I had a similar question about the proper follow up to DACP (similar to SSR2.5). You can`t go to sealant from SSR2 or 2.5 or DACP without first following up with SSR1.
I use SSR1 for everything. Gonna do my laundry with it today.
I had a similar question about the proper follow up to DACP (similar to SSR2.5). You can`t go to sealant from SSR2 or 2.5 or DACP without first following up with SSR1.
I use SSR1 for everything. Gonna do my laundry with it today.
Cliff Claven is my hero
2007 Silver Accord EX
1999 Silver F-150 XLT
I totally agree that detailing is all in the prepwork!Originally posted by 2drtahoez71
ok, well i wouldnt wax/seal after SSR2.5 obviously, but can you wax/seal after SSR2? I mean i know you CAN, but for optimal results should you step down to SSR1, or does SSR2 bascially turn into SSR1 as the abrasives breakdown?
However, here is some food for thought...
If you work SSR2 long enough it will not leave a haze and will leave a finish ready surface. Again folks, the abrasives break down and if you work it long enough the end product is IDENTICAL to SSR1. You must remember to work a small area so as the product breaks down and gets smaller, all the work area gets buffed with it. I rarely use SSR1. I intially work an area to see if the scratches will be removed with it, then if they are not I proceed to step up to SSR2 and finish my paint correction there. I have not used 2.5 yet so I cannot comment if it works down to a finish ready shine as well. Now then if the finish is not perfect I will hit it wil Pro Polish, which is what it`s intended for. You can use SSR1, but from SSR2 to PP you save a step and IMHO get an equivalent (if not better) finish using PP. You can reference my Ferrari pics if you would like the see the end result. Nick, I have seen your work and you do a fantastic job. Keep it up!
Also, I use a polishing pad (white LC) with SSR2. Many use a cutting pad and THAT may be why you end with a finish that is a bit hazy. Steve always said, "let the product do the work" so I tried his suggestion of a polishing pad instead of cutting and I`ve never gone back! I use cutting if and only if I need more aggressive correction.
Ask a question, be a fool for a minute. Don`t ask a question, be a fool forever.
-Chinese Proverb
Detailing is not a procedure where you follow your regimen blindly. You have to have an algorithm where you do a step, ask yourself where do I go from here and do it. Thus if your car needs SSR2, polish with it then step back and look at the product. The surface should glossy and perfect as if it has been waxed already when you finish polishing. If it`s looks complete, seal/wax it. If not continue polishing using whatever you deem necessary.Originally posted by freedre
I had a similar question about the proper follow up to DACP (similar to SSR2.5). You can`t go to sealant from SSR2 or 2.5 or DACP without first following up with SSR1.
I use SSR1 for everything. Gonna do my laundry with it today.
Over time you get a sense of where to go after each step. Until then use trial and error. See what SSR1 does after SSR2 with your pads, buffer, and technique!
Ask a question, be a fool for a minute. Don`t ask a question, be a fool forever.
-Chinese Proverb
Right,
Sometimes on some colors SSR 2 will leave a ready to wax finish.
Same with DACP.
However when I want a car to look its absolute best, I will take that extra step and use SSR 1.
Each person must decide for themselves what look you want to achieve
It`s what you learn after you know it all that counts ... John Wooden
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