help for the ignorant.

[jbar]

after a wash and spot claying i thought it would be a good opportunity to try out my pc. my intent was to remove spider webbing from a `95 grand prix trunk lid.



the product i used was 3m perfect-it II rubbing compound fine cut.i started out with an lc white pad, then to an lc orange pad. i had no luck in removing any of the spiderwebbing.



now would be a good spot to point out that i have read the "how to use the porter cable..." write up. i have also been reading for sometime here on the topic as well. for some reason i have not gotten a grasp of the necessary requirements.



i started by spraying the pad with a qd. then applied the product in an "x" on the pad. after a couple of applications the pad began to cake/load up. product did not spread evenly before or after the loading up, as i expected. the surface was left smooth and slick but had no effect on the spiderwebbing.



any advice, or link to a similiar thread is appreciated.



thanks, jeremy

[imported_Denzil]

I don`t really know much about the LC pads but maybe you should try PI III on a cutting pad? :nixweiss



Worst case scenario, I guess you could wetsand it if that compound doesn`t work.

[togwt]

Let me ask some questions to find a solution-

1) What speed number were you using?

(4-5.0 is recommended)

2) How big an area are you trying to cover

(2-foot x 2-foot is recommended

3) How long were you working the polish

(Work the polish until â€Ëœalmostâ€â„¢ dry or when it changes to a thin, clear liquid (its not necessary to use until it becomes a powder or is completely dissipated)



As with all car care products use very little product and keep foam pad well -lubricated (distilled water spray) remember - when in doubt, use less.

Apply Machine Polish at the rate of approximately 0.5 to 1.0-inch per second.





A few pointers-the abrading ability of any polish can be changed by their application method (i.e. machine or hand application, speed and / or pressure used, using it wet or dry and / or type of foam composition (different foam compositions and / or densities have a differing abrading ability) Machine, foam pad and product; the work is approximately distributed, 60% product, 30% foam composition and 10% pressure applied and / or speed of rotation or oscillation.



I would suggest you re-read âہ“How -to use the Porter-Cable 7424 Polisherâ€Â�, by DavidB



Porter Cable 7424 DavidB (http://store.yahoo.com/autopia/inf-pc7424.html)



I hope this helps

JonM

[Accumulator]

jbar- You were on the right track. A true cutting pad will have a little more bite than the orange, but not all *that* much.



Oh, try not to breath the PI-II dust. Silica is carcinogenic, sorta the same way that asbestos is.



Sometimes the paint is just too hard for easy correction by PC. I`ve worked clearcoats for literally *hours* with PI-II FCRC/PC/wool at speed 6 with virtually no improvement in the marring. In those cases there`s only so many options left.



Two that come to mind (in order of preference) are:



-Try the PC with a small backing plate and 4" pads. The smaller pads allow you to put more pressure on the PC without it "bogging" or "merely jiggling".



-Try a more aggressive product. But note that that will perhaps leave "micromarring" which might put you right back in the same place- with marring you can`t remove with mild approaches. If you want to try this, look at the Hi-Temp line at TOL (http://www.topoftheline.com/index.html) or perhaps 1Z Ultra/Extra. You might even try a small area with such a product *by hand*. Takes forever, but you can apply a lot of pressure by hand (force spread over only the surface area of your finger, for instance).



If those ideas doesn`t work I`d say you need to move up to a Cyclo or a rotary. Sorta expensive step to take, so maybe you`d rather live with the marring. But I`d try the smaller pads and stronger products before you give up.

[jbar]

thanks for the replys.



as for speed used: i applied product at 2. then increased to 5.



area worked: definitly no larger than 2x2.



work time: after applying product on an "x" on the pad i would stamp the product on the panel to keep from splattering. then would spread product at 2. at this point it appeared to me that i wasn`t using enough product because it didn`t spread evenly. however, after i kept working the product it would spread as "i thought it should". at that point i increased speed to 5. i stopped working before it dried. then wiped with a mf.

towards the end of my practicing, the product would cake up on the surface shortly after increasing speed to 5.



im certain i wasn`t keeping the pad well lubricated, seeing as i sprayed the pad only at the beginning. perhaps improving here will help my situation.



i certainly will reread the how to.



accumulater, thanks for the tips as well and for the product referrals. hopefully those tips will work, but it not i`ll live with the marring.



apparently i`ve underestimated the work/knowledge required to produce the results i`ve seen here.



thanks again.