Starting with brand new leather

[chris03tl]

Thanks everyone!

I went ahead and ordered up some of the Gyeon Leather Shield and cleaner.

I did see the page on Katzkin`s website about "just wipe it down", but I still always wonder....is whatever they used really going to hold up for 5+ years? The leather has a 3 year warranty, and even though they seem like a good company to deal with, I always question the "just wipe it off and thats it!" because after 3 years from now if the leather starts fading, cracking, etc....was it because all I did was "wipe it down"? Could I have taken better care of it that whole time?

I will reach out to Katzkin directly some time this week....if they tell me absolutely not for the leather shield, I will just use it for one my cars that came with leather from the factory (which oddly enough tell me in the manual to do more than just wipe it down...)

I will also be ordering up some of the Spinneybeck stuff that Stokdgs mentioned in the linked post. I have 2 other cars I can use it on, so it will be nice to see how it works in comparison to the Gyeon coating. I have used a leather coating before (CQuartz Leather) and I think it worked well but have a tough time being able to tell if its time to replace it or not. I might just start using a traditional product (like Spinneybeck) at regular intervals and leave the coatings for my truck since it will be outside 24/7.

Thanks again.

-Chris

[RaskyR1]

Regular cleaning with a water based leather cleaner for me.

[The Guz]

I have used a leather coating before (CQuartz Leather) and I think it worked well but have a tough time being able to tell if its time to replace it or not. I might just start using a traditional product (like Spinneybeck) at regular intervals and leave the coatings for my truck since it will be outside 24/7.

Thanks again.

-Chris

The easiest way to determine if the coating is in the seat besides the way it feels is to clean the leather seat and then take an eye dropper and drop water on the surface. If it is hydrophobic the water will bead tightly. If the coating is worn then the water will lay flat and look like it’s about to be absorbed into the leather.

Simply recoat after the initial cleaning to prep the surface. It’s not that difficult.

The abrasion is going to do a lot of the removal depending on how often the seat is sat in.

I posted this in one of my videos on the review links I posted on your Autogeek thread. I think it was the Leather Shield review.

Also Gyeon Leather Shield is very similar to Cquartz Leather in terms of performance. The only difference is in the application where Gyeon self levels.

[Stokdgs]

In my experiences with Detailing all types of leather in vehicles, from the exotic Italian, German, English, Swedish, Japanese, and American, the most important thing one can do is to keep the leather clean from dirt.

Dirt is what actually causes cracks in leather, because it can have abrasives in it, and as they rub back and forth across the leather in - creases ,- these abrasives cut, and keep cutting in there and eventually you have cracks in the leather top layer..

So, just keeping the leather surfaces wiped off alone, will help extend their lives..

The best products I have always found predictable, and proven, from my own experiences to clean, protect, and condition, are still the Old School Favorites, Zaino Z9, Z10, and Spinneybeck Finished Leather Cleaner, Conditioner, & Protector.. I sometimes use Leather Master products as well..

None of the products I use provide - "magic, amazing, leather changes, coatings, etc..", but they do provide and have provided decades of consistent, perfect, leather conditioning and protection..

Lots of great choices out there..
Dan F

[Accumulator]

While I`m extrapolating from leather footwear/clothing, IME leather will often crack at the creases due to flexing even when it`s kept spotlessly clean. I have cracked leather that`s simply *NEVER* been dirty, not even the slightest dust. The places where it creases eventually cracked but that`s never caused any kind of actual problem. I figure it`s a matter of how the leather is finished during the items` manufacture.

[rlmccarty2000]

Most of the cracked leather I’ve seen and owned was cracked on the side bolsters. Probably from bending/pushing getting in and out. I doubt there is any way to prevent this.

[Ron Ketcham]

Yes sir!
If people would take the time to open the Owners Manual and read about what educated engineers, corporate chemist have to say about "care and cleaning of your leather interior surfaces" before going ballistic with advertised products, they might learn some real facts
My 95 Birds seats are in great shape and never "treated with some magic product" touted by a car care products company. Just did as the manual says.

[mobiledynamics]

Aside from plain jane H20, or dye transfer from pants (more pronounced on lighter colors),

Through the use of sitting or the physical rubbing of arm on center rest, etc is what breaks down leather IMO.
I will admit I have coated one of our cars seats - but that was due to light color leather and heavy dye transfer. The coating does make the dye wipe off like nothing. Aside from chems needed to clean them when needed, I`ve been all about H20 for a loong time already.

Got plenty of leather cleaner/conditioner somewhere in my stash. It`s probably rancid at this point

[chrisexv6]

Yes sir!
If people would take the time to open the Owners Manual and read about what educated engineers, corporate chemist have to say about "care and cleaning of your leather interior surfaces" before going ballistic with advertised products, they might learn some real facts
My 95 Birds seats are in great shape and never "treated with some magic product" touted by a car care products company. Just did as the manual says.

I`ve checked the leather manufacturers website and they show no instructions for routine maintenance. Only what to do with spots and spills on the leather.

I`m pretty sure I can`t just leave it forever without vacuuming and cleaning it somehow (even with just plain water) which is why I started this thread

https://katzkin.com/leather-care/

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

[Accumulator]

If people would take the time to open the Owners Manual and read..

I gather the Manuals have come a long way from the [nonsense] that`s in some of mine..that`s good news if people really will RTFM.

My 95 Birds seats are in great shape and never "treated with some magic product" touted by a car care products company...

I`ve gotten awfully lax about doing much of anything to my leather interiors because they stay so nice if I just keep them clean.

[Dan]

The biggest thing that kills leather seats is people sitting in them. And it seems hard to avoid that. Sun does its share, so window tint and a sun shade.

Do some leather treatments help, maybe a bit. Some leather seems to like some products more than others as well. I still haven`t found the "right" product for my Vette, which has seats made of coated beef jerky.

[bodidly22]

Have to agree with the above... most of us with so much skin in the game has to admit to ourselves that when it comes to modern coated leather, - a weekly vac & microfiber wipe with just plain ol` water is BEST practice.

[mobiledynamics]

I can`t comment on the side windows but ALL modern vehicles have UV protection in the windshield. Tint IMO is for creature comfort. A heat soaked car in the summer is a heat soaked car

[Dan]

I can`t comment on the side windows but ALL modern vehicles have UV protection in the windshield. Tint IMO is for creature comfort. A heat soaked car in the summer is a heat soaked car

How effective are window tints in cooling our cars? - Christopher Teh

[Accumulator]

.. a weekly vac & microfiber wipe with just plain ol` water is BEST practice.

I find water by itself doesn`t do much cleaning, at least not compared to Interior QDs. Not slamming, just sayin` in case that approach is "almost OK but not quite" for somebody.