You could always follow up SSR2.5 on a cutting pad with SSR2.5 on a polishing pad. That will remove the having. VM does more filling than polishing, so it would be just a cover-up.
You could always follow up SSR2.5 on a cutting pad with SSR2.5 on a polishing pad. That will remove the having. VM does more filling than polishing, so it would be just a cover-up.
"The trouble is that you think you have time." - Jack Kornfeld
Yeah, i thought VM was more of a wax than a polish.Originally Posted by Scott P
If you can get to a napa do so and buy some 3m imperial machine glaze. It`s an excellent polish with minimal fillers and should work well with your PC.
The other question you asked VM for a one step? NO it has no protective qualities. It is a great glaze though!!!
man, is glaze and polish the same? I bought SSR2.5 and vm and EX-P hopefully to replace the other steps I use.Originally Posted by Dewey325
man I am even more confused. This is what I have.
s100 wax
s100 pre cleaner
Meguairs 3 step ( hate step 1 and 2, step 3 is ok)
EX-p
VM
SSR2.5
Mothers Pre cleaner
3m swirl mark remove for dark cars
3m compound
Porter Cable 7424
Orange LC pad
White LC pad
Black LC pad
white pad that came with pc
What I am trying to do is remove the swirls/ webbing ( whatever you call it). Then I want to polish the car and then put a sealer on it that will last for a couple of months. I do use quite a bit of Eagles quick and shine between washes. I like to use it after washes because it gives my car a nice pop.
do i use that to remove the hazing? I would prefer to remove the hazing instead of covering it up. Also what about the s100 pre cleaner. I thought I was suspose to use that before the ssr2.5.Originally Posted by Josh
should it be ssr2.5, precleaner, vm, ex-p?
sorry guys for being a rookie. I have done tons of reading I just dont want to go out a buy every combonation. I thought I had selected the best swirl remover, polish and sealer.
I don`t want to use any SSR -- or even the PC at this point -- because the condition of the (new) car paint is such that I think it`s more likely I will NOT improve on the "look" using those items.Originally Posted by tdekany
Now, for mom`s 10-year old 1994 Camry that was never taken care of, I noticed a big improvement. Ditto dad`s 3-year old Mitshubishi Galant.
I need to get better with the PC but will eventually use it on the Civic. Sure as heck don`t want to experiment with a Corvette when I get back into that! lol
I hope that Poorboy has another Detailing Day in `05 that I can attend. I need to see someone who`s good at using a PC 7424 do all the different steps, SSR`ing, polishing, maybe even applying AIO/SG/EX-P with the PC. I couldn`t even get the elastic polishing pads that go over the pads with the Sonus line....so I did that step by hand a few months ago.
"Marge...weaseling out of things is what separates us from the animals. Except the weasel." - Homer Simpson
Interesting. I have used SSR2.5 with a LC cutting pad on two vehicles in the last three weeks. Much to my surprise, this combo did NOT produce any noticeable hazing. The paint almost looked good enough after the SSR2.5 to go straight to a sealant/wax. I did go over it again with SSR1 on one vehicle, and AIO on the other, both with excellent results.
Pre cleaners are polishes in general.Originally Posted by 00GREENMACHINE
You can do ssr2.5 with white (my choice) or orange pad (speed 6) and follow with 3M SMR or s100 pre cleaner white pad (speed 5) and a sealant or x2 with gray pad
that is it.
Originally Posted by 00GREENMACHINE
out of what you have
most aggressive ssr 2.5 (STEP 1)
less aggressive - any pre cleaner (STEP 2)
then a wax or sealant
BTW< you have very good products, no need to buy more - just use what you have.
I liked Meg`s step 1 and 2 by hand - good stuff.
Sorry you are wrong - you can always improve the look of paint.Originally Posted by HondaMan
This was done by hand on a 4 months old BMW 330i
- Q&EW
- Autopia clay
- AIO
- IHG
- AMINO UV Polymer wax
after
Last edited by JaredPointer; 11-16-2004 at 09:11 AM. Reason: fixed quote tag
im with tdekeny on this one... even if your car is new, it will look considerably better with a clay and a good polishing and sealing....
The best comment of my life.......
"Just because something is on sale, doesn`t mean that you have to buy it. " awd330
I have used 2.5 only once so far and I got hazing w/ a white CMA polishing pad. It seems the main reason for the hazing is not working 2.5 enough. Are you saying you can get hazing by working it too long. Whats the best way to tell if it is worked enough before hazing occurs?Originally Posted by tdekany
the 3m machine glaze should remove your hazing. It removed some nasty hazing i got from a rubbing compound on a bright red so... it should work for you.
Come on bro, just gimme some of them bubbles, aw bro, why you gotta be so shellfish?
Yea you have great products- Use the 2.5, if it hazes go to a softer pad and do it again
then the VM, then the EX-P You should love the results. The only thing I do is add a Polish between the 2.5 and VM. I use 1Z einszett Paint Polish. Then if you want to get fancy top the EX-P with s100! I like Natty`s better than s100 but since you have s100 it will work fine.
Actually, that`s not quite true. VM does have some wax in it. It isn`t the best choice for a one step product, but it can play that role if it needs to.Originally Posted by Dewey325
"The trouble is that you think you have time." - Jack Kornfeld
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