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View Full Version : Impossible to remove water spots!!!



cwcad
10-30-2005, 03:45 PM
I came home after seven months and the wife left the truck sit on the street and every other day for seven months the water sprinklers hit the passenger side of my truck leaving very hard to remove water spots.



Have used everything in my arsenal to get rid of these spots. have cut them down but the worst is stillthere mostly on the bottom of the doors, rocker panels and the loser frameof the truck.





Before

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/cwcad/summer2005036.jpg











http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/cwcad/summer2005037.jpg



After

This is what it is like after using distilled vinegar and water equal parts, SSR2.5, IP, FPll. FTG, and cover with butter wax for a week. Plus to day I used a Poorboy`s new product called PwS that replaces PwC. I used all the aggressive pads LC yellow, TOL yellow tufted pad, and a woolpad from TOL. Using a PC 7424 at speed setting from 3 to 6.



http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/cwcad/summer2005039.jpg



http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/cwcad/summer2005044.jpg



I could use some brain storming here. I am out of ideas. I am out of Menzerna`s Powergloss and have Poorboy`s SSR 3 in a shipment coming soon.

a.k.a. Patrick
10-30-2005, 04:01 PM
Ouch, divorce is inevitable.....................Nice improvement though, its rather obvious your going to have to do some cutting, sorry to reveal no simpler truth, but I think you know that.....

92MX83
10-31-2005, 01:13 AM
I use a product called MX-7. It appears to be a hydrofluoric acid solution (bottle says "Contains inorganic fluorides"), smells like wintergreen, and you have to wear gloves when using it. It`s made in Hawaii, and costs about $10 for a 16-oz. bottle. I recently did a Honda Odyssey with horrendous hard-water marks baked onto the paint caused by the owner parking next to sprinklers for months without any form of paint care. It worked exceedingly well, removing the lime deposits after about 15-20 seconds of rubbing with light-to-moderate pressure. Prior to using the MX-7, I tried Menz P085RD at medium speed (rotary w/ polishing pad) with less than total success (The water here in Hawaii is very hard, as the other Hawaii folks here can attest).



There`s also an MX-7 for glass, which is actually a thin, abrasive paste, and seems pretty much identical to the Malco Glass Waterspot Remover. The MX-7 for paint is a thin liquid with no abrasives. I can send you a sample if you`d like to try it and can`t find any near you; PM or email me if you`re interested.



BTW, I`d recommend re-washing the affected area after applying MX-7, using a weak soap solution to neutralize any remaining acid. I just do this as a safety precaution, as I don`t know if the MX-7 will interfere with the LSP adhering to the surface. Before I used it, I was worried it would etch the paint, but my fears proved to be unfounded.

cwcad
10-31-2005, 04:14 AM
I use a product called MX-7. It appears to be a hydrofluoric acid solution (bottle says "Contains inorganic fluorides"), smells like wintergreen, and you have to wear gloves when using it. It`s made in Hawaii, and costs about $10 for a 16-oz. bottle. I recently did a Honda Odyssey with horrendous hard-water marks baked onto the paint caused by the owner parking next to sprinklers for months without any form of paint care. It worked exceedingly well, removing the lime deposits after about 15-20 seconds of rubbing with light-to-moderate pressure. Prior to using the MX-7, I tried Menz P085RD at medium speed (rotary w/ polishing pad) with less than total success (The water here in Hawaii is very hard, as the other Hawaii folks here can attest).



There`s also an MX-7 for glass, which is actually a thin, abrasive paste, and seems pretty much identical to the Malco Glass Waterspot Remover. The MX-7 for paint is a thin liquid with no abrasives. I can send you a sample if you`d like to try it and can`t find any near you; PM or email me if you`re interested.



BTW, I`d recommend re-washing the affected area after applying MX-7, using a weak soap solution to neutralize any remaining acid. I just do this as a safety precaution, as I don`t know if the MX-7 will interfere with the LSP adhering to the surface. Before I used it, I was worried it would etch the paint, but my fears proved to be unfounded.



now that is what I like about Autopia. I knew that someone would have experienced a similiar problem.



I will be totally indebted to you. A PM will be forth coming.