7424 vs. Volvo Clearcoat - Volvo wins? (semi long)

[cbickell]

Hi all, new here to the board and "detailing" in general - I`ve washed plenty of cars over the years, but this detailing thing....wow! It`s just the thing to soothe an obsessive mind....glad I`m not alone!



I just picked up a 97 Volvo wagon. Being a "boring" family car, the paint and interior have been largely ignored by the previous owners - not abused, just ignored. Along with some fair sized dings and chips, It has a ton of light to medium scratches from going through cheap auto-washes, scratches on the roof from sliding stuff across it, and worst of all, in places, the hood shows what looks like scratches from a random orbit sander...possibly a botched respray or detailing?



Deciding to tackle this myself, I bought a PC 7424 from AutoGeek, along with the pad kit - Wolfgang Concourse (1 orange, 2 white , and 1 black). I also picked up some 3M PI Compound, Swirl remover, and Liquid Wax.



Well, I went to work one night, slinging product all over the car and myself, and when I was done, I swear I heard the paint chuckling at me - it was barely any different! I was completely dejected.

Reading these forums, I`ve since learned that I needed to dial up the speed on the PC (I never got above 3!), and that people have had issues with the 3M products. I tried again the other night with the "consumer level" 3-step stuff from Megs. With the PC speed up around 5 there was definite improvement, but it`s still not knocking things down like I`d imagined as the scratches are still there.

Please help! Is it the pads? The products? Volvo`s clearcoat? Total lack of skill? Do I need to get heavy handed and get a wool leveling pad? A rotary? (scary)

None of these scratches go through the clearcoat in fact, most barely catch a nail. I don`t want to go too heavy on the abrasives, but I can`t keep throwing good money after bad in a blind effort to find something that works. Any advice is greatly appreciated - I`ve gotta be able to justify this loony purchase to the wife :)

[zainoshine]

Most don`t have any experience with the Wolfgang Pads...but just by their colors it may sound like they are manufactured by Lake Country...



You definitely need to crank it up to at least 5, but probably more like 6 to really work those products in. It will take a little bit of experimenting before you get it right, of course, but add enough pressure by pushing down on top of the PC, until it bogs down, and then back off until it starts spinning at normal level again and that is the amount of pressure needed (I believe Scottwax describes it this way).



I wouldn`t go rotary or wool pad yet, wait until you get much more experience with the PC. It`s not exactly as easy as some people put it, and it takes a long time.



Good Luck!

[daves745t]

I just did my first detail this weekend with my PC and let me tell you there is a world of difference when you dial up the speed. The other this is that it may take many passes to get rid of the swirls, etc. Don`t expect the world in just a few minutes. One side of my car was just filled with light scratches, I think the previous owner had bushes on that side of the driveway that he constantly brushed up against. Anyway, I must have spent an hour just on one door alone. It wasn`t easy, but the result was worth it. For the record I was using an Orange LC pad with Menzerna IP and dialed the PC up to about 5.5-6. That was followed by Final Polish II, Finishing Touch Glaze and P21 wax.



The other thing is that I`ve owned several Volvos from the 80s 240 and 740 to the 90s 850 and now a 98 V70R. I`ve got to say that in my opinion the Volvo paint for the 90s models absolutely SUCKS!. Although I`ve never gone at it with a PC, I`ve never been happy with the results after going at it for umpteen hours. One thing you might consider is having it professionally done this once and then you can maintain it - so you`re starting out at a much higher level. Good luck.



-Dave

[Richt]

I recently detailed my best mates, 850 T5R (1995-1996) and 2 passes off Megs Speed Glaze and a pass of AG SRP sorted the car fantastically. I hit the scratches with Speed Glaze and a cutting pad ( 4 inch) by PC this weekend gone and he is chuffed with results, I really didnt find the clear hard?

[Accumulator]

Using a 4" cutting pad can make all the difference. And yeah, I always use 6 for this type of work. Nothing wrong with the PI-II/III RC`s, but you might want to consider Hi-Temp`s Medium Cut or 1Z`s Ultra/Extra for the worst of it.

[cbickell]

I knew I could count on you guys! Thanks to everyone - While it`s not perfect, I`m getting much better luck with the Mequires 3 step "for dummies" cleaner, polish, wax method. Here`s what I`m doing now - feel free to critique...

I apply the paint cleaner in an "x" to a 6" orange pad (cutting I assume), dab it on/smear it around with the PC off, start it up at about 2 or 3 and establish my work area (2-3 square ft). Once that`s done (about 30 sec) I wind the PC up to 5 and work the stuff in for about 2-5 minutes. By this time the product is fairly thin and transparent, but still "wet". Any longer and it starts to buff off in places. I follow this same procedure for the "step 2" polish with the exception of a new white pad and that the polish won`t work nearly as long before it starts to buff out. Step 3 wax is applyed by hand -

How does that sound? Am I using too little or too much product? Working it long enough? Too long? How fast should I be moving the PC across the surface? I usually take about 3-4 sec. It takes me about 1.5 to 2 hrs to apply one "step" to one side of the car this way, but i`m hoping my speed will pick up once the paint is in better shape and it`s just routine maintenance. I only get about 2 hrs per night to work on it, so it`s been in the garage for nearly a week and a half!



I`ll definitely check out the products that were mentioned. I`ve been eyeing the Menzerna anyway for the spot repairs. I`m a little lost since the decoder link isn`t working yet - what`s AG SRP? AutoGlym Scratch repair? just a guess...



Thanks again everyone

[Accumulator]

Orange pads are generally "light cutting", but the products you`re using don`t "cut" anyhow. Move the PC slowly. Sounds like you`re doing it OK but I`d use an abrasive polish instead of the Meg`s Step 2 stuff. Something like the #80. SRP= Autoglym`s Super Resin Polish.

[jetskie]

I knew I could count on you guys! Thanks to everyone - While it`s not perfect, I`m getting much better luck with the Mequires 3 step "for dummies" cleaner, polish, wax method. Here`s what I`m doing now - feel free to critique...

I apply the paint cleaner in an "x" to a 6" orange pad (cutting I assume), dab it on/smear it around with the PC off, start it up at about 2 or 3 and establish my work area (2-3 square ft). Once that`s done (about 30 sec) I wind the PC up to 5 and work the stuff in for about 2-5 minutes. By this time the product is fairly thin and transparent, but still "wet". Any longer and it starts to buff off in places. I follow this same procedure for the "step 2" polish with the exception of a new white pad and that the polish won`t work nearly as long before it starts to buff out. Step 3 wax is applyed by hand -

How does that sound? Am I using too little or too much product? Working it long enough? Too long? How fast should I be moving the PC across the surface? I usually take about 3-4 sec. It takes me about 1.5 to 2 hrs to apply one "step" to one side of the car this way, but i`m hoping my speed will pick up once the paint is in better shape and it`s just routine maintenance. I only get about 2 hrs per night to work on it, so it`s been in the garage for nearly a week and a half!



I`ll definitely check out the products that were mentioned. I`ve been eyeing the Menzerna anyway for the spot repairs. I`m a little lost since the decoder link isn`t working yet - what`s AG SRP? AutoGlym Scratch repair? just a guess...



Thanks again everyone

The stuff you have in stock is fine, but you need to improve on your technique. First off the 3M RC is fine is that you need to know how to work with it and its for swril removal. Work in small area 2 X2 mist the pad with water or QD before you put on your X mark of product. Spread the product first before you turn on the machine and go over the are quickly on speed 3 to spread the product. Then work in the product with a slow arm speed and the PC at speed 5. Work the product in until its transparent or greassy looking and then wipe it off. Do the same with SMR to remove any compound haze and you`ll be surprised at your results. The choice of wax you have are fine, but they will not last that long. As far as Meguiars step 2 its a polish that does not need to be worked in. A good spread with the PC on speed 3-4 is fine then wipe it off. Its more a gloss enhancer/ glaze and not much of a cleaning/ polishing product. SRP is Super Resin Polish and its more of a one step wax similar to Meguiars Color X or AIO. Its not as strong of a clean though. If you want some longer lasting wax I suggest look into the Wolfgang, UPP, SG, stuff.