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  1. #16
    Mike The Guz's Avatar
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    Re: Driving myself crazy! Another hard clear coat question

    It almost sounds like the paint was on the softer side if M205 on a finishing pad was creating defects. Or just plain finicky. I encountered something similar on my uncles black 2002 corvette that was repainted. A finishing pad with M205 instilled efects back into the paint after I had compounded the car with D300 on Griot`s boss microfiber pads to remove some severe paint defects. When I went to a Rupes yellow pad and M205 it finished out fine. But when I went to finishing pad, it created defects. Go figure. I was also testing out Rupes yellow polish and the Rupes yellow pad and that worked fine as well and that is what I ended up using. I am using a Rupes 15 Mark II.
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  2. #17
    Detailers Workshop The Driver's Avatar
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    Re: Driving myself crazy! Another hard clear coat question

    Some paints are a pain; I`d play with some water to soften it up a bit. Water ratios can have a huge effect on cut/finish. A DAT will be a lot easier for a one step.
    Rupes 21 MK II, Rupes 15 MK II, Rupes 21, Rupes LHR75e, Rupes Duetto, Rupes Ibrid-L, Rupes LH18ENS, Flex PE-14-2, Dodo Juice V1

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  3. #18
    dansautodetailing.com Stokdgs's Avatar
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    Re: Driving myself crazy! Another hard clear coat question

    Quote Originally Posted by The Driver View Post
    Some paints are a pain; I`d play with some water to soften it up a bit. Water ratios can have a huge effect on cut/finish. A DAT will be a lot easier for a one step.
    You are so right !!

    I only use a Rotary and I always spray the bottle of pad conditioner(which is like a QD anyway) on the work to keep it all just moist enough to finish down to almost nothing, and then the pad will clean up the rest when I ease off the pressure, and hardly anything left to wipe off and accidentally muck up the pristine finish..

    I hardly ever just let the liquids in the media do all the moisturizing work - well except for Optimum Hyper Polish which is so excellent right out of the gate even as a SMAT polish..

    Even at correction or polishing, it really comes down to thin, even, coverage and balanced, even, flat, pressure on the panel from beginning of stroke to end..

    A lot of things are happening all at once including friction heat and it needs to be as even as possible to get the same result all the way through that entire spot on the panel...

    This is why you get huge arms/shoulders doing this all day for years with a 10 lb tool that is wanting to move to the right all the time..
    Dan F
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