Dumb question or two

[phatkid77]

Obviously not a perfectionist to the degree of the great detailers here...

Got my griots correcting cream. Obviously orange pad for best correction. CAN a white one be used? Especially if very minor maring?

And after doing that. There’s no lasting “protection” is there? So best to blast a coat of blacklight or maybe even colonite?

Thanks guys
Phats

Kinda tell how minor I’m talking with this one


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[Accumulator]

phatkid77- Whose Orange and White pads?

If LC, then I`d be awfully surprised if the GG CC/white would be sufficiently aggressive. The "White Polishing" pads from most vendors are so mild that I never used them until things are already close to perfect.

But not all "White Pads" are gentle polishing pads these days...

[phatkid77]

Thanks.
Chemical guys white pads I believe. Just got a couple hex too.
Was leaning towards orange anyway.
Curious about the need to go over again with blacklight or whatever as well


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[Accumulator]

Curious about the need to go over again with blacklight or whatever as well

IMO you won`t really know until you`re there. See what *you* think after you`ve done the Orange-then-White progression. Just don`t switch to the milder combo(s) too soon...but don`t overdo it and kill your clear either

But yeah..getting back to your original post...after you do the correction the paint will be bare with no protection, so get some kind of LSP on there. Well, unless you use some kind of AIO, but I`d want to top that with a real LSP anyhow for durability and protection.

[phatkid77]

Soooo. Did a quick 40min hood trial.
I’d say definitely improved.... not like glass tho. . Lol

Technique issue I presume
More pressure and slower passes




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[Stokdgs]

Great job !
Looks like you removed a lot of the scratches..

The ones left must be deeper, so will require more machine time.. Can you catch your fingernail in those deeper scratches ??

So, to recap, you used Griot`s Correcting Cream and C/Guys pads, correct ?

And affirm, you need to put something on the area you correct because anything that was on there before is now gone..

None of the C/Guys stuff in my experiences lasts longer than a few days if that.. If you don`t really care about longevity, then use what you have..

The real long lasting products are Finish Kare 1000P -- https://www.autopia-carcare.com/fini...l#.W1jde9XFj3g
and Collinite -- https://www.autopia-carcare.com/liqu...l#.W1jb59XFj3g

After those, there are Sealants, and then Coatings..
Dan F

[phatkid77]

Thanks Dan!
I quickly did finger nail test. Don’t think I “felt” scratches

You’re correct in the products I used.

I’ve came across that klasse mentioned a few times here.

I have collonite past wax. 476s.
May look into 845
915 sounds good for dark paints tho...


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[Lonnie]

What polishing machine are you using??
One thing I have learned with the Dual-Action Porter-Cable, let the pad and the compound/polish do the work. While I THOUGHT some pressure is OK, there is a law of diminishing returns, and too much pressure will stall the DA-PC`s orbital motion, defeating its purpose. what this means is it may take 3 or 4 passes over a severely scratched area, an even then, if the scratch is too deep, it cannot be removed with a DA-PC. Pad choice of a foam type or microfiber is critical and may take some trial-and-error before the right one works, if at all. I start our with a white Lake Country or a tangerine Hydro-Tech and go up to a "stiffer" foam pad from there. If I can plainly see the scratch is somewhat deep and I have worked on that type of paint color of a particular vehicle manufacturer, I may start out with a more aggressive pad and compound. Paints vary in hardness and if an area on a vehicle has been repainted, it may not have the exact same type (make) of paint as the OEM paint, making the correction process more difficult to perfect and requires even more trial-and-error experimenting. I hate to bust your correcting process, but it is one of the reasons many professionals have a variety of pad foam types (manufacturers and density or stiffness indicated by its colors) and different compounds and/or polishes in their detailing supply arsenal to work with during the correction process. One size (process or technique) does not fit all (paint correction).
Because I do not have a true professional polishing machine, like a Flex 3401 or Griot`s Garage Boss G15 or Rupe`s Bigfoot MKII 15mm, or the skill and experience with a rotary polisher like a Flex PE 14-2 or Makita 9237C-X3, I must live with the "limitations" of the DA-PC, which also means sometimes you live with , as I call it, shiny scratches. It is what it is, but a DA-PC, even with limited pad choices, is infinitely better that trying to do paint correction all by hand, like many novice do-it-yourselfer`s attempt to do at home with vehicle detailing, as are the results.

[phatkid77]

Yeah. Using the porter cable as I wanted the safest possible way to take all the hard work out without a high risk to the paint lol

I didn’t/don’t put much pressure on. Cognizant of the buffer not to stop/stall as per the black sharpie marks

Thanks


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[Accumulator]

I`d give serious thought to saying "good enough" at this point.

It`s *NOT* like "won`t catch fingernail so OK to correct"; in many cases that`d thin the clear so much you couldn`t work it again in the future. Without measurements you`re flying blind.

That said, it can take a *LOT* longer than 40 minutes to correct a panel with a moderate-power RO. And I don`t mean just an hour.

Oh, and if you have 476S I see zero reason to buy anything else from them unless you`d rather use a liquid like 845. I sure wouldn`t give any thought to the "this one looks better on [whatever color]" idea.

I like Lonnie`s idea of just learning to live with shiny, but imperfect paint. Such stuff seldom matters to anybody IRL the way it does here at Autopia, and/but if it matters that much to *YOU* (which means that it really does matter after all!) then you`ll absolutely have to figure out how to avoid any subsequent marring. And that`s a very tall order.

[Heck], most of the cars I`ve enjoyed the most were *FAR* from Autopian marring-wise, but that didn`t matter in the least. My `93 Audi is like that; I love it exactly the way it is but many Autopians would probably say it need a repaint.

[phatkid77]

Thanks as usual!
Yeah here and what not like pixel peeping.

Definitely good enough. ESPECIALLY the hood. Perhaps I’ll try another panel. But will definitely pick a spot on my 2015 CRV and slow it down.

I think what I’ll also do is add the clay bar step. I remember when I first joined here ions ago I bought one. Never had the balls to use it. Scared to scratch a pebble down the paint lol.

You guys rock


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[Accumulator]

I think what I’ll also do is add the clay bar step. I remember when I first joined here ions ago I bought one. Never had the balls to use it. Scared to scratch a pebble down the paint lol.

Hey, that`s a *good* thing to be concerned about! It takes me *FOREVER* to clay, but that`s because I too worry that the *instant* it picks up something abrasive it turns into sandpaper. I don`t move my clay even a few inches without stopping/inspecting/kneading or replacing it.

The risk of marring is another reason why I prefer Chemical Decontamination on vehicles that really need it.