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Mtt83
06-21-2005, 09:59 AM
I just bought my car about a month ago and have since been reading these forums, but I still have a few unanswered questions. It`s a new silver 2005 elantra gt so I`d assume the paint is in very good condition. (looks that way anyway) So far I have planned on getting and using the klasse aio/sg combo since i`m new to things and they appear to be a simple choice that works well together. My main question is how long until I need to buy and apply these since the car is brand new? (I`m also open to other product suggestions)



I could also use some suggestion on vinyl, rubber, and leather protectants if anyone has any. (Didn`t want to make another thread for a simple question.)

Accumulator
06-21-2005, 10:04 AM
Mtt83- Welcome to Autopia!



Unless your car had some post-factory paintwork done (unlikely, I should think), you can go ahead and use wax/sealants on it right away. Factory paint is different from the stuff bodyshops use, and it`s baked at very high temperatures.



Everybody has their faves when it comes to the vinyl/rubber/leather stuff. For exterior black trim, I use use the Klasse twins same as on the paint. For interior stuff, decide what look you want (shiny, matte, etc.) and see what you can get locally. Most products of this type are OK these days.

Gonzo
06-21-2005, 10:47 AM
As soon as it gets into your driveway!

BigAl3
06-21-2005, 10:52 AM
don`t forget to clay, prior to applying the sealant/wax...

Mtt83
06-21-2005, 07:22 PM
don`t forget to clay, prior to applying the sealant/wax...

So I should clay already even though the car is brand new?

Lowejackson
06-22-2005, 04:14 AM
So I should clay already even though the car is brand new?



Much depends on how and where the car was stored. Unless the paint feels very smooth I would lightly clay the entire car.

imported_themightytimmah
06-22-2005, 07:20 AM
Yes, claying is important on a new car, because it usually gets shipped by rail at somepoint. Every time a train stops, it kicks up a ton of small metal filings, which embed themselves into the paint. This is why dealerships usually will ABC decon new cars they get, it burns out the metal. You can do pretty much the same thing with a claybar and a little elbow grease, however.

Aequitas
06-22-2005, 07:47 AM
i would apply the klasse products right away, also like others have said I think it`s a good idea to clay, even thught it`s brand new. For protectants I usually use 303 Aerospace protectant on vinyl and rubber and I use the zaino line for leather. Head down to autozone or a local auto store of the like and see what they have, they usually carry a lot of protectants that work well.

Accumulator
06-22-2005, 09:20 AM
Yes, claying is important on a new car, because it usually gets shipped by rail at somepoint. Every time a train stops, it kicks up a ton of small metal filings, which embed themselves into the paint. This is why dealerships usually will ABC decon new cars they get, it burns out the metal. You can do pretty much the same thing with a claybar and a little elbow grease, however.



Heh heh, well, the dealerships *oughta* use a decontamination system, but not many that I`ve known actually do ;)



themightytimmah is absolutely right about the need to clay/decontaminate a new car.



If you`re *not* gonna use such a system, at least the claying is better than nothing. Left embedded, ferrous contamination will cause "rust blooms" and they look pretty awful on silver (gee, ask how I know :o ).

Bill D
06-22-2005, 09:36 AM
Heh heh, well, the dealerships *oughta* use a decontamination system, but not many that I`ve known actually do ;)



themightytimmah is absolutely right about the need to clay/decontaminate a new car.



If you`re *not* gonna use such a system, at least the claying is better than nothing. Left embedded, ferrous contamination will cause "rust blooms" and they look pretty awful on silver (gee, ask how I know :o ).





So true!



Even at high end dealers where I`ve engaged in detailing conversations with techs, when I brought up the decontamination systems they looked at me like I was speaking Greek! :eek:

vapore0n
06-22-2005, 12:23 PM
when I got my car, first thing I did was clay. They "detail" the car before giving it to you, but in reality is just a wash after removing the tapes.



My car is white and had a realy bad case of rail rust.

I think I only did the front because I was getting the clear bra installed the next morning. Good thing I did too cause those guys didnt clean the paint as they said they would. They didnt even know what was a clay bar.

White95Max
06-22-2005, 03:59 PM
Clay your car right away. You can detail it as soon as you like. Only after a repaint do you need to wait...usually 30 days or more.

Mtt83
06-22-2005, 07:19 PM
Thanks for all of the replies so far. I`ll be sure to pick up a clay bar and some lube to use before applying the aio/sg combo. I think I`ll try to pick up a leather cleaner also. For some reason a portion of the leather on my driver seat seems a slightly darker color than the rest of the seat now.

imported_rachelanne16
06-23-2005, 09:55 AM
Everybody has their faves when it comes to the vinyl/rubber/leather stuff. For exterior black trim, I use the Klasse twins same as on the paint ...

I would like to go to all-SG exterior.



I am currently using Valueguard Trim & Molding Renewer on my trim. If I go over it with AIO first, I suppose that would prepare even recently dressed trim for SG?



If you had a customer who wanted SG-dressed trim, but the trim was a little old and "dried-out" looking, what would you use to restore the trim, prior to AIO/SG?



Thanks for your time, your posts are always very helpful. :bow

Accumulator
06-23-2005, 10:17 AM
hallo gallo- Well, I might not be all that helpful this time :o



I think the AIO will clean the ValueGuard dressing off just fine.



When it comes to the weathered trim on customers` cars I`m not sure what to tell you. I`ve only tried the Klasse twins on trim that was in OK condition. If the AIO won`t prep it well enough you might have to stick with conventional treatments. Example- here`s one area where the lower trim my wife`s A8 is getting a bit weathered for the Klasse approach, and I fear I`ll have to use regular dressing-type approaches on it soon...the Klasse approach works best on trim that is a) not subject to abrasion (the A8 trim is down low and gets abraded) and b) treated with KSG regularly from new so it never deteriorates much.