It`s official. I`m a rank amateur...

[CARTfan]

Just used my new Makita rotary today on my dad`s 2005 Escape and had some issues with it. Well, not really with IT, but the polish I used. I tried M105 for the first time on an orange LC CCS smart pad and the compound kept caking up on me. I tried using a greater and lesser amount, still caking, which would lead to chattering. I think it may have been that I spread the polish too thin, causing it to dry on the paint before I was able to hit it with the buffer, but if I didn`t, it would sling like mad. I switched to SSR 2.5 and it worked like a charm. I tried another pad too, with and without spritzing it with a quick detailer (S&G) before starting. Anyone have any ideas of what I may have been doing wrong?

[Troy@Protekt]

105 does have a shorter working time then the SSR2.5. What speed was the polisher set on? I tend to slow my buffer down when using 105. My FLEX on 5 and rotary at 1000.

How big of section were you trying to do? Trying to work on too big of area will cause this.

Also weather plays a part in how a polish will perform. Humidity here in Florida can really affect polishes but I wouldn`t see that as a problem for you there.

Some have mixed other polishes in for longer working times with the 105 to get it to buff longer. It will lessen the cutting power but still might be a good option for you. I myself have used 105 to add polishing power to Poorboy`s Polish with Sealant and it works well. If you do this don`t expect it to cut as well as 105 by itself but it will cut quite a bit better than PwS by itself.

[tuscarora dave]

I had some issues with hopping and chattering when I first used my makita. I was using SSR 2.5 though which did not cake up on me. I believe in my case it was simply that I was just not used to using the rotary(holding it too tight). After using it on a few more details I got the hang of it and no more hopping and chattering. As for the 105, I can`t comment because I have never used it before. I have had caking isues with other Meg`s polishes with my Cyclo that is why I finally broke down and made my first Poorboys World order. When I used the SSR 2.5 for the first time, I saw no reason to turn to any other brand. I still am impressed every time I use the PB line of products. TD

[Bunky]

In my use of M105 with a DA, M105 had a very short working time (3 passes). I had started with a 5-in LC CCS pad but switched to a larger 6.5 flat LC polishing pad and it worked much better. It does not need much pressure or even speed to do what it does. I also had to clean the pad after every other panel.

[blk45]

Just used my new Makita rotary today on my dad`s 2005 Escape and had some issues with it. Well, not really with IT, but the polish I used. I tried M105 for the first time on an orange LC CCS smart pad and the compound kept caking up on me. I tried using a greater and lesser amount, still caking, which would lead to chattering. I think it may have been that I spread the polish too thin, causing it to dry on the paint before I was able to hit it with the buffer, but if I didn`t, it would sling like mad. I switched to SSR 2.5 and it worked like a charm. I tried another pad too, with and without spritzing it with a quick detailer (S&G) before starting. Anyone have any ideas of what I may have been doing wrong?

Especially if you are learning to use the rotary, I don`t care for the orange LC pad. The older ones were a little softer and wouldn`t hop, but the recent versions are a little stiffer and have a tendency to hop a bit. The foam being a little bit stiffer, when the pad isn`t totally flat, will try to "bite" into the surface. This is exaggerated by the fact that you still haven`t got the "feel" for the rotary and you usually "force" it around, instead of guiding it. A PFW is MUCH easier to use. It helps ease the learning curve with the rotary, does some good correction and leaves a pretty good finish. It will "flow" over the paint much easier.

Now to the 105. It sounds like you are trying to spread it like a conventional polish/compound. 105 doesn`t work that way. It flashes too quickly. I don`t know if you have the newer or older version. I use and love the older (original) version. The new version has a longer working time, because people were complaining that it flashed too quickly. But it also has a little less cut. Anyways....work on small sections at a time.

Make sure your pad is clean. Don`t prime it with a QD or water. Lay down a bead on the paint. Set your rotary to your desired rpm (I use 1500 - speed 3) and "hit the ground running" so to speak. Pick the bead up and start working immediately. Don`t try to spread it. It doesn`t work that way. With the original version, it literally takes me 8-12 seconds to do a polishing cycle or pass, depending on what you call it. Also, 105 doesn`t leave a "film" behind. Conventional polishes go "clear or opaque", but you can still see them on the surface. When used correctly, 105 doesn`t. It literally looks like you don`t have anything to wipe off.

Luckily for me, I "got it" with 105 the first time I used it. I personally think it is the greatest compound/polish made right now. Others have a little more difficult time getting the hang of it, but even if it takes you a little bit, I think it is worth it. It is a great product that is extremely versatile.

Another thing that I just noticed. If you corrected them with SSR2.5, you could easily do it with 105 on a white LC pad. I have actually replaced my "medium" polish with this combo. The white pad is a lot more forgiving, so you shouldn`t have any hop issues. 105 on an orange pad is going to remove quite a bit of paint rather quickly, so try a less aggressive method before stepping up to the orange or PFW.

Nothing against the SSRs, as they are great polishes that are very user friendly, but they (and other conventional polishes) can`t finish in under 20 seconds. You have to break them down properly and that takes time. I`m all about achieving the same final product in less time. Work smarter not harder.

Good luck and let us know how it works out for you.

[Garry Dean]

There is enough info here to completely solve your problem!

[CARTfan]

^ I`ll say. I was actually trying to use it like a conventional polish by spreading it around first. Which sounds like it is likely the problem.

So, if I don`t spread it, how do I keep it from slinging all over?


Troy, I was working a 2`x1` area at first, then went down to a 1`x1` area after I experienced issues. I tried everything from about 800 to 2100 RPM`s and it was the same at all speeds, just to a lesser extent at the slower RPM`s.

BLK, neither the 105, nor the 2.5 with the orange pad removed all the defects. I tried SSR 3 with an orange pad, and that removed 100% of the defects, but left a haze that needed to be removed (as expected), but I didn`t want to add another step as I got started 2 hours after I would`ve wanted. I figure the 2.5 and 105 removed about 85% of the defects and I was ok with that. This paint was hard as hell, which I guess is a good thing...not like my Subaru.

I did finish the job with a white pad and SSR 1, and I love this machine. Just need to get a handle on the other compounds.

Thanks everyone for all your input, I appreciate you guys sharing your expertise.

[CARTfan]

Hey guys. Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I was wondering if any of you who has chimed in before and have used M105 could help me with it`s initial application. Blk45 said not to spread it, and just hit the ground running. Won`t that result in tons of slinging, or do you simply keep it at minimum speed, pick up the bead and then turn it up? Thanks for any help!

[Troy@Protekt]

For a 2x2 area use a 6" line of product (1/4" bead).

Come at the line of product from the left and introduce it to your pad at about the 10 o`clock position (imagining you are looking down at your pad and it is a clock).

By slightly lifting that 10 o`clock edge you will allow the product to come into the pad without any sling. No reduced speed is necessary.

[AutopiaAdmin]

For a 2x2 area use a 6" line of product (1/4" bead).

Come at the line of product from the left and introduce it to your pad at about the 10 o`clock position (imagining you are looking down at your pad and it is a clock).

By slightly lifting that 10 o`clock edge you will allow the product to come into the pad without any sling. No reduced speed is necessary.

Very good. You remembered what I taught you.

[Troy@Protekt]

Very good. You remembered what I taught you.

That`s funny. That`s not how I remember it.