Rust Repair

[Swanicyouth]

Got the latest round of rust on the PF fixed. Once again, repair looks seamless.

Before:



After (lighting is different / match looks perfect in person):



Cost was $700 if I recall. There was actually a hole in the sheet metal below the plastic fender liner they patched. Other than $50 for a coil, this the rust is the only repair this vehicle has needed in 2 years or so.

Shop was Mari-Al Auto Body in Spring Mount PA. I`d recommend them. They do great work and the owner takes the time to explain everything.

[Ronkh]

Looks like a good paint match too

[Angus]

Nice work. You sure have fixed a lot of rust on that PF. Any guesses on where the next patch of rust will appear?

[Swanicyouth]

Nice work. You sure have fixed a lot of rust on that PF. Any guesses on where the next patch of rust will appear?

We could have a contest. Guess my next rust fix & you will win a bunch of detailing supplies from me.



Look for the answer spring of 2016.

[Accumulator]

Swanicyouth- Glad it turned out so well, very reasonably cost too!

I`d be especially fastidious about cleaning the underneath/wells/etc. on that, at least weekly during the winter. Eh, I`d go so far as to spray wax the underneath, but then I generally do that anyhow.

[Swanicyouth]

Swanicyouth- Glad it turned out so well, very reasonably cost too!

I`d be especially fastidious about cleaning the underneath/wells/etc. on that, at least weekly during the winter. Eh, I`d go so far as to spray wax the underneath, but then I generally do that anyhow.

I do clean the wheel wells pretty well with APC and a Wheel Woolie. Not sure if I`d say weekly, but every time I wash the car. I coated all the exposed areas of the wells with the bed liner Rhino stuff a few years ago. That seems to be holding up good as new.

There seems to be light superficial rust forming or the tips of the crimp welds in some areas below the rockers (not on the actual rockers). Not sure if this a dumb idea, but I thought of taping them off and paint them with that rust converting paint - which I have zero experience with.

I wonder if anyone has an opinion on this????

[Don]

I do clean the wheel wells pretty well with APC and a Wheel Woolie. Not sure if I`d say weekly, but every time I wash the car. I coated all the exposed areas of the wells with the bed liner Rhino stuff a few years ago. That seems to be holding up good as new.

There seems to be light superficial rust forming or the tips of the crimp welds in some areas below the rockers (not on the actual rockers). Not sure if this a dumb idea, but I thought of taping them off and paint them with that rust converting paint - which I have zero experience with.

I wonder if anyone has an opinion on this????

Get a light wire brush (like a toothbrush sized one) and brush away any loose paint/rust then tape off and spray or brush on the rust converter on the areas. I would also get a small can of black Rustoleum and cover the treated areas once the converting paint has dried for added protection. A brush will put it on more precise than a spray and a bit thicker. I used OSPHO that I bought at a local hardware store .... True Value, I think

[Don]

FROM THE OSPHO WEBSITE:

Directions for use
For Application Questions Not Answered Here Call Factory Direct at: 216-771-1590



RUSTED METALS - OSPHO is a rust-inhibiting coating - NOT A PAINT You do not have to remove tight rust. Merely remove loose paint and rust scale, dirt, oil, grease and other accumulations with a wire brush - apply a coat of OSPHO as it comes in the container - let dry overnight, then apply whatever paint system you desire. When applied to rusted surfaces, OSPHO causes iron oxide (rust) to chemically change to iron phosphate - an inert, hard substance that turns the metal black. Where rust is exceedingly heavy, two coats of OSPHO may be necessary to thoroughly penetrate and blacken the surface to be painted. A dry, powdery, grayish-white surface usually develops; this is normal - brush off any loose powder before paint application.



NEW METALS - For new ferrous or aluminum metals: remove dirt, grease, or oil; apply OSPHO, let dry overnight, then paint.



GALVANIZED - where appearance is important, apply one coat of OSPHO, let stand for approximately thirty minutes or until metal is etched. Flush with water, avoiding damage to adjacent areas; or wipe to a smooth finish, let dry, then paint. Where appearance is not important, one coat of OSPHO is recommended to thoroughly coat and etch the metal. Let stand overnight or until completely dry. Brush off any loose powder before painting.



A typical paint application will last much longer after an application of OSPHO because subsequent paint coatings attach themselves so tightly that moisture and oxygen cannot attack the metal. OSPHO is water-thin, and therefore goes on easily and covers a larger area than paint. One gallon covers approx. 600 square feet. Historically, best results have been achieved using an oil-base primer and topcoat. Test a trial sample before using under epoxy or latex-base paint applications. OSPHO is equally effective for exterior and interior work alike and is highly recommended as a pre-treatment coating by leading paint manufacturers.



For best results, use OSPHO at temperatures no lower than 36 degrees F. Excessive dew and humidity may prolong drying time and cause powdery buildup.



Spray equipment should be flushed out with water after using. Clean brushes with water. Avoid getting OSPHO on adjacent areas such as painted surfaces, concrete, masonry and stonework. If splashing occurs, flush immediately with water to remove.



WARNING: OSPHO contains phosphoric acid. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN. If taken internally give large quantities of milk or water. Call physician. Avoid contact with eyes. In case of contact, flush with water. Prolonged exposure to skin may cause irritation - use rubber gloves or other forms of skin protection.




SAFELY DISSOLVES BLEEDING RUST FROM MANY PAINTED SURFACES:
CAUTION: paint composition & quality vary greatly. A check should be made by testing OSPHO on a small area. Dulling or peeling may occur in some finishes. The manufacturer assumes no liability for damage to finished surfaces.

[Ccrew]

Eastwood`s POR-15 for the win also. Swanic, what vehicle is that rusting like that?

[Accumulator]

I`ve dealt with the "crimped seam rust" issue on a number of vehicles, both DIYing it and having it done professionally. It`s *ALWAYS* a hit-or-miss gamble and IME it`s just luck if you effect a permanent fix.

I`ve fund some products like KBS Rust Seal and Rust Bullet can work a *LOT* better for me than POR15 does (I`ve actually quit using POR15). Eastwood`s Rust Encapsulator is OK but I`m using it less and less recently.

Best stuff to treat the metal that I`ve used (and I`ve used a lot of different ones over the last nearly-40 years) is a product called Metal Blast.

I grind out the rust with small diamond burrs rather than wire brushes. Take the time to do it right (I don`t mean just an hour ). Then treat, several times, with Metal Blast. Keep it wet with the Metal Blast (or whatever you use) for a good long time (figure out how to do that). Then use the paint-over-rust product. I`ve quit using Rust Converters but ifyou want to use one do it in-between those two steps; make sure your Rust Converter doesn`t cause issues from places where there`s no rust to convert!

If inside a door/etc. seal up the area (yeah, even though the paint-over-rust stuff should take care of everything you do still need to do this) with a proper rustproofing material applied properly (not as straightforward as it sounds, easy to leave "pockets" that will retain moisture and salt and lead to more trouble). Aerosol spray cans are tricky to do right compared to Pro rustproofing guns.

Still just luck when a repair lasts, but sometimes they do (spots on the Jag have been fine for decades and the Tahoe`s one rear door is still OK after a few years now). I`ve paid big money to have a shop do it "better than you can do at home" and had it rust back out after one winter and I`ve had DIY repairs last indefinitely...YMMV definitely applies.

[Swanicyouth]

Thanks. 2001 Pathfinder.

I live like 5 mins from Eastwood. They have a product called Rust Encapsulator that looks good. I`ll ask them.

[tom p.]

I`ve got the Rust Encapsulator product. Works pretty good.

[Accumulator]

Rust Encapsulator used to be my fave (bet that`s where Tom learned about it ) and I still like it *IF* you can do a bit of remediation before using it. One of the great things about it is that it does *not* need a topcoat to be UV-stable.

BUT be cautious about using Rust Converter before Rust Encapsulator for the reason I mentioned earlier- Rust Converter that doesn`t "convert" can mess with things if you apply the RE over top of it.

And do more coats of RE than you think you need to or do the topcoating anyhow (with something really good).

[tom p.]

I did this little write up in 2011 using the Rust Encapsulator: Re-purposing the Porter-Cable

Let me get a picture of the area and see how it`s really holding up 4 yrs. later.