Frustrated first time PC user!

[goceltics34]

I just had the courage to take my new PC to a portion of my Jeep. I prepped the paint with a wash, clay, then used the orange light cutting pad from LC and some SSR 2.5. The paint came out pretty good but after looking at it in direct sunlight, I can still see some light swirls and scratches. I started the PC on #3, then after several seconds went to 4 then 5. I worked the section back and forth, then side to side until the product began to disappear. I applied a little pressure but not too much.



I want to know what am I doing wrong? Do I need to go over the section again or get more agressive?



Here are a couple of pictures showing the light swirls that still exist.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y77/dveloz143/IMG_5279.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y77/dveloz143/IMG_5289.jpg



Please help! :nixweiss

[togwt]

Machine Polish / Foam Pad Combinations:

Always start with the least abrasive combination, i.e. a machine polish comparative abrasion scale CAS =3 and the least aggressive (polishing) foam pad. If that combination doesn`t remove the imperfections, using the same machine polish CAS = 3and change to a more aggressive (cutting) foam pad. If the surface imperfections remain, then step-up the abrasive to a polish CAS = 4 and use the least aggressive (polishing) pad.



The speed at which the foam pad travels across a paint surface is also important, too fast or slow wonâ€â„¢t allow the micro-abrasive to â€Ëœbeak downâ€â„¢, Machine linier speed (MLS) buffer or rotary machine movement shown as inches per second



It is preferable to polish 2-3 times to restore the paint film surface than to use an unnecessarily abrasive machine polish / foam pad combination.



The abrading ability of any polish can be changed by their application method (i.e. machine or hand application, speed and / or pressure used, using it wet or dry and / or type of foam composition (different foam compositions and / or densities have a differing abrading ability)



Poorboyâ€â„¢s WorldCAS

Poorboyâ€â„¢s SSR3 7/10

Poorboyâ€â„¢s SSR 2.5 6/10

Poorboyâ€â„¢s SSR2 5/10

Poorboyâ€â„¢s SSR1 3/10



JonM

[goceltics34]

Should I try to go to SSR 3 or maybe just work the 2.5 in a little longer? How about going to a yellow heavier cutting pad with 2.5?

[jetskie]

Try the 2.5 and move the PC slower across the panel at speed 5.

[goceltics34]

Should I expect to get all of these small swirls and scratches out with the PC or should I expect a few to remain? What should I expect from the PC?

[J.J.]

You`re doing a pretty good job. The swirls are almost gone. I would suggest going over the area one more time using the same combination. It is not uncommon to do 2-3 passes to accomplish the desired results.



JJ

[teamvegas]

you should be able to remove those swirls. I would reccomend spreading the product on speed 4 at a pace of 2-3 inces per second, then speed the PC up to 6 and at a pace of 1 inch per second. Only work in a 2x2 section you should notice some resutls.

[goceltics34]

Question for you.....



I don`t know if this car has a clear coat or not. Would that matter? If it didn`t would it be harder to get the scratches out because they are within the paint or is it the same as getting them out with a clear coat paint?



How do I find out if the car has a clear coat?

[PerfectionDetailing]

Why not use the same pad with SSR1. I recently had a similar problem, where 1Z PP was leaving some micro marring on the paint and I used some scratch-X to remove.

[goceltics34]

Originally posted by Lapis 986

Why not use the same pad with SSR1. I recently had a similar problem, where 1Z PP was leaving some micro marring on the paint and I used some scratch-X to remove.



I think I will try that. At this point, I will try anything that you fellow autopians recommend as I am a newbie with the PC. The section of paint that I worked on looks way better than before but I know many of you have had great success eliminating most if not all swirls. I want to get to that level.

[thinksnow]

Check your pad after polishing. If it`s red, you have single stage paint (no clear coat). More than likely (99% positive), that Jeep`s paint is clearcoated.



It looks like you got that major scratch out. I`m assuming you were concentrating on that one section more than the section to the right of the scratch (spiderwebbing).



I`ve found it most satisfying to concentrate on small sections at one time, and using the speed of the PC to do the work rather than applying pressure. I`m not familiar with 2.5, but seeing the job it`s done on other paints, you should be able to remove almost all of the micromarring on that paint (from what I can tell from the picture). Keep at it, and stay within a 1x1 or 2x2 section at a time. It sounds more time-consuming, but I find it is actually faster and definitely more effective.



Someone with more 2.5 experience can tell you about flashing etc...



I followed



this tutorial (http://autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=24209&highlight=menzerna+tutorial) when starting--using several different kinds of polishes, and Dr. Jones` lessons can be applied to the polishes I used.



Good luck:up

[goceltics34]

No red paint on the pad. Maybe it is clear coated after all.



Thank you very much for your help. I will stick with it and see if I can get rid of all of the swirls. I have the time, just need to test my patience a little bit.

[imported_kuba]

one thing i think you should be is more realisitic and don`t expect too much, that way you don`t set yourself for disappointment.

besides a lot of the guys that post their pics on here are damn good and spend hours, ie-gonzo - 20hrs on that one car, think it was the pick-up. search for it.

be realisitic and patient.

i know i will be once i get my pc :xyxthumbs

[goceltics34]

Maybe your right. I am expecting results like some of the pros who contribute to this forum. I have to remember that I "am" a rookie when it comes to detailing and especially PC use.

[spotpad]

Originally posted by TOGWT

Machine Polish / Foam Pad Combinations:

Always start with the least abrasive combination, i.e. a machine polish comparative abrasion scale CAS =3 and the least aggressive (polishing) foam pad. If that combination doesn`t remove the imperfections, using the same machine polish CAS = 3and change to a more aggressive (cutting) foam pad. If the surface imperfections remain, then step-up the abrasive to a polish CAS = 4 and use the least aggressive (polishing) pad.





This is very interesting. I should try this sometime.




Originally posted by TOGWT

It is preferable to polish 2-3 times to restore the paint film surface than to use an unnecessarily abrasive machine polish / foam pad combination.





This is an excellent suggestion. I`ve done this with #80 Speed Glaze to remove swirls and the swirls went away after the third pass. Well worth the extra time for the added safety of using a very mild polish. I would`ve removed way too much paint than necessary if I had stepped up to #83 DACP.



One could argue that I could`ve gone straight to #83 DACP in the first place but that would not follow the rule of using the least aggressive method first.



Of course, I was using the Makita 9227C rotary moving up from 600rpm to 1200rpm only. :D