Need some Advice

**BaDm0theR** · 03-24-2004, 10:19 PM

Calling all pro`s, experienced detailers and enthusiasts alike.

I come here to ask/verify a new important detail questions & inquiries i have for a client that i will be working for this upcoming weekdn (if weather complies with us).

The car: I am going to be working on a 2003 Mercedes C230 Kompressor with a Jet black clearcoated finish. The car is kept outside exposed to the elements, and although it has been detailed in the past, i must say the C230 is quite neglected. The paint exhibits mildto light swirl markings throughout the car, and other minute scratches/blemishes too.

The Products:With that said, i plan to be using my PC for the first time (7424) with its complimentary Meguiars pads (foam cutting pad, foam polishing pad, and foam finish pad).
The 3 step process will be utilizing Meg`s PPC, followed by Meg`s #9 Swirl remover/polish and finally topped of with NXT (i will also use MPPP on a different panel for means of comparison).

The Questions: If you guys/gals can help me with the following, it would be much appreciated.

#1) Would i be safe using the Meg`s cutting pad w/MPPC, Meg`s polish for #9 swirl remover and Meg`s finishing pad for application of NXT/MPPP? Please give me concrete feedback and detailed suggestions.

#2) Ive read alot of different opinions on the `amount` of product that should be placed on the pad.....too much is never a good thing. My question is.....how much is enough for exceptional results? I was thinking about dabbing about 3-4 dime sized portions on the pad and using that? Is this a reasonable amount, and suggestions?

#3) What speeds would you recomend for each of the steps/products i described above? I want to be on the safer side, perhaps i should go with a lower speed to prevent heat and possible `overworknig` the paint?

#4) As far as tapping off the trim and other objects around the car to prevent them from getting wax/polish on them....what is your best recomendation as far as quality tape? Do i even need to tape off the exterior trim?

Any other tips, suggestions or comments aer GREATLY appreciated....i want to be as clear and as resourcefullas possible when i proceed in beautifying this car. Im confident that i can safely remove the oxidation/swirls and scratches and leave an outstanding showroom finish.....im just a little apprehensive (hence all my questions) b/c im used to working by hand for such a long time.

Thanks in advance!!!!

:cool

**BaDm0theR** · 03-24-2004, 10:36 PM

Here are some before pics when i met the client.

**BaDm0theR** · 03-24-2004, 10:38 PM

Some swirls/blemishes

**BaDm0theR** · 03-24-2004, 10:39 PM

More...

Hood....notice all the caked on water spots etc....

**BaDm0theR** · 03-24-2004, 10:39 PM

Wheel...yucky!

**BaDm0theR** · 03-24-2004, 10:40 PM

Hood closup...

**BaDm0theR** · 03-24-2004, 10:41 PM

Rear 3/4 shot.......

**BaDm0theR** · 03-24-2004, 10:42 PM

Trunk lid.....good lord look at those water spots!!!

**BaDm0theR** · 03-24-2004, 10:42 PM

Last one , i swear

Dirty windshield !

**Woob** · 03-25-2004, 12:40 AM

:wait Whoa! Thats alot of water spots! In my view, #9 is not gonna give a good punch swirl/water spot removal wise. I would think you would get 30% out and another 40-50% swirl removal from NXT. Grab some DACP at least. That car is gonna need an okay prep, since your using NXT which can aid you.

Definitely clean that car, you might be able to take those caked on water spots

1) You should be fine with a cutting pad, but your only cleaning the surface, I doubt there is no abrasives (maybe a little)

2) I remember watching a Meguiars buffer video that suggested using an X form of the product on the pads. I`m not sure on the reaction for too much or to little product

3) Don`t run below 3.5, I remember a member on the board who ran #9 (i think) and actually caused marring because the diminishing abrasives didn`t break down. Run at 4 - 5, you wil be safe

4) I would tape off the areas where you use MPPC or MPPP, I hear it creates some nasting white burns on there.

Hope I could help! :jump

**NEW AGAIN** · 03-25-2004, 02:08 AM

Handwash and rinse
Clay the vehicle
Handwash again and dry
Tape molding, trims and badges

DACP / W8006 @ 5.5 WITH PC Work this product well using the cross hatch method

SFP - SR 2.0 / W8006 @5.0 WITH PC Work this product well using the cross hath method

NXT - MPPP / W9006 @ 4.0

Check this site out VERY HELPFUL bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums/detailing/forum.php?postid=1430487&page=1

I dont think you need the W7006 try W8006 first. Always work in well lighted area and out of the SUN. As for the glass stoner is a good product[AUTOZONE] spray the product on the rag not the window i use the two towel method one to clean and one to dry

**BaDm0theR** · 03-25-2004, 05:28 PM

Thx for the help....anyone else have suggestions tooo?

Im open for thoughts...

**central** · 03-25-2004, 07:23 PM

edit: opps, dont want to hijack.. will start new thread

**JeffBruce** · 03-25-2004, 08:09 PM

Water spots.
http://www.autopia.org/forums/showth...ht=Water+spots

**dr_detail** · 03-25-2004, 08:14 PM

For the the water spots, use some wheel acid* in the following method:

In the non direct sun, fill a bucket with water and put in it two towels. Using the towels saturated with water, on one apply the wheel acid to the wet towel, work it around for about 30 seconds (do not let it dry ). With the other towel, wipe the spot you just did using lots of water as a rinse. Keep the acid towel saturated with water, and rinse the other on in the bucket often. Work the whole car using this method. when you are done, wash and proceed to detail as normal. It might also be a good idea to wear some rubber gloves.

You might try this first on your car if you don`t believe it will work, I too was skeptical when shown this method, but today for me, it sure does beat the hours involved with the old fangled buff and cuss method.

*the type formulated for wire spoke wheels and chrome.