Detailing process (revised)

**GregCavi** · 01-31-2005, 03:32 PM

Hello everyone

I posted not long ago saying i was gonna use ssr3 on my paint and I know that is way to strong. I ordered some #83 now and will be in tommaorw from napa. SO my new process is the below.

-Wash GC
(no clay it was done about a month ago)
-#83 via LC orange cut
-#9 if doesnt remove hazing then HT LC, If hazing still remains HT MC via LC white polishing pad
-VMx2 24 hours between coats? hand applied?
-EXPx? 24 hours between . hand applied?
-TSX3 or so

Is this a reasonable attack plan. The car is my red cavalier. First time removing all the spider webs.

Thanks

Greg

**tubafeak** · 01-31-2005, 03:34 PM

You shouldn`t need nearly that long for the VM, 30 minutes should be more than enough.

**Woob** · 01-31-2005, 03:41 PM

#83 or MC to #9 or LC. VM once then EXPx2 then TSx3

**GregCavi** · 01-31-2005, 06:50 PM

Originally Posted by The Woob

#83 or MC to #9 or LC. VM once then EXPx2 then TSx3

awesome thanks alot! What products should i do by hand?

greg

**Jngrbrdman** · 01-31-2005, 07:07 PM

I wouldn`t ever suggest skipping the clay just because it was done a month ago. Clay should be done on a `need at the time` basis. I clayed my car and then three days later got hit by some overspray from a steel processing building. Sometimes there is a need to clay more often than others. As long as you are going to do a full detail then it is worth checking. It will only take 10 minutes if the car doesn`t really need it that bad.

Anything that doesn`t involve swirl removal can generally be used by hand. Because of the speed needed to generate the heat required to break down the abrasives, it is best to use a PC or similar tool to polish the paint. Waxes, sealants and glazes are easy to apply by hand and merely faster to apply by PC. The only thing I use by hand anymore is clay and paste wax.

**GregCavi** · 01-31-2005, 07:21 PM

Originally Posted by Jngrbrdman

I wouldn`t ever suggest skipping the clay just because it was done a month ago. Clay should be done on a `need at the time` basis. I clayed my car and then three days later got hit by some overspray from a steel processing building. Sometimes there is a need to clay more often than others. As long as you are going to do a full detail then it is worth checking. It will only take 10 minutes if the car doesn`t really need it that bad.

Anything that doesn`t involve swirl removal can generally be used by hand. Because of the speed needed to generate the heat required to break down the abrasives, it is best to use a PC or similar tool to polish the paint. Waxes, sealants and glazes are easy to apply by hand and merely faster to apply by PC. The only thing I use by hand anymore is clay and paste wax.

Clay it is then. thanks for the tips. So i can use Vm glaze by pc? would i use a polishing or finishing pad for that? I guess im just confused on what to use to apply EXP and VM with. I prefer buffer. SO any further suggestions would be great.

Thanks

Greg

**Eliot Ness** · 01-31-2005, 08:37 PM

Originally Posted by GregCavi

.......So i can use Vm glaze by pc? would i use a polishing or finishing pad for that? I guess im just confused on what to use to apply EXP and VM with.......

VM works great by PC with a polish pad. I also like to use the PC to apply EX-P (with a finishing pad), I find I can apply a thinner coat with the PC than by hand.

**GregCavi** · 01-31-2005, 09:36 PM

Originally Posted by Eliot Ness

VM works great by PC with a polish pad. I also like to use the PC to apply EX-P (with a finishing pad), I find I can apply a thinner coat with the PC than by hand.

I love the thin coats as well just wanted to make sure it was ok.

Thanks

Greg