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  1. #1
    Oneheadlite's Avatar
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    Been a while since Iíve been behind the machine - looking for correction advice...

    So I canít say Iím 100% new to paint correction, but itís been more years than Iíd like to admit since I was last able to really put pads to paint. The biggest thing Iíve realized is that I donít think Iíve done any real correction since Iíve started on the forums here and AG.

    When I was doing corrections, I was working off of the info Iíd read that came with my polisher. To be perfectly honest, looking back I feel like I was mainly going through the motions of the process vs putting thought into things like test-spots and really focusing on results. Heck, I didnít even know back then about proper pad count etiquette (these were the Griotís Machine Polish 1-4 and 6Ē thick foam pad days... Shoot- now Iíve really dated when the last time I really polished was! )

    Since being on here, Iíve added to my arsenal. Iíve also collected myself into a LSP conundrum, but thatís a subject for another thread...

    What Iím working with (Yes, Iím a Griotís fanboy...): BOSS Fast Correcting, Correcting, and Perfecting Cream. Iíve also got their complete compound, but Iím not sure where that would fit in needs wise with the BOSS creams on hand.
    BOSS Microfiber Pads (the ones with the red foam), BOSS Correcting Pads, BOSS Perfecting pads. Microfiber fast finishing pads (the thicker ones). Also have the Red Foam and Black Foam pads. Most pads are 5.5Ē, but I do have some 6.5ís as well. GG6 and GG3 polishers.


    Unfortunately, a big factor of being away from paint correction is lacking the time required to do it. So, Iím now looking at the project with a different view - I need to work as efficiently as possible so I stand the best chance to get the job done.

    Questions:

    Foam Pad priming - I used to lightly butter the pads, then add small dots to reload. Is this still the way to go?

    Microfiber Pad priming - My understanding is these need to be buttered, then same reload process? I donít have air at home, but I do have a pad brush to clean/stand up the pads.

    Machine Speed/Pressure - Back in the day, I would mark the backing plate, then usually polish at speed 5 (sometimes 6), applying enough pressure to slow down the rotation. This was with the thick pads. My brief experience with the thin pads, the machine is happy to really spin those things with the speed dial that high.

    Is downward pressure as important, or should I take the long throw approach of letting the pad travel with less pressure and less speed (say 4?)?

    Passes - I know this will vary wildly based on condition/other factors, but How many should I expect to start with? Am I better off trying to do fewer passes with Fast Correcting Cream, or do more passes with the Correcting Cream since itís milder? Iím not going for 100% correction - theyíre both Daily Driverís. Time allowing, My plan is to chase the correcting phase with Perfecting Cream to try to best refine the gloss.

    The cars are both Audis, so Iím anticipating harder clear. They both have had paintwork though, so Iíll be mindful of watching for differences.



    I know, pretty Newbie stuff. But, instead of bumbling through, Iíd rather ask you folks on here (especially with the time crunch). Iím much more of a read-advice person than the type to surf on YouTube.

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2

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    Re: Been a while since Iíve been behind the machine - looking for correction advice...

    Paging Mike lambert....

    Oneheadlite- I bet you`ll be astounded by how much better it goes these days compared to using the old MP1-4 (not that I ever used MP4).

    As for actual advice, I`m gonna defer to Mike since I`ve never used the BOSS Polishes. He`ll know just how to use `em.

  3. #3

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    Re: Been a while since Iíve been behind the machine - looking for correction advice...

    Probably a few good videos on the web that might help??

  4. #4

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    Re: Been a while since Iíve been behind the machine - looking for correction advice...

    Checkout the Ammo NYC Training Academy video`s on YT, I`d say they are the best in terms of consolidated content.

    https://www.youtube.com/user/AMMONYCdotcom/playlists

    Scott from DPC has some pretty good pointers, here:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jaNetCTW4v8

  5. #5

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    Re: Been a while since Iíve been behind the machine - looking for correction advice...

    Quote Originally Posted by Oneheadlite View Post
    So I can’t say I’m 100% new to paint correction, but it’s been more years than I’d like to admit since I was last able to really put pads to paint. The biggest thing I’ve realized is that I don’t think I’ve done any real correction since I’ve started on the forums here and AG.

    When I was doing corrections, I was working off of the info I’d read that came with my polisher. To be perfectly honest, looking back I feel like I was mainly going through the motions of the process vs putting thought into things like test-spots and really focusing on results. Heck, I didn’t even know back then about proper pad count etiquette (these were the Griot’s Machine Polish 1-4 and 6” thick foam pad days... Shoot- now I’ve really dated when the last time I really polished was! )

    Since being on here, I’ve added to my arsenal. I’ve also collected myself into a LSP conundrum, but that’s a subject for another thread...

    What I’m working with (Yes, I’m a Griot’s fanboy...): BOSS Fast Correcting, Correcting, and Perfecting Cream. I’ve also got their complete compound, but I’m not sure where that would fit in needs wise with the BOSS creams on hand.
    BOSS Microfiber Pads (the ones with the red foam), BOSS Correcting Pads, BOSS Perfecting pads. Microfiber fast finishing pads (the thicker ones). Also have the Red Foam and Black Foam pads. Most pads are 5.5”, but I do have some 6.5’s as well. GG6 and GG3 polishers.


    Unfortunately, a big factor of being away from paint correction is lacking the time required to do it. So, I’m now looking at the project with a different view - I need to work as efficiently as possible so I stand the best chance to get the job done.

    Questions:

    Foam Pad priming - I used to lightly butter the pads, then add small dots to reload. Is this still the way to go?
    It can be, if that`s what has worked for you, stick with it.

    Microfiber Pad priming - My understanding is these need to be buttered, then same reload process? I don’t have air at home, but I do have a pad brush to clean/stand up the pads.

    MF pads do not have to be buttered, but it does help. Just butter them once. A Terry towel will help keep them clean. As far as keeping the pads clean, I like to use one pad per panel, and then switch to a clean one.

    Machine Speed/Pressure - Back in the day, I would mark the backing plate, then usually polish at speed 5 (sometimes 6), applying enough pressure to slow down the rotation. This was with the thick pads. My brief experience with the thin pads, the machine is happy to really spin those things with the speed dial that high.

    Keep the machine speed down, 4 at the highest. If you need more cut, switch to a more aggressive pad or polish, or both.

    Is downward pressure as important, or should I take the long throw approach of letting the pad travel with less pressure and less speed (say 4?)?

    Let the weight of the machine do the work, keep speed no higher than four.

    Passes - I know this will vary wildly based on condition/other factors, but How many should I expect to start with? Am I better off trying to do fewer passes with Fast Correcting Cream, or do more passes with the Correcting Cream since it’s milder? I’m not going for 100% correction - they’re both Daily Driver’s. Time allowing, My plan is to chase the correcting phase with Perfecting Cream to try to best refine the gloss.

    If need to do three passes with CC and could do the same amount of work with one pass of FCC, why wouldn`t you do the one pass? Considering you`re removing the same amount of material. With skinning a cat, there are many ways to do it, as long as we get it done, right? Experience is the best teacher, a good place start would be to follow the instructions on the back of the Griot`s bottles. Least aggressive approach first.

    The cars are both Audis, so I’m anticipating harder clear. They both have had paintwork though, so I’ll be mindful of watching for differences.

    With modern cars, paint work can be negligible as certain parts are now being painted off site from the production line. You could run into a scenario where the different panels require approach adjustments, with all factory paint.

    I know, pretty Newbie stuff. But, instead of bumbling through, I’d rather ask you folks on here (especially with the time crunch). I’m much more of a read-advice person than the type to surf on YouTube.

    In today`s world, there aren`t many places publishing written articles on correction. YT offers material in a condensed format that could literally take pages to explain on a forum.

    Thanks in advance!
    ^^^^

  6. #6
    Oneheadlite's Avatar
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    Re: Been a while since Iíve been behind the machine - looking for correction advice...

    Quote Originally Posted by Accumulator View Post
    Paging Mike lambert....

    Oneheadlite- I bet you`ll be astounded by how much better it goes these days compared to using the old MP1-4 (not that I ever used MP4).

    As for actual advice, I`m gonna defer to Mike since I`ve never used the BOSS Polishes. He`ll know just how to use `em.
    Yeah, Mike was one of the first folks I thought about. Figured I’d throw it out public to share in case it could help someone else. And I value the experience of all the other folks.

    Quote Originally Posted by re-tired View Post
    Probably a few good videos on the web that might help??
    Yeah... The problem with that is twofold -

    1: I’m kinda old fashioned (despite being in my 30’s) and prefer reading as my primary method of detailing info absorption. I think part of it stems from how I learn on the job - If I’m replacing something on a car I’ve never done before, I go to the repair manual and read a quick synopsis of what’s gotta happen. From there, experience tells me how to actually make the repairs. I view detailing the same. The bulk of your experience/proficiency comes from actually doing it. I can watch a video of someone making section passes, but in my head I already know what that looks like. Hopefully I’m not sounding too close minded! I’m sure I could pick up a lot from videos, but that leads to...

    2: Time. The bulk of my detailing education/forum searching/posting takes place in tiny little pockets throughout the day. Quick check here/speed post at lunch there. Makes it hard to sift through the mass amount of videos out there, and then there’s the risk of falling into the YouTube black hole. I’m also not crazy about just watching videos Willy-nilly as it’s likely whoever put it up is going to get some financial reward wether I think they deserve it or not...


    Quote Originally Posted by TheMeanGreen View Post
    Checkout the Ammo NYC Training Academy video`s on YT, I`d say they are the best in terms of consolidated content.

    https://www.youtube.com/user/AMMONYCdotcom/playlists

    Scott from DPC has some pretty good pointers, here:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jaNetCTW4v8
    Thanks for the info both with the links and answers above MeanGreen!! Much appreciated.

  7. #7
    dansautodetailing.com Stokdgs's Avatar
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    Re: Been a while since Iíve been behind the machine - looking for correction advice...

    Oneheadlite --
    All of the below is - after - careful measurements are made of the - total thickness - of what is on the panel..

    I want that baseline - total thickness - so after I correct, I can remeasure and determine how much in - microns - I have removed, and then evaluate based on the clarity, how much more I want to remove..

    When correcting anything in my shop, I always use different amounts of downward pressure and of course, direct drive, to get the best possible finish in the shortest amount of time..

    Of course, you have to be very attentive to the area of that panel, and of course how the pad is reacting to the work, and lastly, how is the area looking, as the product starts to go away, and then is almost completely removed by the pad..

    How much heat build up is also very important to keep track of as it will hurt pads, on both sides, and with some fussy paint, make it harder to manage..

    In my experience, if I ever want the - product - to either break down, or keep on working until I stop, I always use downward pressure, not crazy high speeds, (with my Makita), and strive to make the pad, product, and paint get to know each other in a nice way, so they will all get along...

    You can learn for sure on paintwork much faster than any other way..

    It has been great that the industry recognized that - thinner - pads will allow random orbitals to spin them more easily, and this is always going to be the way to go if you are going to stick to that machine type..

    Find a family member who has a suitable test vehicle and perhaps, that will be a good start to get some hours behind the machine ?
    Dan F

 

 

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