??? Multiple Pads vs On The Fly Cleaning

[Stokdgs]

If we are talking Foam, I`m with all the guys that change pads frequently, clean the pads with a towel or something between change-out, and absolutely know that a clean pad will Always work better, faster, and give you better results..

Once the pad gets full of stuff it just can`t possibly perform as well as one with clean pores, right ?

Rotary Power gets the correction (along with all the associated ga-ga that comes out of dirty paint) done quicker, so I have to change pads often, but I would rather wash a half dozen pads in the soaking bucket at the end of the day and save time not fussing around with what - 2 pads per vehicle ???

Perhaps you are just detailing very clean paint all the time so the pads don`t really get that dirty or you are not correcting very far before you stop ?

Even after all the incredible stuff out there today - foaming, deep cleaning foaming, decon, decon foaming, claybars, claystrips, rubberized towels, mitts, etc., I don`t know what others are seeing, but I still get a lot of gunk OUT of the paint that is not going to come out any other way except by a compound..

So, I use a lot of pads, but lucky for me, its only a couple choices, and they absolutely rock the paint with my Makita all the time...
Dan F

[Brownie]

As Rasky mentioned, frequently switching to new pads is one of the most important strategies when correcting paint. The majority of the work is done during this step. Sometimes multiple buffing cycles per panel...all again, leading to liquid absorption by the pad...increase weight. This combined with pad to paint surface tension--> FRICTION--> Heat...the pads will deteriorate quicker. This IMO, is more critical than "Residue Control", which others refer to. Yes, residue control is critical on single stage paint finishes...but pad weight is far more critical to pad life and user experience.


IMO a best practice is to run a pad conditioner brush against the pad after every buffing cycle. Upon the completion of each panel (This will kick off a gram or so of product), I blow the pad out with 90psi compressed air (Inside ==> Out) (This will kick off 1-2grams) After 2 panels or so, I`ll switch to a new pad. Yes, I have an endless supply of pads, because I work for a mfg....but I`d do this regardless?


Improved Correction
Improved Finishing
Improved Comfort
Extended Pad Life
Extended backing plate life - saturated pads will often lead to product soaking through the Velcro loop. This will in turn load the hook on your backing plate which will reduce its` adhesion...

[JustJesus]

let me know how the timing goes. say it takes 2-3 mins to clean on the fly but you had to do it 10 times on a vehicle. thats possible 30 minutes…
[B&S] makes hex logic pads because the foam and the backing velcro area look identical. you can buy B&S pads $30 for 6 pack of you choose here at autopia

WHOA. Forget the timing idea! No thanks. Yup yup. I won’t be buy CG Hex anymore and HAVE been looking at the B&S, and from Autopia, no less. J Better price per pad, as a 6 pack, and from ACC.

…
My new method is using just two pads . After a panel I run it through the pad washer and set it aside. Then once I dirty the next pad, I clean and grab the one that sat for a few minutes. ….

Kind of the same as me, less tha pad washer. That’s not something in my near future.

I`m a "clean on the fly" guy. Going to "up my game" by using pad washer every couple of panels, though.

Yes, but you’re fancy!

If volume is low and this is a hobby, just get a pad washer.

Edit : to add, I think a rotary works best with one. A DA kinda throws water everywhere and doesn`t clean as well.

Pad washer and rotary are not in my immediate future. Baby steps. J

also remember that your pads need to match your current and possible future machines .. price comparison only works within a brand and style .. some pads last a long time and some don`t .. some may work well with certain products and other not .. a lot to take into consideration ... are the backings glue or infused? are they flat or beveled?

Funny enough, I actually was taking current/future machines into account. My pricing was being based on typical flat foam pads (for now). Hmmmh. Backings being glued or infused? Now that’s new to me!

Hey
All valid points above. One key reason that I didn`t see mentioned upon my quick read is managing pad weight. Pad weight is crucial to the performance of your orbital machines. Regardless of whom mfg. it. The counterbalance assembly is designed to offset the weight of the backing plate, foam/microfiber pad, and a specific amount of liquid….

Brownie, that’s a lot of info there! I will be buying some thin pads as well, as I did take rotational mass into consideration. Eventually, I’ll have a decent selection of pads. Different tools for different jobs, right?

A lot of factors come in to play IMO... The towel is more to soak up excess product and the air is to remove spent abrasives and residue… I don`t have an issue with pad life, but I`m also not running my tools at max speed with excess pressure either.

Oh yeah, I forgot about the smaller pads. Not so much a concern here, though. I do the towel first, followed up by the nylon brush. No air system yet. I also don’t like to run my equipment at full pressure or max speed J

If we are talking Foam…

Perhaps you are just detailing very clean paint all the time so the pads don`t really get that dirty or you are not correcting very far before you stop ?

Even after all the incredible stuff out there today - foaming, deep cleaning foaming, decon, decon foaming, claybars, claystrips, rubberized towels, mitts, etc., I don`t know what others are seeing, but I still get a lot of gunk OUT of the paint that is not going to come out any other way except a compound..

So, I use a lot of pads, but lucky for me, its only a couple choices, and they absolutely rock the paint with my Makita all the time...[IMG]file:///C:\Users\jesus\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\01\ clip_image001.png[/IMG]
Dan F

Yup, foam. So I got the feel for what the consensus is around here. And with the various posts, my question has been answered. AND, I’m getting additional info from this thread!
I’ve actually dealt with some pretty nasty paint. One guy drove from So Cal to Arizona on a weekly basis. Didn’t care to wash it either. He figured the hail and rain storms would wash away the crap left by the dust storms. I clay’d that car (this was before I invested in Nanoskin) for hours. SO MUCH contamination.

I’m still not into the rotary just yet. I’m not opposed to the idea, but like I mentioned above, baby steps. One thing at a time.

As Rasky mentioned, frequently switching to new pads is one of the most important strategies when correcting paint. ….

IMO a best practice is to run a pad conditioner brush against the pad after every buffing cycle. Upon the completion of each panel (This will kick off a gram or so of product), …Yes, I have an endless supply of pads, because I work for a mfg....but I`d do this regardless? ...

I have to agree with that. I do run such a brush after I remove the reside with a cotton towel. Sounds like I might have to look into using air. But I’m sure that will be way, wayyy down the line. Thanks for the additional post, Brownie.

Thank you ALL for the posts.

[TuxedoTaurus]

I carry a small kobalt compressor when doing mobil, I blow the pads after each section. I have found it to be more efficient. It removes more spent product and does not put excess wear on the pad. After a panel or two I change pads.

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[jrock645]

I usually find myself needing 4 full sized pads per step, plus a couple of 3".

[dcjredline]

I too have been doing fine with just 4 per car using an AIO. I bet I could go down to 2 6.5" CCS pads per car but I`m sure 4 is better/smarter.

[danlc95]

I use about 2 pads to cut, and 2 to polish.

I wipe them with a microfiber towel after each section pass.

The pads I use are pretty open, and airy, so the don`t get as bound up with residue as they typical orange or yellow cutting pads.

[pwaug]

Here`s what Mike Phillips has to say about the number of pads to use per step: LINK How many pads do I need to buff out my car?

[JustJesus]

I carry a small kobalt compressor when doing mobil, I blow the pads after each section. I have found it to be more efficient....

Is that Kobalt an electric unit? Model number, please?


Thanks for the others that also replied. I guess the job *can* get done with fewer pads, but it seems to make sense that it could be more efficient overall to use multiple pads.

[TuxedoTaurus]

Is that Kobalt an electric unit? Model number, please?


Thanks for the others that also replied. I guess the job *can* get done with fewer pads, but it seems to make sense that it could be more efficient overall to use multiple pads.

Yes its electric, I can`t find model# but here is a pic. It was like $109 at Lowes.

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[JustJesus]

ahhhh. cool. no number needed, as Google and I get along fairly well.

Thank you!

[TuxedoTaurus]

ahhhh. cool. no number needed, as Google and I get along fairly well.

Thank you!

Your welcome. It will use about a cycle per foam pad cleaning at 100psi, and two microfiber pads per fill cycle.

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