I’ll check with the body shop not far from me. They’ve done work for me a couple times with no problems
Also will check with the dealer I got it from
I’ll check with the body shop not far from me. They’ve done work for me a couple times with no problems
Also will check with the dealer I got it from
Let me explain my reasoning. I don`t believe that Optimum Clearcoat Restorer will work on a large area. Sure, someone can try clearcoating and feathering it but they chance of screwing it up is fairly high. Nail polishes are acrylics. They are fairly easy to apply, although that is a fairly big area. If it works, great. If the repair doesn`t work it can be removed with nail polish remover. Then the OP can take it to a body shop for a repaint.
I don`t know why you contend it won`t work on a large area...I believe in the YouTube video posted by a guy who is mentioned here a lot (sorry, can`t remember the name) he does a whole fender...but in this case I don`t see why you would need to do a large area...only the effected area. The Optimum CCR is applied with an applicator (they use a flat weave MF towel). You would polish it after if any blending rather than feather-sanding.
I`m not sure it would work for this--but I`d love for someone to try so we know what this product can and can`t do.
Watched a couple videos
Ivan from Optimum said if the clearcoat is gone it will not work and I think that is the case for me
I don’t think it’s gonna be worth trying
$89 for the cc restorer is a little pricey
The messed up spot is 1 1/4” long and 1” wide
I think they meant it`s not for "failed" clearcoat...that`s peeling, etc. I don`t see why it wouldn`t work as a replacement in this instance, but I understand your hesitance with the price and last time I checked they didn`t even have an MSDS for it yet--not sure how you can be selling something if an MSDS isn`t available.
They know there are some strong chemicals in the mix or they wouldn’t be wearing those masks
But on the other hand Yvan applyied CCR on a single stage paint on the truck in one of the first videos. It would have been awesome if it where available in smaller sizes for some touch up. Cause I think that it would be worth a shot at that kind of damage you have.
Did you noticed any paint transfer on the polishing pad? Are you sure you buffed of the p1500 grit sanding marks? And did do much spot correction on the area you touched up? And for how long or how many times do think you approximately whent over with the p1500?
Just in case you don`t have to repaint it. Can you try to get a picture with the flash on and in the damage spot?
It`s very sad and you get angry at your self when this happens. The risk is high when you do correction on this level. If you find a great bodyshop only you would know it`s been repainted as they are really great these guys and gals that knows what they are doing and it will look oem made. The upside is you get often more clearcoat to polish after the repaint LOL.
There was a little grey on the pad but I’m thinking that was from the touch up paint I was leveling (not 100% sure though)
The big spot didn’t get sanded
I had the scratches taped off
The last 2 pics are in the shade
Here’s the last one in the shade
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It’s so much reflection
I put some D156 on about a week ago
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They reshot the whole panel with both basecoat and clear, but my situation might`ve been different as there was a too-deep RIDS there (the reason I went ahead and, knowingly, got so aggressive). It *had* to be repainted anyhow as a touchup wouldn`t have been good enough for me so I had nothing to lose and wondered what a mild combo would do if I were more aggressive than I considered prudent.
FWIW, my painter said he wouldn`t have just reshot the clear anyhow, but that was just his take on it and this was back in the days before water-borne paint.
While it`s easy for us to spend your money, I`d take Mike lambert`s advice and get it done right. That`s an obvious place on an otherwise nice vehicle, and I`d just want to get it sorted out so I could put the whole thing behind me as a lesson learned.
Since you didn`t sand the bigger spot I think that you got through the clearcoat sadly. As you can see a little darker area in the spot on the picture in the sunlight. Is the touch up paint proberly and around it is the oem paint without clearcoat. And to get it really great a repaint is the only option to really know it gets great. It would be very interesting to see what the Optimum CCR could do to defects like when you go through the clearcoat. But totaly understand that you don`t as it`s pricey experiment to do. And if it`s not a success it`s an unwanted extra cost. Man if they would have a smaller and cheaper size of the CCR.
I would just like to mention that when going with a smaller backing plate as the 3" on a DA polisher that have 5" or 6" backing plates. They get very much more powerfull to spinning the backing plate. So you can even have them very effective on the speed setting 1-2. Also it`s hard when doing smaller areas and you will be very carefully to count the passes and also take the armspeed in consideration. And also you get a high amount of abrasives from the compound in one spot and it`s not easy to just go with a very small dot of product. Think how you normaly spread it out when polishing and if you would be able count the amount of product in a spot as the size you polished. So spot correction is very aggressive to do. And this all in count makes it easy to go through the clearcoat than you would think. Many have done it and will be doing it even if it`s not a big comfort just now.
Body shop said I only compromised the clear
$325. Went ahead and scheduled it
I asked him about the prep work
He said they will sand the whole door and spray
I asked him do they compound the sanding marks and he said no the clear will cover them
Asked about factory paint quality. He said they don’t hardly put any paint on them anymore and most are water base
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My opinion on the Optimum Clear Coat Restorer was based on a video I saw on YT that indicated that it wouldn`t work if the clear was missing.
I had a test subject that had been sitting outside for 16 years and had some failed clear on the plastic parts. I decided I`ve had enough isocyanates in my life and couldn`t get an MSDS on the CCR so I decided to try the Gelcoat Restorer since it was cheaper, didn`t have to be kept in the freezer, and seemed pretty safe.
The Gelcoat Restorer came out before the CCR, and when it did, it sounded like it might work great on failed clear, but on the Optimum forum, they said--"oh no, it`s not for that...besides we have another product we`re working on for clearcoat" (which turned out to be CCR). But what the heck, danger is my middle name...so I tried the Gelcoat Restorer on the failed clear...and it darkened it, shined it up, and made it bead water. I`m not saying it looks like it has clearcoat on it...but it looks better than it did.
So I realized while using the Gelcoat Restorer that it seemed an awful lot like a tire coating...and I had a whole quart of it...so I decided to try it as a tire coating. It went on like a tire coating, turned blue like a tire coating, dried like a tire coating. If it quacks like a duck...it`s a tire coating. Well, anyway, I have it on the back of one of my tires, I`ll let you know how it held up in a year when it`s time to rotate again.
Moral of the story, don`t take OPT too literally on this stuff, I`m sure someone at some point is going to try CCR on failed clear or a burn through.
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