a few rotary observations (and questions)

[jason rawls]

Well, I just finished doing some minor experimentation with my new rotary and have a couple of observations. I started out fumbling around with it a little on my wife`s white Corsica, but that was pretty much a waste of time. Very hard to see swirls and scratches on white paint much less see what I`m doing with the buffer. So I went on ahead and dabbled a little bit on the hood of my black Expedition since I didn`t do any noticeable damage on my wife`s car.

Anyway, since I`m so used to using a PC this was a totally different experience. The rotary pretty much does what it wants to do and slings everywhere! I also noticed that the product dries and begins to dust with only one pass, whereas a PC would take multiple passes to do the same thing. I feared that since the product broke down so quickly I would end up dry buffing some areas and swirl the paint up.

Here are a few questions I have based on my observations:

How much product should I be using on a given area?

Is it normal for the product to brake down with one pass and does this mean I should stop?

What is the best way to avoid sling? I have heard people say something about tilting the pad a little but I`ve also heard you should keep the pad flat to avoid damaging the paint.
:dunno

How do you clean excess sling that won`t simply wipe off? I have a few specks of dust that just don`t seem to want to come off.

Thanks,
Jason

[groebuck]

You describe my first experience to a T - what I have gathered since then (all of a week and a half) -

Try using your PC pads on the rotary to get the hang of it - they are much easier to control. Sling is a part of rotary life (but much less with the smaller pads and if you spread the product on your work area with the pad and the rotary off - you get much less) - so taping off trim is essential (and using newspaper or what not to mask off your glass).

Product breaks down MUCH faster with the rotary - even at low RPMs (I dared not to go above 1200). Definatley work in 2`x2` sections - with the rotary I apply the product to the surface and spread it with the pad at an angle (rotary off of course). Work the product until it looks like it`s gone (polishes, glazes and what not will dissapear quick - heavier abrasives will last longer but that`s just because there is more to break down).

Sling clean up - if you have those tiny dried product dots - I use an APC and if that does not work try AIO or Vanilla Moose or even SSR or Pro Polish (worse case try a citrus based cleaner meant for tar and big removal from paint). Be sure and treat the trim if you go that route.

Good Luck!

[kimwallace]

To help with the product usage it is important to prime the pad before you begin.
I usually run a bead of product in the shape of an X on the pad before starting.
If it dries too quickly, add a light spray of Final Inspection or water ...
DO NOT use a QD with silicone in it for this!
Some products you should buff to a haze and othere like Meguiars SFP you want to stop before it dries.
As you are buffing and when you need to pick up more product:
Place about a 5 -7 inch line of product on the car going left to right ...
Place the buffer on the right side of the line ...
Tilt it up slightly at approximately the 10:00 position ...
With the buffer at a slow speed move it right to left over the product ...
Then proceed to buff with it as flat as possible
When you get the hang of this, you will not need to slow it down!
To remove dried up specs, try using Final Inspection or Poorboys S&W.
Check out www.meguiars.com ... there is a good tutorial there on using a rotary.
Keep practicing and experimenting and soon you will wonder how you got along without the rotary.
Good Luck!

[jason rawls]

So one x on the pad will cover a 2x2 section? Maybe this was part of my problem since I was spreading it a little thinner than that. I guess I`m just used to my PC where the product spreads thinner since it doesn`t break down as fast. By the time I made one or two passes the product had already dusted and was being wiped off with the pad - I`m sure this is a no no. Should I be buffing until the product begins to dust or should I quit before it dries too much?

Oh yea, one more question: How much pressure should I apply to the buffer and what rpm setting should I use for defect removal and which setting for the final polish/swirl removal?