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BlakCivicSI
06-29-2005, 11:25 PM
I`m in the middle of my first detail with a PC. I`ve washed and clayed, about to use the PC. I currently have DACP, 3M SMR for dark cars, S100 Paintwork cleansing lotion, Meg`s medallion premium paint cleaner, Meg`s No. 7 show car glaze, and for wax S100 paste. My question is what products out of these, or if there is something else to throw in the lineup to improve it, should I use in what order for a lightly oxidized, medium severity swirl marks, and some scratches. My plan was just wash, clay, DACP with PC/orange pad on 3-4?, maybe No. 7 by hand or by PC if that works good, then top it with S100 paste. Any suggestions to the lineup/procedure would be greatly appreciated. Also I have MEg`s Final Inspection, between what steps is this good to use. Thanks again, Will

audipower
06-30-2005, 01:14 AM
Onloy use an abrasive polish only when have to. Always use less abrasive first then work up. then work back down to smooth clear coat to improve shine. Just like sanding wood. I always set the PC to 5 when using polish or paint cleaners. waxes or sealents 4.

First use clay, paint cleaner, polish, then wax.

Black240SX
06-30-2005, 02:02 AM
Try the Medallion paint cleaner first, on a polishing pad. If that doesn`t do the job, try DACP on a polishing pad. Only move up to a cutting pad as a last resort.



I wouldn`t bother with the 3M SMR. I tried it once with a PC and had no luck. Apparently it works better with a rotary polisher.

White95Max
06-30-2005, 02:02 AM
DACP > #7 > S100 would be fine. You could also try DACP > S100 PCL > S100.

BlakCivicSI
06-30-2005, 10:02 AM
Thanks a lot for the fast replies. A little thrown off with black240sx statement of try medallion with a polishing pad first then try dacp with a cutting pad if that doesn`t work. A little confusing since others said go with the least aggresive you can use then work down, like I always thought. I think i`m gonna try the dacp, #7, S100 paste. Maybe I`ll do the whole car with DACP, then spot test the #7 and S100 PCL next to eachother to see if I can notice a difference. One other thing I was wondering was what would be a good finishing polish or product to use after the dacp to smooth out any marring that I`ve read the DACP can leave, and to really add some extra gloss and shine before waxing? Last thing, I`m using Meg`s FI as a QD. In between which steps should I not use it. Ex) Not after the #7 if I use that because it will remove the oils and fillers #7 uses? Thanks a ton for the replies guys. I`ll probly post my first time experience results later.

Lowejackson
06-30-2005, 10:36 AM
I would be tempted to buy something a little milder than DACP, #80 or SFX-2 would be ideal

White95Max
06-30-2005, 10:39 AM
A little thrown off with black240sx statement of try medallion with a polishing pad first then try dacp with a cutting pad if that doesn`t work. A little confusing since others said go with the least aggresive you can use then work down, like I always thought.





He`s saying that you should try the least aggressive method first (Medallion with a polishing pad). If that`s not aggressive enough, move up to DACP with a cutting pad. That`s more aggressive than Medallion/polishing.

After DACP you would use a lighter polish like #80 to remove the hazing from DACP/cutting.

BlakCivicSI
06-30-2005, 11:24 PM
Having some trouble with the DACP. I`m not sure if i`m using it/doing it right but the dacp is leaving me some nasty haze that I can`t completely get off. I went over it after with #80 speed glaze and most of it was still there. My procedure so far has been wash, clay, DACP with PC at about speed 4, then speed glaze on 4 as well. As far as the buffing, I put a ring of the product on the pad, then spread it on and started going over it on 4. Went over it back and forth alternating directions for a few minutes. Then wiped off the DACP with a microfiber cloth, and then sprayed some 50/50 water/alcohol and wiped that off. After this I did the same with speed glaze but I didn`t use the water/alcohol after that, and there is still a haze stuck to the paint. As well as the hazing issue it doesn`t seem like most of the swirls and imperfections are coming out, only some. My questions are, how much product should you use, how long do you work the product in and how do u know when you`ve been going enough on it, and should it be hard to wipe the product off after. When I try to wipe it off by hand with the microfiber it`s kinda tough to get off, like a cheap wax would be, and it leaves some hazing that doens`t really go away after the speed glaze. If I get some sunlight tommorow that will at least give me some real light to see the paints condition while i`m working on it in the garage. Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks again. :confused:

White95Max
07-01-2005, 02:00 AM
It sounds to me like you may not be breaking down the polish enough, and the abrasives are still large enough to cause swirls when you wipe it off. It takes a long time to break down polishes on speed 6...I can`t imagine trying to do it on speed 4.

It shouldn`t be very hard to wipe off the polish. Work it until it becomes nearly transparent.

Lowejackson
07-01-2005, 02:20 AM
It seems that some people are able to go from DACP to LSP without any problems. I have not been able to do so and always needed a milder polish in between.

audipower
07-01-2005, 09:59 PM
don`t use the orange cutting pad with a combo (polish/cleaner) Use the blue pad or I thing green pad. Get some sfx-2 or autoglym paint renovator.

a.k.a. Patrick
07-01-2005, 10:55 PM
Food for thought: Maybe a better choice would have been 80 instead of 83. That would have been the next in progression!

audipower
07-01-2005, 11:27 PM
use the combo first then if that doesn`t work then go to the cutting then back down to the combo to smooth out the clear coat from the aggressive polish