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  1. #1

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    LSP’ing wheels and tires

    Hopefully this weekend I am going to make my first attempt at LSP’ing our tires and wheels.

    For tires I have McKee’s 37 tire coating and Mother’s back to black rubber rejuvenator to clean with.

    For the wheels I have some wheel wax I got in sale. Thought about buying a coating, but I want to read more on how to do it before I attempt it....so I just bought wheel wax. I also have some mother’s aluminum polish as well.

    I know the best way to do it is to pull the wheel and tire from the vehicle, but I do not have the tools available for that so this will need done on the vehicle.

    Question one: after throughly cleaning both which should be LSP’d first, the wheel or the tire?

    Question 2: when applying the LSP step to the wheels. I plan on using Iron X as part of the cleaning step - just to put that out there. As I said I have both mother’s aluminum polish and some wheel wax. Should I polish first with the mother’s and then apply the wheel wax. Or is the mother’s aluminum polish already a LSP? Or should I just clean them and use the wheel wax?

    Question 3: for the inside barrel of the wheels....since I can’t pull the wheel to clean and LSP, this is just going to be a PITA isn’t it? Any tips?

    Question 4: once I have the McKee’s on should I in a month or so or never top it with 303 protectant?


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  2. #2

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    Re: LSP’ing wheels and tires

    Question 5: once the wheels are LSP’d during my wash process should I use brake buster to clean, or will that render the wheel wax LSP worthless the first use?

    Question 6: Of I were to use a product such as Beadmaker as a drying agent, can this be used on the wheels and tires during drying?


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  3. #3
    Dan's Avatar
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    Re: LSP’ing wheels and tires

    Your car doesn`t have a jack and a spare tire? I can`t see not taking the wheels off. If you haven`t opened the wheel wax, IMO, take it back and just use your favorite product. Wheel waxes are nothing more than marketing of a mediocore product.

  4. #4

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    Re: LSP’ing wheels and tires

    Astouffer512- I really do think you oughta pull `em off, for a number of reasons, but I`ll spare you that lecture

    What Dan said about the "Wheel Wax". IMO if you`re not Coating them you oughta use something known to be durable like FK1000P.

    Are the wheels BARE ALUMINUM? Very important Q as using stuff made for Bare Aluminum on anything else will cause serious damage (as in, can ruin them, requiring refinishing).

    If the *are* bare aluminum (which is extremely rare), I`d sure want to use something *really* durable like the 22ple Coating for metal. Running bare aluminum wheels in the Winter would be a terrible idea anyhow IMO (BTDT, with regrettable results).

    I`d do the wheels first, then the tires, planning on a little touchup of the wheels since you might get a bit of the Tire Coating on them (which shouldn`t be a big deal).

    Unless you use a Coating, you should avoid subsequent use of aggressive cleaners, and if you do use a Coating you won`t need them anyhow. For that matter, you almost certainly won`t need anything more than a sorta-strong shampoo mix to clean them once they`re LSPed with anything.

    If you use a conventional LSP, try to keep your Tire Cleaner off them as best you can.

    I don`t know from Tire Coatings, but I wouldn`t expect them to need anything like the 303 as a Coating oughta replace such stuff (otherwise, why bother?).

    Sure, use whatever Drying Aid you like on the wheels, it should provide a little extra sacrificial layer and maybe boost the looks a bit. Not that it oughta really be necessary.

    Generally, what you`re trying to do here is treat the Wheels the same as the paint on the rest of the vehicle and avoid having to use special Wheel Cleaners/etc.

  5. #5

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    Re: LSP’ing wheels and tires

    Quote Originally Posted by Accumulator View Post
    Astouffer512- I really do think you oughta pull `em off, for a number of reasons, but I`ll spare you that lecture
    Sometimes the lectures from the “old timers” are the best though. (Hopefully that innuendo doesn’t insult you. That being said I should buy a floor jack and jack stands regardless I suppose. I would also make it much easier to use the turtle wax ice spray wax on the wheel wells

    Quote Originally Posted by Accumulator View Post
    What Dan said about the "Wheel Wax". IMO if you`re not Coating them you oughta use something known to be durable like FK1000P.
    I just realized it isn’t just wax. It is actually a wheel sealant. It’s the CG’s max coat wheel guard. Got it on amazon for like $10 and figured I’ve wasted $10 in worse ways

    Quote Originally Posted by Accumulator View Post
    Are the wheels BARE ALUMINUM? Very important Q as using stuff made for Bare Aluminum on anything else will cause serious damage (as in, can ruin them, requiring refinishing).
    They aren’t bare aluminum they are OEM clear coated wheels, both the Equinox and our Fusion
    Should I buy something more along the lines of Optimum metal polish then rather than using the Mother’s mag and aluminum polish?


    Quote Originally Posted by Accumulator View Post
    I`d do the wheels first, then the tires, planning on a little touchup of the wheels since you might get a bit of the Tire Coating on them (which shouldn`t be a big deal).
    Thank you

    Quote Originally Posted by Accumulator View Post
    Unless you use a Coating, you should avoid subsequent use of aggressive cleaners, and if you do use a Coating you won`t need them anyhow. For that matter, you almost certainly won`t need anything more than a sorta-strong shampoo mix to clean them once they`re LSPed with anything.

    If you use a conventional LSP, try to keep your Tire Cleaner off them as best you can.
    With the CG’s stuff being a sealant I will still try to just use my wash bucket, but perhaps if needed I can then step up to the brake buster if needed.

    My normal tire cleaner is purple power degreaser. I’ll assume I should use it not so much as to not degrade the McKee’s coating?

    Quote Originally Posted by Accumulator View Post
    I don`t know from Tire Coatings, but I wouldn`t expect them to need anything like the 303 as a Coating oughta replace such stuff (otherwise, why bother?).

    Sure, use whatever Drying Aid you like on the wheels, it should provide a little extra sacrificial layer and maybe boost the looks a bit. Not that it oughta really be necessary.

    Generally, what you`re trying to do here is treat the Wheels the same as the paint on the rest of the vehicle and avoid having to use special Wheel Cleaners/etc.
    I didn’t figure I’d need the 303, but I didn’t know if it would help prolong or not. I think using the Beadmaker would be a better route anyway as a drying aid. Never used a drying aid because I’ve been using my leaf blower to help push most the water off and then my drying towels to finish. When using a drying aid, should forced air still be used to push off most of the water? I missed this when I replied above about the brake buster by trying to not use harsher cleaning methods. Hopefully soap and water does the trick. For the tires is a tire brush still used on coated wheels or does that effect the coating?


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  6. #6

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    Re: LSP’ing wheels and tires

    On another note I do have that powerlock I seaes our fusion with. How does powerlock work for sealing rims?


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  7. #7
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    Re: LSP’ing wheels and tires

    Another vote to bag the Wheel Wax.

    Take a look at Pinnacle Black Diamond Cleansing Polish and Diamond Wheel Coating, this combination is as idiot proof as it gets. For the same amount of effort you would put into an application of Wheel Wax, you’ll have a much more durable layer of protection.

    And as others have suggested, find a way to do a “wheels off” detail, you won’t regret it.

  8. #8

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    Re: LSP’ing wheels and tires

    Quote Originally Posted by Astouffer512 View Post
    Sometimes the lectures from the “old timers” are the best though. (Hopefully that innuendo doesn’t insult you.)
    Heh heh, not insulted at all! I`m working at being a Poster Child for Proper Aging and actually like being an old-timer I try to not be a [jerk] but sometimes come across that way anyhow

    That being said I should buy a floor jack and jack stands regardless I suppose. I would also make it much easier to use the turtle wax ice spray wax on the wheel wells..
    While it`s easy for me to spend your money for you....yeah. Some stuff just *goes* with being a Car Guy (or Gal ) and a floorjack/jack stands are in that category. Also some means of inflating tires, even if it`s just an Air Tank that you fill up now and then at the gas station.

    I`ll spare you the lecture about how I need two floorjacks for every carwash I do But I couldn`t get by without them both (need two if only because of the Differentials I run). Anyhow..

    If you don`t have a practical means of getting the car up/wheels off, just do the parts of the barrels you can access through the spokes. Better than nothing and as long as you don`t have problematic wheels (some Cadillac model was notorious for stuff building up in there enough to throw the wheels out of balance!) that oughta be fine until if/when you indulge your Inner Autopian by pulling `em off.

    ..I just realized it isn’t just wax. It is actually a wheel sealant. It’s the CG’s max coat wheel guard. Got it on amazon for like $10 and figured I’ve wasted $10 in worse ways..
    Noting that some Sealants I`ve used didn`t last as long as some Waxes..hey, you have it and you`re cool with the cost, so maybe it`ll surprise me when you post back about how great it works!



    They aren’t bare aluminum they are OEM clear coated wheels, both the Equinox and our Fusion
    Should I buy something more along the lines of Optimum metal polish then rather than using the Mother’s mag and aluminum polish?
    Hey, this ended up maybe being my Autopian Good Deed for the *year*! That would indeed have been a really, REALLY, big mistake.

    And NO...do *NOT*use the Optimum Metal Polish either! Even if they look like "metal"/chrome/etc. they almost certainly (like...99.999% chance) have some kind of clear on them that you don`t want to compromise, and Metal Polishes of all kinds are extremely abrasive, way too much so for this.

    Use a mild Polish..or, gulp...carefully try a compound if they`re really marred up, but do the "try the mildest approach first" so you`re not more aggressive than necessary. Refinishing wheels is pricey! Just think of the wheels as being regular, if hard, autopaint and settle for "better" rather than aiming for perfection.

    ..I will still try to just use my wash bucket, but perhaps if needed I can then step up to the brake buster if needed.
    Don`t use your Regular Wash Bucket unless you`re gonna dump it out/refill after doing the wheels..nasty stuff you don`t want to risk getting on your paint.

    I use a spray bottle with a pretty strong (~7oz./gallon) shampoo mix on mine, which also works great for the wheelwells/undercarriage. And yeah..I have wash/rinse buckets dedicated to this application. (And a separate bucket for Tires too.)

    My normal tire cleaner is purple power degreaser. I’ll assume I should use it not so much as to not degrade the McKee’s coating?
    I`d assume the same thing. I use Griot`s Rubber Cleaner (which is, if anything, too mild and very pricey) but that`s mostly out of habit and from having so much of it. But I don`t think you`ll need the PP and FWIW I don`t use Degreasers on wheels lest they perhaps mess with the rubber (valid concern? I dunno but I`ve only had one set of tires age badly and I`ve had countless sets of `em).

    I didn’t figure I’d need the 303, but I didn’t know if it would help prolong or not. I think using the Beadmaker would be a better route anyway as a drying aid...
    I would expect the Tire Coating to do fine by itself, and if it didn`t I`d be, uhm...disappointed..to say the least.

    I`ve never been all that impressed with 303, but that`s just me and I`m sure there`s nothing wrong with it (not that I ever use such products for anything except tires).

    Never used a drying aid because I’ve been using my leaf blower to help push most the water off and then my drying towels to finish. When using a drying aid, should forced air still be used to push off most of the water?
    I`m a fanatical advocate of Drying Aids And I too blow off most of the water first (with my AirWand) and also last (with my compressor) as my vehicles retain a lot of water.

    Then I spritz on the Drying Aid and wipe with my MF Drying Towel before doing that final go-around with the compressor`s blow gun.

    I missed this when I replied above about the brake buster by trying to not use harsher cleaning methods. Hopefully soap and water does the trick. For the tires is a tire brush still used on coated wheels or does that effect the coating?
    I wouldn`t expect the brush to be a problem, but again, I just don`t know from Tire Coatings. FWIW, I use both brushes and a sorta-aggressive sponge on my tires.

    On another note I do have that powerlock I seaes our fusion with. How does powerlock work for sealing rims?
    That`s another one I`ve never tried, but since you already have it...sure, see how long it lasts. Hey, I did wheels with *Souveran* for years and that worked fine (just didn`t last long to say the least). The whole idea that you need "really high-temp LSP" on wheels is vastly overstated IMO, they just don`t get that hot (even during Track Days), I even use "regular LSPs" on brake calipers with OK results (on cars that`re driven hard enough to experience brake-fade).

  9. #9

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    Re: LSP’ing wheels and tires

    Quote Originally Posted by SGM2008 View Post
    ...as others have suggested, find a way to do a “wheels off” detail, you won’t regret it.
    Makes for a good time to assess what`s going on in the wheelwells too..not an area to neglect, especially if the vehicle is driven in the winter.

  10. #10

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    Re: LSP’ing wheels and tires

    Well my neighbor and co-worker has a hydraulic jack and jack stands I can borrow this weekend. So I’ll get at it and do it right. Speaking of doing it right.....do you coat the backside of the tires as well?

    In relation to polish, so no mother’s, not going to buy optimum....but I do have Meg’s ultimate polish I had bought on a whim a year or so back....maybe I’ll try polishing with that before putting some kind of protection. Who knows I might try the Jescar powerlock or I might try (please forgive my bad words here) CG’s Hydroslick. I know, many better products out there right, and a lot of guys complain how hard this stuff is to use. For whatever reason I have zero issues with this product. I’ve had it on the windows of the equinox for 2 months now and through rain and several washing’s and I still don’t have need for wipers unless it’s a drastic downpour. (Even used bug remover on it and cleaned it with the stuff at the gas station pumps a to good number of times between washes)




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  11. #11

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    Re: LSP’ing wheels and tires

    Quote Originally Posted by Astouffer512 View Post
    Well my neighbor and co-worker has a hydraulic jack and jack stands I can borrow this weekend. So I’ll get at it and do it right. Speaking of doing it right.....do you coat the backside of the tires as well?
    Nah, but then I don`t coat tires period I do clean them just so they`re not awful to handle during the seasonal switches to/from Winter ones.

    Watch that the socket you use fits the lugs nice and tight, especially if they`re exposed and plated/etc. You might try lining the socket with Saran Wrap or pieces of a nitrile/latex glove.

    ...In relation to polish, so no mother’s, not going to buy optimum....but I do have Meg’s ultimate polish I had bought on a whim a year or so back....maybe I’ll try polishing with that before putting some kind of protection.
    Just be sure to strip those Trade Secret Oils. If UP is still similar to M205 that might be a challenge (well, it always was for me). IPA didn`t remove them for me...the TSO won`t necessarily cause compatibility problems, but they might cause things to look worse once they dissipate.

    .. Who knows I might try the Jescar powerlock or I might try (please forgive my bad words here) CG’s Hydroslick. I know, many better products out there right, and a lot of guys complain how hard this stuff is to use. For whatever reason I have zero issues with this product...
    Sure, if it works that well for you give it a try! Worst case is that it won`t last long, but even then IMO you`ll be ahead. IMO it`s all about whether something works OK *for YOU*, never mind how it works for others (myself included ).

    But be careful using the Gas Station Window Stuff..who knows what`s really in there and I sure wouldn`t want the solution to get on my paint. (Heh heh, we have Window Cleaning Kits in all our vehicles so my wife and I always have our fave stuff handy.)

 

 

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