Help me make sure I don`t hate myslef on Monday

[noahabel]

Hello, gentleman, it`s time for me to ask for a little help. I`m going to take my detailing to (hopefully) the next level this weekend and try to really perfect some basic paint damage on my 98 Arctic Silver M3/4. I`ve done a couple details with my PC 7424, one on a pretty old and abused red pearl 300ZX and another on my girlfriend`s abused 2002 Audi A4. I can`t really say that I was happy with the results either time. The Z was left with a lot of scratches and I never really got the pearl to pop. The A4 was pretty much untreated the last 3 years (my gf has gotten an earful for this already) and much of the paint was still covered in water spots and some very rough areas. My old process-



PC Orbital and LC 6" pads - wool,yellow and white.

-Dawn wash x2

-Zaino clay

-Zaino Wash

-Menzerna IP via wool & yellow pads - speed 6 for much of it - spray with 50/50 IPA/water solution

-Menzera FPII via white pad - lower speeds - wipe with MF only

-Zaino Z2 (now pro) x3



Now, admitted, the Z was in pretty bad shape and no orbital could solve most of the problems - but it looked good for a 12 year old car. The A4 is not up to my standards. So now I`ve picked up an Edge2000 8" pad set and some SSR3 in preparation for my Bimmer detail this weekend. The paint has some usual swirls, slight holograming and a couple scratches and some blemishes which may be clear coat overspray.



The plan:

-Remove body trim, mask all plastic (duh)

-Dawn x2

-Zaino Clay

-Wash (Zaino wash?)

-Start with Edge Green and IP - step up to Edge Yellow or Black if needed. Wipe with IPA/Water and MF

-Edge Blue (or White?) and FPII - wipe with MF (or IPA too?)

-**Wash???**

-Z-16 before and in between 3 layers of Z5

-Z-16 before and in between 3 layers of Z2-Pro (day 2)

-Maybe Megs #16 as a topper



So the plan isn`t that different, unless you`d advise I pick up a cheap rotary, maybe the Vector Waxxpro (Pep Boys) or the Chicago Electric (Harbor Freight). I was thinking I`d need a circular in order to address the truly tough spots. This is also why I picked up the SSR3 - just in case I needed more cut.



My main concerns are:



-Do I really need a rotary to address some common swirls, and do I need it for some more defined defects like the scratches and blemishes? Can an Orbital, some more abbrasive pads and SSR3 provide me with enough cut to address my needs?

-Should I wash the car after compunding/polishing or is an MF wipedown good enough?

-Is there anything I can do to better prep the paint in between the FPII and the Zaino? No glaze I have heard of seems to allow the Zaino to bond.

-Will #16 do anything to enhance the shine/depth on a Zainoed silver car?

-If I have to clean the pads in the middle of a step, can they be used when damp?

-Can Zaino be applied by machine?



Sorry the long post, I`m just nervous about having everything I need before I get cracking on this in the morning.



I will post again when I retackle the A4, which I`m certain needs a rotary and some SSR3 to smooth out some fairly rough paint.



Thanks, guys!

[chevyguy28]

They look better from the side.

[Black240SX]

A few comments:



I don`t see the benefit to washing with Dawn. Car wash shampoo should get all the loose dirt off, and the IP will remove any wax or sealant.



I don`t see any need to use isopropyl alcohol. FP2 doesn`t leave any oil behind.



For the FP2, I would use a regular polishing pad (green).

[noahabel]

Thanks for the ideas. But can`t clay remove inclusions and embedded debris, more so than a polish can abbrade them away? I always thought clay was good prep for a compound/polish regimen.



As for the IPA, is there no benefit to completely removing any IP residue before moving on to FPII? Doesn`t it also help clean the area being compounded to determine your progress?



I won`t bother with IPA after the FPII step, but should I wash instead, as maybe a good prep for the Z5?



As for the pads, would you guys suggest I start using IP with the Edge Yellow and save the Green for the polish of FPII?



Anyone have any thoughts on my need for a rotary?



TIA.

[noahabel]

Anyone, anyone, Bueller?

[Black240SX]

Clay is good and should be used.



The IP residue should wipe off without much trouble. No need to use alcohol.

[Accumulator]

noahabel- Disclaimer: I haven`t used IP, Zaino, or the Edge pads.



You might find that the PC bogs down too readily with the large pads. Only way I can do much of any correction on b/c paint is to use *smaller* pads, usually 4". Dunno about the Bimmer, but IMO you *will* need a rotary to get the Audi in good shape.



I dunno about a double Dawn wash, I`d just wash it once and I haven`t found Dawn to be all that special.



I would clay it. I wouldn`t plan on rewashing unless I somehow messed up and left a bunch of clay residue.



I`d just wipe off all the IP residue carefully, maybe using a QD, before using the FPII. Don`t see any need for the alcohol mix.



If you have to clean the pads you can try first blotting them with a towel and then *carefully* spinning them dry (or at least "drier"). Watch that the pad doesn`t fly off the PC and land in something nasty. I only spin them in a large plastic tub- they *will* sometimes fly off. But yeah, you can wash them out, dry them as best you can, and keep going.

[noahabel]

So after attacking the car today, I ran into some hiccups:



1. I got the Vector Rotary from PepBoys ($49.99 on sale) and used a yellow Edge pad (2nd most aggressive) with IP and got almost nowhere with the considerable scratches I hadn`t really seen until today. So I went to the SSR3 and black pad (most aggressive) and after some time, got to "perfecting" my appllication, going slow and steady at ~1200RPM until the SSR3 broke down enough to do some correction.



2. After the SSR3 I still had a number of areas (mostly horizontal surfaces) with some noticable faint scratches, but the swirling and hologramming was gone. I went back over the entire car with a yellow pad and IP which seemed to help some.



3. I ran out of time before getting to the polish/wax steps but not before I....



Gouged a nice 8" line of paint off my rear bumper with the edge of my yellow Edge2000 pad!!! I lost concentration for a few seconds, and left the edge working on the bumper while I buffed the side panel right above it. Man do I feel retarded. I`m going to give it a crack at repainting myself - using wetsanding. I tried Langka before and was not happy.



Since I still have to polish, should I try the FPII with my rotary or DA? Would Zaino Z-PC Fusion offer me any more of a corrective scratch repair than I managed to get with SSR3 and and a very aggressive pad, and is it any better than FPII? Will the polish step, done properly, help eliminate the few remaining scratches that compounding couldn`t get? Does Z5 actually do any real scratch filling? Am I dreaming?



All in all I`m happy with the state of my 8 year old paint, it had a lot of shine left in the clear coat after I clayed despite the unsightly scratching. I just hope I can manage not to screw up any more with that rotary.



And I`m going to wash after I polish, there is just too much splatter on the glass to leave to Stoners IG.



Thanks for the advice, fellas.