Questions

[phatkid77]

Soooo. Few things.. a couple I will put to use. Others just info looking to learn

My neighbour came over the other day as he’s watched me a few times with the cars. Guess he does it for a living. So I picked his brain a bit (prob misremembered a few things)

1. I think he said he never uses orange pad, rather white with moderate compound. Or maybe it was mild compound with orange pad..🤷`♂️.
2. We talked clearcoats and how thin they were and not to “correct”
Often... given above (1). What’s best for clearcoat retention when trying to correct
3. He said never go level 6. It’s for drying pads. 5 is plenty?? He offered this when I said I had product sling and used 6 power lol
4. What’s the best rubber/rim cleaner for break dust and crap. I used meguairs hot rims and it seems pretty good. But open for suggestion (griots heavy duty garage cleaner sounds good. I like that it changes colour
5. Bought a few CG silk tire shine. Nice product but looking for stupid shine. Lol. Think meguairs HOT SHINE
Parusing I see CG Has an extreme shine. Griots has one that looks good as well

Thanks guys. I’ll have more later. Lol

Phats


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Soooo. Few things.. a couple I will put to use. Others just info looking to learn..

I`ll take a stab at `em

1. I think he said he never uses orange pad, rather white with moderate compound. Or maybe it was mild compound with orange pad..路`♂️.

Different companies use different color-coding, so it`s tricky to generalize. I lean towards never having a PAD that`s more aggressive than the PRODUCT. So I might run a Compound on a Polishing pad but never a Polish on a Cutting pad. But that`s just me..

2. We talked clearcoats and how thin they were and not to “correct”
Often... given above (1). What’s best for clearcoat retention when trying to correct

That`s almost a trick question since Correction = taking off clearcoat. Other than oddball situations that are in the "If you have to ask...just don`t go there" category (e.g., sometimes wetsanding results in less clearcoat loss in the end than aggressive compounding), the safe answer is to just not take off too much for any reason. If that means leaving things (even highly) imperfect, too bad, that`s what you have. That`s why most of my vehicles aren`t as marring free as they could be, the trade-off isn`t worth it since their paint simply can`t take any more correction, period. No, I`m not gonna have something with oe paint reshot over some marring.

3. He said never go level 6. It’s for drying pads. 5 is plenty?? He offered this when I said I had product sling and used 6 power lol

Heh heh, Mike lambert and I were just, uhm....discussing...on this topic Different people like/don`t using the higher speeds, and/but even a guy like me who *does* use them has to know when to dial it back. There`s generally an optimal speed range for a given machine/pad/product/paint combo and if you start low and ramp it up things are less likely to go haywire.

BUT, IMO you shouldn`t be getting any sling under any circumstances whatsoever, period. Maybe you`re using (way) too much product.

4. What’s the best rubber/rim cleaner for break dust and crap. I used meguairs hot rims and it seems pretty good. But open for suggestion (griots heavy duty garage cleaner sounds good. I like that it changes colour

Not my area of expertise, but for the tires people I respect like the Tuff Shine cleaner. I use Griot`s Rubber Prep when rubber/plastics need thorough cleaning, but eh..I just don`t know from really nasty wheels/tires as I just clean up a new-to-me vehicle once and then they`re never bad again. Be a careful about using strongly acidic/alkaline products, especially if the finish on the wheels isn`t 100% OK. It`s not all *that* hard to utterly ruin the finish on a set of wheels.

5. Bought a few CG silk tire shine. Nice product but looking for stupid shine. Lol. Think meguairs HOT SHINE
Parusing I see CG Has an extreme shine. Griots has one that looks good as well

Heh heh, that`s *your* term, not mine Sorry, zero idea about how to get that look. I do know how to clean it off though

[phatkid77]

Lol. Thanks man!

Yeah. I figured sling was too much product accumulating... was lazy with the cleaning the pad at times. So I think it just “built” up in the pad.... easy fix.... get more pads!! Which I did... but white ones... didn’t realize I’d actually ever attempt orange “correcting”. Look at me know. Lol.
FWIW. My pads I believe are Orange County and just got some CG hex orange and white...


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phatkid77- Ah, OK..you`re on the right track now. Yeah, "more pads!", of the right kind and swap `em out frequently. I clean mine after almost *every* section-pass, and that`s a huge PIA even with MF pads (which clean out easily with compressed air) so I have a *lot* on hand. Once you`re always working with a clean pad *everything* oughta go better, and faster too. Took me a while to figure out that extreme overkill is desirable on this one and now I`m fanatical about it.

[phatkid77]

Since I have you on the line. I asked in the other thread I think.
Griots 6” VS PC7242xp

Looked on amazon and it’s $198 up here. Is that the right machine. Almost same as the PC but it’s waaaay better??? May sell and upgrade
Annnnnnnnd. If I did this
Will the same backing plate and pads be fine?
Thanks bud


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Since I have you on the line. I asked in the other thread I think.
Griots 6” VS PC7242xp

Looked on amazon and it’s $198 up here. Is that the right machine. Almost same as the PC but it’s waaaay better??? May sell and upgrade..

The GG6 is significantly better, but I dunno whether you`ll think it`s *enough* better to justify the price. I kinda lean towards saving up for a GG Boss15 or something else long-throw (or even forced-rotation) instead. Don`t go from a .25 to a .32 when you need a big bore.

Will the same backing plate and pads be fine?

Yeah, the PC and GG6 take the same plate/pads. The other types of machines I mentioned take different ones (at least the plates, and they work better with certain pads too), so yeah that would get pricey fast. Eh, just no free lunch..

I really don`t know what to recommend for ya! I`d sure hate for you to spend $ and then have buyer`s remorse. Eh, guess I`d kinda lean towards keeping the PCXP even though I don`t think much of that machine. DO NOT lean on it too hard! Its drive shaft (threaded piece that the pads attach to) is hollow and weak; it can break leaving a spinning piece of jagged metal..yeah, right there at your paint. THAT is a major part of why I just don`t go for the PCXP but then I`m kinda risk-averse when it comes to irreparable damage.

Wonder how you`d like it with 3-4" pads..that`s how I got things done with my PCs. The GG6 can do OK with larger pads like whatyou have now, but again..that`s a lot of $ to spend for a somewhat better version of what you have now. I`m glad I bought *mine*, but that was my $ and I`m more careful about spending other people`s

[phatkid77]

Not gunna lie. No clue what long throw and short throw pertains too.
I too also wondered about perhaps some 4” pads. Big panels 5.5” are great. But cars now adays have so many “lines” and contours its a `````.
Wouldn’t thing the CG6 would be a big waste. It’s the same amount. So if I sold my PC might be out 50-70$. I’d take that hit.
Going to read more about that rig (and ones you’ve mentioned)


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Not gunna lie. No clue what long throw and short throw pertains too... [but I`m gonna]..
Going to read more about that rig (and ones you’ve mentioned).

There you go! Study up and make an informed decision. Heh heh, yeah, I`m kinda kicking you up the learning curve, but you are on the right path

Oh, and the Long/regular Throw refers to how far the machine moves the pad around while doing its thing. Generally, farther = more effective. (Very short version.)

[phatkid77]

Damn you. I love “the boss” on the griots lol
And the sound of quieter and quicker... softer and smoother. but twice the price?? Probably can’t justify that personally.... maybe down the road. Should I become REALLY good and want to shave an hour off??🤷`♂️



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...twice the price?? Probably can’t justify that personally.... maybe down the road. Should I become REALLY good and want to shave an hour off??路`♂️

Understand completely if that`s a bit pricey! Lots of $ for something that doesn`t really matter. But I`d say that having the right polisher setup could be a big part of "being really good" at this stuff. No, "it`s not about the polisher", but IMO it really does factor in significantly. If nothing else, many people lose focus after a few hours of staring at a paintjob, so quicker can = better.