How much experience with a PC justifies getting a rotary?

[Mitchubishievo]

Hey everyone,

I`m new to machine detailing and have already done two cars with polishing...both were not great results. The owners were still astounded with the details, but I was pissed with all the swirls left after going over with SSR 2.5; I figure I should`ve misted the pad more often, but at the same time, I keep thinking maybe I had and still have expectations too high for a PC. Now, I`m no Scottwax or GSRstilez, but I want my work to be close to par with theirs since I have quite an amount of customers eager for me to remove swirls and scratches. With this in mind, should I go to a rotary? I have only done a few cars with a PC, but I am beyond comfortable with it. I have spent a humongous amount already on products and whatnot this year, but I keep having thoughts of going for a real polishing tool. Should I? I figure I *could* get a Chicago model, but the Makita 9227 calls to me...and having seen the results with it only makes it the more wanted candidate. What kind of dough would I be looking to toss at one of these, including a bp and the necessary pads? Thanks in advance.

[scottabir]

with backing plate around $200 if you shop around. I personally think maybe you should try to get a little more experience before jumping to a rotary if you are scared about using it.

Go to a body shop and get a junk hood. practice, practice, practice on it. gain some confidence with the rotary if you decide to get one. Please just dont grab the rotary and a customers car and go to town on it, you are asking for trouble then. A good intermediate polisher would be the cyclo, but it has a pretty hefty proce tag on it around $300 with some pads and velcro holders.



I sent you a PM too...

[imported_themightytimmah]

I`d goto a cyclo first, thats what I did and it served me well. That way, once you get a rotary, if you can`t seem to get the holograms out, you can use the cyclo to do so. Also, if you`re working professionally, spring for the 9227. It`s a LOT quieter and smoother than the cheapies, its a great machine to work with. Its built to last too, mine`s seen borderline abuse for the last coupla weeks, and not so much as a scratch.

[C. Charles Hahn]

I agree with the other posts -- you might want to get a bit more experience before making that leap. I`ve been using a PC for almost 5 years now, and I`m still nervous about a rotary just because of the few horror stories I`ve heard.



I`m JUST now making the leap to rotary as I`ve been seeing some continually worsening cases lately where swirls and scratches are concerned. However I think with the buffer technique I`ve perfected in my PC usage I should be alright and pick it right up, but at the same time there will ALWAYS be that fear in the back of my mind.



I suppose that`s a good thing though, since it will force me to slow down and pay closer attention to what I`m doing.

[imported_themightytimmah]

IMHO, if you stick with foam pads, burning the paint is not a huge issue. What is, however, is burning the trim. I`ve never cut through clear, or anything close (even with a wool pad and Powergloss), but ive taken the coating right off of plastic chrome (thanks a lot CHRYSLER) in a heartbeat. You might want to keep a heat gun handy :) (think of it as an excuse to debadge).

[wannafbody]

I never used a PC and started with some foam pads and a rotary-you don`t really have to worry about damaging paint if you use enough polish and keep the rotary moving

[Tanat198]

Welp, i started detailing with 9227 and got holograms all over. So i decided to purchase PC and never looked back. Nowadays, i polish with rotary first and finish it with pc occasionally if the holograms aren`t there. But rotary always does a better job.

[Mitchubishievo]

I forgot to mention one of my coworkers used to work at a detail shop and has a 9227 for me to borrow here and there...:D. I have a REALLY bad car coming this weekend and I dunno if I can do too much with the PC, so maybe he`ll let me use his rotary for a little. Thanks for all the helpful tips everyone.

[mgm2003]

First I`d take a look at your PC process.



Use a DRY pad with the Poorboys SSR line, and work the product in until it almost disappears. I start with a white polishing pad, and step up to a green light cut or orange pad if I don`t notice an improvement. Many times you can use SSR2.5 as a stand alone. If you have minor marring left over, use SSR1 and a white polish or finish pad for clean up. If you are having problems, give Steve a call at Poorboys. He`s more than happy to help, and knows his products best.



The menzerna line (and others) will work better with mist and/or a spun dry pad that is slightly damp.



Please don`t take offence to my post, b/c I`m not trying to jab at you. I think if you improve your process you`ll be very happy with the PC. I would recommend learning on the PC before stepping up to a rotary.



If I had to pick `the best` line of polishes based on `ease of use`, and `results`, it would be in this order.



1) Menzerna

2) Poorboys

3) Optimum



After you get some seat time, and a feel for pad/product combo`s, I think that Optimum polish is the most versatile and cost effective of the group listed above.

[Mitchubishievo]

I was polishing with a dry pad and it seemed like it improved nothing...

[C. Charles Hahn]

I was polishing with a dry pad and it seemed like it improved nothing...



What pad/product, and what speed?