General process description to my customers...

[The Driver]

So I wrote this up for my customers on some of the sites I`m on. How does this look? Keep in ind I obviously didn`t write down all the little misc stuff like, using q-tips, cleaning the exhaust, cleaning grills, dying wheel wells or using ridiculous amount of MF towels, haha.

The Process & Time

Phase I

Decontamination aka "Prep"

1. Citrus Wash, Foam Canon, Power rinse.
Using citrus to break down all the topical elements such as bugs, dirt, tar, iron, bird droppings etc. The citrus breaks down everything gently, it also strips the old wax so the polish and new wax can be applied with out bonding conflict. 30 mins

2. Citrus Wash Scrub, Rinse.
Car was rewashed again, this time by hand to remove any fixed/stuck debris on the car such as tar or caked on dirt. 30 mins

3. Wheels, Wheel wells, +Dye (Later)
Wheels sprayed with Sonax, Scrubbed, drums cleaned inside an out. Wheel wells scrubbed clean. 45 mins - 1 hour

4. Soak, Clay.
The whole car is soaked, when the car is wet it is properly clayed with a proper selected density clay (Soft, Medium, Hard). Every body panel that is paint is completely clayed. Claying removes imbedded contaminants that wash mits cannot remove, think of it as removing dead skin like an exfoliator for your car. 45 mins - 1 hour

5. Full Strip, Bleeding, Removing elements.
Car is completely sprayed with CarPro Trix, this literally makes the paint bleed out all the metals imbedded in the paint, especially the ones that have bonded and cannot be removed even by clay. The car literally bleeds, the red bleeding color is chemicals reacting with Tar, Iron and other metallic elements. This is very good for cars that are regularly "pushed hard". CarPro trix strips away one of the most detrimental things to a car, brake dust. All cars shed brake dust, especially high performance cars with large rotors and calipers. This process removes all metallic elements off a surface and the added bonus of eating away lovely highway road tar. 30 mins

6. Final Wash, Scrub, Rinse, Full dry.
Car is again completely washed with citrus, this time scrubbing off all the chemicals applied before, leaving a perfect contaminant free surface which is rinsed and then fully dried by a touch less air dry unit. All cracks and crevices are completely blown out to no runs lines from stagnant water. 20 mins

Phase II

Polish aka "Perfection" - The hard part

7. Inspection & Diagnosis. The car is completely inspected under special lighting, the marks and paint analyzed, a list of polishes are then assorted from highest to lowest cut. Pads are selected, machines are also chosen depending on the job needed. 30 mins-1 hr.

8. Taping up loose ends. Rubber trim as well as other parts don`t fare well when it comes to high speed polishers and the abrasives they lay down. As a result all the cars parts that aren`t being polished are taped up using a special 3m automotive take designed for detailing.

9. Polishing begins, car panels are polished over 1 by 1, graduating polishes until the desired "flawless, mirror, wet look" is achieved. 4 - 60 hours

9. Exterior Parts Refinished
During the polishing process it`s important that everything everything looks fresh, smooth and reflective. This means the taillights, brake lights, hazed head lights, window trim and other misc parts that can be perfected are. Most detailers will charge extra for this, as a perfectionist I can`t do one thing an not do the rest. 45 mins - 2 hrs

10. Top Inspection
The name says it all, using Menzerna`s Top inspection the car is completely sprayed down. The top inspection shows fingerprints and missed areas. It`s also an AIO Cleaner. It is then wiped down, removing all excess polish leaving the car looking rich, deep and polished. 20 mins

11. Wax or Sealant (Your choice)
Hand paste wax is applied, by hand. To add depth and a richer color. This will provide months of protection from the sun, rain and other elements as well keeping the car cleaner for longer periods of time. Sealants do the same but last longer, however they don`t provide as rich of a look. 1 - 1.5 hours

Phase III

Final Touches

12. Exterior dye
All parts that are rubber, plastic or composite are dyed if they are faded. They are brought back to a new deep, dark wet look. 30 mins

13. Interior strip
Completely vacuumed, rugs removed and vacuumed. All garbage thrown out. Interior/seat gaps are brushed out and vacuumed. 30 - 45 mins

14. Interior Clean
Everything sprayed with cleaner, removing grime in cup holders, bins and pockets. Tachometer and other dash parts thoroughly cleaned and wiped down. Roof is also wiped down or brushed depending on material. Seats completely brushed, wiped and reconditioned depending on material 1-2 hours

15. Interior Dye
Once everything is clean, a nice subtle protective layer is sprayed on the hard interior surfaces. This give a nice shine to the interior, note this is not crappy oil shine this is a subtle high end almost oem look, it`s wet but not oily or too much shine. 45 mins - 1 hr

16. Full wipe down
Lastly, Everything is wiped down with an all natural, non petroleum base cleaner. To make sure no wax, polish or dye is on anything. The door jams and all crevices are wiped down to remove any excess dirt and/or water. 20 - 45 mins

17. Glass
Last and certainly one of the most tricky things to clean is glass. Both inside and out are wiped down with an all natural tin safe cleaner that leaves a flawless streak free finish. The glass is also polished with lusso cleaner to give it that extra shine and protection. 20 mins

[Custom Care]

As a new detailer I appreciate the depth of your write up. However, for the average customer I think it may possibly be a little too much. Just my 2c

[Bunky]

I understand your intent but I would suggest simplifying it with a sentence or so for each category. You can remove specific products used since I assume you want to tailor your process over time.

For 12 and 15, I do no think you are using a dye (something that is just a colorant). You are using trim restorers and protectants.

[BobbyG]

This would be a great poster for the shop and a testament to your intellect and dedication to the art of detailing...Seriously, very well written...

Something like this might be more appealing to the customer.

Complete detail including

• exterior wash,
• remove bugs & road tar,
• clay,
• buff, & hand wax exterior paint,
• clean & dress rims, tires, & wheel wells;
• clean door jambs, detail all cracks & crevices.
• Vacuum interior,
• steam clean all carpets, floor mats & upholstery;
• clean & condition leather/vinyl, detail dash, clean headliner,
• air freshener.

Another thing to be careful of is your use of words. You touch on "Perfection" and its interpretation can be different from person to person..

[The Driver]

As a new detailer I appreciate the depth of your write up. However, for the average customer I think it may possibly be a little too much. Just my 2c

I agree, however I have the pleasure of dealing with pretty high scale clientele 90% of the time. Being on long Island, especially on the north shore the customer base is ridiculous. I`ve done some old schools cars here an there but other wise I only detail cars that are essentially worth their weight against the products I use, unless it`s a friends car or something. I love being able to work for customers who are educated in car care and appreciate a detailer who knows his stuff and is always in relentless pursuit of the best possible outcome. Almost all my customers are like that and I definitely feel VERY lucky to have that.

If you`ve never seen the north shore of LI, especially in the summer and fall your missing out. Just a fun example

Pix from Americana manhasset last year. Perfect place to grab clients and demo my work. I`m working on getting my hands on a CCX next

[The Driver]

I understand your intent but I would suggest simplifying it with a sentence or so for each category. You can remove specific products used since I assume you want to tailor your process over time.

For 12 and 15, I do no think you are using a dye (something that is just a colorant). You are using trim restorers and protectants.

I definitely as my process always comes before time. I work on a base rate unless the circumstances/level of correction is severe.

Thats a very good point on the dye, I`ll change that one for sure.