uncoated aluminum on my last car and had horrible deep pitting and oxidation from years of neglect (I did not know they were polished aluminum as I bought the car with the wheels and they were so tarnished I thought they were painted gray!) and years of Chicago road salts eating them alive. What I did was use the Mothers and though it reversed much oxidation and brought a modest shine, it did not touch heavy oxidation or pitting. Next on Steve`s advice I stepped up to his Pro polish (w/o carnuba) and WOW what an improvement! However, again I had a couple spots of discoloration and some pitting. I then went to wet sanding to remove the pits, back to pro to remove wet sand scratches (2000 grit) and buffing with the compound to create a brilliant shine. Looked like chrome when I was done!!

[JCz04Bimmer]

Ok, so I should stop screwing around with all these polishes? Thing is, I don`t feel any pitting in the wheel. It is PERFECTLY smooth to the touch. And I am very capable of feeling even the most minute of pits I think and there seem to be done. Also, they`ve only been neglected for about a month. Nothing overly insane. It looks more like staining than oxidation or pitting. Perhaps its oxidation but pitting, not so sure. In any event... for wet sanding... this can be done by hand right? And what`s the process for wet sanding... that is an area I am a complete Newbie in. Also, the compound you`re refering to "to creat a brilliant shine" is that the white rouge stuff I mentioned? Can I possibly just try that stuff FIRST before any sanding and see if it gets rid of the junk? It was only a 4.99 kit. Nothing to lose right?

EDIT: Again, does this kit (http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/alpolkit.htm) give me everything I`d need to tackle this without busting out some sandpaper which I don`t think I need in the first place? Thanks.

[rhillstr]

I would go with the Home Depot or Sears kit. They have smaller bars, are cheaper, and do the same job.... unless you want to polish a LOT of metal!!

As for wet sanding, I mentioned it only because I included it in my process (as a last resort) to DEEP pits. Feeling them was an understatement. You most likely do NOT need to wet sand. I would start with the white rouge for polishing and finish up with red or jeweler`s for extra shine, only if needed.

Try a cutting compound if the buffing fails. Again PB`s pro worked well and ssr1 should have a bit more bite. Don`t get too aggressive or you will be buffing for a while. If you do get the kit I linked, the black emery bar should be pretty aggressive too. Never actually used it before though.

Good luck and post some pics!!!!!!!

[JCz04Bimmer]

Sounds good. So I`m going to start with that white rouge bar and see how it turns out. After finishing up with that application, should I apply something like Mother`s Billet and Mag & Aluminum for the protective ingredients they have? When going at the wheel with a compound like white rouge, what is the process? Clean the metal, obviously. Spin the buffing wheel into the White Rouge to get it on there sparingly. Then just buff it into the wheel? How fast? Full speed @ 2500rpms? Then when a section is complete, wipe it off??

Thanks for thall the help guys.

[JCz04Bimmer]

Sounds good. So I`m going to start with that white rouge bar and see how it turns out. After finishing up with that application, should I apply something like Mother`s Billet and Mag & Aluminum for the protective ingredients they have? When going at the wheel with a compound like white rouge, what is the process? Clean the metal, obviously. Spin the buffing wheel into the White Rouge to get it on there sparingly. Then just buff it into the wheel? How fast? Full speed @ 2500rpms? Then when a section is complete, wipe it off??

Thanks for thall the help guys.

:wait

[togwt]

"The only problem with that is silicone and heat don`t mix, when the wheel gets hot from braking or highway driving the silicone will suck in moisture and then haze as it cools." Poorboy

"The only problem with that is silicone and heat don`t mix, when the wheel gets hot from braking or highway driving the silicone will suck in moisture and then haze as it cools." Poorboy

Interesting as I`ve always thought of Silicone as being both water and heat resistant.
Thanks for your insights

JonM


JonM

[rhillstr]

Before we get any further, we must deal with the good old definitiona again. Silicone is a Silicon-oxygen molecule and can have many subgroups (like arms) attached to it giving it a MASSIVELY wide range of properties! Some resist heat and water some absorb. To stick to anything it must be given functional groups (arms) that bond to things, and thus water will bond, or in this case get intermixed with the silicones creating an interface which reflects light... and thus a hazy look.

[togwt]

This is the reference I`ve been basing my articles on-From Wikipedia, the free encyclopaedia.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone

Silicones, or "polysiloxanes", are inorganic polymers consisting of a silicon-oxygen backbone (...-Si-O-Si-O-Si-O-...) with side groups attached to the silicon atoms. Certain organic side groups can be used to link two or more of these -Si-O- backbones together. By varying the -Si-O- chain lengths, side groups, and cross linking, silicones can be synthesized into a wide variety of materials. They can vary in consistency from liquid to gel to rubber. The most common type is linear polydimethylsiloxane or PDMS. The second largest group of silicone materials are based on silicone resins which are formed by branched and cage-like oligosiloxanes.

Silicones are odourless, colourless, water resistant, chemical resistant, and oxidation resistant, stable at high temperature, and do not conduct electricity. They have many uses, such as lubricants, adhesives, sealants, gaskets, breast implants, pressure compensating diaphragms for drip irrigation emitters, sex toys, and Silly Putty.

Silicone is often mistaken colloquially for elemental silicon, because of the similarity in pronunciation and spelling, but they are entirely different. For example, in the Shakira song "Objection (Tango)", the lyrics "next to her cheap silicon I look minimal" should be "next to her cheap silicone I look minimal."
JonM

[rhillstr]

Yep that is pretty much the in depth explanation I tried to summarize in plain english. Good work.

[togwt]

"The only problem with that is silicone and heat doesn’t mix, when the wheel gets hot from braking or highway driving the silicone will suck in moisture and then haze as it cools." Poorboy

Silicones are odourless, colorless, water resistant, chemical resistant, and oxidation resistant, stable at high temperature, and do not conduct electricity.

Not trying to start an argument but I just couldn’t reconcile the two.

Silicone and heat don`t mix /Silicones are....stable at high temperatures,
Silicones will suck in moisture / Silicones are ...water resistant.

No trees were harmed in the creation of this message. But billions of electrons, photons, and electromagnetic waves were terribly inconvenienced! :beer

[rhillstr]

The answer lies in my post, but to reiterate:
Silicones are lego building blocks. They have a BACKBONE of Silicon-oxygen polymers (with a few exceptions) but have functional groups attached to the backbone to create a product of useful properties. Some are fluid and used as lubricants. Some are soft and used in "gel" seats, etc. Some are solid and used in spatulas and other kitchen utensils. For auto use they are often given functional groups that bind ionically to clearcoat or paint. These groups also attract water. Additionally water can get trapped between molecules as well. All give a hazy appearance. Auto surfaces do not get as hot as wheels will and thus most finishes are not engineered to endure the temps wheels attain. Heat will loosen the molecules and allow water to get trapped or "sucked in" giving a hazy look.

[togwt]

We’ll have to agree to disagree on this one, not worth losing friends over…

�It’s only wax� :rockin

[rhillstr]

I`m open to discussion and would like to hear your thoughts. It definately doesn`t have to be an argument and no love lost here.
What do you feel is wrong and why?
Also what is your background on the subject.