my concern about rotary splatter. SUPER ANNOYED

[PaulTso]

heres the deal, i love my rotary but i ALWAYS get splatter. and its jsut not a little bit, its ALOT. Anyway i polished the entire exterior with 2.5 and powder crap went every where. I didnt bother wiping it off after each panel, so basically aftfer i was done...1.5 hours later the powder and splatter were jsut stuck on my panels. After wiping with a mf nothing came off unless i wiped with alot of pressure. BUT this induced more swirls. I then washed which took care of some of the splatter, but i resorted to re claying the entire car. I mean...what can i do about this?



ANother problem i have is splatter getting in between the crack where the window trim and window meet. Its impossible for me to remove any splatter that gets in there. I`ll try use 1 inch tape next time so i tape over the crack...



Based on my observations i splatter the most in the beginning. ONce my pad is prepped with product i get significantly less. But for 2.5 i still get alot of powdering.



ANd i dont think ive figured out how to properly use Optimum compound. I have a feeling im using way too much even tho im using very little already. Optimum splatters like all hell for me when i use it.



Thanks for the input guys

Paul

[ScubaStevo]

You could wipe each panel after buffing? That may do the trick..

[silverline]

I haven`t had any problems with splatter with the Optimum Polish. You might try changing a couple of things. First, try using even less product with just a small bead around the inside of the pad ( about a 3-4 inch circle around the center of the pad. I not sure how fast you have the rotary set, but try it at about 1100-1200 rpm and see if that helps. You still should be able to build up enough heat even at these settings to break down the product properly. Also break the car down into small sections, spread the product onto the section your working with the pad before starting the buffer, work the product into the paint until it`s nearly invisible, then wipe the area clean with a mf. Repeat if necessary, and after the entire vehicle has been polished follow it up with a good paint sealant applied with an orbital buffer. Good luck and I hope this helps.

[PaulTso]

i usually keep the buffer off, spread it around the area im going to work it in and then jsut put the rotary to 1750rpms and work it in from there. My polish slings like u wouldnt believe. I`ll work on a vertical drivers side panel, and it will sling on the roof and over to the passenger side panels. Its just such a hassle to wipe down the entire car after polishing half a panel.

[scottabir]

I have been using a quater sized drop and placing the pad on top of it and then turning the machine on. It has WAY less splatter that putting a ring around the pad or picking up a line (which works sometimes for me I still have to find the sweet spot more consitantly). As for the dusting SSR line dusts like that. You may want to stop just when you see it start to dust and wipe off the panel. I also will use a QD to help reduce the amount of scrubbing needed to get the polish splatter off. This way even dried on polish will come off with ease (SSR line at least).

[X-Trail]

Apply some compound or polish of your choice on a small yellow applicator pad and apply on the body. I guarantee there will not be any splatter. Dont apply the compound or polish with your buffing pad.

[Anthony O.]

Hey, SLING happens! :spit:



To reduce sling place a drop of product on the panel you wish to buff, as already noted. Also avoid cranking out the full 1750 rpm`s from the get go but instead "feather" the trigger (quick bursts on the trigger) and then increase the speed.



I personally don`t care for spreading the product around the area to be buffed as this can lead to dusting problems as the product will begin to dry out quickly.



Anthony

[PaulTso]

great advice guys. THANKS!

[DaGonz]

Buffing sling usually occurs when there is too much product on the finish., or the pad is overloaded.



Keeping the pad flat on the surface also helps to reduce the "slingage".

[silverline]

You really don`t need the setting at 1750 rpm to break down the Optimum Polish. Even the directions state to keep it under 1400 rpm. Obviously the faster you have the buffer set, the more sling that is likely to occur. I personally use the OP at about 1200 rpm with either a yellow or green Edge Pad and the results are great. Scratches, swirls, most everything comes out on the first application. And as mentioned, if there is still imperfections left behind just repeat the process on that panel. Good luck.



Matt

[Arved]

Shoot me for saying it, but in my experience, an orbital slings a lot less than a rotary. Either upgrade to a PC, or "downgrade" to something like the Turtle Wax® model 65000TW 6 inch Waxer Polisher (http://www.acehardware.com/sm-turtle-wax-waxer-polisher--pi-1760582.html).



Don`t laugh. No variable speeds, and you have to use bonnets instead of pads, but otherwise, it`s really a niffty little polisher. At less than 1/5 the cost of a PC, at least it`s a good introduction to an orbital.

[PaulTso]

will all due respect, i will never us a turtle waxer thingy ma bobber. i started on a PC and am now using a rotary. I will never use my PC to start with, but i will only use it to remove minor marring and hologramming and of course to apply LSPs

[klnyc]

I think Paul are using DeWalt xxx model....I dont know it has a speed dial like what I have on my Makita 9227. So, to keep in constant same speed he needs to play nicely with the trigger.

[Accumulator]

Sometimes I`ll cover the rest of the vehicle with towels/etc. and if I *do* see splatter I wipe it off with a plush MF damp with #34 (get it off before it dries). Do the panels in the "right" sequence so you don`t risk inducing new marring on panels you`ve already done.



And yeah, use that trigger to bring it up to speed in a controlled manner.

[Asonyexec]

Don`t know if this helps but I recently went to a meguiar`s seminar @ their corp HQ and mike phillips gave a demonstration with a rotary. the very first thing he did was to tape up (using the blue masking tape) everything he didn`t want to get product on. Im talking grill, wipers, moulding, gaps between panels even those areas he said were prone to having a thin layer of paint ie the "edges" of the panels. then he used a piece of what looked to be an old bed sheet and he would tape that to the panels he didnt want to get excess sling on. Example, when he began to polish the hood he placed this sheet across the windshield, nothing fancy not like it was going in for a paint job he just tacked up the sheet with a few pieces of tape. it all made a big difference and as he said spending a little time in the beginning will save tons of time at the end.



hope this helps