bordering on the ridiculous... a little long

[imported_rfinkle2]

I have been struggling w/ my brand new f-150 (black) since I took it home (w/out dealer prep) about 2 months ago. Actually , I`ve been struggling with the 100`s of dollars of products that I`ve bought in the past (and recently) micro-marring my paint.



I wanted to start using the klasse twins on my truck, given the reviews on its look and durability, but noticed that AIO WILL mar my paint... just like many of the other "gentle" pre-cleaner products recommended for use before applying LSP`s.





The only thing that I can find to restore the "showroom clarity" to my paint is PO85RD, and FPII.



After countless hours of trial and error (more error than trial), I`ve concluded that some manufacturers are pretty gutsy claiming that their product is "safe for clearcoat" or even worse "CONTAINS NO ABRASIVES".



Are there any sealants whose "primer" or pre-cleaner will not reduce the clarity given by PO85RD?

:sadwavey:

[brwill2005]

AIO uses chemical cleaners. It should not be marring your paint. Is your paint completely clean? Is your applicator towel/pad completely clean? Is your buffing towel completely clean? These are some questions to be asking yourself. If you answer `yes` to any of these questions, than that could be the cause of the marring. Hope this helps.

[imported_rfinkle2]

First, I`d like to say that I didn`t start this thread to cause an argument. I did feel, however, that it was important to mention that AIO DOES , IN FACT, CONTAIN ABRASIVES, and using the same type of applicator, will dull the surface that po85rd creates.

[Bill D]

Hmm...this is unusual. How exactly are you applying AIO? FWIW, I apply it either by hand using a MF applicator or by PC using a black LC finishing pad, speed no higher than 3.



If the AIO a continues to be a problem, plenty of "pure", non cleaning and "non abrasive" sealants can be applied instead.

[imported_rfinkle2]

I may have soft paint, but have applied AIO in the same way as questioned...i.e. w/ a finishing pad on a low PC speed.



Maybe my question is what compatible LSP`s have a precleaner that is TRULY STRICTLY ABRASIVE FREE?



I don`t wish to continue to have to abrade my paint when it isn`t necessary, but would like to strip product, tar, mineral deposits etc. before trying a new lsp.

[Bill D]

To strip my existing LSPs to start over fresh, a 50: 50 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and distilled water often does the job.



I always took the popularity of AIO before the "pure" sealant being due to the cleaning properites and also its leaving a "base layer" of sealant behind for the next sealant to bond to.

[imported_rfinkle2]

Bill - D,



I would really like to use a system like Klasse ... I agree that Aio is proabably the best base for SG, but I want the finish to stay the way po85rd leaves it, and unfortunately, @ least on my paint, AIO is a little harsh.



I am looking @ the paint under very harsh lighting (2) 500w halogens, because it is the only source I can find that will show the effects that sunlight will have on the paint.

[Bill D]

Maybe this (http://www.duragloss.com/product.asp?pid=275) will do. :nixweiss

[imported_truzoom]

I`d blame it on Ford clearcoat..notoriously soft stuff.

[imported_rfinkle2]

Thanks for the link Bill D... going to try duragloss pre-polish bonding agent with blackfire.



And to truzoom for mentioning the soft characteristic of Ford`s clear-coat.

[Accumulator]

This one has me scratching my head. The abrasivenss of a product is a function of the composition, shape, and size of the abrasives it contains. That`s why many products that "contain abrasives" are *functionally nonabrasive* on automotive paint.



rfinkle2- The abrasives in AIO are supposedly mild, smooth, and small so I`m :confused: why they`d do damage compared to something made to abrade ceramic paint. But I`m not about to tell somebody that they don`t see what they see. Maybe it`s a bad bottle of AIO or maybe it`s just, well, who knows and why care when you see what you see?



When I get the S8 just the way I want it, I don`t use anything else that could mess up the finish; I just apply UPP. No need for a "primer" product, I just apply it after I finish my polishing, usually with 1Z Pro MP. UPP might be the answer as it`ll work just fine after the polishing with no need for something special for it to bond to. Or maybe Zaino.



EDIT: Just saw the last few posts- I`ve applied BF without any base product too.

[imported_rfinkle2]

agreed all...i have some upp and zaino for that matter. I just like to experiment, and guess I needed a place to vent my frustration.



I do sometimes get some bug guts, rain spots etc. no matter what lsp i use, and was wondering what "cleaner" would remove them w/out abrading the paint, i.e. with a chemical.



I think that soon, I`m going to forget about lsp experimentation on the black portion (the largest portion) of my truck, and use Zaino.



I`ll probably struggle w/ my wax habit and use / experiment with my silver / grey rocker panels and rear bumper.



thanks all for the replies.



If iso/5050 doesn`t strip wax completely, what it hurt the paint if no or less dilution of the alcoholis used?

[Bill D]

I`ve used straight 70% with no issues but the 50/50 dosn`t let me down. Don`t use it in direct sunlight or right under those 1000 watt halogens, will flash too quickly. If you are curious to know if everything is off the paint, do the alcohol wipe down, wash your hand thoroughly or use a little of the alcohol on your fingers and dry them. I then carefully run my fingers against the finish. If I feel resistance/friction, I`m satisfied the paint is "naked".

[imported_rfinkle2]

thank you very much guys...bill d - i noticed the link in your posts to your product collection. I`ll have to take a picture of mine and post it. I think I may have you beat! lol

:grinno:

[Bill D]

He he, that`s an old pic. It`s just going to be too much effort to set up another, updated photo shoot. :o :D